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Oxford Shirts

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@capa - really depends on your size. I'm ~5"9" 140. I wear a med in BoO and sm in Gitman. The sm lands end canvas didn't fit well at all. Too big all around. Gave it to my friend who's a little bigger than I am and it fits him pretty well.

Quality is good for the $14 I paid though...

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Any oxford ideas for a more short slender type of guy. I am 5'5 105lbs

thought you were gonna buy that toj oxford

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I reaaaally want to. The smallest size they have is an XS and just looking at one of the recent posts of a 5'9 guy in one and it looked like it fit really well even if it was a tin tad big long which makes my think I might not be able to pull one off.

Dunno if their XS would fit me. Their MTM option is $40 extra which I might go for if I cant find anything else.

Might actually go for the duffle first though lol.

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I reaaaally want to. The smallest size they have is an XS and just looking at one of the recent posts of a 5'9 guy in one and it looked like it fit really well even if it was a tin tad big long which makes my think I might not be able to pull one off.

Dunno if their XS would fit me. Their MTM option is $40 extra which I might go for if I cant find anything else.

Might actually go for the duffle first though lol.

lol that's a pretty big price difference bud.

Yeah I was about to go with the MTM but my pocket didn't feel like going for the extra $40 cuz i'm so peazent =[

I think were pretty much the same height right? lol I ended up going stock which I know will be a lil long, but I'd like to get it for future sizing reference.

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I'm hella short+skinny. about 5' 7-8" 120 lbs; I ONLY fit an XS. From the posts so far it seems like I should try BoO? Any other recommendations?

I'm the same, around 5'8'' and 120 lbs and take XS. I find it really hard to style myself like I envision in my head because of it. I'm not sure what oxford would be best for me either...

haha sorry I can't really help in the recommendation department, but now we have two voices for the same cause putting a request out there

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ok, thread is headed in a dangerous direction of misinformation, so i will try to offer some additional input

anyway, here is a snap i took of my "traditional color" oxfords

blue, white, university stripe

(the fruity color oxfords are for another time)

p1050304t.jpg

p1050305g.jpg

ocbd.jpg

uniqlo : for a lot of you guys, this is a "nice fit". somewhat shorter tails than your traditional oxford. i personally hate the short collar (looks childish to me) and the flimsy cotton

thom browne: very nice cloth. nice details and everything but the fit is only good if you are very skinny, because it curves in wayyy too much at the waist. wear these untucked or tucked

band of outsiders: we all know about these. basically cut like a little boy's shirt: short collar, short tail, slim. i hate these. good if you are like 125 lbs and under 5'7" or something

gitman vintage similar style/cut to BoO. fuck these guys. regular gitman (not the slim ones) is whatever

supreme: the short collars look silly to me. wierd fit, these are for untucking

naked and famous these have a slightly higher collar. very thick. maybe too thick. if you like wear your shirts as stiff and heavy as your jeans, well here you go.

land's end/LE canvas: does this look like styleforum to you? this shit is run by sears or whatever. buy if you are a peasant. perhaps the older made in usa ones are 'better', but i have no experience with those.

j. crew short tails, short tails, shitty cloth. i can't say it enough, but FUCK j. crew

rl custom fit: the slim fit on these is flattering, but still classic. don't like the collar roll on these. the collars on unlined older BB OCBDs are far superior i think. i feel that were are almost a good length for wearing untucked, but are a little on the longer side

vintage bb, unlined collar: you can't fuck with the unlined collar. strictly for the trad-est of trad-bros. "traditional fit, aka baggy" i wear these for my true 60s take-ivy stee. long tails for tucking in, for the most part.

brooks brothers extra slim: very slim after a couple of washes/hot dryer action. good if you are very skinny yet still want a little bit of breather room. not as slim as BoO and those other guys. it looks like the care tags on the botton shirt tails are on ALL newer BB shirts (black fleece and vintage bb shirts do not have these). looks best tucked in.

black fleece: excellent quality, thick, soft supima cotton, and nice mother of pearl buttons. these are usually short and can be worn untucked

mark mcnairy: almost perfect (in my opinion). another one for dudes who are into old vintage brooks brothers shirts("very traditional"). it is essentially a slimmed down version of a traditional BB shirt if that makes any sense. long tails for tucking in. thick and comfy cotton. only complaints are not using MOP buttons. i looked up the RN number on these and it turns out that these are made by the same people who make Brooks Brothers shirts. figures, coming from mark who i've read is obsessed with vintage bb OCBDs

there are too many details and intricacies to mention and discuss regarding OCBDs. probably best reserved for a blog post or something (maybe i should finally start one)

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lMO ESF BB OBCD FTW

i have a feeling that my post just went over like 99% of sufu's heads

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Everyone's just gonna wear BoO or Gitman anyway, so who gives a fuck?

I slightly disagree w/ you about the McNairy oxfords btw. The cotton has that BB non-iron sheen which is eh... and tails built for low-rise pants rub me the wrong way. Good construction/collar/fit though.

What's good w/ unlined collars? School us.

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Vamp what are options for fitted, pocketless oxford shirts without box pleats?

Save for the small collars, I like the fit of APC oxfords in pictures.The fabric and construction on first season +J oxford shirts were good, but I hate that they have box pleats.

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imo thom browne shirts can not be worn untucked.

the flare is incredibly obvious and they look ridiculous if not tucked in...

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Maybe slightly, but I don;t think that's a good thing.

I like the Rugby oxfords on paper. The price is good. The cloth is thick. The colors are the right idea. Yet, none of it is right. Oxford shirts aren't supposed to have those proportions. An American shirt is not supposed to have a European fit. The blue is not quite right; neither is the pink. I always buy one when I'm in the store, and I always end up returning it.

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Everyone's just gonna wear BoO or Gitman anyway, so who gives a fuck?

I slightly disagree w/ you about the McNairy oxfords btw. The cotton has that BB non-iron sheen which is eh... and tails built for low-rise pants rub me the wrong way. Good construction/collar/fit though.

What's good w/ unlined collars? School us.

Vamp what are options for fitted, pocketless oxford shirts without box pleats?

Save for the small collars, I like the fit of APC oxfords in pictures.The fabric and construction on first season +J oxford shirts were good, but I hate that they have box pleats.

imo thom browne shirts can not be worn untucked.

the flare is incredibly obvious and they look ridiculous if not tucked in...

any intel on the rugby ocbd? slimmer than polo custom fit?
Maybe slightly, but I don;t think that's a good thing.

I like the Rugby oxfords on paper. The price is good. The cloth is thick. The colors are the right idea. Yet, none of it is right. Oxford shirts aren't supposed to have those proportions. An American shirt is not supposed to have a European fit. The blue is not quite right; neither is the pink. I always buy one when I'm in the store, and I always end up returning it.

@Phrost3

At first, I thought you were just fucking with me because that is literally the antithesis of the american oxford shirt (fitted, no pocket, without a center box pleat aka european dress shirt).

But they do exist. It's just very styleforum-y, in my opinion.

Very fitted, pocket-less, no back pleat:

https://www.kentwang.com/about/shirts

or ask this guy, about his shirt

@Mihalis I'm well aware of the 'flare' on TB shirts.

I think scott.M wears his shirts well, untucked.

Depends of the body-type.

american_hearts hit the nail on the head with his description of the rugby oxfords that dibango was talking about . I'm not gonna fuck with Ralphy L's 'affordable skinny prep' , so I have no experience with those . You get what you pay for. I guess you can call it the H&M/Zara of trad-wear? Skinny, trendy fit for young people, but shitty/cheap quality.

If you're really feeling like a 50-year old professor living in the Cambridge area or an immense trad-bro or if you are Mordechai Rubinstein, J. Press, Mercer, and Troy Shirtmakers are all good bets for your traditional oxfords.

I might be preaching to the wrong crowd, but for those that are interested (sup Pavlov's Bell), here is some quick info on unlined collars:

taken from (http://thetrad.blogspot.com/2010/04/new-old-stock.html)

"A quick primer. Unlined collars are very important to the obsessed Brooks Brothers oxford fan and here's why. It was that detail of a sloppy looking collar that actually made the shirt. In much the same way the bagginess did and still does. It is - - 110% American."

If you shop the new old stock at O'Connell's or have handled some of these older shirts, you'll know what I'm talking about. Modern shirts will have lining in the collar to make them stand up neatly. Unlined collars fall in a more relaxed and soft shape that is very important to people in the trad world. Brooks Brothers started lining their collars in the late 80s/90s and have ever since.

I think I'll save collar roll for another post, but for the ocbd purist, you can find that info on AAAC/styleforum. maybe i'll talk about different shades of "oxford blue" or "university stripes" next time?

ok, i'll stop now.

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My dad has always been a die hard bros fan, and it upsets me that it took me this long to follow in his foot steps. The quality is superb, the fit is the best, and there's no stupid horse or alligator on it. Of the several different oxford shirts I own, the bb's are by far my favorite. It really is true that "they're never out of style because they're never in style". And I couldn't ask for anything more.

I also really enjoy the store and the people who work in it. Always a wonderful experience with people who know exactly what they're doing.

Props to the bros.

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I think I'll save collar roll for another post, but for the ocbd purist, you can find that info on AAAC/styleforum. maybe i'll talk about different shades of "oxford blue" or "university stripes" next time?

ok, i'll stop now.

Brooks kills the oxford blue. KILLS. There is nothing else to say. I really can't stress how great these ESF shirts are, shit is perfect - beefy cloth, solid fit, sized collars and sleeve length, great price (3 for 199 standard - you can do much better when sales roll around), made in USA for ppl that still give a fuck about that, durable construction, just a perfect shirt. I only wish the color selection on the solid ones was a bit deeper.

Stripes? Blue/White or Red/White - what else is there to know?

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I'm probably going to sound like a ignorant street wear guy (because I am) but uh, do any of you know of a company that makes shirts with a fit similar to Supreme oxfords?

From what I've gathered Brooks Brothers ESF shirts may be similar. I know you've probably handled both Pavlov's Bell so I assume you may know the answer.

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here's a pic of an "ignorant street wear guy" in a mcnairy oxford

img2234jy.jpg

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I'm probably going to sound like a ignorant street wear guy (because I am) but uh, do any of you know of a company that makes shirts with a fit similar to Supreme oxfords?

From what I've gathered Brooks Brothers ESF shirts may be similar. I know you've probably handled both Pavlov's Bell so I assume you may know the answer.

Brooks ESF 16 fits like a Supreme L, but Supremes are a little longer.

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Good looking out man. I appreciate it.

Vampyrvargfesten :D

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Mcnairy oxford looks good but the tails are too fuckin long.

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anyone get their oxfords custom made? i have yet to find a shirting brand that fits me off the rack. i'm tall and broad but not fat, so if i find one that is big enough in the neck it usually looks like a circus tent on the sides, but if i find one that fits on the sides well, theres no chance in hell i can close the neck.

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@Vamp good lookin out man. Taken to heart

I just tried the ESF xs and they fit pretty well but they were pretty damn long on me and the pocket looked a little bit awkwardly placed. (im about 5'4-5'6 if i round up correctly:o)

anything other than black fleece that fits pretty similar but shorter and thicker than esf?

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anyone get their oxfords custom made? i have yet to find a shirting brand that fits me off the rack. i'm tall and broad but not fat, so if i find one that is big enough in the neck it usually looks like a circus tent on the sides, but if i find one that fits on the sides well, theres no chance in hell i can close the neck.

Maybe try http://www.cego.com/

OK price for custom-shirts and nice collars from what I've seen online.

Brooks Brothers does MTM shirts, and their fabric selection for oxfords is pretty good. I read somewhere that their oxford cloth for these MTM ones comes from Japan, I think.

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@Vamp good lookin out man. Taken to heart

I just tried the ESF xs and they fit pretty well but they were pretty damn long on me and the pocket looked a little bit awkwardly placed. (im about 5'4-5'6 if i round up correctly:o)

anything other than black fleece that fits pretty similar but shorter and thicker than esf?

Those are the ESF sport shirts. You need the ESF Dress Shirts (neck/sleeve sized vs S/M/L/XL). The fit is much more wearable.

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