Ute Ploier F/W 08.09 Paris

[inaya]

[inaya]

[coalessence]

1st half of collection is nice...but ok

2nd is beauteous

[coalessence]

i need those sleek zippered boots!!!!

is there anyway i could ever get ahold of them?

the pants are interesting too...they look neoprene ?

the oversized black top..green pants and black boots is GOAT

[chronoaug]

Thank you, inaya <3

[homi29]

im very impressed

hope it isnt impossible to get hold of (price point and stockist-wise)

[inaya]

Thank you, inaya <3

♥

[FunkyFrenchy]

i love this jacket, seriously looks like carbon stormtrooper underwear....

[Guest Phrost]

excluding b store, anyone know if there are us stockists? what place were you talking about doctorworm? seven should have picked up this collection

[tsuedbi]

A google search comes up with no stockists, all i could find was a shirt/jacket by Ute Ploier for Topman

[XenoX101]

The knee-pad pants are a great departure from the norm.

It'd be interesting to know how they fit and what they go for.

[mr fluffernutter]

a departure from the norm? who the fuck are you

shut up.

[XenoX101]

Well how many guys do you know that wear cast-like knee-pad pants? Especially in fluro/bright colours.

[mr fluffernutter]

everyone i know wears diving suits, what the fuck are yout alking about

[e0d9n0b5]

A google search comes up with no stockists, all i could find was a shirt/jacket by Ute Ploier for Topman

bstore london has it and doshaburi is getting it, weekday has it

[geekbonchic]

Well how many guys do you know that wear cast-like knee-pad pants? Especially in fluro/bright colours.

Why do you insist on posting when you have nothing to contribute? I don't think anyone's expect you to have encyclopedic knowledge of fashion or aesthetics or anything, but at least have something meaningful to say. Good lord, man.

[Servo2000]

bstore london has it and doshaburi is getting it, weekday has it

The question is

did any stock the really good stuff?

[thomas_highstreet]

i only just realised you had infracted here too xenox101

[Guest jhaime9]

I've never liked Ute Ploier & maybe my opinion is mirrored by buyers who have removed themselves from the equation of picking her up; bulk of her stockists in Japan.

There's just too much embellishment with zero practicality for my liking & just a little too, I don't know... It does seem like she's just stolen her designs from the star-trek wardrobe

I don't know who stocks her in the US, if anyone? Maybe Seven for s/s 09? I hate Seven to be honest, they get so much hype. It's bollox...they pick up youthful 'fashion of the moment' lines that are likely to appeal to masses craving a particular trend...

only decent lines they have in menswear are Damir Doma, Jean-Pierre Braganza too, but no menswear...David Lindwall tee's ... but the rest is just the same stuff you can pick up elsewhere...they may as well just turn it into a fully womenswear store...

There's definitely a market in New York for a true, progressive menswear store... Hans Madsen, Carola Euler, Deryck Walker, Jean-Pierre, Marjan Pejoski, Blaak, Olivier Borde, JW Anderson, Omar Kashoura, Caroyln Massey, Christopher Shannon, Aitor Throup, Geoffrey B Small... the list just goes on... If NYC can support a store like Atelier, then they perhaps need something for the progressive male of New York city... Maybe the stupidly high Rent that landlords impose on commercial property is the restriction????

excuse the rant...

[Servo2000]

Probably the rent. I'm not sure what you want them to stock from Aitor considering all he has in production at the moment is his collaboration with Stone Island which actually is stocked in the New York Barneys. Damir Doma is of course already stocked at Atelier which is probably why no one else picks it up (either to avoid competition with Atelier or there may even be an exclusivity agreement).

In terms of those other designers, I can't say that I disagree with stockists either - what does anyone really stand to gain from stocking Hans Madsen, for instance? He hardly stands out from the crowd and as an independent designer I'm sure his prices are sky-high with zero name recognition.

[Guest jhaime9]

Probably the rent. I'm not sure what you want them to stock from Aitor considering all he has in production at the moment is his collaboration with Stone Island which actually is stocked in the New York Barneys. Damir Doma is of course already stocked at Atelier which is probably why no one else picks it up (either to avoid competition with Atelier or there may even be an exclusivity agreement).

In terms of those other designers, I can't say that I disagree with stockists either - what does anyone really stand to gain from stocking Hans Madsen, for instance? He hardly stands out from the crowd and as an independent designer I'm sure his prices are sky-high with zero name recognition.

well, let us break it down.

I'll try to tackle the Aitor situation since i've spoken to him. The guy isn't interested in producing seasonal collections, as he completely opposes the current sales allocation of designers art work. He argues that you can still purchase music artists work & regular artists work whenever, yet fashion designers have their creations reduced to a set time duration. I agree with him, I think the whole system should be shaken up, but it's the store buyers that have to alter it. There's no reason to disallow a more flexible form of purchasing, it just means buyers have to be more accurate with their budgeting (maybe it's just beyond their capacity, who knows). I understand Aitor on this, I recently ordered pieces from a designer I like privately for some shirts I wanted from last Fall & she was able to fulfill the order.

Regarding what buyers stand to gain from the designers i mentioned, I'm not sure I understand what you mean...

are you suggesting these designers just pack up their studios & give up their dreams, aspirations & career???

secondly, those designers are helping to reform current menswear collectively...they're doing collaborations with Topman & other 'recognized brands' that i assume you believe buyers should stick with?

All I get from what you said, is that you basically wish that these designers are inhibited in gaining accounts, or being provided with a platform to connect & sell their progressive menswear creations...

also, Damir Doma was originally carried by Seven, or is that now no longer? If so, it justifiably cements my comments of them being brandished as some super avant-garde mecca...when all they carry is the usual seasonal trend garbage.

As for Hans, he produces the finest knits i've seen anywhere, aesthetically i prefer them to what LUC (Carpe Diem) produce. Are his price points high? not drastically, his hoodie tops were available from B store at £145...

As a potential client i'd rather invest in highly exclusive, hand-made garments, by designers who create the vision i have of what i find desirable to wear...

my argument is that i'm sure there is a large enough client base in New York who share the same philosophy as myself...

Perhaps you disagree...you are of course entitled to your opinion & you are of course entitled to continue to pay through the nose for branded designers, which are mass produced in eastern Europe, where you are considered nothing more than just another figure on their sales books.

[PaperSt.]

Evil Henchman status

[Servo2000]

I'll try to tackle the Aitor situation since i've spoken to him. The guy isn't interested in producing seasonal collections, as he completely opposes the current sales allocation of designers art work....

etc...

I'm not sure what sort of assumptions you're making about me or about what I said - I'm simply saying that if there is a large enough market for these brands why aren't people carrying them? I don't think these retailers are stupid and are intentionally ignoring these up-and-coming designers. It's already a high-risk market and we're in a low economic period. The payoff for stocking those designers probably just isn't worth the risk.

I think many of the designers you listed are interesting and important but you posed a question: "why don't progressive new york stores stock these brands?" I answered with what I thought was a practical answer of what reasoning buyers are likely using. I'm sure Hans Madsen is all sorts of amazing or whatever but just in terms of "buying" him? I'm just not sure that stores are going to see the advantage regardless of how incredible his knits are. That doesn't mean I think he should stop or that people shouldn't buy him (neither him nor damir are particularly my aesthetic so I wouldn't personally) but maybe it's in all of their best interests to not wait for buyers to "shake things up" and do it themselves if not enough buyers are taking the risk to stock them.

[Guest jhaime9]

I'm not sure what sort of assumptions you're making about me or about what I said - I'm simply saying that if there is a large enough market for these brands why aren't people carrying them? I don't think these retailers are stupid and are intentionally ignoring these up-and-coming designers. It's already a high-risk market and we're in a low economic period. The payoff for stocking those designers probably just isn't worth the risk.

I think many of the designers you listed are interesting and important but you posed a question: "why don't progressive new york stores stock these brands?" I answered with what I thought was a practical answer of what reasoning buyers are likely using. I'm sure Hans Madsen is all sorts of amazing or whatever but just in terms of "buying" him? I'm just not sure that stores are going to see the advantage regardless of how incredible his knits are. That doesn't mean I think he should stop or that people shouldn't buy him (neither him nor damir are particularly my aesthetic so I wouldn't personally) but maybe it's in all of their best interests to not wait for buyers to "shake things up" and do it themselves if not enough buyers are taking the risk to stock them.

hmm...we're kind of going round in circles here & we're both arguing points that are valid it seems.

There is certainly a risk with these designers, there's a risk with every label/designer & their line every season & in this current financial environment, buyers can no longer rely on a line selling due to the name.

People are looking more closely at their wardrobe & what is actually required & not buying for the sake of a name.

I never actually posed a direct question to why buyers in New York aren't interested in buying in progressive menswear; my argument was that Seven gets taken way out of context & that they may as well become a womenswear store, because in my opinion they don't indulge deeply in menswear.

Marjan Pejoski sells in LA, so would in NYC. Jean-Pierre womenswear sells at Seven, so why not pick up the menswear? Omar Kashoura, Carolyn Massey, Deryck Walker & Blaak all sell in Japan & London, there's nobody in NYC willing to take the plunge.

IF boutique carry Geoffrey B Small in NYC, so i messed up with that one.

There just doesn't appear to be a store in NYC that caters for the progressive male, Seven stakes its claim as the answer to Colette or DSM, when in reality they're a poor version.

Surely in a city as vast & culturally diverse in fashion as New York, there is a market to support menswear of this ilk, Ute Ploier included (i mean what season is she into now??? & still no NYC stockist).

Just because Joseph Quartana doesn't buy in certain designers doesn't mean he doesn't approve of their appeal, value or sales logistics. For all we know, the investors at Seven might be milking the store for what it's worth & asset stripping the place. Either that, or Quartana plays it safe as he fears for his role in the company...who knows, many variables.

why wouldn't a progressive store see the advantage of stocking high quality lines? that's like suggesting Atelier are on a downward spiral with their philosophy...

anyway, swings & roundabouts...

[Fuuma]

Loads of designers aren't carried in NYC or carried one season then dropped. Seven may not be Colette but they do bring a couple of interesting brands every so often.

Oh and Ute Ploier rocks, really liked the last 2 seasons.

[Guest jhaime9]

Loads of designers aren't carried in NYC or carried one season then dropped. Seven may not be Colette but they do bring a couple of interesting brands every so often.

Oh and Ute Ploier rocks, really liked the last 2 seasons.

I don't know what it is with Ute...

she's an exceptional menswear designer & the silhouette is aesthetically in tandem with what I have going on...

but I just seem to prefer Deryck Walkers shirts & the whole demeanour of Carola Euler's lines in comparison to Ploier...

She's consistently good though & continues to develop her philosophy further...

are you based in NYC fuuma?

[Fuuma]

I don't know what it is with Ute...

she's an exceptional menswear designer & the silhouette is aesthetically in tandem with what I have going on...

but I just seem to prefer Deryck Walkers shirts & the whole demeanour of Carola Euler's lines in comparison to Ploier...

She's consistently good though & continues to develop her philosophy further...

are you based in NYC fuuma?

Euler is much colder, pristine and for a lack of a better word "Germanic" though. I like what she has going on but if you've seen what I'm wearing you know that it's more french luxe or traditional menswear with some darker elements mixed in. I guess I'm not a potential Ploier client either but her work has a dreamier, quality that draws me in. I imagine a future see as utopia realized by it's proponents and dystopia crystallized by wiser men. The narrative quality is palpable.

I'm not based in NYC but am familiar with the retail there.

[DJ_Flame]

Admire the double breasted jacket in the 2nd pic. DBs normally look shite on slimmer folk, but the thin lapels and shorter length makes the fit proportional.

I know it's nothing groundbreaking, but I do really appreciate and hanker after a DB done well.

[Guest Phrost]

seven does a much better womens buy than men, but i think they carried raf since they opened, so they do stick with designers in the long run. they picked up damir and juun recently, so they are building up their menswear.

this is the first collection of ute's that i really liked because it stood out so much from the rest of her work. if she can bring this magic every season, then it would an incentive for stores like seven to buy her vision and carry her line

[Sayword]

old, But This is a great look: