Jump to content

Sugar Cane Denim


allacedout

Recommended Posts

dscf0094kl8.jpg

左綾、右綾織法這兩個名詞經常出現於各個牛仔褲的網站、討論區中

但是真正代表的意義卻容易讓人搞不清楚

兩者的實際意義其實只是代表布料在織布機上的梭織方向

而各品牌都有自家的慣用布料種類

而兩者之間並沒有所謂的好與壞之區分

左綾與右綾的優與劣僅存在於使用者的個人喜好中

今天用兩件同品牌(SUGAR CANE)、同系列(STAR JEANS) ,卻分別為左綾與右綾的

SC40051(圖右:左綾) 與 SC40065(圖左:右綾) 來作示範

通常全新的一件(復刻或者原版)的褲子多數人在外觀上不容易直接分辨布料的梭織方向(左綾或者右綾)

dscf0097nw5.jpg

這件(SC40065) 布料為右綾織的布料,從外部看來最明顯的就是可以從圖片中看出

有藍色的粗線條(梭織產生的經紗排列方向)從右上方往左下方向順斜排列

dscf0099nm9.jpg

這件(SC40051) 布料為左綾織的布料,從外部看來較明顯的是可以從圖片中看出

有藍色的粗線條(梭織產生的經紗排列方向)從左上方往右下方向順斜排列

dscf0101sd6.jpg

更近細看因為經緯紗的間隔使這樣的排列變得明顯

dscf0104fm3.jpg

目前市面上使用左綾織布料的褲子可能因為織布時調校的習慣(或者經紗的選用甚至是捻紗的不同)有許多布料

上由經紗(藍色紗線)排列的斜向紋路都較粗且凹凸感較名顯(如上圖)

近看如下

dscf0123ky8.jpg

相較之下上面這塊右綾織的布料由經紗(藍色紗線)排列的斜向紋路就顯得細一些也沒有這麼明顯的凹凸感

dscf0108fi8.jpg

近看如下

dscf0121oc3.jpg

若這樣不易分辨還可以從布料的內側看

dscf0110ws2.jpg

上圖為右綾織(SC40065)

下圖則是左綾織的SC40051

dscf0111qc9.jpg

其實左綾與右綾織的丹寧布料在穿著使用之後最顯著的差異在於布料經過水洗之後縮水

布料會順著綾織的方向縮水

Link to comment
Share on other sites

因此幾乎多數的牛仔褲在多次水洗後都會呈現褲管接合處有偏向而整件褲子左右不對稱的現象

如下面的範例

dscf0048lj3.jpg

這是右綾織的布料製作的牛仔褲,上圖可以看見褲管接合處自褲子的褲頭往下到褲腳

呈現順時針方向的旋轉

dscf0026gq0.jpg

上圖則是左綾織的布料所製作的牛仔褲,褲管接合處自褲子的褲頭往下到褲腳

呈現逆時針方向的旋轉

這都是很自然的現象

許多人會誤以為這是褲子的瑕疵

但,其實這才是真正的正常現象

Link to comment
Share on other sites

chantheman: shipping order received! I HAVE NEW JAWNZ

also, sorry aho, did leave some rep in consolation... reputation_pos.gifSugarcane Denim Thread 11-15-2008 06:54 PM aho i hate you...buying up my size :P haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up the 55s. I can wait to see how they are in person. :mad: to the rest of you that cleaned up the rest of the Sugar Cane goods at Attic.

BTW, I've been trying to search the treads on the fit of the 55s and couldn't find much. Anyone know how they fit in comparison to say the Okinawas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey there, a quick question for anyone with the 1966. I've done some reading and I'm finding totally conflicting sizing charts on SE and BiG. SE says a size 31 will measure 30 in the waist and BiG says a 31 will measure 33 in the waist!! Can anybody shed some light on this for me!?!? should I be sizing up or down?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up the 55s. I can wait to see how they are in person. :mad: to the rest of you that cleaned up the rest of the Sugar Cane goods at Attic.

BTW, I've been trying to search the treads on the fit of the 55s and couldn't find much. Anyone know how they fit in comparison to say the Okinawas?

I think based on the reading I've done through this thread, the 55 is a boxier fit with a wider seat/thigh area and normal/wide leg. Then again I'm just a noob. I did see one fit pic in this thread and to me they look damn near perfect and not baggy or extra loose. Making the decision all the much harder for me.

here is a photo of how the 1955 sugarcanes one wash (30x34) fit.

dscf0502v1xt6.jpg

dscf0503v1mx5.jpg

dscf0504v1uz7.jpg

kai_sc55_3wk.jpg

1955 made in usa, one wash. 31x34. 3rd week of use..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 1947's are coming on Tuesday. I can't wait.

By chance does anybody know how much the leg opening will shrink? I bought a 31X34. I want the leg opening to be smaller like 7.5in or less. I bought the unwashed 1947's btw.

If you want that much taper you're better off getting some 66s. According to BiG's measurements 47s are going to be a bit wider than you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i agree. i got a 3 y/o '47s w/broken arcs and a SC40400N [also a '47 fit], both sized W32x34. 47' cut have a bit higher rise even after a hotsoak +coldwash +machinedry ---about 11.5" front and 15.25" [which makes for a generous trunk space]. i know i could get negged for suggesting to size down, but really you could size down 1 on these easily coz the waistband seats right above the the hip bone. plus, the denim itself softens up and stretches out after multiple washes. 'got an old '47 to attest.

edit: WARNING: these are not for SuFu slim-lovers nor the cut you can pull down and wear low. in fact, i got the SC40400N up @supermarket to sell or preferrably trade coz i lost a few lbs and they went a tad too accommodating on me. a W31 or an over-sized W30 on [40400/500/xBegin] would be fantastic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got the 1947's. Didn't expect a size 29 to have such a baggy look. It's one wash and I'm not sure if I should hot-soak it some more to see how it fits.

If it doesn't I am putting up on the market. I think I shouldve gotten a size 28 even though the size 29 fits perfectly at the waist. Not too tight, not too big. Just almost perfect. I didnt expect the cut to be so baggy, gaaaah...

i still love my Okis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...