Stronghold Denim

[rnrswitch]

Got my hickory stripes for christmas. Must say that I thought the wash would turn me off to them, but the wash is subtle and the jeans are very comfortable. Very pleased with these.

I was also told by my mother that whoever helped her was very nice and helpful and even threw some accessories in for free... Big ups to the stronghold crew.

Just one thing I have found about the design/fit of the jeans is the buttons on the fly are placed slightly awkward and make it somewhat difficult to button quickly.

I will post fit pics of these bad boys. They are the perfect compliment to my denim collection.

[tmadd]

I was trying to find the answer in this thread, as I am sure it has come up, but I could find anything; How custom are custom jeans by Stronghold? Is it just custom in terms of waist, inseam, and certain smaller details, or are we talking completely custom/bespoke cuts?

Also, I am going to be in LA this weekend and am definitely planning on hitting Stronghold...Bill, what days are you working this weekend?

[dino might]

im pretty sure they do complete bespoke pairs for around 600 usd

[theetruscan]

Is it just custom in terms of waist, inseam, and certain smaller details, or are we talking completely custom/bespoke cuts?

My understanding from talking to Bill was that it was in line with MTM. It didn't sound like bespoke, though I could be wrong, but they'll do it from a pair of sent in jeans, so I think MTM is a good way to think of it.

[dino might]

clarification on "MTM"?

[Thorns]

Made to Measure... generally used in terms of 'custom' suits. They measure you and adjust a pattern to fit your body.

Bespoke... they measure you and MAKE a pattern to fit your body.

I'm not entirely sure how this applies to jeans.

[Bill2]

Hey guys,

To Clarify:

Our custom denim can be done a few different ways, and at slightly different price points.

1.) We can do "one of a kind" pairs at $385*. These will use one of our stock patterns, but will be put together uniquely for the customer, (i.e. Fabric, Stitching, Rivet finish)

2.) At $485* we can do "one of a kind" jeans, but with the addition of customizing a pattern to suit your needs. This custom pattern can either come from scratch, which requires an appointment with our pattern maker, or can be derived from our existing patterns if only moderate changes are necessary. At this pricepoint we also offer our cloning program, in which the pattern will be taken off an existing pair of trousers provided by the customer.

* = Prices listed above are for our "standard" fabric offerings, which number about a dozen. Organic Cottons and Natural Indigo/Botanical Dyes are more and priced between $600 and $1100

The differences in terminology between Made to Measure and Bespoke are beyond me to be quite honest, and is probably an argument better left to those with more custom Sartorial experience.

Tmadd- I am out of the store on family leave for the next two weeks. Brittany will be running things for me while I am gone, and is fully capable of showing you the line. You may want to call ahead and see if Michael Paradise will be there when you plan on coming. In addition to being the owner, he is the designer, and can probably impart more knowledge on the whole Custom process even better than I! Just let him and Brit know that you've been speaking to me on SuFu and you'll be sure to leave well informed and well fitted!

-B

[beatle]

Wow - if I was John Malkovich - I'd be so up for door number 2....LOL

[photo]

Beatle did you ever put up full shots of your Hickories? If I am missing them mind pointing me in the right direction?

[beatle]

I've only gotten around to posting 2 crappy pics..still waiting for a sunny day and selftimer conditions..sorry...

[tmadd]

Hey guys,

To Clarify:

Our custom denim can be done a few different ways, and at slightly different price points.

1.) We can do "one of a kind" pairs at $385*. These will use one of our stock patterns, but will be put together uniquely for the customer, (i.e. Fabric, Stitching, Rivet finish)

2.) At $485* we can do "one of a kind" jeans, but with the addition of customizing a pattern to suit your needs. This custom pattern can either come from scratch, which requires an appointment with our pattern maker, or can be derived from our existing patterns if only moderate changes are necessary. At this pricepoint we also offer our cloning program, in which the pattern will be taken off an existing pair of trousers provided by the customer.

* = Prices listed above are for our "standard" fabric offerings, which number about a dozen. Organic Cottons and Natural Indigo/Botanical Dyes are more and priced between $600 and $1100

The differences in terminology between Made to Measure and Bespoke are beyond me to be quite honest, and is probably an argument better left to those with more custom Sartorial experience.

Tmadd- I am out of the store on family leave for the next two weeks. Brittany will be running things for me while I am gone, and is fully capable of showing you the line. You may want to call ahead and see if Michael Paradise will be there when you plan on coming. In addition to being the owner, he is the designer, and can probably impart more knowledge on the whole Custom process even better than I! Just let him and Brit know that you've been speaking to me on SuFu and you'll be sure to leave well informed and well fitted!

-B

Thanks a lot for the thorough and great answer. I am excited about finally getting to check out the store, and am sure I will leave very well informed. Also, I am sure I will be returning relatively soon!

[theetruscan]

2.) At $485* we can do "one of a kind" jeans, but with the addition of customizing a pattern to suit your needs. This custom pattern can either come from scratch, which requires an appointment with our pattern maker, or can be derived from our existing patterns if only moderate changes are necessary. At this pricepoint we also offer our cloning program, in which the pattern will be taken off an existing pair of trousers provided by the customer.

The differences in terminology between Made to Measure and Bespoke are beyond me to be quite honest, and is probably an argument better left to those with more custom Sartorial experience.

The key is between altering a stock pattern and making a unique pattern for a customer. Made to Measure clothing will have an altered version of the stock pattern (not usually kept, just with known measurements) and bespoke will have a pattern specific to the customer. Usually, because of the additional customization, bespoke involves more fittings.

[Bill2]

The key is between altering a stock pattern and making a unique pattern for a customer. Made to Measure clothing will have an altered version of the stock pattern (not usually kept, just with known measurements) and bespoke will have a pattern specific to the customer. Usually, because of the additional customization, bespoke involves more fittings.

I would imagine then that we fit squarely in the Made to Measure catagory. However, your description begs the question: How much alteration of stock pattern is needed before it would be catagorized as a pattern specific to the customer? My guess is that the difference between MTM and Bespoke is much less when talking about jean patterns than when discussing mens suiting. Suits have much more complex construction, and many more measurements that go into a pattern (i.e. lapel width, arm hole height etc.....). Jean construction is much more simple. The patterns are pretty static with the exception of proportion.....

Nonetheless, Truscan, thanks for your expertise! You will be high on the list for info when I make the foray into fine mens suiting. One of these days I'll be going somewhere non-denim appropriate!

[indigo_junkie]

Herringbone pics!! Shown with White's Semi Dress in Distressed Roughout.

These are our StovePipe fit, and are the baggiest of the bunch, with a buckleback. The classic is just a hair slimmer in the leg, higher in rise, and without a bucklback. Measurements to follow, still accumulating them from the actual patterns.

Whatever happened to this? Are there plans to go ahead with it?

[pikler]

I'm wondering the same thing!

[Bill2]

Yes! Herringbone is still happening! There have been financial, logistical, and personal tie-ups (my family leave of absence from the store for all of Jan.!) that has put this one hold.

It is still happening, time frame to be determined by mid feb. Apologies to those eagerly awaiting these. Didn't mean to be a Herringbone-cock-tease!

[cloudhands69]

Bump!

I went through this thread but couldn't find any measurement info.

How many cuts does stronghold offer?

-stovepipe

-classic

-slim

-??

measurements for each cut would be nice.

[Bill2]

Bump!

I went through this thread but couldn't find any measurement info.

How many cuts does stronghold offer?

-stovepipe

-classic

-slim

-??

measurements for each cut would be nice.

St. Leg: Our 501 equivalent, but with a slightly lower rise

Classic: Our 50's sillouette. Higher Rise and fuller leg

Stove Pipe: Our Heratige fit. Big and wide, buckle back

Utility: Based on the Classic platform, is our WWII army utility pant. Patch Pockets

Slim: Our St. Leg but with a slimmer hem; tapered.

Bootcut: A very thoughtfully designed bootcut. Visible selvage all the way down, but without the bowlegged look of straight outseamed Bootcuts.

I'll get proper measurements on monday from our tailor!

[ThyAllMighty]

I went to Stronghold last week or so and I got to meet Micheal, he is a great guy and we had a nice time talking about denim. It was really refreshing since I never get to spit denim with anyone. That flame weave denim is amazing.

Bill, are those 13oz straight legs in yet? Also, are there any size 30s left? Thanks.

[Bill2]

I went to Stronghold last week or so and I got to meet Micheal, he is a great guy and we had a nice time talking about denim. It was really refreshing since I never get to spit denim with anyone. That flame weave denim is amazing.

Bill, are those 13oz straight legs in yet? Also, are there any size 30s left? Thanks.

Damn right they're in!! And Michael set aside the only size 30 from the run for you. They are here!

[nattomoto]

What is the 13oz denim? Pics please!

[Bill2]

What is the 13oz denim? Pics please!

Just got home, I'll take some pics tomorrow. The 13oz denim is our standard heavy weight fabric. Looks very similar to the fabric of the slim's we made for Context, but is heavier weight.

[nattomoto]

Damn you Bill! I already have a constant puddle under me from salivating while I wait for the Herringbone. And now you tempt me with that.

Are they raw? Can you give me measurements on a size that might fit me? How much are they?

[superBobo]

any pics of the Utility? sounds very interesting.

[Bill2]

Pictures!!

Bobo: You first! Here are the Utility pant. They are based on the WWII utility given to enlisted men for work duty around base. Shown here One Wash. NOTE: There is a special run of this pant being made as we speak, in RAW HICKORY!! There will be only five pair produced, sizing is limited!! They are due back from the tailor next week! Who wants 'em?

And here are some pics of the 13oz. Straight legs. Shown Raw, and worn in by Michael Cassel. Mikey's jeans are at about 1.5 years and 5 washes. They were in shop for repairs.

[Denim Phenom]

I have a pair of Strongholds but I think the inseam is too short. I had them hemmed by a local tailer and she sewed the original hem back on. I'm not sure if they are long enough to get chainstitched and still be long enough.

I'm going to stop by the Stronghold store on 15th or 16th of February. I'm surprised that I like those utility jeans because of the exposed front pocket. What's the price and measurements on them? I like the straight leg as well.

Either way, i'll be to the shop then.

[indigo_junkie]

Are those Michael Cassel jeans the same size as the raw pair? If so, looks like it's definitely shrunk from raw.

[Bill2]

I have a pair of Strongholds but I think the inseam is too short. I had them hemmed by a local tailer and she sewed the original hem back on. I'm not sure if they are long enough to get chainstitched and still be long enough.

I'm going to stop by the Stronghold store on 15th or 16th of February. I'm surprised that I like those utility jeans because of the exposed front pocket. What's the price and measurements on them? I like the straight leg as well.

Either way, i'll be to the shop then.

What size are you? I'll take some measurements. They are $285

[Denim Phenom]

What size are you? I'll take some measurements. They are $285

I wear 30s in Samurai S5000s and a 31 in One Wash Sugar Cane 1947. I like a longer inseam like 34 so that I can roll them.

Thanks Bill.

[jake431]

Bill, any chance for fit pics of those utility pants?

-Jake