Ande Whall Denim

[gregornz]

Go Andy and the All Blacks!

I'm not close to the comp list, but wish you guys all the denim-destroying best!

Mmmm, flying jeans....

[dawei69]

size charts for the new models have been updated on ande's site! everyone check them out!

little bit concerned about high rise with the new models... personally prefer the old low-mid rise on the old grifter models

[robotbox]

So do we go by the final list from the last contest? Or start a new one? With all the interest it might turn into bedlam on here. I would love to be in, but understand this needs to be somewhat democratic. Robotbox...do you want to serve as the gate keeper on this? You and the others did a bang up job on the last contest.

I'll gladly handle organizational duties if it comes to that, but for now I think we should all just chill and wait for final word from Ande. No use getting riled up and doing a lot of work unless its needed.

[andewhall]

Yeah I have cut the slimmer models with 1/2" longer rise. When you go from pattern to made up jeans, measurements do change slightly. The weft gets slightly smaller that the pattern width, which includes the waist and the warp gets slightly longer. On the old models I did account for this on the size charts, but the new ones are probably ever more accurate, well as close as you can with fabric and 1/8's of inches. I did cut the patterns larger than previous also, so they are more true to size relative to the 95% jeans world of oversizeness.

size charts for the new models have been updated on ande's site! everyone check them out!

little bit concerned about high rise with the new models... personally prefer the old low-mid rise on the old grifter models

[andewhall]

Hey guys. So I think the majority of original contest guys are keen, so it's probably best to start a new list instead of just opening it up on the webstore, what do you guys think? Some may want to pull out, knee deep in jawns already etc, haha.

[smittybat]

I'm going to pass on the contest jeans, but I'll be buying a regular pair once you start producing them. I've got too many pairs to wear right now and somebody who'll wear the hell of them is better than me taking a pair right now.

[Gold Soaked Afternoon]

Yeah, i sadly have to pass at this point too. Definitely interested in a pair sometime down the line though!

[robotbox]

I'll work on an updated list later today and post it on here

[andewhall]

Sweeet, cheers Robotbox and thanks Smitty and Gold Soaked for replying. I'm getting excited for this, can't wait to start cutting denim with the new 12" super sharp shears.

[reallypeacedoff]

Just wondering if the Cobra will go any higher in sizing? I'm thinking I'd need to be a 33 if the waist will be indeed 34"...

[robotbox]

Okay dudes, here's the list, and a few notes:

This is echoing what I said the first time around, but I would like to urge everyone on the list to really consider their commitment. I think we all want a good quality contest, full of people really putting forth the time to beat up their jeans and provide solid updates. If you think you will be rotating between 5 pairs of jeans and getting no fades, no one's going to want to see that. If you think you will rarely post updates, that's no fun either. Not that I have any authority here, just my two cents...

So, on to the list. I've given preference to people on the original contest list. People with an asterisk next to their names were not on the original list, and may be bumped off if more of the original participants commit. Hopefully it won't come to that, but I think its only fair to the original folks.

1. Robotbox

2. theotherchrislewis

3. dawei69

4. sbreslin

5. grooveholmes

6. Festival

7. nietenhosen

8. Noodle36

9. Mdkt07

10. Cents or non cents (dependent on sizing?)

11. Noodle36

12. kit99bar*

13. niix*

14. ukeno*

15. ADH92*

16.

17.

18.

[UkeNo]

Thanks Robotbox.

Just to Confirm - I'm Still In if I can stay in the top 18/20.

Cant Wait.

Thanks

[robotbox]

Thanks Robotbox.

Just to Confirm - I'm Still In if I can stay in the top 18/20.

Cant Wait.

Thanks

Yep. You're good unless previous contestants bump you off

[dawei69]

On the website, it says the jeans will be handmade by justin. Anyone know who Justin is? Ande's apprentice?

Just wondering will the jeans have the juice selvage details like the deluxe models?

[theotherchrislewis]

I think it says the patch is made by Justin.

[poly800rock]

so bummed i'm gonna miss this, but i'll save up for a new production pair when he begins.

[blackmaged]

Is the Return contest using the original contest denim or the special roll denim?

[robotbox]

Is the Return contest using the original contest denim or the special roll denim?

Definitely not the contest roll, that was lost in the quake. I'm fairly sure this is an entirely new denim. None of the samples Ande showed us last time around were 13.5oz

[Noodle36]

I thought his original deluxe model was 14.5oz. When he started to offer the three diff kinds (dlx, indigo & black) with the standard indigo and black having less detail (minus the rope lined hem & belt loops etc) is when he went to the 13.5oz. Again, I may and probably am wrong, but based on the fact he said he had a roll; i would assume it was something he was using already. The washed samples up on the site look similar to his previous stuff. Either way, he gets great stuff. I hope in the future he does a Cone Denim run again! Or an unsanforized! With these new Lee-esque details I may be getting a few pairs.

[theotherchrislewis]

Im pretty sure it's the same 13.5oz denim that he was offering along with the 14.5oz and 15.5oz through his regular shop.

Here's a small quote from some emails we exchanged:

".......as I have just one roll of the 13.5oz Zimbabwe cotton selvage....... so I could start to import more denim and get fully rolling again....."

[robotbox]

whoops, forgot about the other old models. I was just thinking in terms of the contest denim samples. I had the DLX 14.5 oz and completely forgot about everything else. Yeah, you guys are probably correct

[d4nvu]

im innnnnnnnnn

[robotbox]

1. Robotbox

2. theotherchrislewis

3. dawei69

4. sbreslin

5. grooveholmes

6. Festival

7. nietenhosen

8. Noodle36

9. Mdkt07

10. Cents or non cents

11. Noodle36

12. kit99bar*

13. niix*

14. ukeno*

15. adh94*

16. d4nvu

17.

18.

[andewhall]

Thanks heaps RobotB, good work fella.

Yeah it's the original 13.5oz Indigo denim, Zimbabwe cotton. It was always my favorite, although I have been wearing the 15.5oz for the last year. The 13.5 is awesome, it seems heavier than it's listed weight and just a good interesting rough weave, crispy denim. I can't remember everything about that contest denim now, it was two rolls, I think 14oz natural indigo with a plain white selvage?

[andewhall]

A few machine photos. The Singer bar tack is still at the shop, hope she's gonna make it. A mate from fashion school put me onto this new mechanic, he works at the pub round the corner and saw him on sunday. He tells me the mechanic is really good, but sometimes takes a while. Put my mind a ease a bit.

The new/old Durkopp keyholer. Pretty much the same as the old one, just a different belt set up. When I picked it up it was a filthy pile of bits in boxes.

[andewhall]

It's got a couple of Reece parts on it, which is funny. It was a struggle back in the day to get stuff imported to NZ, shipping would take ages, so I bet someone just poached these old parts off a Reece to save time.

[andewhall]

I soon realized after the first button hole was stitched it had a cam for a straight buttonhole. I cool guy in Auckland that makes suits managed to get me one from his supplier, good man! He has three of these old Durkopps. The interchangable cams are the round things in the pic's

[cheapmuthafukr]

man, this would be awesome to be a part of... how much are the jeans gonna cost?

its been years since i had some andes... its something i always wanted to get again.

[andewhall]

More pic's of machines/workshop. The smaller garage workshop 'aint pretty but it works, haha.

Trusty single needle plain sewer with a large hook, big bobbin to take heavy thread.

Big bobbin and casing.

I use a couple of guide feet, one for the inseam top stitching and one for the waistband. Everything else is freehand.

Contest watch pockets ready to go.

[andewhall]

Good oldish overlocker. Tuned up to handle denim and with a wider throw.

Painted up the frame, fixed up the lifter pedal and grip taped.

Can't do without an air compressor, the best thing ever for cleaning old oil, thread fluff and crap out of sewing machines.