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Samurai Jeans


gimmegimme

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what kind of shrinkage can i expect from this denim. the pair im looking at was hemmed to a 30 and thats the shortest i can go. need to find out of there is anymore shrinkage left in these or else im passing.

for which denim - the 15th anniversary 25oz or the 16th anniversary 16oz? I never washed the 16oz, so I don't know. In the 25 oz, I got about 2" shrink in the length, and about 2" shrink in the waist, but it stretches back about an 1" to be true to tagged size. If I wash and dry them, the waist will shrink to about 32.5", but quickly stretches back to about 34". The length never stretched at all after shrinking. 

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I joined because I had a few questions that I couldn't find the answers to and I'm hoping some of you will be able to help me out with.

 

I just bought my first pair of raw selvedge jeans (3sixteen ST-120x) about a month ago after much deliberation about what my first pair should be.  I'm very happy with my purchase and I'm now looking into getting something from a Japanese brand.  I've heard nothing (aside from the guy who recently had his selvedge coming undone) but good things about Samurais and the s710xx fit specifically.  I'm looking for something with a slim tapered leg, similar to the pair I have, and also came across the s711vx.  I do have skinny legs so I'm leaning more towards the 711.

 

My question(s) is, how does the actual denim differ between the two? I know the 711 is 17oz and the 710 is 19oz, but is that the only difference? I've seen plenty of pictures of how the 710s fade, but none of the 711, do they fade as nicely and as contrasting? I also looked into the s003jp, but I want something heavier and actually love the red tabs/arcs on the 710/711.

 

One last question about Samurais that may have already been answered. From your experience, does the waist/top block usually stretch back to pre-soak measurements after wearing, and how much shrinkage do you usually see in the thigh?

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I can answer a couple of those questions. First, if you want to see how the 17 oz denim fades, check out pics of the S5000 cut which uses the same denim. Second, the 17 oz denim will easily stretch back to the raw measurement in the waist. Third, the denim is fairly similar in terms of character and slubbiness. Hope that helps.

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Thanks! That's a big help, I'll definitely look those up! The fact that they stretch back to raw measurements in the waist is a big plus. Anyone know from experience which website has the most accurate measurement on these and other pairs of Samurais? I know that depends on the method of measuring, but I've seen various numbers given using supposedly the same/similar methods.

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Thanks! That's a big help, I'll definitely look those up! The fact that they stretch back to raw measurements in the waist is a big plus. Anyone know from experience which website has the most accurate measurement on these and other pairs of Samurais? I know that depends on the method of measuring, but I've seen various numbers given using supposedly the same/similar methods.

 

I think Blue in Green have the most accurate measures for Sammy.

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I wear sz 30 in my 3sixteen pair and was looking at also get a 30 in the Samurai pair.  31.5in waist (BiG measurement) is exactly where I'm at, and multiple people have said they will stretch back to this size.  Now I'm thinking about possibly sizing up to a 31 (32in waist) to account for the measuring discrepancy I'm hearing about.  I'm hoping that won't make the thigh too wide though, cause again, I have skinny legs.

 

Does anyone know how much they shrink in the thigh? I'll most likely be getting these from Denimio cause I know BiG doesn't "technically" sell the ones with the red tab/arcs, but I'll be waiting until the end of the Summer since I live in Southern California and it's too hot to survive in heavy denim, at least in its break-in period.

Edited by VivaMarlon
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I wear sz 30 in my 3sixteen pair and was looking at also get a 30 in the Samurai pair. 31.5in waist (BiG measurement) is exactly where I'm at, and multiple people have said they will stretch back to this size. Now I'm thinking about possibly sizing up to a 31 (32in waist) to account for the measuring discrepancy I'm hearing about. I'm hoping that won't make the thigh too wide though, cause again, I have skinny legs.

Does anyone know how much they shrink in the thigh? I'll most likely be getting these from Denimio cause I know BiG doesn't "technically" sell the ones with the red tab/arcs, but I'll be waiting until the end of the Summer since I live in Southern California and it's too hot to survive in heavy denim, at least in its break-in period.

I have the st120 and the 710xx both in size 29. There is definitely less room in the 3sixteen and they feel smaller and slimmer overall. If your ST120's are good in 30 then so should the 710xx be. My 710xx shrunk about 0.5 inch in the thigh but stretched back out a little. After lots of wears and washes the thigh on my st120's is 11" and on the 710xx 11.2". Also the waist on the 710's (measured across the waist and doubled) is just under 31". You shouldn't really need to size up unless you have a beer belly on top of your skinny legs :-) !

No experience with the 711's I'm afraid.

Edited by Artisandenim
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I'll take that into consideration! I do have a slight belly as the size 30 ST-120x fit snug in the waist but not tight at all in the leg, (almost too loose in the knee area) definitely looser than all of the other fit pictures I've seen. That's what does worry me about the 710xx though, that the leg/thigh is even less slim and it'll end up looking more like a straight jean. 

 

Maybe it's due to longer wear and stretching, but the thigh measurement on my ST-120x are almost and inch less than yours, even though they're one size up.

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Yes, the 710xx is a good slim fit but not super slim or massively tapered and certainly nowhere near a skinny fit. They are really well cut though and the fabric is amazing. If you look through this whole thread you will struggle to find anyone who doesn't sing its praises and fewer still that the cut does not suit (sized properly of course).

That said, it is of course personal choice and preference that make all the difference and if it's a st120 like cut or slimmer that you feel happier in then the 710 might not be the best bet. I've tried on a pair of the s003jp in the past and they would definitely be a slimmer legged prospect (I struggled to get a 29 over my thighs) and have some great details, but it does seem there's a lot to love about the 711's for that kind of cut. Welcome to the world of Japanese Denim Decision Making Problems!

Oh, also - Where are you measuring your thigh on the ST's? I measure using the same technique as rivet & hide so from the crotch seam across. One inch sounds like a crazy difference - mine were not that slim at purchase...

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Viva I just soaked my 711's for the first time and I would say they don't shrink up to much in the thigh, more so in knee/lower leg and length. I did a 45 min hot soak at around 105 degrees while wearing them to make sure the waist wouldnt shrink to much as I went true t size (29). 

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To the person who said "Welcome to the world of Japanese Denim Decision Making Problems!," I totally feel you on that, it's hard enough when jeans are sanforized, I still don't know what to expect from unsanforized jeans.  I don't worry too much about the shrinkage on the inseam as I'm very short and don't mind paying to get them chain-stitched, but waist and thighs are bigger concerns.

 

It would be nice to at least have a place to try these jeans on, but unfortunately there are no Samurai retailers in Los Angeles (that I know of).  I was also looking into a pair of The Flat Head 3002, and while Self Edge carries Flat Head, online I don't see that particular fit.  All of you have been very helpful, I'm definitely leaning towards the 711, still undecided between the 30 and 31 though but I've got some time to decide as the size 31 won't be restocked by Denimio until September and I'd like to give my 3sixteen pair some substantial wear.

 

By the way, I re-measured my ST-120x jeans the Rivet & Hide way and came up with about 10.75", I'm assuming there has been little/no stretch from when I bought them since they aren't very tight on my thighs.

 

Balto, would you mind posting pictures? I'd love to see the fit/details.

Edited by VivaMarlon
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I wouldn't be too worried about unsaforized.  Just measure a pair of jeans that fits you the best and match those to Sams or any other that you're considering.  They will shrink when you do a soak/hot wash and usually stretch back to original measurements.  Most of the issues people get are sizing too small with wrong measurements.  If you think a cut is too small size up, if sizing up looks goofy, then the cut wasn't meant for you.  Good luck.

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I don't remember if it was this thread or a different one, maybe a few pages back, but I recall someone mentioning a jean stretcher (for the waist).  Anybody used one before? Haven't found any reviews of use on premium/heavier denim.

 

Sorry in advance if this wasn't the most appropriate thread for this post.

Edited by VivaMarlon
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I don't remember if it was this thread or a different one, maybe a few pages back, but I recall someone mentioning a jean stretcher (for the waist).  Anybody used one before? Haven't found any reviews of use on premium/heavier denim.

 

Sorry in advance if this wasn't the most appropriate thread for this post.

Let your hips do the work, there is no really a need for a 'Jean stretcher' imo.......

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Sometimes, especially with new pairs on the occasion of the initial soak/wash, I deploy a device called "Inch-Master".

It clamps the fabric area of the fly front opening and, therefore, does not put unnecessary stress on to the button hole during the process of stretching.

It can be found on Amazon and the likes...

Edited by Foxy2
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I use them for denim up to 20oz.

For sure, they are cheap and look crappy, but they work just fine - for me.

I have only seen pictures of better looking devices. Some of them only work with buttoned-up jeans, which seem to risk tearing of the button hole...

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