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Samurai Jeans


gimmegimme

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Finally scored me another pair of S510OG 160z AK, this time in size 33. Yahoo Japan auction, facilitated by SuToCorp. This denim is truly amazing to me, although it seems a little subtle at first. 16oz organic cotton, natural indigo dyed warp, fermented persimmon dyed weft. The weave is tight, with a fair bit of irregularity and low slub. They didn't shrink as much as other jeans I have/had that are a looser weave. 

 

Raw measurements (inches); 

waist: 33 

front rise: 11.5 

back rise: 15.5 

thigh: 13 

knee: 10 

hem: 9 

inseam: 38 

 

One wash measurements (inches); 

waist: 31.25 

front rise: 11 

back rise: 15 

thigh: 12.5 

knee: 9.5 

hem: 8.75 

inseam: 36.5 

 

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compared to SDA D1677 size 34, raw; 

 

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Top block and rise compared to IH 634-XHS size 33, post-wash, stacked on top of one another, Foxy style; 

 

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The fit and measurements are surprisingly similar with this lot and size to the IH 634-XHS. However, there is more room in the S510OG junk area and upper thigh, which lends a bit more unrestricted movement, but a little more of a bunched look. 

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fit pics, raw: 

 

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fit pics, washed; 

 

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Overall I'm very pleased with these jeans. In fact, they may turn out to be my favorite pair so far. The sizing on this pair is much better for me than the S510XX 25oz GA 15th that I got in size 34. As Max said somewhere here earlier, it seems Samurai has recently sized their jeans to raw waist measurement. I'd prefer a 32 in the 25oz version from 2013, but these will be fine in a 33. 

 

They're obviously too long ATM, and I'll prolly get them hemmed by RCFG at some point. Not how much wear they'll get as I'm in the DWC, and I'm liking my IH 634-XHS enough to keep wearing them for now. 

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Great details on those! Glad you like them - wear them hard, you rarely see nice broken in AI denim.

 

My BKB fit after three soaks and the button moved. The legs still look pretty full - the denim is super stiff and feels heavier than 17 oz, at least if you're used to worn in 14 oz WH denim. I hope they settle for a better fit.

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So after a long and foolish journey I sized down on the S0500XX. I originally had 31s, sold them and got the 30. Normally I would not size down but this 15oz denim is really stretchy and I don't like too much room in the waist (which was problem with the 31s). 

 

What do you guys think of the fit? 

 

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My BKB fit after three soaks and the button moved. The legs still look pretty full - the denim is super stiff and feels heavier than 17 oz, at least if you're used to worn in 14 oz WH denim. I hope they settle for a better fit.

 

 

How come you soaked three times? You didn't think you got all the shrinkage out the first time? 

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@mpukas - seems like you're better served with the Sam's. That all that counts!

I'm still debating if I need a pair of those...the selvage, the pocket lining, the weft yarns, the cut are all great details. It's just the denim itself that appears to be too even for me.

(Got a pair of SG5105 that didn't work out as well - going to size up 1 and replace it with SG5103.)

@Aviv - those S0500XX's come across much slimmer than my pair.

Great fit on you, never the less!

Edited by Foxy2
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@mpukas - seems like you better served with the Sam's. That all that counts!

I'm still debating if I need a pair of those...the selvage, the pocket lining, the weft yarns, the cut are all great details. It's just the denim itself that appears to be too even for me.

(Got a pair of SG5105 that didn't work out as well - going to size up 1 and replace it with SG5103.)

@Aviv - those S0500XX's come across much Stimmen than my pair.

Great fit ob you, never the less!

 

Thanks! The waist and thigh are fine so I don't see why I shouldn't size down. I was swimming in the top block of my TTS. I guess I'm not really rocking the intended look by doing this but I still think it works nicely. 

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...

(Got a pair of SG5105 that didn't work out as well - going to size up 1 and replace it with SG5103.)

...

I've got my eye on the SG5103/2103 as well. Will be on of my next purchases, and then I'm done for a while, LOL. I actually think I prefer the 21xx denim over the 51xx. Surprised no one has jumped on the xx03 cut - looks to answer a lot of SG fit issues. But I'm hesitant because the sizing on these looks odd. Not sure what size to get. 

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Decided to take some better pictures since I have been wearing these a lot this summer, the loose cut and soft denim is very nice when it is hot out. 

 

S0110XJII 6 months 10 or more washes

 

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Last pic from when they were brand new

 

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Here are my new S0500xx's, sized down one, with some better-lit photos. I'm still wondering if the top block is somehow too small on me now, thoughts? The waist is fine, it's just the overall proportions. I may be over-scrutinizing at this point though...

 

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Personally Aviv, I think those look great, but if you don't like them maybe you should count your losses and size up 1.  After all, you're the one who is gonna be wearing them.

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Personally Aviv, I think those look great, but if you don't like them maybe you should count your losses and size up 1.  After all, you're the one who is gonna be wearing them.

 

Thanks man. They are just squashing my balls every so slightly. It could be I need to break them in more. I'm on the fence and considering just pre-ordering the 16 oz 710s. I originally bought these one size up (which is my TTS), but I was really swimming in the top block. Could be this cut is just not for me. My 710s fit me perfectly though...

 

Have you washed them and how long have you been wearing them? they look perfect!

 

They have been hot soaked and I've worn them for two days. 

Edited by Aviv
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Thanks man - I'm not worried about additional shrinkage since this 15 oz denim always stretches back out just fine. I think I'm going to keep wearing them. I actually wore them in the tub and I think gave myself a sore crotch afterwards since the denim was so heavy and wet. The things we do for our Japanese denim...

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^Aviv, I'm kind of having the same problem with my S0500. They're very disproportionate. The rise is almost too small for how roomy the cut is, at least that's what I've found. Personally I think they look good, and that's how i'd like mine to fit! I just sent mine in to get tapered and slimmed down so hopefully they'll look a bit better for me! 

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^Aviv, I'm kind of having the same problem with my S0500. They're very disproportionate. The rise is almost too small for how roomy the cut is, at least that's what I've found. Personally I think they look good, and that's how i'd like mine to fit! I just sent mine in to get tapered and slimmed down so hopefully they'll look a bit better for me! 

 

Interesting. What size are you? Did you go TTS? The one good thing about smaller sizes like 31 or 30 is they end up looking a lot more tapered and slim. I also think there is the matter of wearing these in a bit. Once they stop bunching in awkward places and soften up I bet they will drape better. I struggle with lower rises because despite having a smaller waist size, I'm 6'2. So if the rise is too small it looks goofy on my long legs. Good luck to you with the taper job! I suspect that will help create the proportions you're looking for. 

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Interesting. What size are you? Did you go TTS? The one good thing about smaller sizes like 31 or 30 is they end up looking a lot more tapered and slim. I also think there is the matter of wearing these in a bit. Once they stop bunching in awkward places and soften up I bet they will drape better. I struggle with lower rises because despite having a smaller waist size, I'm 6'2. So if the rise is too small it looks goofy on my long legs. Good luck to you with the taper job! I suspect that will help create the proportions you're looking for. 

I got a size 36 (bigger guy, pics are farther back in the thread if you're curious) and I went TTS, I unfortunately wouldn't be able to go down a size even if I wanted to. I also have a much longer upper body than lower body so I also struggle a lot with shorter rises, hence why these are giving me a bit of trouble. But thanks! Now I just got to wait a few weeks. 

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I asked Denimio to measure three pairs of S510XX19OZ and they did it for me and they measured them flat and not the 360 way. So here is the measurements if somrbody wanted them.

SAMURAI JEANS S510XX19OZ size 34

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waist :  89 cm

front rise: 30 cm

thigh width: 33 cm

inseam: 99.5 cm

hem: 24 cm

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SAMURAI JEANS S510XX19OZ size 35

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waist : 92  cm

front rise: 31 cm

thigh width: 34.5 cm

inseam: 99.5 cm

hem: 25 cm

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SAMURAI JEANS S510XX19OZ size 36

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waist : 94  cm

front rise: 31.5 cm

thigh width: 34.5 cm

inseam: 100 cm

hem: 25 cm

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Any more updates on the 710-BKB that a few of you have going? How are they settling in after a few days Max & Chubacca? How well do they breath? Wondering if they'll be less suffocating in the heat than the 710xx. 

 

I just can't quite pull the trigger on a pair. I love the fit of the 710xx, but hope for a bit narrower knee/hem...contemplating sizing down one and letting the waist stretch out. The black/black just looks fantastic, the navy stitching just seals the deal. 

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I've been wearing mine twice in 20-25°C and found them pretty hot. Not only because of the colour, but they're also pretty stiff and tight woven, they seem to breathe not very well. Maybe even less than the 19 oz denim, but it's hard to tell as I've been wearing nothing but shorts and 14 oz denim the last months and maybe that exaggerates the effect. My worn in 19 oz denim felt cooler as far as I can remember.

 

So far, I still think they haven't shrunken a lot in the length, yet I couldn't stretch the waist out over the raw state. So sizing down is somethng I wouldn't recommend. In my size I have to choose between a bearable waist and slim legs.

Edited by Max Power
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