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Thanks, all, for the information. Ludovic, of Son of Stag, was kind enough to measure a pair of 1001xx in this size (32) for me, and unfortunately I don't think the thighs'll be quite roomy enough for me. Anyway, in case anyone else was interested, here they are: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v540192475. Not a super-duper incredible deal or anything, but still a good ~$50 off usual retail even after int'l shipping + proxy fees, and not a model that I think I've seen around elsewhere. I was starting to get my hopes up…

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After shrinking and stretching is all said and done, I'd like at least 13" measured at the crotch and 12.5" measured 2" down for a ~33" waist. Gotta keep that good range of motion. I'll look into those models a bit, thanks!

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After emailing warehouse a couple of questions about the c/l denim and when we could expect a restock I was told:

Thank you for the inquiry.
However, this item is sold out.
There is no plan to re-arrive the item.
Thank you for your email.”

So either that’s a wrap for the c/l denim or something was lost in translation but i reckon it’s the former.

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My regular 800s came one wash and after an hour long hot soak with agitation and a cold machine wash the thighs did not shrink a noticeable amount. They remained at 12.5.”

I say they might be too small because when I was doing some research I found @Bobbo‘s measurements from a while back, his size 33 measured around 12.25” at the thigh, they also had a shorter rise.

Edited by jegr
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Maybe Lot. 1101 could be what you're looking for, @julian-wolf? I have regular 800s and 1101s in a size 30. My measurement notes indicate that both have an 11.5" (the 1101 between .5 and .75) thigh right after wash + dry, but although they're similar on paper it certainly doesn't feel that way. The 1101s have a way more comfortable top block and stretch more too. I can measure the thigh after wear later, if any interest?

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3 hours ago, jegr said:

My regular 800s came one wash and after an hour long hot soak with agitation and a cold machine wash the thighs did not shrink a noticeable amount. They remained at 12.5.”

I say they might be too small because when I was doing some research I found @Bobbo‘s measurements from a while back, his size 33 measured around 12.25” at the thigh, they also had a shorter rise.

Maybe we're measuring different legs. The rise ought to be the same though.

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It's most likely the same denim as the regular DD-1003SXX considering they have the same lot number and year (1943). The pictures make them look like a different shade, but I think it's just the lighting. Too bad the arcs aren't solid in colour, but I understand why that may cause an issue... That western shirt looks rather nice as well.

On a slightly different note, does anyone know of they have any plans of restocking the DD-1004XX (1922 model)? 

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I'm new to fancy repro denim... my daily go to jeans are an old cheap vintage 60's pair of Penney's Ranchrcraft which I've worn for over a year and have never washed because I'm afraid it will shrink the rise. Before that, I was into decidedly UN-hip utilitarian $40 Wranglers. I just returned from Tokyo 3 days ago and visited the Warehouse shop in Daikanyama but I'm kicking myself for not trying on any of their jeans! I stopped in to buy a few striped tops and some clothes for my wife. I just discovered Warehouse denim range and sent an int'l order request for the WW2 '43 DD-1003SXX one wash. This is my first foray into the world of Japanese raw denim and I'm pretty excited about it. I'm hoping that I ordered the right size though... I'm a true to size 33 waist (i.e. natural waist with proper rise) and my current Ranchcrafts measure exactly 16.5" (33) across the waist w/o any stretch. Based on the Warehouse website specs, I decided to order my true size: 33. It gives an extra half inch in the front rise which I really wanted. Can anyone comment whether this was the right decision? Do you find that they fit true to size? Should I be concerned about bum sag or anything like that? Is the cut fairly straight forward? I tend to dress in mostly vintage mid-century American cloth; oxford button downs and high waisted trousers, shetlands, sack jackets, 50s sportswear, ex:

 Full_Size_Render_15.jpgFull_Size_Render_13.jpg

Can anyone tell me anything more about the cut of the 1943 model? It'd be nice to see some fit pics but I haven't come across anything useful online. I'd also like to know more about the 'one wash' process... I assume this means the denim has already been pre-shrunk and therefore won't be altered by further soaking or washing? Does this also diminish the indigo dye bleeding so I needn't worry about tucking in cotton shirts?

Lastly, can anyone offer comparison between the '43 and '45 model? They seem to be very similar in fit but oddly, the measurements on the '45 seem slightly less tapered than the '43, which was part of the determining factor for me. I also prefer the minimalist WW2 era design. I'd considered the '47s as well but they come up a bit shorter in the rise, so that was a deal breaker.

One final question - I noticed that Warehouse just listed a limited edition of the 1943 model. Can anyone explain how it differs from the standard '43? It appears to be a pre-order so measurements haven't been posted yet as I'm guessing they're waiting on stock to arrive.

Thanks for your input!

Edited by OliverB
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Welcome to Sufu @OliverB.

Well, that was really the best chance you had for picking up some Warehouse jeans but buying online also works if you know your measurements. 

You have many questions and I try to answer some of them. One-wash is as the name suggests just one wash. It's done to remove the shrinkage from an unsanforized denim and also the starch and sizing agents in the fabric, making the fabric drape better due to being softer. It will also remove some loose indigo but the crocking won't stop and you will still get some indigo stains on your clothing. Especially if you tuck in your white shirts. But usually the indigo is easily removed by washing your shirt. 

About the fit. While there may be some small differences on paper the 1943 and 1945 probably won't look drastically different. It's more in the details like buttons and pocket bag fabric. In general the 40s and WW2 models are quite roomy with straight legs and high rises but from the fit pic you posted this should be right up your alley. 

The 1003SXX is indeed a limited edition and not available as of yet. But as you saw, you can pre-order them. Limited editions are happening quite often in the raw denim world. Sometime because fabric or hardware is vintage and limited, sometimes to push sales or sometimes to just make something special and out of the ordinary. Most brands offer limited editions. The main difference from this limited edition are the painted arcuates on the back pocket I believe. 

 

Edit: if you Google the model numbers 1003xx and 1003sxx you can find several fit pics, mostly from stores. This could give you a hint how the jeans might fit.

Edited by beautiful_FrEaK
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Thanks for addressing all of my questions; that's very helpful and much appreciated!

I submitted an order yesterday for the standard 1943 one wash denim and received a confirmation email, but I've yet to hear back from Warehouse re. postage or payment. Do they usually respond within 24 hours? I really hope that they still have stock in my size!

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Is painted arcuates a denim term? Surely you don't mean that the double stitching on the back pockets are actually painted, right?

Is it likely that the measurements will vary on this limited edition from the standard '43 model? It may just be the photos, but the top block seems to sit a little bit higher which could possibly indicate a marginally higher rise. A friend who knows way more about denim than I do (that's not too hard) suggested that it might also have a slightly heavier weight with a low tension weave to the fabric... Any thoughts?

Edited by OliverB
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The 1003 is a WW2 model which means it is a reproduction of a Levi’s 501 during the 2nd World War. In that time Levi’s had to change some things on their jeans in order to fulfill the government’s requirements about saving material. That’s why Levi’s removed the cinch from the jeans, removed the rivets from the coin pockets, used any fabric they got for the pocket bags (like flannel or herringbone fabric) and also had to get rid off their arcuates as they were only cosmetic and they had to save thread. But to be able to still advertise their jeans as Levi’s they painted the arcuate. Another WW2 detail would be the laurel leaf buttons.

It can very well be that the limited edition has different measurements but with Warehouse I doubt that they are so different that the jeans won’t fit. It could be that they have a higher rise.
Warehouse usually uses two different denims, their 13.5oz Banner denim and their 14.5oz denim. But every now and then they use different denim. What they use for this limited edition has not been published yet (I think).

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Thanks for the explanation; that all makes good sense! Ironically, the stripped-down minimalist look resulting from budget constraints and the rough imperfections combined with natural waisted forties cut is not only right up my alley but what I'd have envisioned as the perfect jeans! I'm now official owner as I've just sent payment over to Warehouse. What could be more fitting on this particular eve as we inch towards WW3? ;)

I can't wait for these to turn up in the mail, I hope the shipping is pretty quick!

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Hi Oliver, I own both the 1943 and 1945 DD1003xx, and as @beautiful_FrEaK correctly suggested, the fit is pretty much the same for both pairs and if there is a difference it's not noticeable when trying both pairs on! I ended up with both as Warehouse initially sent me the wrong ones (1943 when I'd ordered 1945) but I ended up keeping both as the cut, details and denim are all absolutely fantastic. Already the 1945 are one of my faves but I also love the WW2 details of the 1943. I'm already tempted by the painted arc version mentioned further up this page but I'll need to resist or face some heat from the missus!

I think you're going to love the 1943, and I'd recommend the 1945 too. I was contemplating the 1947 but again these might have to wait for the same reason as the ltd edition 43's! 

Enjoy the jeans when they arrive- I'm a massive Fullcount fan and my 1003's were my first foray into Warehouse. Both brands are now joint top faves- I'd always recommend the Fullcount 0105 as a perfect jean too!

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1 hour ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

not buying

just saying

triple pleat palette widening...

#wishlist

heller's cafe hc-245

 

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Heller's Cafe doesn't seem to be of interest around these parts. I was surprised that he's coined the king of vintage.

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