australia :: melbourne :: shopping

[DJI]

yo T, just a quick question for you (and anyone else who owns the CM black lizzy jeans). I noticed that the inside of the outseam of the left leg is sewn facing towards the back of the jeans at the pocket on the top, however it's sewn facing towards the front of the jeans at the bottom hem causing it to twist at some point down the leg.

not sure if it's a defect in just my pair or whether it's a design flaw, can anyone confirm whether their pair has the same issue? it's not a huge problem, I'll probably just get a tailor to restitch the hem after I wash them but just wondering if every pair was made like that.

[034936]

mine are sewn the same way, and the right leg on mine does twist verryyy slightly inwards.

[Tyro1]

yeah I have also noticed slight twisting in the right leg of my jeans. I think it was more noticeable after I washed them.

The left and right outseams seem to both face the back of the jeans on my pair. I thought maybe the denim was the reason for the twist?

[DJI]

the outseams both face the back where they are stitched at the pockets, however at the bottom hems of my pair the right leg is stitched facing back where as the left leg is stitched facing forward.

[Tyro1]

I just checked, and this is also the case on mine. The seam rolls over about mid way on my calf on the right leg.

Guess it was just an oversight in production?

[DJI]

seems that way man. it's a tiny issue but I'll probably have my tailor fix up the left leg after I've washed them, all they have to do is unstitch the hem, flip the outseam over and restitch.

[Tyro1]

Unrelated to that though, I do have a twisitng of the entire right leg. Most noticeable if I fold the jeans for storage etc. I think this must be due to the actual denim weave, (similar to vintage denim)

[Tyro1]

Also I had a look around chiodo the other day. Was I missing something? There seems to be hardly any CdG in there, mostly just the chiodo house brand? I thought they would have sold the CdG perfume range also?

Assin have the 6 scents series, as do Svensk (I think)

[home]

yeah think i'll do the monochromes. rafs are nice but as i said, i'm flat broke.

as T said, any local stockists?

thanks for the link james - too bad about the aud.

beat poet is.. admirable. but the cuffs and collars on all my shirts have gone to the shit. maybe i fucked up and they're dry-clean only? but shit, a couple of washes shouldn't have this effect..

[Ivans On High]

Have you guys looked at the St&ard Boots? I know it's tempting to poo poo them becuase you can buy them at GP but they are worth a look.

[jcotteri]

Hey D! so far every yurius stockist has told me politely that there are no more drops till november..

when i'm back in Tokyo i will take the picture in and ask them.

i'll try Fukuoka as well

[Tyro1]

I think GP is the most likely place to stock the docs also actually... the St&ard Boots looked alright from the photo. Might check them out, any idea on price?

[jcotteri]

funny story i went into midwest Nagoya and right up on the top floor i found the exact same CON shirt i was wearing only a size smaller of course, i also saw the leather sorts! lol

[Tyro1]

but, more importantly, how are you enjoying the food? I have massive craving for late night Kansai style okonomiyaki!!!

[Ivans On High]

I think GP is the most likely place to stock the docs also actually... the St&ard Boots looked alright from the photo. Might check them out, any idea on price?

I think they may have been $260? But don't quote me on that. I did buy a pair but I have completely forgotton what I paid. I must have been rolling in dough.

[DJI]

yeah T the denim is kinda vintage-ish, some parts of the fabric have a nubbish look and feel (man I'm making up a lot of words in this sentence ). still my favourite pair of jeans though, love the fit and they're really comfortable too. they are still kinda difficult to get past the foot though, have to put my socks on before I put the jeans on which looks mildly ridiculous in the gym haha.

I think chiodo has always been like that, a couple of Junya pieces, a fair bit of homme plus suiting and a lot of play crap. never really had anything of interest to me...

J that's a bit odd that they told you november, the first a/w drop is usually around late july. there is a small 2nd s/s collection (~20 pieces) that is dropping in parts from mid march to late may, not sure if all the stores have bought anything from it though. those j shaped jawns are being released mid to late april, however the flagstore may have them earlier (hopefully before you leave haha).

just out of curiosity what was the mark up like on the CON jawns in japan? a few CM pieces make it there too, leathers and jeans mainly.

[home]

i saw a few random CON pieces in tokyo somewhere and shit was wayyy too much for what is was. maybe 50% up on aust. rrp.

i'll check out gp (cringe) for docs..

anyone know how they run? i'm 42 in cps, 42/43 in mmm and most others.

[DJI]

that's to be expected I guess, japanese stuff here is way marked up too.

malmo, the new label from the hem & haw boys, has an online store now. more clean cut, swedish style design. a little more expensive than h&h was but still very reasonable, looks like they are going for a slightly higher end range with all of the pieces made from japanese fabrics.

[wept]

i dont know if this helps but im a 42 (i think ) and i wear the following in the following sizes:

docs UK8 / US9 / 42 (tight to begin with but good and snug now)

julius size 2 (again tight but fit)

vans slip ons 10US

hope that somewhat helps. if your unsure just go into a store that sells docs and try any of em on, highs or lows, to get an idea.

[home]

thanks wept, think i'll be 42.

didn't hem/hew have a shitload of unfilled orders when they went under? not sure they'll be too many retailers keen to pick them up again.. and, shit still looks like hem/hew.

[home]

that's to be expected I guess, japanese stuff here is way marked up too.

true, but you can almost justify paying the premium for jap stuff. the quality just isn't there for CON (not that it's CON making the mark-ups) to do the reverse.. wonder if it sells though?

[DJI]

I think the print tees sell alright, doubt they could move the basics there though with higher quality local brands at similar prices (julius, VA, attachment, n4, etc.).

yeah it does still look like hem & haw, there's only so much you can do with button down shirts, blazers and simple coats while still retaining a clean look. VG and fat are picking up the brand again, from what I understand the unfilled orders weren't hem & haws fault, they were fucked over by their manufacturer.

[wept]

DJI, i prob know the answer to this but ill ask anyway. Is there any AU brands that do long sleeve shirts that stack on the wrist and are longer (eg julius)? IF i have to import i prob will end up doing so, im just checking local avenues atm.

[034936]

fernando frisoni (new label by old frisoni finetti designer) has just put out some basic long sleeves that i tried on today. super slim, extra long sleeves. apparently the material is 50% bamboo fibre as well, the fabric feels quite nice. my only problem with it was that the arms fit slightly slimmer than the body/torso.

[DJI]

034936 where did they have those tees and was the price reasonable?

claude maus maybe, however T and 50 have been saying the tees are cut fairly loosely around the cuff but still might be worth checking out. CON are producing l/s tees this season however they only come in navy and aubergine.

not aware of any other local brands with a similar style unfortunately, you'll probably have to import man. Julius is an obvious choice, n4 is great for the price if you can find one with a cut you like, and the kazuyuki kumagai line of attachment if you can find some in your size on Y!. a lot of the other japanese labels (VA, attachment main line, shellac, etc.) are generally cut fairly short so I think those 3 brands would be your best bet if you're buying from japan.

brands to consider from europe would be RO, DD, BBS & the other olmar & mirta produced labels (nicolas & mark, jan & carlos).

[Tyro1]

the claude long sleeves are extra loose on the cuff, just not elastic at all, so if you pull your sleeves up or stretch them, they will stay that way. (until a wash)

[034936]

i saw the longsleeves at fallow today. i think they were 270, so definitely out of my basics price range. i really liked the material, it was very soft but felt very resilient. i'm sure it wouldn't suffer from the stretching and flairing out with wear that most slim fitting cotton pieces do.

and keep in mind that the sleeves are very slim fitting. i couldn't get the sleeves of the small over my hands. so given the amount of stress the material would go under, its quite amazing the it doesnt stretch and lose its grip.

[DJI]

I've got a few bamboo blend pieces, they actually stretch more than light weight cotton does so you gotta use good hangers. always felt frisoni finetti was overpriced for made in china shit, looks like the fernando frisoni line is continuing that tradition. seriously, bamboo jersey tees shouldn't be more than $100 AUD...

[034936]

oh really? i had no idea it was a cheap material. the SA didn't give me that impression. and i guess my thoughts about the stretching would've proven wrong had i worn the piece for a longer period of time.

[DJI]

don't get me wrong, it's a really nice material as it's very soft (similar to rayon and other cellulosic fiber) and holds up well to repeat washes. nearly all of it is made in china though, and relatively inexpensive to produce. hell, the GP inhouse brand arvust produced a bunch of tees and a cardi made from 70% bamboo/ 30% cotton jersey last season and they were priced at $50-$60...