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Gareth Pugh Mens F/W 09.10 Paris


inaya

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This is about as weirdly feminine as you would expect Pugh's menswear to be. It's definitely not as great as his womenswear, but still a good first showing. He's laying a great foundation for future seasons. The outerwear is probably his strongest (or at least most interesting point), but that footwear is pretty great, too.

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I don't even know if he's got a financier/production laid out for this. I know that it took a few collections for him to get his womenswear produced, so who knows if he's even thinking commercial for his menswear.

I asked Mr. Owens about wearability after the show and he was like "let's not worry about that for now, this was a great presentation." I sorta agree.

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weird info you guys have. gareth's stuff is produced at olmar+mirta... rick's factory. his normal retailers will most likely pick this stuff up, plus fine menswear boutiques, surely...

Rick boutiques for one so that's already two (soon 3?) retail stores. There are other people carrying him in London. Lots of Japanese buyers at the show so there's also potential there.

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Guest jhaime9

Thanks for the info & pics Inaya;

i'm not sure he's made the transition into menswear, seriously feminine cuts, but I expected that.

However, even though i'm not feeling the sliced trousers, the diagonal leggings/trousers look seriously awesome. The coats are of exceptional design, but again the cut leans toward womens.

The strongest pieces for me are the hooded black robes/coats..

Will be interesting to see if Seven pick up this; was speaking on another thread concerning their lack of progressive menswear to tackle the boundaries over there in NYC.

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jhaime, personally I think this is not feminine... for me it's very modern and sexy for a man :)

also just an extra thought - a lot of ppl are acting like this is his first venture into menswear, when he has been doing it for years. this is just the first solo men's show he's been granted... but his work all along has mostly been either completely androgynous or a fair mix of male/female oriented pieces.

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oh yeah, "wearable", my favorite word :P

I wouldn't be so quick to write off pugh as unwearable. what you can't know from photos is that underneath the pieces with the patent leather triangle designs ... are amazingly constructed blazers/jackets/pants, etc. those triangles are sewn onto the outer layers of the piece. there are still beatifully constructed and fully lined garments under what appears to be 'unwearable' to some. it's like saying a studded belt is unwearable - when really it is just 'decorated'.

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thanks for the link minou

the stuff looks pretty interesting, somewhat architectural but still very feminine. I think those leggings would look great on the right girl. Pretty dialed down compared to his shows...

I think Pugh could do quite well in a capacity doing haute couture somewhere down the line, maybe even within the structure of an existing storied fashion house. Would like to see how he takes his vision if given such an opportunity.

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Guest jhaime9

hey Inaya; mini-project for you, define 'modern'

with respect too;

the culturally dynamic, International consumerist community Pugh is operating within, baring relevance to the multiplicity of variable norms affiliated with trans-continental menswear fashion.

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pretty heavy question jhaime, but yeah i would like to see how she interprets it as well.

i don't think this is really 'modern'...in the sense I never quite saw Rick Owens as 'modern' either. I don't know enough to give you a real eloquent answer on what 'modern' is without sounding like fluff or totally off the path, but when I see either's work it strikes me more as operating in somewhat of an other period/universe altogether. Same w/ Watanabe men's, although the references and approximate dates are a bit easier to pinpoint there.

Read that Pugh is heavily influenced by Governator's Predator ... hrm that is a curious interpretation. Haven't seen the film in a while...

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