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Sugar Cane Denim

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^Considering mandel9000's lovely SC 2009s many pages back and your friend's Okinawas here, I'm inclined to ask if men can look as good as women in SCs?

 

I'd love a pair of SCs; just having a hard time finding the right fit. My Okis unfortunately did not work out.

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wow @julian-wolf the fit is perfect on her! Do you know what size she is wearing?

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^ They're a size 28. For reference, her true waist is 26–27" and hips are 34–35". They came once-washed (as usual) and this is after a couple of weeks of wear and one more poison oak-induced trip through the machine.

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ah ok. I like the smaller sizes as they are nowhere near as wide as the larger sizes. Only if I could fit in one.

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How much stretch is there on the Sugar Cane 2014? They're pretty big on the waist to begin wit and if they stretch further, they could be way too big for me. I am looking at tag size 36 and it is listed as 37.4 inches on denimio.

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2 hours ago, i_denim said:

How much stretch is there on the Sugar Cane 2014? They're pretty big on the waist to begin wit and if they stretch further, they could be way too big for me. I am looking at tag size 36 and it is listed as 37.4 inches on denimio.

I have a pair of the 2014 and the 2009 and both of them are currently at 37.5 on a tagged size 36 (same denim). I've always worn a belt but only ever washed them in cold and hung dry.

Hope that helps.

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@i_denim Just wear a belt if you are concerned with stretch. Especially if you are happy with the fit everywhere else. I figure that denim stretches where it needs to. 

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Thanks @istewi and @elmcitizen That sounds right and should work. I do wear a belt for 0.5-1 inch but don't like them any looser. I was trying to decide between SC 2014 and Full Count 1110 but Sugarcane won bot on price and being lighter weight for summer. I am actually surprised at the SC pricing, it's just half of a typical pair of PBJ.

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@i_denim

My view on SC is they don’t go in for lots of marketing & gimmicks and just stick to a few (fantastic) core models, a tried and tested formula. This probably allows them to keep production and overhead costs in check, and so they can pass some of that on to the consumer. 

SC 47s are some of the best jeans out there I reckon. 

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Cheers @unders

SC 2014 are listed as Unsanforized but one washed by Denimio. How much shrinkage should I expect on the 33.5 inseam?

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I’m not sure how they can be unsanforised and one wash at the same time. Probably worth Denimio clarifying. 

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^ It's very common for manufacturers to pre-wash their unsanforized (and sometimes even their sanforized) jeans before selling them in order to get rid of any shrinkage and make sizing easier.

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1 hour ago, unders said:

I’m not sure how they can be unsanforised and one wash at the same time. Probably worth Denimio clarifying. 

They have done the same thing with Trophy Denim.  Had to use the Trophy website to confirm one wash.

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That’s just one-wash though right? Unsanforised is no wash? Maybe I’ve got it wrong the whole time. 

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Sanforised means the fabric is (mostly) shrunk before being sewn. So it looks quite different to one-wash jeans. No crinkling etc.

I'll try and dig out the pic of Kawai San, who makes most of the SC fabric, with his Sanforizer, it's a vintage one he's very proud of. Essentially it passes steam over/under the fabric then squeezes out the water with huge rubber rollers.

 

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Sanforised means the fabric is (mostly) shrunk before being sewn. So it looks quite different to one-wash jeans. No crinkling etc.

I'll try and dig out the pic of Kawai San, who makes most of the SC fabric, with his Sanforizer, it's a vintage one he's very proud of. Essentially it passes steam over/under the fabric then squeezes out the water with huge rubber rollers.

 

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Oh ok, this makes sense. I’d always assumed that once the denim goes through any process it ceases to be unsanforised. 

Thanks all. 

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13 hours ago, Paul T said:

Sanforised means the fabric is (mostly) shrunk before being sewn. So it looks quite different to one-wash jeans. No crinkling etc.

I'll try and dig out the pic of Kawai San, who makes most of the SC fabric, with his Sanforizer, it's a vintage one he's very proud of. Essentially it passes steam over/under the fabric then squeezes out the water with huge rubber rollers.

 

That makes sense. So is it fair to say a pair of 12oz Sugarcane would end up 13-13.5 after a soak? I was told my PBE-019 went from 17.5 to 19 by somebody here. I assume all unsanforized denim gains weight after a soak/wash.

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To be clear, the fabric doesn’t get any heavier after a wash (well, once it’s dry anyway!), it stays the same weight but has shrunk, therefore the weight per square yard (the standard measurement) increases.

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This is the Nihon Mempu Sanforizer. I haven't checked but I have a feeling NM produce all the SC stuff, so this machine is the last rite of passage for all the Sugarcane Sanforized fabric.

Note it's huge, several times bigger than any loom, by far the biggest item of kit in the entire mill.

Sorry for crappy photos... my Fuji X100 was new and I hadn't quite worked out how to programme the auto ISO on it at the time.

More on NM here:
http://loomstate.blogspot.co.uk/2014/05/naturally-beautiful-trip-to-nihon-menpu.html
 

sanforizer2.jpg

Sanforizer1.jpg

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Really interesting photos, Paul. Thanks. I had some idea in my head of what old-style sanforizers would look like, but this gives a great view of the scale and complexity: it's huge!

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Got a pair of SugarCane 2014 in the mail. Pretty excited about it.

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I've been on the lookout for a good pair of straight-cut Leepros…does anyone know if the SC41099 can still be found? (Any other recommendations in a similar vein?)

edit: Actually, I see PSA still has some stock of these. Not sure why they didn't turn up in my initial search. Any experience with this pair? How does the fabric age?

Edited by julian-wolf

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Oh boy—browsing PSA, it looks like there's a new model up! 1947 cut in a heavyweight fabric (presumably the same as is used for the lot 303?): http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40304/

Surprised to see this appearing so soon after the last release

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4 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Oh boy—browsing PSA, it looks like there's a new model up! 1947 cut in a heavyweight fabric (presumably the same as is used for the lot 303?): http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SC40304/

Surprised to see this appearing so soon after the last release

 

Yup, we actually have these now at all Self Edge stores, they just showed up last week.  Similar to a 1947 fit but with the 16.25oz Okinawa fabric, which looks and feels so damn good.

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Gonna have to swing by SESF one of these weekends to check it out. Not in the market for anything that heavyweight…but since when has that stopped anyone here from taking the opportunity to try on some cool pants?

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13 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

I've been on the lookout for a good pair of straight-cut Leepros…does anyone know if the SC41099 can still be found? (Any other recommendations in a similar vein?)

edit: Actually, I see PSA still has some stock of these. Not sure why they didn't turn up in my initial search. Any experience with this pair? How does the fabric age?

I saw a used pair of Sugar Cane 1945B, which are based on the Lee 101B, on ebay, if that's any use to you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222991076314?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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Thanks @501XX4EVER. Other '40s Lee 101 repros that I've tried have been slimmer than I like, which is why I was interested in the supposed '30s cut of the lot 1099. That said, you're right that it'd be silly of me to not look into them a bit further before giving up. I know I've seen those show up NOS onYahoo; maybe next time I see a pair I'll ask for measurements.

edit: Come to think of it, I really don't know Lee's cuts well, so maybe I'm all together wrong in assuming that the '30s 101s were significantly less slim than those from later on. Any input on this would be appreciated as well.

Edited by julian-wolf

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Have a look at these Lee 101Bs, made by Edwin, they’re a full cut. I had the Lee Cowboy 1936 in a 30w which started at about 33” and shrunk to 32”. I’d imagine these may be similarly oversized.

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