Superfashion randoms thoughts

[Nov Spur]

Full APC S/S Collection is up on their site. My pick of the litter:

All in all the second installment makes up for the past couple of seasons in some form. Also a couple of oxfords they have look on point but at $225 I'll have to pass and hope for the sale.

[bryanayrb]

All in all the second installment makes up for the past couple of seasons in some form. Also a couple of oxfords they have look on point but at $225 I'll have to pass and hope for the sale.

i thought you were talking about oxford shoes and i was gonna be like "hey, apc finally priced their shit accordingly"

but then i looked at the site and i realized you were talking about oxford shirts and saw that the derbies were $400

i dunno what makes jean touitou price his derbies more expensive than a pair of crockett and jones. APC is like the epitome of boring for me

[madstaxbro]

What do you guys think of Volta footwear. Only seen Appleseed wearing their shoes and I'm thinking of picking up a pair of the cream low-tops myself. Maybe style it with one of those new paneled TOJ spaceman jackets.

[okonomi]

Of those, bottom left is decent but the rest aren't great. Weak point is definitely the soles.

[larssss]

Eunice of UNIS dropping knowledge on you fools complaining about pricing.

Dear Jason,

Unis is a very small company. I have one store in NYC and we wholesale to about 25 specialty boutiques in the US and Canada. I looked on Bill’s Khakis website and they are sold in over 500 stores the US. I think you can try to number crunch and imagine the economy of scale. I may have heard somewhere that Bill’s own their factory as well ( not 100% sure)….which will most definitely reduce the price of cut and sew on the pants. I totally admire Bill’s Khakis! No criticism from me…

Manufacturing in the USA will cost more. Our minimum wage here is one of the highest in the world. On top of that there are VERY few factories left here, which means, I have fewer choices. Even if I made 5,000 pairs, the cost is the cost…there isn’t a huge discount for that amount of work. I actually recently started to move my production out to LA because it’s more affordable to manufacture ( and that’s mainly because the overhead costs are much cheaper than NYC).

YOU, the consumer has chosen. You have chosen to buy cheaper, and companies have listened! They moved their production off shore. When you have so little manufacturing left in the USA, there are fewer factories who you can actually negotiate prices with.

What do you think the landed cost of a pair of $60 chinos are????

Most likely it’s landed for less than $13 a pair…into the USA. That is TOTAL cost! Fabric, trim, wash, dye, cut & sew… ALL of it. Wow.

I’m going to explain to you more in detail why my Gio chino is the price it is. The fabric is a beautiful double weave cotton twill made in Italy. I use a very good quality corozo button(not plastic), the inside construction of the Gio chino is constructed just like a tailored pant with a full waist curtain. Cotton prices have gone through the roof. No one can lock down a price anymore. It’s been crazy. The cost of shipping( gas prices)…all affects the final retail price.

On top of that…I have a very small dedicated staff, overhead and just the general cost of running a small business also adds to why my chinos cost $228.

FInally, my Gio chino has gotten so much press because it’s the best fitting fashion chino out there. The guys buy the dressy unwashed version ( for more money) as well as the garment dyed slightly rumpled version. They both make your ass look great!

You may want to watch the documentary “Schmatta”. It’s a very interesting history on the garment industry.

Best

Eunice

[spaces]

who are these guys

[Servo2000]

I'm guessing Thom Browne shop assistants.

[madstaxbro]

Eunice of UNIS dropping knowledge on you fools complaining about pricing.

Dear Jason,

Unis is a very small company. I have one store in NYC and we wholesale to about 25 specialty boutiques in the US and Canada. I looked on Bill’s Khakis website and they are sold in over 500 stores the US. I think you can try to number crunch and imagine the economy of scale. I may have heard somewhere that Bill’s own their factory as well ( not 100% sure)….which will most definitely reduce the price of cut and sew on the pants. I totally admire Bill’s Khakis! No criticism from me…

Manufacturing in the USA will cost more. Our minimum wage here is one of the highest in the world. On top of that there are VERY few factories left here, which means, I have fewer choices. Even if I made 5,000 pairs, the cost is the cost…there isn’t a huge discount for that amount of work. I actually recently started to move my production out to LA because it’s more affordable to manufacture ( and that’s mainly because the overhead costs are much cheaper than NYC).

YOU, the consumer has chosen. You have chosen to buy cheaper, and companies have listened! They moved their production off shore. When you have so little manufacturing left in the USA, there are fewer factories who you can actually negotiate prices with.

What do you think the landed cost of a pair of $60 chinos are????

Most likely it’s landed for less than $13 a pair…into the USA. That is TOTAL cost! Fabric, trim, wash, dye, cut & sew… ALL of it. Wow.

I’m going to explain to you more in detail why my Gio chino is the price it is. The fabric is a beautiful double weave cotton twill made in Italy. I use a very good quality corozo button(not plastic), the inside construction of the Gio chino is constructed just like a tailored pant with a full waist curtain. Cotton prices have gone through the roof. No one can lock down a price anymore. It’s been crazy. The cost of shipping( gas prices)…all affects the final retail price.

On top of that…I have a very small dedicated staff, overhead and just the general cost of running a small business also adds to why my chinos cost $228.

FInally, my Gio chino has gotten so much press because it’s the best fitting fashion chino out there. The guys buy the dressy unwashed version ( for more money) as well as the garment dyed slightly rumpled version. They both make your ass look great!

You may want to watch the documentary “Schmattaâ€. It’s a very interesting history on the garment industry.

Best

Eunice

For truth.

[brother teresa]

Styleforum just found out about Nike Blazers lol...

[White Teeth]

I recognize the other points made in regard to the clothing industry, but

YOU, the consumer has chosen. You have chosen to buy cheaper, and companies have listened! They moved their production off shore. When you have so little manufacturing left in the USA, there are fewer factories who you can actually negotiate prices with.

Consumers did not decide for US policymakers to institute neoliberal/globalization policies to expand and deregulate markets to the point where transnational corporations had no restrictions on the ability to produce and distribute products in multiple countries with multiple facilities.

"Voting" with your dollar, as a consumer, is a myth.

[White Teeth]

How would you define what is and what isn't a "trend"?

First of all, I believe that fashion is not an "art." Aesthetic ideas and techniques are used in its production, but the final product — a jacket, for example, is a jacket. Companies make consumer goods, meant to be consumed. So obviously fashion brands want to sell a lot rather than a little.

Second, fashion designers do not create trends. Fashion designers only "design" trends.

So who makes the trends? There are a few big syndicates of textile and material makers, who get together a year before the designers make collections, and decide what they should make for the next year. For example, the Paris textile show Premiere Vision that they do twice a year. University professors, cooks, and artists are contracted to Premiere Vision and come together to talk and brainstorm about things like where they vacationed over the last six months, what they think is visually attractive, what films they liked, what exhibitions were interesting. They talk about these things and put them up on the blackboard. They then organize these words into blocks and look for keywords within those blocks. Then they try to imagine particular colors from those blocks. In this process, the textile makers create trends as a "frame" for what to produce the next year.The textile makers make the frame, and within that frame, fashion designers go and purchase fabric from those manufacturers and then design trends that reflect their individual personalities. So designers design trends, but fabric manufacturers make the trends.

Then the media turns the fashion shows into an informational resource. And from that, everyday people start recognizing the trends: the colors, prints, or jacket sleeve for next season.

http://mekas.jp/en/interviews/229.xhtml

For example, there is a big difference between the brands Number Nine and Undercover. They are both of the same fashion DJ generation, where there are no possibilities of "new" creations. Designers make three types of clothes: things they want to make, things they want to sell, and things that they think will sell well. So when I see a show, I judge the proportion of these three categories in the show's clothing. For Comme des Garçons, 80% is what she wants to make. The other 20% is things she wants to sell, but they are mostly inner-wear pieces you don't see in the show.

[bluespring]

^PV is dope

[Desi]

doesn't Primark in London hold the same type of convention? with discussions of upcomming colors, shapes, etc.

[Vampyrvargfesten]

these fuckin prada shoes are everywhere!

damn!

snapped these two pics while in NYC:

[larssss]

Consumers did not decide for US policymakers to institute neoliberal/globalization policies to expand and deregulate markets to the point where transnational corporations had no restrictions on the ability to produce and distribute products in multiple countries with multiple facilities.

"Voting" with your dollar, as a consumer, is a myth.

Are you saying that consumers have no say whatsoever. That they are unable to vote with either their dollars or their literal "votes" ?

I disagree completely regarding voting with your dollars and see it as the most powerful voting tool most people have.

[White Teeth]

Hi, I don't see a way of discussing this without getting superpolitical. I'm sorry I was a bit vague in that comment. On a small business level, sure, consumers can dictate what stays open.

But on a systematic level.....

Edit: Ex: Look at need vs profit, and where that profit goes--it goes into growth to the point where business and politics are currently synonymous and reliant upon each other... that is all (please dont ban)

[bluespring]

doesn't Primark in London hold the same type of convention? with discussions of upcomming colors, shapes, etc.

Don't know about Primark but there's several shows that do color and fabric trends but PV Paris is the most influential. I think 60% of the mills there are from Italy. They do have some crazy cotton and knit stuff, like from Lanicio Faliero Sarti, du that makes scarf. Good tech fabrics and wool/tweeds I've seen are usually from Japan, like Komatsu Seirin, they develop stuff for Hiroki. Mills from Turkey are pretty cool too.

I just remember that the fabric of Supreme X NF waxed jacket from British Millerain is around $10. lulz

Also a good article from Scoute about fabrics and design

http://scoute.org/creators/fabricfirst

[larssss]

Hi, I don't see a way of discussing this without getting superpolitical. I'm sorry I was a bit vague in that comment. On a small business level, sure, consumers can dictate what stays open.

But on a systematic level.....

Edit: Ex: Look at need vs profit, and where that profit goes--it goes into growth to the point where business and politics are currently synonymous and reliant upon each other... that is all (please dont ban)

You have obviously got extensive knowledge on the subject. My opinions are based solely on my own experiences.

lets not get superpolitical in here and just agree to disagree

[bocaburgler]

I;m sure there is a list somewhere on superfuture, but i'm looking for new fashion sites, or blogs. something like inventory.com and scoute. if there is a thread already, please link me. thanks!

[Leonard Leroy]

oh yo...

trenchcoat over my perfecto

in the chill of the wind

best of both worlds

r kelly jay z

[bill]

take a picture next time.

did down jacket over perfecto and hoodie over perfecto and perfecto over perfecto.

[broneck]

Really hope I get this position...working for a giant company with a limitless budget that's trying to establish itself as the new "it" place for fashion in the city could be fairly good.

[Desi]

i always wanted to work as a buyer for a boutique. Hope you the position dude!

Don't forget to stock small runs of those crazy runway pieces like Oki-ni does.

[minou]

i want a pair of swim shorts to strut around in. *fag mode*

[Vampyrvargfesten]

i want a pair of swim shorts to strut around in. *fag mode*

http://www.thegoodwillout.com/product_info.php?info=p1691_adidas-OBYO-JEREMY-SCOTT-JS-FRENCH-FRIES-SWIM-TRUNK--yellow-black-.html

[minou]

Those literally are swim trunks right? I love em but i'm looking for something like kitsune's red swim shorts. Oki-ni still has em but its overpriced as usual.

Edit: i just realised that the look i wanted to go for is inspired by the styled section on oki-ni's site. Check looks 6 & 8 by julian ganio. Sexy as fuck.

[HOLY]

I got these white jil shorts for ages, dont know how to pull them off.

[echoepidemic]

try unbuttoning the top button and then unzipping the fly

[Vampyrvargfesten]

Those literally are swim trunks right?

They are very form-fitting, like speedo

[conqueror]

i have to do an anthropology presentation and part of it is on fashion. does anyone know where i can find some decent video footage (8mins or less) on an 'influential female designer' (i was thinking of rei kawakubo, ann d etc due to the fact that i know everyone else will do coco chanel) that isn't runway footage? news footage covering a collection or an interview would be great - i have tried youtube obviously but its all runway shit.