so, i'm having a pair of jeans made . . . .

[beautiful_FrEaK]

really great thread! already one of my favorites!

[Opie]

That was just beautifull!

I think i know where my next pair of jeans will come from, if he can do the specs..

[snuff_daddy]

love this thread man, thnx for the updates

[MonkeyFresh]

Great thread! so glad i subscribed to this

and I loved the tidbits about denim construction/ history

I just noticed some selvage peeking out the sides of the coin pocket on my SEXSC06 but unfortunately I don't think there is any puckering haha

keep the pictures coming, this is a great photo-documentary on great jeans in the making

[Linwe]

I think I'd give up my future firstborn to get a custom pair like that. Awesome stuff!

Keep the pics coming

[mizanation]

ok, let's talk zippers.

here is the selvage zipper i was telling y'all about. these are made by waldes which was one of the factories that made the vintage made-in-japan talon zippers. they are using the same methods, materials and designs for these zippers.

with this zipper, you are actually zipping the two selvage ends together!

[mizanation]

some other zippers:

[lmaozedong]

definitely the coolest zippers i've ever seen on a pair of jeans. +rep

[mizanation]

the zipper tape on these waldes zippers, which are the two pieces of cloth, are made out of 100% cotton, just like the old days. these days, zipper tape is usually made out of polyester which does not age over time--while your jeans fade, your zipper tape still looks brand new.

these zippers will age as your denim fades.

[mizanation]

waldes also does not mass-produce any of their zippers. meaning, they won't make the zippers until you put in the order. the price difference compared to YKK is quite shocking. the waldes zippers cost about 10 times more than YKK, but i think it's worth it.

['lejandro]

the japanese are amazing.

[MonkeyFresh]

WOW :eek:

I was a follower of button flys over zippers but after seeing those, I'm starting to question myself

[tahonng]

I wanna know if you're thinking of apprenticing to this guy.

I remember your threads where you made your own denim pants and jacket.

[mizanation]

I wanna know if you're thinking of apprenticing to this guy.

I remember your threads where you made your own denim pants and jacket.

no, i have decided that i am not going to be a jeans maker. once in a while, i will probably get together with him and make a pair for fun.

[mizanation]

ok, so here's the ishigaki cowhide patch. it's very smooth and has a pinkish tint. i might ask kamida-san if he has any ideas for a cool patch. maybe he has some interesting leathers...

incidentally, a lot of kobe beef actually starts off as ishigaki beef. they raise them here because it's cheaper and then when they get to a certain age, they ship them off to kobe.

[mizanation]

i took my sufu 660 jeans to him for repair. like all my jeans, the crotch eventually blows out. the only exception to this is my warehouse duckdiggers which has extra crotch support.

[mizanation]

kuniyoshi-san was very impressed with the sufu 660's. in fact, he says that he hasn't bought a pair of jeans in 10 years but for a good pair of warehouse, he might make an exception. he tooks some time to explain some special details about the jeans...

first he showed me the belt loops. notice that the middle of the belt loop is raised. he said that warehouse was the first guys to notice that the belt loops on some old jeans had a bump in the middle. what this bump does is reduce the friction on the stitching. warehouse made a custom made sewing machine attachment to reproduce this raised middle.

he showed me a pair of jeans with flat belt loops. doesn't have the same visual and textural impact...

[mizanation]

you can even see the raised bump on the back pockets of the sufu 660.

[mizanation]

next, he pointed out the type of thread they use.

on the waistband, they use a very thick thread. on the yoke they use a slightly thinner thread and on the pockets they use a thin thread.

what this does is add the visual appearance of contour on the jeans. if you use the same thickness of thread all over the place, the jeans look flat, but when you vary the thickness of the thread, you get a slight 3D effect. it's a small detail and most companies don't use so many different types of thread, but it makes an aesthetic difference, albeit a small one.

[mizanation]

the buttons are not stainless, so they oxidize nicely over time.

[Motion]

wow ^^ you got me scrutinizing all my jeans now...

very interesting!!!

[mizanation]

when kuniyoshi-san looks at a pair of jeans he sees every single detail. it's interesting to take a pair of jeans to him and have him point everything out.

[DaBestSpoona]

I'm tempted to drop by miz and get a pair. But I'm saving up for a tiny apt.

[mizanation]

whatup spoona. where you at these days?

[PandaDenim]

This is neat!

I've tried making my own pair of denim with some rough instruction from tg76.

Came out...just barely wearable...

Practice makes perfect!

There are a few places like this in Tokyo as well.

[DaBestSpoona]

I'm home in nyc, was gonna be actually in Saga, sorta near you, but I'm sacrificing travel to save some guap.

[DaBestSpoona]

Evisu does customs too for around the same price, but nowhere this highly detailed and intricate.

[rnrswitch]

Man this is amazing.

[16steps]

im sure kuniyoshi-san doesn't want his spot blown, but do you think he'd want to take on more customers? Id love to have a pair of handmade jeans to my specifications for 300

[snuff_daddy]

good updates