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edc [everyday carry] shaved my wife


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oh ok for some reason i thought there was an SP version that didnt have ramping. i hope i get one like yours, sounds cool. at least the UI! if the light is in good shape i might decide to mod in a neutral XP-G and get a slotted tritium tube for it...

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JL77s pocketdump got me thinking again about picking up a little keychain tool like the shard. Here's my question though: has anyone ever tried grinding down the flathead screwdriver portion to make it fine enough to deal with sunglass screws? I think it might work, but I'm not sure how the steel will deal with being tapered so much... any thoughts, anyone?

(I am one of those who refuse to buy sunglasses that cost more than 15 bucks, since I seem to lose them with alarming frequency. The result: shitty screws.)

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The UI is nice, I didnt want to have to twist and click through a bunch of modes. My only gripe is that the chrome bezel neat the lens came off within a week (opened a beer with the light) and the anodizing isn't that great. I think this has to do with the aluminum used.

@submarine - you'd probably be better off to mill off the phillips all together, drill a hole or mill a slot, and press fit a eyeglass driver in there. If I had one in front of me I'd be able to tell you what was possible.

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jan: subcom appears to be p. popular, haven't heard many complaints about it either. gonna spring for the titan vers?

I would if I had the means to get a ti version.

I can't find my Smith and Wesson blade, and I need some replacements.

Boker Subcom is choice, Spyderco Tasman is an option for a fully serrated blade, and looking for 2 others to fill the gaps.

Boker Subcom and one other for EDC, a fully serrated edge and something else for the automobile.

On that budget tip cuz I'm po

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I would if I had the means to get a ti version.

I can't find my Smith and Wesson blade, and I need some replacements.

Boker Subcom is choice, Spyderco Tasman is an option for a fully serrated blade, and looking for 2 others to fill the gaps.

Boker Subcom and one other for EDC, a fully serrated edge and something else for the automobile.

On that budget tip cuz I'm po

s&w knives suck. i started out with s&w so i would know.

the boker subcom/warcom is a good choice. have you looked into the spyderco persistence or tenacious? the tenacious can come in partially serrated or spyder edge (fully serrated), but i don't think the persistence does.. both are more or less $30

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I liked mine for the fact that it was sharp, came out smooth, didn't have any blade play, and it was like $13. Handle was like plastic, so that wasn't a good shanking knife.

I did look into the per-nacious blades. I was more attracted to the tenacious (bigger version?)

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pencil sharpener... i always use a knife.... you guys don't use your knives to sharpen your pencils?

I would if I didn't have a really nice brass sharpener!

And I do when I don't have that one on me, but I think it's pretty deeply engrained from bike work and then leather work to use the right tool for the job whenever possible.

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I'm thinking about getting a new knife, looking at either the Microtech UTX70 or the Protech Tantilla. I remember Sonny posted about having both and feeling like the Protech was more solid, I feel like the Microtech looks to have a better/slimmer form factor while also having a longer blade and being double action, however I haven't ever held either and have to default to someone with real world experience. Anyone else have an opinion on these two knives? Thanks.

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I would if I didn't have a really nice brass sharpener!

And I do when I don't have that one on me, but I think it's pretty deeply engrained from bike work and then leather work to use the right tool for the job whenever possible.

Semi-agree. I mostly do it because when I'm in class or studio and need a really sharp point it's faster and more consistent to whip out the sharpener. I often use my knife though, esp. for charcoal since it gives a more varied tip, which can be useful for easily getting various types of lines out of the same point.

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I'm thinking about getting a new knife, looking at either the Microtech UTX70 or the Protech Tantilla. I remember Sonny posted about having both and feeling like the Protech was more solid, I feel like the Microtech looks to have a better/slimmer form factor while also having a longer blade and being double action, however I haven't ever held either and have to default to someone with real world experience. Anyone else have an opinion on these two knives? Thanks.

i don't own a utx but i own a makora. they are a lot larger than the tantilla. the tantilla is legal carry for CA, which is cool. as for feeling sturdy/solid, that might be because of the size. autos will always have some bladeplay, but it may feel less on the tantilla due to its compact size.

you wanna buy my tantilla? :D

19162_849231421293_3217831_47325896_4072511_n.jpg

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^^^ how sensitive is the blade trigger on that? I think I want a tantilla, but I'm just worried about sitting or pressing against the blade wrong and having it pop open into my ribs.

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Seriously? must have gotten a dud or something Mine is super bright and has always worked. Make sure you have it on the brightest setting and take the stock battery out because I noticed the one it came with it sucked. I run Surefire bats in all of my lights.

Also mine has R2 lasered on underneath Smart PD, so it might not be a R2.

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it didnt come with a stock battery and that's on a fresh aw rcr123. its the same if not dimmer on a fresh 4sevens (which is around the same quality as SF123)

and im sure its on max cuz thats after click hold and after ramping 4+ seconds.

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