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Sugar Cane Denim

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I now realize my over 40-year love affair with Levis was merely a schoolboy crush. I never actually knew Love until I was introduced to SC.

Does anyone know if a photo collection has been assembled (and posted) of all the various buttons & patches over the years of SC?

 

Edited by Pedro

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Don't think I've seen any compendium of that sort, but if you're gonna include all of the weird Fiction Romance trousers like the above the list's gonna get long fast…

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Should I delete it?

I was not aware of this F&R until you mentioned it just now. 

Thanks for the heads-up.

EDIT: Deleted the photos.

Anyone have any photos of 

M41102

M41104

M41106

Thanks

Edited by Pedro

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@Double 0 Soul

Thank you for such a thorough response with links. I am surprised a bit because I thought the 10-oz denim would have faded much more. I do like the double knee on the Lot 104 and especially that it is double all the way up to the waist instead of stopped at the thigh since the fabric always wears out just above that. 

It is quite a frustration for me to peruse Yahoo-JP because of my hefty waist. The few times I did find a 34W or 36W, they were hemmed to a 24" inseam.

Question: Does anyone foresee denim "Manpris" ever coming into style?

Edited by Pedro

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9 hours ago, Pedro said:

@Double 0 Soul

Thank you for such a thorough response with links. I am surprised a bit because I thought the 10-oz denim would have faded much more.

No probs,

They're actually nos, the 'fading' is SC's vintage processing (hard-washed) its just a more vintage/less contrasty fade on these 10oz wide leg cuts.

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9 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

No probs,

They're actually nos, the 'fading' is SC's vintage processing (hard-washed) its just a more vintage/less contrasty fade on these 10oz wide leg cuts.

Thank you. 

I do not quite understand what you describe by “more vintage/less contrasty fade”. 

Is it a different dying technique (not rope dyed) or is the dye a different type? How is the difference achieved?

Will they eventually fade like this one from an early vintage and also a lighter weight denim in your opinion/experience?

98CE2F1B-1CEF-4F2A-A89E-77B3A2780C20.jpeg

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All jeans start life in a raw state, most denim-heads will either buy denim 'raw' or in 'one-wash' state, ie- raw denim that has been washed once to get the majority of the shrink out so the wear will be 'your own' the fading will fit to your body shape and the jeans will look natural.
Some manufacturers offer pre-distressing where the jeans have been given the artificial appearance of wear, this looks very false although some are better at achieving the results that others.
For instance those^ carpenter pants were sold as 'hard-wash'  the whiskering you see is 'pre-distressing' along with the faded areas to the front and back, then somebody has washed them extensively ever since removing most of the indigo.
SC used to offer...Raw, One wash & Hard Wash, then around 2008 they started to offer jeans in accordance with 1yr wear (hard-wash) 5yr wear (extensive whiskering/combs) and 10yr wear (patched holes) all of which, distressed prior to sale, this kind of nonsense is generally frowned upon here but there is a market for it in the wider world..
If you compare true 'vintage' denim to the denim in our evo threads you will notice that generally speaking vintage denim has much less contrast when comparred to what folks like to acheive nowadays...the reasons for which are numerous.
 
Edit- It might have been 1yr, 3yr & 5yr, i can't quite remember..
Edited by Double 0 Soul

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Ah, so the pair of deeply faded denim I attached above was factory distressed? I didn't even think of that possibility. I have never understood the consumer desire to buy pre-distressed anything. 

I may try my luck buying one of those Lot "104" from Yahoo that you linked to. Do you think that the denim material and dye of a NOS "104" will be similar to the pair that was pre-distressed IF they were both in Raw condition? I hope that question makes sense. 

I wonder if similar results can be achieved on a Lot "104" through wearing them or if the denim is dissimilar?

Thanks

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...

Edited by Pedro

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10 hours ago, Pedro said:

Ah, so the pair of deeply faded denim I attached above was factory distressed? I didn't even think of that possibility.

Do you think that the denim material and dye of a NOS "104" will be similar to the pair that was pre-distressed IF they were both in Raw condition? I hope that question makes sense. 

I wonder if similar results can be achieved on a Lot "104" through wearing them or if the denim is dissimilar?

Thanks

I'm afraid so, look at the front it just screams 'pre-distressed'

il_fullxfull.1897633466_fbb4

Hmm, i doubt it, the M41104 are 10oz denim from the 90's, those carpenter pants are an 11oz denim from c2004

If you want to acheive a similar wear pattern to those carpenter pants you would have to wear them hard for 6-12months without washing and then hot wash regularly thereafter (maybe chuck a few scoops of pumice in the washing machine for good measure) personally i think they look awful, but your jeans, your choice.

I'm of the mindset that nice fades tend to result from not giving too much of a shit, just wear them hard and whatever will be, will be, i can guarantee the results will be much better than that^

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Thank you for another highly informative response. I thought I knew how to spot fake fades but obviously not. All these years I have wondered how guys get washed out fades but with no blowouts at high friction areas or dirt/oil stains. By the time my own denim britches reach the level of faded indigo in the carpenter pants above, they have made many trips to my favorite BKK street seamstress for repair (attached photo). 

The reason I am interested in the lightweight Lot “104” is because I spend about 1/2 of each year in the tropics of SE Asia. I always wore LVC ‘33 & ‘37 and also 201’s   but they are too pricey these days to replace so I rely heavily on Dickies painter pants in the natural color (similar loose fit and lightweight). The only problem is I miss actual denim and well-earned stages of fade.

I thought these early 102, 104, 106 may be the solution. 

Sidenote: I always had fade envy for the motorbike taxi drivers around BKK but since reading your post I now recognize those guys have fake fade patterns. I had always thought it was the result of constant exposure to the Rainy Season and sun.

I think I will buy a Lot “104” and see how they age. I spend alot of time crawling around while performing inspections and I like how the double layer of fabric extends all the way to the waist. The early ‘80 Patagonia used to do that. 

 

IMG_1133.JPG

Edited by Pedro

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Example of early Patagonia Double Front extending to the waist rather than the common double knee stopping mid-thigh  (a useless design). The Lot “104” is quite similar. 

613C2F23-D755-41B6-9852-96E87D248B6A.jpeg

BDE9EBAB-5FB1-4F4A-AD61-28E9BA2FA422.jpeg

Edited by Pedro

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What forum would discussions of SC down vests & down shirts be discussed?

I could use some insights on how these are sized.

Thanks

IMG_1699.JPG

Edited by Pedro

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Here’s fine. For what it’s worth, all of their down vests and jackets are from the California line, which is produced in China.

Reading through this thread from the beginning provides a whole bunch of useful info of the sort that you’ve been seeking for the last couple of pages, if you have the time.

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Thanks, I do read through early pages on occasion when a google search sends me there and I did do a recent search for the Lots 102, 104 & 106 but it didn't produce anything in the archives from any poster who actually owned a pair. I did find a couple well used pair on Yahoo JP though, and I have to say the fades & hand are rather poor after numerous washes. I am most impressed with the appearance of the course weave 14-oz found in the M41199, M41200 & M41300 which only improves with time...besides it looking to be a very durable fabric even after heavy use. I like your M41200 the most from that era. 

I did find a few pages about the 40701 but not one of them offered photos. Ofcourse, thats the trouble with archived threads and the profit driven decision by Photbucket to remove access to content.

I did see those down vests are China made. Unfortunately nobody else makes vests with that John Denver "look" and I want to be ahead of the curve when the global masses finally realize he was a music God and start emulating his Rocky Mountain high 1970's style!

BTW, I was caught offguard to see your home is CA. For some reason, I thought you were from some LA Parish? 

Edit: Louisiana Parish.

IMG_1703.JPG

Edited by Pedro

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Well…LA's is in CA, but I'm not from there anyhow. Berkeley's North.

If you're looking for the Rocky Mountain look minus the outsourced labor, Rocky Mountain seems to be a very good option.

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@pedro If you want that "Denver" look I would take a peek at the aptly titled Rocky Mountain Featherbed range. Although it was an American company it was bought by the guys behind Anatomica and is now produced in Japan. The price tag is high, but it's an amazing quality product. 

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RMF also does some collar products with Warehouse.

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2 hours ago, Pedro said:

Edit: Louisiana Parish.

My mistake. Should've realized from the start that "parish" didn't make all too much sense in the context of Los Angeles, but go figure. Anyhow, funny you should say that—I do have family in Metairie Parish, and I've spent time there regularly since I was a kid, but nope: Northern CA born and raised.

This page, coupled with the last couple of days of rain, is really reminding me to get back on the hunt for a vest. Off to Yahoo it is, then.

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...

Edited by Pedro

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Black Bear union and Crescent Down Works makes a nice John Denver-esque vest

EAB00EAB-6BEB-43D2-8D7A-FE38E6971FA2.jpeg

Edited by mlwdp

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@mlwdp

Black Bear design definitely takes it up a notch with the omission of snaps and eliminating the button flap. This is a vest which could be worn at professional occasions.

 

 

Edited by Pedro

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I have  that Sugarcane California vest, bought an year ago on taobao w tags removed for much less than sugarcane RRP (65 USD iirc).  It feels a bit cheap to be honest. If you want quality Rocky Mountain Featherbed it's the thing. The leather quality used for the yoke is cheap and I had to resew the collar after the first winter of wear. Fits and looks good though. For the money I paid I can't really complain.

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I bought that SC down vest in minty-blue back in 2007ish not knowing that it was MiC

IMG_1836

I wouldn't knowingly buy 'down' from China but i was on very good terms with Vari staff back then so i sent it back, think i swapped it for a sweatshirt or something.

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Just realized that Black Bear Brand collab is the only MiUSA vest on the market right now.  So, the price is kind of justified.

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There are other vests made in USA, Crescent Down Works for a start.

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@Double 0 Soul really enlightened me on the entire fake fade thing and I want to ask opinions on this pair of 40401 on Yahoo.

I am guessing they are a fake fade or pre-distressed but what I need help understanding is at what stage in their lifetime this likely occured. 

They are green tabbed so they are an early Hawaii? They are also missing any patch.

Was SC making these pre-distressed versions way back when? Or did someone buy these and then distress them? They don’t look like they had that much use based on the deep indigo still present. 

Any insights appreciated. Someone sure destroyed a great pair of Hawaiis.

4C9ABFE0-AF97-4EF6-98C4-4AA2ACF890F7.jpeg

AD7C17F3-112F-481E-9E1F-23972B0D7131.jpeg

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