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Sugar Cane Denim

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^ No, still haven't soaked. Need to get some length chopped off first, which is a first for me…these things are looooong. Maybe today'll be the day that I run them over to some or other shop. Consensus when I asked in the Questions thread seemed to be that AB Fits was my best bet, but I live a whole lot closer to Standard & Strange, so I'm still not totally sure where I'll take them.

Anyway, was taking some photos for a writeup I'm doing over on reddit and found, in the rear pocket, a neat little set of instructions for branding the patch…

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Took a family photo yesterday, too

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Planning to do a biggish photodump some time soon with detail shots of the above, so stay tuned

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The second from the right are a pair of deadstock lot 1955 leftover from the pre-lawsuit days. Very exciting! Picked them up a bit ago, but just pulled them out of the box for the first time over the holidays as a bit of a gift to myself. Snapped some photos which I'll post up this afternoon. They're pre-washed, but I haven't yet worn them besides trying them on for fit.

So far, I've only worn the mixed denim pairs, the three on the left. Of those, the lot 200 (second from the left) are my favorites. It doesn't come through well in photos, but the fabric is really special, without ever being too loud like some other hank-dyed pairs. They have two minor downsides. One is that the color doesn't match too well with non-natural-looking colors (notably, black); the other is that they only fit how I like during the summer—I'm always an inch or so thicker between November and May, and these are unfortunately slim enough that that makes a difference. When they fit, though, the fit's great: slim through the upper leg with really properly high rises in front and back. The rest do fit year-round.

Edited by julian-wolf
months

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Lovely collection Julian and I look forward to seeing more of them. The pockets on those Wrangler repros are huge in comparison to the other pairs.

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5 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Anyway, was taking some photos for a writeup I'm doing over on reddit and found, in the rear pocket, a neat little set of instructions for branding the patch…

 

Post a link to the review when you've finished it, I love those old school Japanese repos, wish I had been aware of the scene when they were making them.

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^ The reddit writeup's not about the Wrangler repros in particular, just more of a general brand spotlight / rundown of what sorts of jeans Sugar Cane makes and where to find them. I'll reserve the repro talk for here; I think it would put the reddit folks to sleep fast. Anyway, here's a link in case anyone's interested: https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/afo2nw/sugar_cane_day_has_arrived_post_pictures_of_your/. If you see anything that I got wrong, please do let me know—I threw the whole thing together sort of last-minute, and I'm talking out of my ass most of the time anyway.

That said, time for a photo dump. First up's the lot 401 Hawaii jeans, purchased pre-washed around March or April 2017 and worn pretty regularly since:

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Next, the lot 200. These things are seriously stubborn. Wore them quite a bit over this past summer and fall, though, and they are starting to change color a bit around the lap and seat. The pocket bags have also started to fade nicely. Really great cut, really great fabric, really great jeans.

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Last of the mixed denim, the lot 501 Edo Ai. I wore these a lot when I first got them, but I've been wearing them less recently. I like the fabric a lot in principle, but I think it's too loud for every-day wear. Oh well—everyone needs a good pair of yard work jeans.

They've actually begun to fade much more quickly / easily than I expected. Go figure.

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Last photodump of the day! Recently found a pair of lot 1955 MiUSA from the pre-lawsuit days on Yahoo, new in box. Got them in around mid-December, but decided to wait until the holidays to open them, figured I might as well treat them as a gift from me to me. Took some photos while unboxing since I wasn't sure how long it'd been since anyone actually opened up a new pair of these…

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…and then took some regular photos of the pants yesterday afternoon for cut, details, *etc.*

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I love the way they did the arcs to get around the copyright issues, if you look inside the back pockets you can see how much of a pain in the ass it must have been to do it this way. Is there a brand name on the zipper? Gripper Zipper or Talon?

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Zipper's branded Gripper, yeah. Spent the better part of a minute trying to get a good photo of it, but the lighting just wasn't right—always ended up either blown-out or out of focus. Such are the perils of smartphone photography.

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That's a nice photo dump Julian!
Those 1955 were a special edition AFAIK, not a regular model in their line-up.

Looking forward to rear your spotlight.
Also, the 40200 faded a lot more than I thought they would.

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16 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Have you paid attention to how the shops measure their jeans? I know Self Edge does it differently. 

It's best to refer to their measuring guides

My bad, i just checked the way they measure the jeans is different. i guess i'll go with selfedge way..

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20 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Zipper's branded Gripper, yeah. Spent the better part of a minute trying to get a good photo of it, but the lighting just wasn't right—always ended up either blown-out or out of focus. Such are the perils of smartphone photography.

I think, and I stress think, the Gripper Zipper is more historically accurate for a 50's pair, I don't think Talon were around as much on jeans then. Warehouse seem to use the Gripper Zipper branded zips on all their non button fly jeans.

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On 1/13/2019 at 3:28 PM, julian-wolf said:

 First up's the lot 401 Hawaii jeans, purchased pre-washed around March or April 2017 and worn pretty regularly since:

 

 

 

YMUJG5r.jpg

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These photos are the best I have found yet to show how the Hawaii ages.

I want to pick up my first pair as soon as I can find a seller of 34W.

I was hoping to buy the unwashed SC 40401-N  since I always bought my Levi 501 raw but I don't see many of the unwashed Hawaii at retailers. (I see your pair were one-wash 40401-A)

I am a recent SC convert after 50 years of 501 loyalty but I am still in the early learning phase and the SC denim is a very different animal. It does not shrink similarly.

Can you guys help me understand the pro/con of one-wash vs unwashed in the 50/50 sugarcane denim (Hawaii & Okinawa)?

I bought a pair of Okinawa 36W one-wash (style tag not readable) off ebay that has had two home washings and they do not shrink at all and they are too baggy (even at my winter weight...Lol) and I will probably resell or maybe keep to cannibalize for future SC repairs.

I really love how your Hawaii's have faded. 

Thanks for posting your family photos. It really helps me learn.

BTW, now that the last Sugar Cane plantation and mill have closed on Hawaii two years ago, has there been any discussion on how this may affect future production of the "Hawaii"?

 

 

Edited by Pedro

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On 1/13/2019 at 5:35 PM, 501XX4EVER said:

I love the way they did the arcs to get around the copyright issues, if you look inside the back pockets you can see how much of a pain in the ass it must have been to do it this way. Is there a brand name on the zipper? Gripper Zipper or Talon?

 

Yes, an excellent observation. I just had an arcuate sewn into a new pair of 1947 and it was not easy to do.

I really love the exaggerated arcuate found on these pre-lawsuit pairs.

Edited by Pedro

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On 12/20/2018 at 5:37 PM, SmokeStackLightning said:

These Hawaii jeans are itchy as all fuck.

I got the raw version from PSA, got a lot of shrink out of them. I couldn't believe how much indigo came out. 

I don't know about the pocket design. I didn't think it would phase me but I'm thinking of ripping it off (or parting ways with them all together). Decisions decisions. 

 

Can you tell me what size you ordered and what size you typically wear and how much they shrunk? 

Would you choose to buy raw instead of one-soak the next time?

My long time habit with LVC 501 is to wear them raw for quite awhile but not sure how to break in SugarCane 50/50 unwashed. On the 501's, not soaking at first gives me a high contrast fade and it seems like they don't shrink as much once I finally do soak them but I don't know if this translates to SC 50/50 denim. 

Thanks

-pedro

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Pedro said:

 

These photos are the best I have found yet to show how the Hawaii ages.

I want to pick up my first pair as soon as I can find a seller of 34W.

I was hoping to buy the unwashed SC 40401-N  since I always bought my Levi 501 raw but I don't see many of the unwashed Hawaii at retailers. (I see your pair were one-wash 40401-A)

I am a recent SC convert after 50 years of 501 loyalty but I am still in the early learning phase and the SC denim is a very different animal. It does not shrink similarly.

Can you guys help me understand the pro/con of one-wash vs unwashed in the 50/50 sugarcane denim (Hawaii & Okinawa)?

I bought a pair of Okinawa 36W one-wash (style tag not readable) off ebay that has had two home washings and they do not shrink at all and they are too baggy (even at my winter weight...Lol) and I will probably resell or maybe keep to cannibalize for future SC repairs.

I really love how your Hawaii's have faded. 

Thanks for posting your family photos. It really helps me learn.

BTW, now that the last Sugar Cane plantation and mill have closed on Hawaii two years ago, has there been any discussion on how this may affect future production of the "Hawaii"?

 

 

Hi Pedro,

you can buy the 40401 in non-wash/raw here from Pants SHop Avenue.
http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40401/

 

Just write Naoki a mail and he will sor you ot.
 

The pro of one-wash: you know how small the jeans will get. I don't see any cons although if you prefer to wear jeans raw for higher contrast that is of course a con for you :D
In my experience the 50/50 denim doesn't shrink as much as some other unsanforized jeans but I don't have exact numbers available.

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On 11/13/2018 at 12:00 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

Hot wash them (60C) and you’ll probably get more shrinkage out of them, unless they were already one-wash (pre cold-wash). I wouldn’t use the dryer again though.

 

I typically don't use a dryer but I was trying to get them to really shrink. I have found a hot dryer will shrink a fiber more than a hot soak alone but I need to emphasize that I have a 25-year old tumble dryer that gets hotter than Hades. I think the newer "smart" dryers are designed to not get nearly as hot. I always worry real hot soak results in releasing to muxh dye from the fabric.

It seems like most guys dislike the dryer but I don't think I have ever read why except that it can create unnatural looking crease lines. 

Thanks for your insight.

Edited by Pedro

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12 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Hi Pedro,

you can buy the 40401 in non-wash/raw here from Pants SHop Avenue.
http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40401/

 

Just write Naoki a mail and he will sor you ot.
 

The pro of one-wash: you know how small the jeans will get. I don't see any cons although if you prefer to wear jeans raw for higher contrast that is of course a con for you :D
In my experience the 50/50 denim doesn't shrink as much as some other unsanforized jeans but I don't have exact numbers available.

 

Hi  ;-)

All very helpful information... as always !

I just returned from 2 months in SE Asia and lost 6 kilo over there. (Hard to find a big plate of enchilada in that part of the world).

My Okinawas fit me like MC Hammer pants now.

 

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35 minutes ago, Pedro said:

 

Can you tell me what size you ordered and what size you typically wear and how much they shrunk? 

Would you choose to buy raw instead of one-soak the next time?

My long time habit with LVC 501 is to wear them raw for quite awhile but not sure how to break in SugarCane 50/50 unwashed. On the 501's, not soaking at first gives me a high contrast fade and it seems like they don't shrink as much once I finally do soak them but I don't know if this translates to SC 50/50 denim. 

Thanks

-pedro

 

 

 

I went with a size 33, while I typically wear a 34 in most other brands. The waist will easily stretch back to raw and then some if needed. I lost probably close to 3 inches in the inseam with a hot wash. 

The amount of indigo that came off was really quite surprising during the wash. I prefer raw just for the fun of it all, but buying a one wash would give you more certainty. 

The top block almost feels rounded, in comparison to say the Okinawa. They have quite a bit of room, so they are not very slim. Maybe you could size down 1 from your typical Sugar Cane or normal size?

History Preservation also carries both raw and one wash, if ordering in the United States makes you more comfortable. I used Pants Shop Avenue, and enjoyed the experience. 

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3 minutes ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

I went with a size 33, while I typically wear a 34 in most other brands. The waist will easily stretch back to raw and then some if needed. I lost probably close to 3 inches in the inseam with a hot wash. 

The amount of indigo that came off was really quite surprising during the wash. I prefer raw just for the fun of it all, but buying a one wash would give you more certainty. 

The top block almost feels rounded, in comparison to say the Okinawa. They have quite a bit of room, so they are not very slim. Maybe you could size down 1 from your typical Sugar Cane or normal size?

History Preservation also carries both raw and one wash, if ordering in the United States makes you more comfortable. I used Pants Shop Avenue, and enjoyed the experience. 

 

Thanks so much for the fast and thorough response. 

I did see that History Preservation has the new inventory now in the larger sizes and would allow for a quicker arrival.

The only overseas purchase I have made for jeans is a pair of SC1947 from Denimio and that company was outstanding with their Chat and also speed of fulfilling request. 

-Pedro

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