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I am unsure if I should get the SL or ST. I am 5'10" about 165 pounds. My true waist is 32". My calfs are 14 and thighs are 22. I am trying to put on some muscle though. I want the fit to be slim, but not extremely tight throughout. I was thinking about sizing down 2 and getting the SL-100x size 30. COuld i get some advice really quick? I am trying to get them by christmas.

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I am unsure if I should get the SL or ST. I am 5'10" about 165 pounds. My true waist is 32". My calfs are 14 and thighs are 22. I am trying to put on some muscle though. I want the fit to be slim, but not extremely tight throughout. I was thinking about sizing down 2 and getting the SL-100x size 30. COuld i get some advice really quick? I am trying to get them by christmas.

The SL is not a big cut by any means; if you have concerns at the thigh and calf area I would go with the SL over the ST. If your true waist is 32" then go with the 30's as they start out at 31" and will eventually stretch to 32. If you receive the jeans and cannot button them up, you'll need to swap them for a 31.

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Listen to ajchen's advice. My measurements are pretty similar (5'9", 155lbs, 32" true waist, 22" thigh), and I wear a 30 in both the SL and ST cuts. It's only a matter of deciding between the SL and ST.

awesome. thanks. which would you recommend. I like the tapered look I just don't want them too tight. are the st's really tight?

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awesome. thanks. which would you recommend. I like the tapered look I just don't want them too tight. are the st's really tight?

The ST's are quite lean in the thigh and have a slightly smaller leg opening. take a look at the measurements and choose the one that's best for you; i will reiterate, the SL is not a big and baggy cut at all. i think you'll be happy with their slimness.

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aside from all the obvious differences in terms of types of cotton used, dyeing methods and the way the fabric itself is woven, the pbj-007 denim is indigo/indigo. the momotaro grand indigo is similar to the 120x in that it's indigo warp/black weft. other than that, the fabrics are very different. 120x is sanforized, slightly lighter in weight and has the characteristic open-ended weft yarn that yields an extremely soft hand on the inside that is present on all of our denim.

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should i expect any loss of length with a hot soak? i'm contemplating a hem and figure i'll do it and see what happens.

or i may just say fuck it and wear them as is because i really don't want to send them off.

On a hot soak, you may lose 0.5" at most, so if you want to get them hemmed just leave a little extra room. But if you don't need to hot soak them, leave them alone; the jeans honestly don't need it.

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sweet, thanks. based on my initial fit, do you think the legs will settle and look wonky over that double cuff or should i just chill the fuck out?

I say just leave it alone and wear it for awhile; since you have to ship them out to get them hemmed, you can do that at any time; if the length bothers you a month later you can always get them hemmed then.

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Just received my SL100's direct from 3sixteen and starting wearing them on Christmas Eve. Sized down one to a w33 and they have stretched out nicely to a great fit now. I have had a wide variety of the 'higher' end Japanese denims, Samurai, Warehouse, Fullcount, Eternal but I have got to say these are by far the best fit I have had in a long while. A good slim straight cut.

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What's the difference between ST-210X and ST-200X? I know the ST means slim tapered model but what is the difference in numbers after that?

Here is the breakdown on our model nomenclature:

SL/ST refers to cut (SL = Straight Leg, ST = Slim Tapered)

100x = Raw Indigo Selvedge

120x = Indigo / Black Selvedge

200x = Raw Black Selvedge

211 = Overdyed Black

220x = Double Black Selvedge

300 = Raw Grey

x denotes selvedge.

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picked up a pair of the st-200x from the great folks at woodlands. man, i must say the fit was ON POINT from the first moment i slipped them on. i couldn't be happier - the denim has a nice slub and weight to it, and the cut is slim in all the right ways. thought i would have to take 'em in for a hemming, but the taper and narrow leg opening already make for a really nice, clean cuff.

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x-post from waywt:

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going to be my go-to jean this year, for sure.

Edited by mapz
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After much procrastination here's my six month update on the 3sixteen+ 21BSP. I hope these shots do the denim and jeans enough justice.

Angles and such

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Fit pics

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I hope these photos give people an idea of the fit. now with the changes in measurements on the second batch, I can't recommend these enough.

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I got my friend a pair of SL-100X for Christmas. Here are my impressions:

- The denim is simply amazing. I can't believe how soft yet solid it is. I've never felt raw jeans that were so soft and comfortable from the start.

- The fit is terrific - it's the perfect sweet spot between skinny and straight. Not too loose or too tight anywhere.

- I love how the inseam is finished with no stitching inside the leg. I don't know what this is called, but I've never seen it on any other jeans (not even my nice Japanese ones) and it's really an impressive and slick-looking detail.

- The inseam is really long - my friend is not tall, but I am (6'3"), so I appreciate companies that make stuff with tall people in mind.

- Great details. Two back belt loops is a great idea. I love the selvage fly. Buttons look great. Extra stitching on the back pockets and yoke looks distinctive.

Minor quibbles:

- The back pockets are huge - I wear a Red Moon long wallet, not exactly "small," and the pockets on these jeans pretty much swallow it up. My friend doesn't keep his wallet in the back pocket so it's no problem for him, but this is one thing that's a potential deal-breaker for me.

- Back pocket rivets would be nice to have.

- The front pockets felt a little small to me. Maybe I've just been spoiled by the deep ones on my PBJs, but a little more room certainly couldn't hurt.

Overall, I'd give these jeans a 9/10. My friend is really getting spoiled for his first pair of raw denim when most of us started out on Nudies or APC that aren't nearly this nice!

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@cold summer: Thanks for the feedback. What you're referring to on the inseam is what's called a felled seam; it's a more modern, clean looking technique that you might find on the inside of some of your better shirts. most japanese companies opt to go with the traditional overlock seam because that's the way jeans used to be constructed and they want to remain true to that; we just like the felled seam detail.

@clayton: those 21bsp's look great - the best part about it is that they're just getting started. keep beating them up and you'll start to see some really impressive color variation and depth in the denim as it continues to age.

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got my sl100s today. this is some nice-ass denim. i went TTS with a 32 and am on the fence whether to keep them or try a 31. these are snug-ish. love the way they look but not sure how they'll stretch. right now they're not too tight nor too loose, really. i can fit my thumb in the side of the waistband.

opinions appreciated.

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Perfect fit dude! More update pics please.

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