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so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .


mizanation

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i asked him to tell me more about the denim.

he says that it's a repro of some vintage cone mills double x denim. he says that japanese denim factories over the years have analyzed various fabrics to measure things like the yarn thickness, the weave, etc. they check to see if the yarn thickness is consistent or if it varies, they will see how long the fibers of the yarn are, etc.... then, after they have the data, they try to create a denim that comes close to the original. however, he says that there are a couple modifications made on this fabric. there are more weft (horizontal) threads to make a tighter weave. also, the indigo dye is extra dark.

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close up:

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he wanted to show me a little detail on the coin pocket.

japanese denim enthusiasts would notice that sometimes the selvage would peek out on the sides of the coin pocket. back in the day, this was considered a manufacturing flaw that was a sign of hastily made jeans. however, the japanese denim heads thought it was kinda cool, so kuniyoshi-san always makes the selvage peek out a little.

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back when he used to work in a factory in okayama, he worked with a bunch of older women who had been sewing for decades. they would get pissed off at him when he would use only one foot on the sewing treadle. the old ladies would say that only amateurs use one foot.

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real professionals always use both feet, they would say.

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another detail he showed me was puckering on the pocket stitching. again, puckering is actually considered bad sewing. however, the japanese noticed puckering on some of the vintage jeans and liked it. so, kuniyoshi-san likes to add a little puckering to the pocket stitching...

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it was cool to see all the little details that kuniyoshi-san puts into these jeans. he really is an expert on jean construction.

to get an idea of how well he knows this stuff, i asked him how many jeans he has made and he says that he has worked on over 300,000 pairs of jeans over the past 10 years. there was a time when he was part of an assembly line that churned out 250 pairs a day.

over 300,000 pairs of jeans.

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