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Not sure I'd use the Cayce Pollard reference as yes- she was adversely aware of direct branding, but also had an eye for non-linear 'lines' of clothing. I'm thinking that the branding can very often manifest itself too far into the clothing itself. As witnessed of late by both Veilance and Acronym imo. To bring this idea further, I believe that in the character of Cayce, Gibson was trying to express the inherent classical-ness of certain design tropes, and how they transcend hypes, genres, buzz (Rickson pun intended), political movements, and pop/fashion culture as a whole.  

Edited by brainerd666
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2 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

Not sure I'd use the Cayce Pollard reference as yes- she was adversely aware of direct branding, but also had an eye for non-linear 'lines' of clothing. I'm thinking that the branding can very often manifest itself too far into the clothing itself. As witnessed of late by both Veilance and Acronym imo. To bring this idea further, I believe that in the character of Cayce, Gibson was trying to express the inherent classical-ness of certain design tropes, and how they transcend hypes, genres, buzz (Rickson pun intended), political movements, and pop/fashion culture as a whole.  

Yes, I do suppose that Veilance and Acronym have become more than aware of their places in fashion.

..And neither of the two can be considered a "design free zone"

Cayce was an example of classic design sure, but she was also an exaggeration of the state of branding and fashion in the early 2000s, the ubiquity of certain brands that constituted the norm, you know, the "Tommy Hilfiger event horizon" where clothing that can be no more derivative, more devoid of soul, and their presence in the environment of inescapable advertising. A point where calculated design and more and more targeted advertising is ever present (insert Francis Fukuyama quote on the "satisfaction of sophisticated consumer demands" here) and the most interesting fashion is a kind of anti-fashion. It's in Stonestreet's slept-in suit, and that shpeal Cayce has about Doretea attempt to "out minimalize" her, and the infamous Buzz Rickson's black MA-1 (which is its own ironic beast [https://www.historypreservation.com/products-page/brands/buzz-ricksons-william-gibson-collection-black-ma-1-intermediate-flying-jacket-modified-tailored-cut/]).

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AV and ACR are polar opposites. a closer analogy would be Apple. AV is a super fast growing brand that has successfully moved from a boutique context to a mainstream context because, like apple, it created a demand that didn't exist before. Consumers with a more traditional taste in clothing and a good amount of money to spend would take their money for outerwear to the same brands that make their suits and sweaters, whose traditional products have performance drawbacks that the customer simply considered inherent in the product. Of course a nice overcoat sucks in the rain. And then arc'teryx shows up and flips that paradigm, creating a demand where previously there was none. Much like nobody realized they need a tablet or a screen without visible pixels until apple came along.

I would be willing to bet that 99% of all people who own AV only own one piece, and do not 'follow' the brand or obsess over it's background and design aesthetic but simply needed a new coat or stumbled on a blazer and thought "this is different and cool". In the eyes of the average consumer, AV is somewhere on a continuum with aspesi and hugo boss. It is not driven by the same kind of market dynamics as ACR, and is very traditional from a business perspective. Much like Apple, the AV approach works because it's a excellent combination of business savvy and a design-centric product development approach. 

 

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I think I accidentally revealed Veilance 2017 F/W webpage. However, when I clicked on 2017 F/W, it shows as below link, there is nothing new..

https://veilance.arcteryx.com/ProductFind.aspx?country=ca&language=en&collection=Veilance_Collection_Fall_2017

I think they are preparing to launch of 2017 F/W and the Veilance webiste purchasing UI has been revamped. The way to show the stock and the detail pictures is different from before. More user friendly to shop around their website.

Can't wait to see what's new in 2017 F/W series.

 

螢幕快照 2017-07-25 02.15.53.png

Edited by Chiels
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On 7/21/2017 at 10:03 PM, shifty said:

Veilance is the kind of brand that isn't daunting in a fashion sense and can appeal to the average person as just nice minimal design, but people who are in the know can appreciate it for everything else that the brand has to offer as far as aesthetics and detailing. I've seen more veilance on uncool dads wearing square toed loafers than I've seen elsewhere, and while thats not the same audience that veilance has really found a niche with (like people here), I don't feel like it takes away anything from it.

Completely agree. I have a few finance bros who own veilance jackets and they don't really know much about the brand, other than what the Barney's SA told them. I think for all of these guys, they were looking for a clean, warm jacket that could be used to the office (ie. something that wasn't Moncler or Canada Goose) and veilance appealed to them. 

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Has anybody else encountered issues with the "Arc'teryx" logo lettering on the tag falling off? I bought a pair of Voronoi pants from the Mr. Porter sale about a month ago and have been wearing them regularly to work. They've quickly become one of my favorite pairs of pants, but I was somewhat alarmed to discover yesterday that the "Arc" and "Made in" lettering on the hang tag had fallen off. Of course, this doesn't affect the function of the pants themselves in any way and is a minute detail, but I was somewhat disappointed encountering such a problem from such an expensive pair of pants.  

Edited by skier
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Anyone got any insight into the difference between the Nomin Pack and mainstream Arc'teryx backpacks? Ordinary Arc'teryx is already pretty high build quality, but their bags are almost comically cheaper, genuinely curious as to what the differences are (besides aesthetic) and whether there is any real price justification, other than due to branding/R&D costs.

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1 minute ago, Hades said:

Anyone got any insight into the difference between the Nomin Pack and mainstream Arc'teryx backpacks? Ordinary Arc'teryx is already pretty high build quality, but their bags are almost comically cheaper, genuinely curious as to what the differences are (besides aesthetic) and whether there is any real price justification, other than due to branding/R&D costs.

It's like german automakers man, you pay more for less. Same technology except you don't look like you're hiking. The bags aren't cheaper, they're minimalist in that they're trying to make the bag less weight with weatherproofness. The Nomin isn't a pack for a ton of stuff, it's a workbag with weatherproofing.

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3 hours ago, CARLOOA said:

It's like german automakers man, you pay more for less. Same technology except you don't look like you're hiking. The bags aren't cheaper, they're minimalist in that they're trying to make the bag less weight with weatherproofness. The Nomin isn't a pack for a ton of stuff, it's a workbag with weatherproofing.

The Nomin pack is one of the most frequent used backpack I have. It is really light and, different from other outdoor backpacks, it doesn't have the wrist bands. For those who use in the city, the wrist band is redundant. And I wasn't quit interested into the Tote bag either, but when I got it from a friend. the long and short handles make it so useful. Veilance is something you may doubt yourself why you shall pay so much for it, but when you got it you realize it is worthy what you paid. 

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Got to peep the new Veilance catalog. The operand ls and scann shirts look super promising in addition to the renewed patrol 3 in 1. Also, the field pant is in 3L windstopper and voronoi AR is coming back with stretch. :D Gonna be a great season.

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20 hours ago, Chiels said:

The Nomin pack is one of the most frequent used backpack I have. It is really light and, different from other outdoor backpacks, it doesn't have the wrist bands. For those who use in the city, the wrist band is redundant. And I wasn't quit interested into the Tote bag either, but when I got it from a friend. the long and short handles make it so useful. Veilance is something you may doubt yourself why you shall pay so much for it, but when you got it you realize it is worthy what you paid. 

I owned Nomin for 2 years. Don't remember what season and what material was it (around 2015 SS or FW), but it was very scratchy. Backpack always looked very dirty even i wiped it. Also, i still don't understand what is the advantage that first section of the bag couldn't be opened in full. As the result i sold it for half price i paid.

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6 hours ago, Nomerok said:

I owned Nomin for 2 years. Don't remember what season and what material was it (around 2015 SS or FW), but it was very scratchy. Backpack always looked very dirty even i wiped it. Also, i still don't understand what is the advantage that first section of the bag couldn't be opened in full. As the result i sold it for half price i paid.

maybe u got the ripstop one. fw2017 redesign will have the coated ac2 fabric so it still might 'look dirty' but thats just how it patinas. the first section of the bag got reworked to open fully now, so it's a lot more usable for most people

10 hours ago, CARLOOA said:

Got to peep the new Veilance catalog. The operand ls and scann shirts look super promising in addition to the renewed patrol 3 in 1. Also, the field pant is in 3L windstopper and voronoi AR is coming back with stretch. :D Gonna be a great season.

hmm after seeing ss18 im way more hype for that than for fw17 but that doesnt mean fw17 is bad (new nomin pack, haedn series, and field pant hype). the operand sample i saw a while ago looked so shiny, so im curious to see what the final finish looks like. also idk if voronoi AR is coming with stretch, i believe its the same 25/75 nyco. ss18 voronoi becomes an updated nyco, and even then i dont recall if it has elastane content.

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1 hour ago, branespload said:

maybe u got the ripstop one. fw2017 redesign will have the coated ac2 fabric so it still might 'look dirty' but thats just how it patinas. the first section of the bag got reworked to open fully now, so it's a lot more usable for most people

hmm after seeing ss18 im way more hype for that than for fw17 but that doesnt mean fw17 is bad (new nomin pack, haedn series, and field pant hype). the operand sample i saw a while ago looked so shiny, so im curious to see what the final finish looks like. also idk if voronoi AR is coming with stretch, i believe its the same 25/75 nyco. ss18 voronoi becomes an updated nyco, and even then i dont recall if it has elastane content.

 

the voronoi AR has been mistakenly described as a stretch woven for a couple of seasons now. it's probably the same copy. 

The operand is the same kevlar/poly blend as the old stealth, which is hype as fuck. A 'scann' shirt is not on my radar, color me intruiged.

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scann supposed to be the same cotton/nylon as the front of the component, but i dont think it has the hidden chest pocket and merino jersey back paneling. but tbh i havent seen any samples of the scann LS anywhere… wouldnt be surprised if it got scrapped like the LS buttondown that was supposed to make it to ss17

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4 minutes ago, branespload said:

scann supposed to be the same cotton/nylon as the front of the component, but i dont think it has the hidden chest pocket and merino jersey back paneling. but tbh i havent seen any samples of the scann LS anywhere… wouldnt be surprised if it got scrapped like the LS buttondown that was supposed to make it to ss17

Scann wasn't scrapped to my knowledge, Seattle Arc'teryx had it on the buylist—the associate said it compared to the component favorably, I will check again today and report back. IIRC the operand was advertised under the "Rain" subsection of the catalog and the Scann was in the "Wind" section. Additionally, Arc'teryx Seattle should have all their FW in late next week. :D

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6 hours ago, keno190 said:

does the veilance suit pairings (blazer lt/voronoi & indisce) look too techy/wrinkly cuz of the fabric? Would it look out of place at an agency? 

Wouldn't wear it to a very formal setting (i.e. court) but Blazer LT looks great with a button up underneath. Voronoi are harder to wear formally since the patterning/fit can overpower and look strange depending on what top/jacket you're wearing. Unless you have a very conservative office, either should work. Neither are particularly wrinkly once I take it out of my closet and wear it for a bit. Haven't handled Indisce but if it's anything like other Veilance goretex, it'd be quite noisy with movement, keep that in mind.

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17 hours ago, keno190 said:

does the veilance suit pairings (blazer lt/voronoi & indisce) look too techy/wrinkly cuz of the fabric? Would it look out of place at an agency? 

I think what should be taken in to consideration when putting Blazer LT as a formal (I would said semi-formal) circumstance is, whether you need several buttons to make it look formal. I would say Blazer LT + Voronoi is somehow perfect to me. I own two pairs of Blazer LT + Voronoi in both black and blue. The color just matches perfectly. If you really want to look formal then I would suggest you put on Quoin vest, it helps a lot. If you regard the fabric of Voronoi is too soft, then try Align pants, it is harder but you should well choose your shoes, the length of Align pants is not very long to fully cover your ankle.

 

11 hours ago, Hades said:

Wouldn't wear it to a very formal setting (i.e. court) but Blazer LT looks great with a button up underneath. Voronoi are harder to wear formally since the patterning/fit can overpower and look strange depending on what top/jacket you're wearing. Unless you have a very conservative office, either should work. Neither are particularly wrinkly once I take it out of my closet and wear it for a bit. Haven't handled Indisce but if it's anything like other Veilance goretex, it'd be quite noisy with movement, keep that in mind.


Indisce is another good choice, looks better (thicker, therefore, harder) than Blazer LT.  But it is just warmer. I once put it on for a very formal lecture, my colleagues gave very positive feedback to the Indisce. 

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Awesome! Thanks for the info @Chiels  @Hades @_inwonderland Admittedly, I'm just looking for an excuse to get rid of two suits and have my closet almost all veilance/outlier. I don't wear blazers/suits to work at all since I'm working in a creative field and my office doesn't have a dress code (super lax).

Even though I just got a conduct anorak and a monitor jacket, it's harder for me to pull the trigger on veilance non-outerwear or pants. I've found them lacking at the moment. Hopefully I can try the FW 17 blazers/pants and make a decision.

Edited by keno190
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I have (video) reviews of Blazer LT and Haedn Blazer online, if that would help (though nothing's better than trying on oneself).

What nobody's mentioned (too obvious? Edit: Okay, mentioned about the Indisce) is that the Blazer LT is made of a much thinner material, really more for hot weather or to just wear it for the look whereas others (such as the mentioned Haedn Blazer) are much thicker, thus more protective and more of the classical blazer/suit look (especially the Haedn with its worsted wool-look).

Going for classical silhouettes in places that don't strictly require those looks is exactly what I'd recommend these pieces for ;)

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On 7/30/2017 at 0:01 AM, Hades said:

Wouldn't wear it to a very formal setting (i.e. court) but Blazer LT looks great with a button up underneath. Voronoi are harder to wear formally since the patterning/fit can overpower and look strange depending on what top/jacket you're wearing. Unless you have a very conservative office, either should work. Neither are particularly wrinkly once I take it out of my closet and wear it for a bit. Haven't handled Indisce but if it's anything like other Veilance goretex, it'd be quite noisy with movement, keep that in mind.

I had to contest some tickets in court a few months ago and wore a black Indisce blazer and black Anode pants (with a white Paul Smith shirt and an Hermes tie) and it didn't hurt my case (got the tickets dismissed.)

 

Then again, other than the Judge I was the only other person even wearing a tie...

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