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Real Japan Blues - Jeans & Shirts...


kiya

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Ha, those are the 2 brands I don’t have personal experience with :D

 

I’m the same as you. I don’t put stuff in it in general but I do like to put my hands in my pockets when I wait…or put some coins or keys in it for a short time when all other pockets are full or my hands are full. But with my TFH 3009 that is very unpractical. Although the left pockets is better accessible than my right front pocket :D

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I would need to go back and check, but there are at least 3 different construction/workmanship solutions out there for front pockets:

- simple (pocket lining, top stitching, occasionally seam taping)

- additional re-enforcing tape (visible, often bias cut)

- inside facing in denim

 

some of these executions have an additional effect on the actual pocket sizing and the way they can stretch.

 

another, more obvious aspect is the size of your hand.

if the jeans are made for a japanese audience I would expect smaller hands - smaller pocket openings...

Edited by Foxy2
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Whatever reason there might be - I think it's diappointing that a brand like FH that is so devoted to their stuff appearantly has unusable pockets. They are not a design gimmick, but serve a purpose. So making them too small  doesn't fit to their own standards.

 

(I'm sure that the "It's not a bug, it's a Feature"-Argument is used by die-hard fans of the brand.)

Edited by Max Power
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I echo what others are saying here - there is NO REASON IN THE WORLD not to make the front pocket openings bigger on a pair of jeans. It is an EASY CHANGE. It makes EVERYONE HAPPIER WITH YOUR PRODUCT. It gives you a leg up on ALL THE OTHER STUPID COMPANIES WHO ARE TOO MYOPIC TO MAKE A USABLE POCKET.

 

Every non-Japanese Flat Head retailer should hammer them with emails ON A DAILY BASIS until they fix this. AT THE VERY LEAST, they should make the export versions of their jeans with bigger pocket openings to promote foreign retailers and to discourage people from buying off Japanese sites. At the same time they could add four or so inches so export versions of their jeans would have a 36" inseam suitable for taller customers outside Japan. ALL EASY CHANGES, JAPAN. DO IT.

 

On a more positive note, I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions of the Rivet collab, b_F - I want a pair of those too but I'm worried that they're too tight in the knee (they measure about the same as my Nudie Thin Finns, but those are made of lighter, stretchy denim.) If I were able to actually drop by the store I'd try those on in a heartbeat - everything else looks great, measurements-wise.

Edited by Cold Summer
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On a more positive note, I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions of the Rivet collab, b_F - I want a pair of those too but I'm worried that they're too tight in the knee (they measure about the same as my Nudie Thin Finns, but those are made of lighter, stretchy denim.) If I were able to actually drop by the store I'd try those on in a heartbeat - everything else looks great, measurements-wise.

 

The left hand twill denim and loose weave is even more comfortable than I envisaged which makes the slim knee fit workable. Within a couple of wears it really softens up and relaxes around the knee.

Edited by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
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Curious. Are there any reasons that the pockets are designed so small and are there any reasons why these issues haven't been "fixed" yet if it's so easy?

Back on topic though: the rivet and hide rjb collab looks dope and I'm seriously tempted to buy a Pair even though I already have so many jeans in my life that I can't even wear on a regular basis (damn office job).

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I want to know what person really needs a 36" length after shrink inseam. 

 

...I do.  :ph34r:

 

And anyone who wants some stacks, I guess. Most stores offer hemming now, anyway. It's much easier to hem jeans that are too long than to magically conjure up additional length if they're too short, but I'm well aware of my extreme bias. I *can* get by with a 34" inseam length, but I appreciate the additional options (cuffing, stacks) I have with a longer length.

 

Good to know, Danny! The temptation remains...

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I want to know what person really needs a 36" length after shrink inseam. I have a gut feeling that most just aren't comfortable with jeans that aren't too long for them.

 

It's usually the case where people would be fine w/ a 34 length or shorter but just prefer longer for stacks and what not but also I think you'd be surprised how many people we deal with on a regular basis who actually need the length and aren't just stack enthusiasts. 

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...I do.  :ph34r:

 

And anyone who wants some stacks, I guess. Most stores offer hemming now, anyway. It's much easier to hem jeans that are too long than to magically conjure up additional length if they're too short, but I'm well aware of my extreme bias. I *can* get by with a 34" inseam length, but I appreciate the additional options (cuffing, stacks) I have with a longer length.

 

Good to know, Danny! The temptation remains...

 

 

To be honest you were the exact person I was thinking of! Iirc your 3009 fit you perfect everywhere, including inseam. And those were what 32.5-33"? And you're 6'3"... I understand that some people want stacks, or a length that i like to refer to as "too long for you" ;).

 

I think all I'm saying is that probably 95% of people do not need longer than 33" all shrunk to be getting away with it easily.

 

This is silly. Afraid to use the pockets because of fades? Pockets on pants that are too small to use? Gigantic FAIL. Jeans are made to be worn, to wear tougher, longer, dirtier.

If I have to be careful about how I wear denim, then I'm making poor functional fashion choices.

 

Discussing the stuff we like here, I'd be wary of taking the approach of calling this a "poor functional choice". An equally good, maybe better argument... "OMG!!! THOSE JEANS COST WHAT???? $300!!!! I CAN GET 30 CARHARTS!"

 

Spending ridiculous money or not caring about certain things over others because of the fades is kind of the point of this website.

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My 3009s were okay length-wise, but I went to great effort to stretch the inseam out by hand every time I washed/soaked... I hated doing that. And it didn't work all that great, either. If there's anything I learned from years of trying to make Japanese fits work for me, it's that in the long run I'm a lot happier wearing stuff that just fits me right to begin with instead of forcing it.

 

That doesn't appear to be an issue with the new Rivet collab, though, which just adds to the temptation.

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I kind of the not understand this outrage at lengths and front pockets. Very few people need more than 32" in Japan and to have anything longer, it would mean more material and higher cost over the board. Contrary to some beliefs, Japanese men have never been shortish, but 32" inseam would cover almost 99% of the populace. 

On front pockets - have you ever seen any Japanese having something stuck in them. They have a wallet in the right back pocket and phone/keys either on some keyholder/shoulderbag or some have them in the back left pocket but rarely. I have no evidence but I believe the design is intentional to force even those considering having anything in their pockets to buy any of their other products. 

 

I am not 100% sure but I believe there is a foreigner being employed at their new Jingumae shop. He looks very much as a foreigner, and if that if were the case - there is a positive step in recognizing the need to serve  the needs of non-Japan based clients 

Edited by mikkadehachikai
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I kind of the not understand this outrage at lengths and front pockets. Very few people need more than 32" in Japan and to have anything longer, it would mean more material and higher cost over the board. Contrary to some beliefs, Japanese men have never been shortish, but 32" inseam would cover almost 99% of the populace.

On front pockets - have you ever seen any Japanese having something stuck in them. They have a wallet in the right back pocket and phone/keys either on some keyholder/shoulderbag or some have them in the back left pocket but rarely. I have no evidence but I believe the design is intentional to force even those considering having anything in their pockets to buy any of their other products.

I am not 100% sure but I believe there is a foreigner being employed at their new Jingumae shop. He looks very much as a foreigner, and if that if were the case - there is a positive step in recognizing the need to serve the needs of non-Japan based clients

Why even put front pocket bags on the jeans then? Then again I'm not a fan of fake tits either.

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Whether people put stuff in their front pockets or not is irrelevant (although most people do - their phone, at least.) The biggest reason I want usable front pockets is because it should feel comfortable to put my hands in them, when I'm just standing around, or when I'm in cold weather, and so on. There is no excuse not to have functional front pockets, and saying otherwise is only justifying bad design decisions.

 

For what it's worth Flat Head and RJB usually do have bigger pocket openings on their straight fits (3005, 1005, D001, D105, etc.) 

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For cold weather, there is a wide selection of sweats, cardigans and jackets, even gloves. 

It is faux outrage for me. 

 

What really bothers me with Kobayashi's brands is the intentionally smaller sizing. How it comes a person with exact chest measurement of 40in should wear 42 or XL because of the chest only does not fit. 

And the flat head letters all over their clothing

 

What Kyle prompted me to do and I would give them in advance a call to have some sizes ready when I visit their shop because I want to try any shoes, especially the vibram sole cordovan leather boots, in size US10 or 28 if he really feels than they fit longer feet. 

Edited by mikkadehachikai
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Enough talk about the size and usability of The Flat Head’s front pockets, especially since we are in the RJB thread ;)

Although I also stand by my point of view: if there are pockets (or other features like e.g. buttons or a zipper) they should serve their intended purpose.

 

My first impressions after one day of wear: this is a very unique pair of jeans! It’s one of my few LHT denim jeans and because of the weave and texture I expect a lot of vertical fading.

Kyle’s worry about the slim knees is eligible but as Danny already said, due to the nature of the LHT denim and the Zimbabwe cotton it works as the denim stretches. The top block is very generous and allows for movement. The cut through the legs is hugging but not in a uncomfortable way. It’s just something I have to get used to again.

 

I haven’t decided yet if I gonna do a lengthy review of these. I have to finish my current review first.

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