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making myown shirt, tips and advice


camat

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Quote:
Quote:

that tutorial shows a shitty way to do prints. they make it wayyy harder than it is.

--- Original message by adsurgo on Feb 1, 2006 03:17 PM

Whats an easier way to do shit then?? What a good comment...

--- Original message by dnnsmanace on Feb 1, 2006 08:59 PM

youre a dick. any fucking comment is better than none.

i know what to do.

you dont.

i win.

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http://www.stencilrevolution.com/tutorials/

there's two on there. that's how i learned.

[stencil part] personally i get a pic or design, desaturate (on photoshop), print it out, stick it on cereal box cardboard (works the best for me) and cut it out with an exacto knife. [painting part] take the stencil, spraypaint to mark where to paint, grab some acrylic paint and paint it on with a brush. sounds lame and takes a while but it works for me.

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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:

that tutorial shows a shitty way to do prints. they make it wayyy harder than it is.

--- Original message by adsurgo on Feb 1, 2006 03:17 PM

Whats an easier way to do shit then?? What a good comment...

--- Original message by dnnsmanace on Feb 1, 2006 08:59 PM

youre a dick. any fucking comment is better than none.

i know what to do.

you dont.

i win.

--- Original message by adsurgo on Feb 1, 2006 10:48 PM

could you show us how you do it?
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Stuff you need:

squeegee

photoemolusion

Some screenprinting ink

A screen.

A strong uv light

Oven (unless you go with some ink that just dries)

1. Coat the screen on both sides with photoemolusion. Put it in a light proof place over night.

2. Print out your design onto plastic film.

3. Put the film on the back side of your screen and expose it with the uv light. Try to search some diy sites to figure out how long you will need to expose the film with your particular light.

4. Wash out the screen. The parts that were under the black parts of your screen will wash away while the exposed parts will not. Hold the screen up to a light and check so there are no emolusion left in the design.

5. Let the screen dry. Speed up the drying with a hair dryer. Not to long in one spot though....

6. Print.

7. If you used plastisol inks you should bake the shirt in your oven for a little over one minute in 160 C. If you used some kind of water based ink some (all) will dry by itself. However you need to iron the backside of the print to fixate the ink.

8. Done.

Edited by Lars on Feb 6, 2006 at 05:09 PM

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more than one color on your own is a pain in the ass if you don't have a stand/printer to ensure that all your screens are registering properly. You'll ruin a ton of shirts if you've never done it before and the registration is at all tight.

Plastisol is toxic as shit and you need solvents to clean it... it's not something you want to mess with in your kitchen.

water base is usually fine if you do multiple passes, but beware printing white ink on black as it's very difficult to keep white inks on darks vivid. Black printed on light to medium colors is the most forgiving.

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Bah, plastisol isn't toxic :)

I've never been quite happy with waterbased inks.. they fade too much for my liking.

--- Original message by Lars on Feb 8, 2006 11:33 AM

true, but the solvents are nasty if you're not careful and there's the whole baking thing (on my first try I set fire to a couple shirts)

Plastisol is much sharper and vivid, but I love water based on a lighter colored high quality shirt (like American Apparel) because it seems like it's part of the shirt and not a stiff-ish plasticy layer on top that's prone to cracking. I agree tho that 90% of the time plastisol is a better solution depending on the design and what you're going for.

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This link will do.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdd8W-A-fYM

Reporter: "What do you think about western civilization?"

Gandhi: "I think it would be a good idea."

Edited by Tisswat on Feb 11, 2006 at 05:22 AM

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