Gareth Pugh Mens F/W 09.10 Paris

[inaya]

well modern can obviously apply to many things so it's a bit broad to try to define as a whole. however when I said it there, in terms of this collection, i meant it just like that : that, today - while throwing away past ideals, confinements, gender roles within society, etc - that in THAT regard, I find this to be "modern"... but I guess I could ave used a different word.

I don't like the term wearability and I also dislike gender specifications. I think the true way of moving forward is to abolish these ridiculous confines and to see things for what they really are.

[Guest jhaime9]

see while I agree with you (perhaps more on a sociological perspective rather than just solely confined to fashion);

I don't think ripping away identity of gender is too applicable, simply due to the fact that we're not an a-sexual species & that I don't think many men would feel to greatly confident sporting a nice summer dress over their jeans.

aesthetically, or perhaps more concerned with a designers vision, there is an inevitable gender crossover, but there's a fine line.

although, if a man wishes to dress in womenswear & vice-versa...there shouldn't be a boundary of social acceptance or applicability. But then we're back to the sociological, cultural & of course religious debate surrounding restriction & normative compliance.

i'd also go as far as saying we're a couple centuries away from harbouring this form of mentality revolving dress, style & its perception...(such as class, wealth, belief, background etc)

[inaya]

seen but while you feel some men would feel uncomfortable a certain way - that is my entire point.

it's only society's roles bestowed upon us which give us this sense of what's right and wrong - the feelings that determine comfort and discomfort with something. while there are certainly aspects of life where gender is a factor, I personally don't believe clothing is one of them.

that is what I mean by how, now and in the future (i guess that's what i meant by modern), i'd like to see this abolished to some degree. obviously it's not going to happen in the whole of fashion because our world is so stuck on gender. but, I think to those designers brave enough to attempt providing an alternative - that we shouldn't insult them by placing gender tags on the work they've so clearly worked against the ideals of.

[inaya]

also I meant to say ... what I mean by all the above rambling is... I think people should examine his work on other levels; rather than instantaneously viewing it from a wearability or gender perspective.

but of course, any discussion is good discussion

[sunkenshoes]

I love this collection. Would totally cop those fringe(?) shirts.

[Guest jhaime9]

If Gareth shared your philosophy, why is he showing two different collections this season for men & women...or isn't he?

Getting away from the whole debate surrounding 'wearability' or 'gender specific' (i in fact think this collection is incredibly wearable!)

Gareth this morning is being hailed as the new messiah/king of menswear, something i explicably refute...

i mean, let us break it down...

heavy use of metallics, check.

slashed trousers, check.

over-sized coats, check.

where's the progression of silhouette, form, volume, movement...

if we break the separates down as you say Inaya, removing the decoration or embellishment, seing the pieces for what they are...

is Gareth really re-defining menswear? There's a huge media juggernaut swaying in his favour at present, but i'm not going to let it's gravitational pull swallow me into the Pugh frenzy...

yes, this is an outstanding collection, yes i'd wear a lot of it, assuming i could afford it, but that's as far as it goes...

[Guest jhaime9]

incidently, i apologise if i'm sounding rather aggressive, it's not my intention.

i respect your opinions & on the whole agree, quite enjoyed this little discussion

[inaya]

I definitely do think you are really nitpicking at this point. you asked for my opinion and I gave it.

anyways - you clearly don't understand my "philosophy" because nowhere did I say there shouldn't be separate mens and womenswear lines - I just think the "rules" within those collections should be broken down a bit.

[darkanimal]

This is trully fucking Dark Glamour at its best!!

[Guest jhaime9]

I definitely do think you are really nitpicking at this point. you asked for my opinion and I gave it.

anyways - you clearly don't understand my "philosophy" because nowhere did I say there shouldn't be separate mens and womenswear lines - I just think the "rules" within those collections should be broken down a bit.

meow

[Mr Calvin Oscar]

diorickulius homme

[junglejane]

yeah... "what is wearability" indeed!

It's all subjective. I, for one, find this collection extremely wearable, even though it's extravagant I don't find it to be costumey, like a galliano or JPG collection.

What I also love about GP's stuff is that, under all the little decorations, there is a beautifully crafted garment underneath. It's not just a mock-up of his ideas.

While I have been disappointed by the choice of material for his more basic pieces, his tailored pieces and more extravagant garments are amazingly finished.

i guess I just can't wait to see all this shiz and try some of it on O_O

[ledger]

was expecting huge things,somewhat good but not huge.

pieces on their own would be great and some of the hood things,suits and a few other things ,but together it seems a bit full on.

but cool none the less is spose.

[inaya]

meow

that's fantastic. really great. good point!!!

[Guest jhaime9]

that's fantastic. really great. good point!!!

i'm sorry...i don't have claws...

i do bite though...

.....

scroll down, have a read...stop having a pop, cheers.

[junglejane]

i'm sorry...i don't have claws...

i do bite though...

.....

scroll down, have a read...stop having a pop, cheers.

[Guest jhaime9]

:eek:

[Fuuma]

I'd wear some of that shit and I'm not dressing wild homo like some of you guys. The triangle suit and metal triangle trench are awesome and the coat with the strap quite accessible to people who thought luster was cool.

With that being said while I do agree that some loosening of the normative structure is always nice I don't want signifiers associated to clothes to all go down the drain and mingle in one nice sludge of everyone wearing anything and it having no meaning beyond aesthetic considerations. I like my aesthetics with a slice of sociology.

[debaser]

love it but would still be more interested in wearing some of the more flamboyant pieces from his womens collections to be honest

[tangerine]

...

I think Pugh could do quite well in a capacity doing haute couture somewhere down the line, maybe even within the structure of an existing storied fashion house. Would like to see how he takes his vision if given such an opportunity.

Are you referring to this?

In Support Of Pugh

28 January 2009, 06:27PM

FOLLOWING weeks of rumours from the fashion front line, Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH, has confirmed that the luxury goods conglomerate he controls is financing Gareth Pugh's shows.

The rumour-mill went in to overdrive this week when Delphine Arnault, Bernard's daughter, attended Pugh's Paris menswear show, declaring it "amazing." The confirmation of support by Arnault however, may not put paid to the whispers just yet.

For some time fashion insiders have been suggesting Pugh may be appointed to take the helm of an LVMH label. The house of Dior in particular has been proposed as a new home for the Sunderland-born designer who finds himself repeatedly named as a possible replacement for Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme. Arnault said: "He's an interesting designer, and it's good to support him...But LVMH does that with many talented people, even musicians."

For now he remains an independent, but firmly under LVMH's esteemed wing.

Would this be good or bad for Gareth Pugh?

My first thought was that I don't want to see him involved in a conglomerate - particularly LVMH. But it has been pointed out that in some ways, it might be a good exercise for him, as you suggest.

I love looking at this collection, but it's too flash for me to wear.

[Paean]

naiseeeee

[justinonfire]

Show us ya neo zombie

[juliaN.]

Are you referring to this?

Would this be good or bad for Gareth Pugh?

My first thought was that I don't want to see him involved in a conglomerate - particularly LVMH. But it has been pointed out that in some ways, it might be a good exercise for him, as you suggest.

I love looking at this collection, but it's too flash for me to wear.

thanks for the heads up tang, i was not even aware of this article

I think it could possibly be a good thing for Pugh, but dependent on factors including and also beyond Pugh's own vision. I think Galliano is great, but if it would not be an overload on Pugh, the entire Dior house could go through a revamp and have GP oversee both men's and women's. Galliano could then focus solely on building up his own brand, or perhaps stay on board for RTW, have Pugh do women's HC and DH, or some other permutation involving the two at Dior. There is a real asymmetry going on pretty much all levels in that brand right now when putting the men's/women's side by side. I think during Hedi's golden era this contrast provided an interesting identity for the house, but now it is getting a bit chaotic. I don't check all the time, but based on what I've seen, Dior Homme doesn't get the traffic like it used to. Could be an isolated case, but the backlash is pretty far reaching and apparent from just a glance across the board on various net mediums.

[Guest jhaime9]

I haven't made my mind up on this. I doubt I could look good wearing most of it but some of the jackets look really nice. I don't like the boots.

Interesting you raise that precedent...

attention certainly deviates from the fact that rick owens & damir doma for example exercise pivotal, implicit focus on devising a collection that eloquently speaks for itself & manifests a sence of personal affiliation...

where gareth feels the need to stimulate with real aggressive, provocative design; someone related it to a graduate style....

while the collection is obviously far surpassing anything a graduate is likely to accomplish, it is very reminiscent of that immature, youthful display of attention seeking. Possibly a mirror of his extrovert personality...?

also, i love all the negative reputation i'm receiving via this thread, clearly displaying an informative opinion goes against the social norms on these boards...

tossers. at least give a reason however

[juliaN.]

I don't see what's necessarily wrong about communicating via design in a more aggressive and upfront manner, if that is the mood the designer is feeling that season, or in general. If anything it points to a cohesiveness in his voice. Some designers I admire present their work in a similar thread - Miyashita, McQueen, at times Yohji as well, who all have a sense of restlessness, sometimes forceful but always distinct in their own manner of conveying the mood. Provocative is not bad, for a stage presentation such as a runway, I cannot see how the opposite is even a positive in the longer run.

Then again Pugh IS relatively young compared to most you mentioned, with the exception of Doma perhaps, and I find GP's work to be more interesting in that it challenges the viewer and the wearer in ways that aren't just packaged for quick consumption (yes, you can say Doma is more 'approachable' but everything i've seen in stores is pretty shite).

You can't expect him to have as good a grip as someone like Rick or McQueen, who have been around and explored themselves and the field for a longer time.

[Guest jhaime9]

I don't see what's necessarily wrong about communicating via design in a more aggressive and upfront manner, if that is the mood the designer is feeling that season, or in general. If anything it points to a cohesiveness in his voice. Some designers I admire present their work in a similar thread - Miyashita, McQueen, at times Yohji as well, who all have a sense of restlessness, sometimes forceful but always distinct in their own manner of conveying the mood. Provocative is not bad, for a stage presentation such as a runway, I cannot see how the opposite is even a positive in the longer run.

Then again Pugh IS relatively young compared to most you mentioned, with the exception of Doma perhaps, and I find GP's work to be more interesting in that it challenges the viewer and the wearer in ways that aren't just packaged for quick consumption (yes, you can say Doma is more 'approachable' but everything i've seen in stores is pretty shite).

You can't expect him to have as good a grip as someone like Rick or McQueen, who have been around and explored themselves and the field for a longer time.

hmm, i don't think i conveyed what i ment very well...

i guess fundamentally i'm trying to say that it's not so much about 'off-the-rail-consumption'... but more of a factor that you can't really take the majority of gareth's collection, then mix & match it together with other designers; which is basically what multi-label stores are after...too much of a contrast against the designer lines he's likely to be sat alongside in these more progressive stores...

whether that holds him back, or allows him to progress, time will only tell...

[tangerine]

...

also, i love all the negative reputation i'm receiving via this thread, clearly displaying an informative opinion goes against the social norms on these boards...

tossers. at least give a reason however

I imagine it is more your snotty attitude than the ideas you are presenting, but I can only guess, since I haven't given you any neg rep.

...

i guess fundamentally i'm trying to say that it's not so much about 'off-the-rail-consumption'... but more of a factor that you can't really take the majority of gareth's collection, then mix & match it together with other designers; which is basically what multi-label stores are after...too much of a contrast against the designer lines he's likely to be sat alongside in these more progressive stores...

Even though I said most of his work is too flashy for me to wear myself, I don't agree with this; I think that a person with a strong enough cohesive style to wear GP would be able to incorporate the pieces into outfits that utilize other designers... Rick and Damir Doma being two excellent examples.

[Liberation1945]

yo whatre you pansies screamin about...

shit is black. shit is good. shit can be mixed with other shit.

shit comes down to whether you ridin with the designer through the whole process or not...you either fucks with his vision, his presentations, his clothes on and off the runway, or you dont...you dont have to dress head to toe in a mothafuckas shit, but he aint askin you to do that he askin you to come with a motherfucka on a journey...take some bits and pieces from that journey and keep ridin like you been doin. a motherfucka aint even askin you to change your mind about the way you look at shit, he just askin you to see it through his eyes and then you do what you want with it. you dont wanna fuck with traingle embellished trenchcoats and shit then dont, if you wanna just cop a tanktop then yea do you...either you support a mothafucka or you dont, but dont disrespect his vision.

wisdom.

[Guest jhaime9]

need to...

[Guest jhaime9]

...sushhhhhhh