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Sugar Cane Denim

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2 hours ago, Broark said:

@dawei94 you can watch it here, however I don't know any Japanese so I'm not much help on the specifics.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPaq_hmjCXF/

FYI.. guy on the left from Toyo is a literal genius when it comes to pattern making.  He's been Toyo's in-house pattern maker for almost 20 years and his knowledge of fits and sewing details is out of this world.   

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29 minutes ago, kiya said:

FYI.. guy on the left from Toyo is a literal genius when it comes to pattern making.  He's been Toyo's in-house pattern maker for almost 20 years and his knowledge of fits and sewing details is out of this world.   

Will Self Edge be carrying the 1955Z?

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6 hours ago, dawei94 said:

Will Self Edge be carrying the 1955Z?

Yes, definitely!  Those land at all stores in November.

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1 hour ago, kiya said:

Yes, definitely!  Those land at all stores in November.

Awesome! Do you know how these compare to the old 1955 model that was discontinued in terms of the denim, details, etc.?

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9 hours ago, dawei94 said:

Awesome! Do you know how these compare to the old 1955 model that was discontinued in terms of the denim, details, etc.?

Yes... they will now be made in Japan (better stitch quality!), will no longer come with the box and 1955 newspaper reproduction, and the zipper is a reproduction made specially for Toyo (as opposed to using deadstock zippers).

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1 hour ago, kiya said:

Yes... they will now be made in Japan (better stitch quality!), will no longer come with the box and 1955 newspaper reproduction, and the zipper is a reproduction made specially for Toyo (as opposed to using deadstock zippers).

Nice, sounds like an upgrade all around. Is it the same denim and they're just bringing it back into production, or a different denim?

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Previous denim a was old stock MiUSA, prob. White Oak (?); new denim is MiJ, prob. Nihon Menpu (& I’ve never noticed any difference in construction quality between SC MiUSA and MiJ…)

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Previous denim a was old stock MiUSA, prob. White Oak (?); new denim is MiJ, prob. Nihon Menpu (& I’ve never noticed any difference in construction quality between SC MiUSA and MiJ…)

I feel that MiUSA and MiJ construction quality have very little in common.  From the machines being used at the factories to the tolerances, there is a fairly different look and feel between jeans sewn in a (good) Japanese factory and a (very good) American one.

Edited by kiya

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Posted (edited)

Def. agree that the construction has a very different feel to it—but I wouldn’t have an easy time trying to make a direct comparison on quality

I will say that I really don’t like how wide the busted outseams are on the SC MiUSA

Edited by julian-wolf

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43 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Previous denim a was old stock MiUSA, prob. White Oak (?); new denim is MiJ, prob. Nihon Menpu (& I’ve never noticed any difference in construction quality between SC MiUSA and MiJ…)

I thought the old 1955 denim was made in Japan for Sugar Cane as well? It was highlighted as being pretty special (I don't remember the exact wording anymore) in the SEXSC02 collab description, which used the same denim

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Posted (edited)

The 2955 was MiJ; the 1955 was MiUSA

edit: Could be misremembering all this? Gonna do some research…it’s been a few years

Edited by julian-wolf

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1 minute ago, julian-wolf said:

The 2955 was MiJ; the 1955 was MiUSA

There were two different versions? I'm talking about the one that came in a box with a reproduction newspaper

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Maybe I’m mixing up the ‘55 and the ‘66

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1 hour ago, kiya said:

I feel that MiUSA and MiJ construction quality have very little in common.  From the machines being used at the factories to the tolerances, there is a fairly different look and feel between jeans sewn in a (good) Japanese factory and a (very good) American one.

Would you have time to elaborate on this a little? Thanks.

Which construction quality is superior? I am inclined to think the MiJ but I am wrong most of the time.

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1 hour ago, Pedro said:

Would you have time to elaborate on this a little? Thanks.

Which construction quality is superior? I am inclined to think the MiJ but I am wrong most of the time.

In terms of sewing tolerances and ability to reproduce exact stitch styles Japan wins on every count.  Not to mention if things like wide hem-lines (due to incorrect folding attachments) or busted outseams which are pulled out too far drive you crazy then you'll probably want to stick to jeans which are made in Japan.

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All this talk about the old and new 1955s got me searching for a pair again.
Won an auction for a pair in my size today, maybe will need to redo the hem as they've been hemmed using a lockstitch, but the length should be fine.
Now the wait shall begin :D 

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My size 36 1955s are a bit baggy in the hips / thighs, even after a soak. I'm doing a second soak in hotter water, but if it still ends up being too big, anyone interested in buying them? They are unworn, as they have been sitting in a box for the last 6-7 years since I bought them from a Japanese store and I just soaked for the first time yesterday. 

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27 minutes ago, dawei94 said:

My size 36 1955s are a bit baggy in the hips / thighs, even after a soak. I'm doing a second soak in hotter water, but if it still ends up being too big, anyone interested in buying them? They are unworn, as they have been sitting in a box for the last 6-7 years since I bought them from a Japanese store and I just soaked for the first time yesterday. 

Wow how much are looking for them?

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Two 501Z repros, both 50s fits from the tag. Vastly different fits and denims. Canes are much more grainy, lvcs are softer and more hairy. Caned are straight and on the wider side, lvcs are tapered and way more fitted.. 

IMG_20210611_180836.jpg

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2 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Somehow this happened...

SC41201 Awa Ai, 13oz neppy denim with tonal stitching.

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Indigo dyed leather patch
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Love the fabric of the pockets

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Size 33x32

(Raw)
Waist: 35.5"
Front Rise: 12.5"
Back Rise: 16"
Thighs: 13"
Knee: 9.25"
Leg opening: 7.9"
Inseam: 33.75"

Nice. How's the cut/fit compare to the edo's for you? I know they're technically the same but ya know... 

And where'd you pick them up raw?

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I bought from Naoki at Pants Shop Avenue. 

They have just been through a wash so I can tell you more later. Based on the numbers they will fit the same but I sized these 1 down compared to the Edo Ai (although a 33 would been better in those as well).

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Great fit, length & all

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Thanks Julian. Although it's one of those dreaded "relaxed tapered" I really enjoy this new SC fit. It's not too extreme 

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Yeah, if it was bigger in the thighs I’d be tempted—I do miss having a more tapered cut in rotation, now that the R01 are mostly retired

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What a find!  Can't believe those are from 13 years ago.. I still love that Toyo "Sun Stripe" fabric we used for the pocket bags and the super narrow busted outseam.

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15 hours ago, kiya said:

What a find!  Can't believe those are from 13 years ago.. I still love that Toyo "Sun Stripe" fabric we used for the pocket bags and the super narrow busted outseam.

My first thought was "What a find!" too.

My first time in the SESF store was when these dropped, didn't have my size at the time.

How's a 34 measure?

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