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Sugar Cane Denim


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On 22.7.2018 at 4:57 PM, julian-wolf said:

Fabric looks really interesting—more regular than most of their current lineup w.r.t. yarn thickness, but super hairy / matted. I look forward to seeing how they shrink up, and how the fabric changes.

Yeah the denim reminds me of a scratchy version of Pherrow's 13,5oz denim with a grey weft, so not super slubby or something like that, just overall kind of balanced. I'll try to keep you updated, will probably stash these until october or so, until it cools off a bit at least :D

 

On 23.7.2018 at 10:24 AM, Foxy2 said:

nice!

Samurai did a cotton/wool blend a couple of years back for one model of the seasonal blend series of their Yamato line - made for a nice winter jeans.
(Should try to dig my pair out for comparison.)

for some reason, I think that SDA also did a similar blend, but I am not certain.

Those sound really interesting, do you maybe have any pictures of them available?

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Anyone have any info on the lot 202 jeans? Non-indigo, but unlike the 285 and 302 they look like they're a left-handed twill. Slubby, but super even dyeing compared to the other non-indigo jeans I've seen by them. Don't have anything to base this on besides looks, but I'd guess the fabric's 100% cotton, not a blend. There's a brown (persimmon-dyed?) pair up on eBay tagged 28 that look like they're in good condition, if anyone's interested. This is the only time I've encountered them, so I'd be really interested in any other info that folks have.

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On 8/3/2018 at 7:46 PM, Thanks_M8 said:

...

Those sound really interesting, do you maybe have any pictures of them available?

That would be a model from the seasonal Yamato mini-series that Samurai Jeans launched for Lot.14 - S001JP-F Fall/Winter.

I haven’t worn it in years since it’s too small now and I don’t have them here in Moscow at hand. But I’ll post some of the old pictures over in the Samurai thread in a couple of minutes...

Edited by Foxy2
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On 7/19/2018 at 2:17 PM, julian-wolf said:

Recently got in a pair of new (once-washed) persimmon-dyed lot 302 jeans tagged 32 that I think will end up being too slim in the thighs. If anyone here's interested, I'd give first dibs before posting to the usual marketplaces. (No guarantee yet that I'll be selling them, but it seems likely.)

Finally got around to listing these on Grailed just now: https://www.grailed.com/listings/6073757-Sugar-Cane---Toyo-Enterprises-NOS-Sugar-Cane-lot-302-persimmon-Okinawa

Would do a better price for SuFu folks, if anyone takes interest

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On 8/3/2018 at 11:49 PM, julian-wolf said:

Anyone have any info on the lot 202 jeans? Non-indigo, but unlike the 285 and 302 they look like they're a left-handed twill. Slubby, but super even dyeing compared to the other non-indigo jeans I've seen by them. Don't have anything to base this on besides looks, but I'd guess the fabric's 100% cotton, not a blend. There's a brown (persimmon-dyed?) pair up on eBay tagged 28 that look like they're in good condition, if anyone's interested. This is the only time I've encountered them, so I'd be really interested in any other info that folks have.

saw them on eBay...non-selvage and tiny size. never heard or seen them on Yahoo.JP. there's writing on the size label - could be a sample that didn't make it into production...

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^ There was writing on the size tag, so yeah, we're probably thinking of the same pair. Very possible that I was misremembering where I saw them…wouldn't be the first time. If I come across them again, I may post the picture of the sizing tag to see if anyone can translate the added scribble.

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I've gotten sick of wearing slim tapered fits, so I sort of want to go the other direction and try the 1947. Wearing what's basically the most iconic jean style is starting to appeal to me, and I appreciate in particular that these have a longer rise on them. It'd be interesting being able to wear my shirt tucked in some of the time (maybe even T-shirts!) I wear 70s Chuck high tops basically every day now, so I think the classic straight look might go well with that. Who's with me?!

I'm trying to figure out what size I'd get. I've worn 32 in Flat Head and 31 in 3Sixteen jeans. But all of these have sat at, or well below, my hip bones. For 1947s I'd probably want to get something closer to my true waist size. I think that I'd be a 30, which has a waist size of 30, and would stretch about 1" if I needed it to, but when I asked Kiya he said I might want to go with 31. I'm a rather slim guy (though I recently started lifting weights; I don't anticipate a huge change in body shape, though.) What do you guys think?

The absolute best-fitting pair of jeans or pants I've worn is 3Sixteen's olive chinos in size 29. The 1947 in size 30 looks similar in the top block, but with a bit more rise (which is good, I'd like a little bit more in the back in particular on these pants.)

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kiya is right on this one. 1947 is a wide jeans but it's small in the waist (in relation to the rest of it). i'm actually thinking, given what i've seen you wear all these years, that 1947 could be too much of a jump in wideness right now? i like it, but even going from my hawaii to the 1947 in the same size at first i was thinking, wow, culottes! :D just from what i've worn maybe you'd wanna give fc 1101, wh 1001 or, this might be a bit of a left field selection, tender 129 (this one has a long inseam, like 36" post-wash)? 

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I thought the same thing ooms and I believe inseam will be a consideration that could rule out Sugar Cane plus some of the repro brands for @Cold Summer. I would recommend TCB 50s (they come with a 39” raw inseam from Denimio, well, mine did anyway) or for something a little heavier, Momotaro 0701, which also have a long inseam.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I think something with a 33-34" inseam will be fine for me, most of the jeans I'm wearing these days measure about 31" long after I cuff them. So the 1947 would be long enough, but it certainly could end up being too wide through the leg. I have a pair of Left Field Greasers sitting around, which my brother wore a few years before they got too beat up for him, and they actually fit me quite well, so I could always spring for a new pair of those. The TCB 50s is another good option for a straight fit, I'll check 'em out.

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@Cold Summer For what it's worth, I went with the size on the Okinawa, Hawaii and 1947 that is a little snug in the waist and they all stretched out nicely. My waist is a little under a 30 and I got 29s in all of them. The fit ends up somewhere between a classic 1947 and a slim straight. 

Edited by youngofthesoonest
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2.8.2018 at 9:31 PM, Hendsch said:

Any chance you can take some post wash measurements? I'm very interested in these and you're my size B)

Finally got around to washing these, since temperatures dropped under 30°C here in Germany.
They seem to have shrunk quite a bit and seem slim to me, but that's probably just the '47 cut.
Anyways, here you, tag size 30, washed at 40°C, low spin, air dried [cm/inch]:
                                                                                           
waist: 76/29,92
front rise: 26,5/10,43
back rise: 37/14,57
upper thigh (measured at the bartack on the inseam): 30/11,81
knee (33cm down the bartack on the inseam): 21/8,27
hem: 19,5/7,68
inseam: 81,5/32,09

 
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Back to share my Latest unexpected pickup. Haven’t been this excited to get a pair of jeans in years. About 12 years since I sold my pair because they were too big and I just didn’t know any better. Second pic is with a pair of worn Hawaii’s in the background 

071ED153-2EE0-42D2-819A-5ABD8DBC0A1C.jpeg

40C48BFE-4459-48F3-862C-6BB95658EDB3.jpeg

Edited by chantheman
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On 6/18/2018 at 12:18 AM, Foxy2 said:

I wish you perseverance, as the AI journey can be frustrating in terms of fading - most excellent score!

I ended up selling my second pair of the natural indigo version a couple years ago for this reason. Couldn’t justify keeping them as just a novelty 

On 6/19/2018 at 12:48 AM, Foxy2 said:

I would expect the indigo-mix denim to fade easier - marginally!

it's difficult to positively identify pictures of worn-in and fade examples

There was a pair on eBay a could years back heavily faded. Wish I kept the pictures but this pair currently listed looks to be pre distressed but might give a representation of what’s to come.

 

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AB04216D-2EAB-4E20-9A98-52F60914104B.jpeg6BE658A1-E858-407D-9E1D-10033036CC11.jpeg.9a2fbcdc9d6f27f8e72263a8c3655eee.jpeg

Edited by chantheman
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^^ very, very cool find. An un- or lightly-used pair of those is close to the top of my list of jeans I'd like to get my hands on.

re: hand-dyed natural indigo, I'm not sure that a pair of jeans being fade-resistant makes them anything along the lines of "just a novelty"…if anything, I'd say wearing jeans for the fades is more of a novelty than just wearing good jeans because they're good jeans.

Edited by julian-wolf
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On 9/15/2018 at 9:01 AM, knucks said:

:(

I know the feels.  I have a personal gripe with Japanese denim makers not making much styles in black denim.  You may have to look at another brand for that style you're asking for.

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4 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

^^ very, very cool find. An un- or lightly-used pair of those is close to the top of my list of jeans I'd like to get my hands on.

Never know, there might be a pair of begin’s around somewhere but even back in 2007-8 when I bought my first pair they were lightly used and that was hard to find already. I think they were released in 2005 or so, so I wasnt expecting to even find a pair in that condition in 08. Kinda wish I kept them since I ended up gaining weight and buying the same size all these years later. Unfortunately this recent pair didn’t come with the matching bag. Good luck on the search 

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41 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

Some interesting info about the Edo Ai but you'll have to run a google translate to read it.

https://www.chiphell.com/thread-1004754-1-1.html

i think he means hes searching for a pair of the greencast Edo Ai color

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