Chasing Trends vs. Chasing Quality

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

This was originally intended as a response to a post by Serge in the 'Hottest new denim...' thread...but it kind of tied in with a thought I had seeing the 'APC vs. Rogan' thread as well so I figured I'd start a new thread to clog up the board. Anyhow, I've been thinking about how quality and trends interact and was wondering what others thought about how the trendiness of a one or another brand of street wear (a term I'm using ‘cause (a) I feel like a fool writing 'fashion' and ( I think the idea I’m getting at applies a lot more to the kinds of stuff talked about on here) is increasingly informed by that brand having perceived qualities of construction or design that other, otherwise comparable brands are perceived as lacking.

The way in which Evis/Evisu became such a big brand in the West is a good way to explain what I’m getting at. (Supposedly?) started off as a denim-nerd's (or denim-otaku if you like) obsessive attempt to make jeans in a way that they weren't being made anymore. The quality of the product was a lot higher than was available elsewhere so it got picked up by the kind of people who care enough about that sort of thing enough to spend 3X the money. The jeans were so nice that they started getting noticed by people who didn’t give a shit (the gulls didn't hurt in making them instantly identifiable) and they started to develop serious caché. I remember when I first started seeing them in London in the early- / mid- 90s. My first thoughts were: "What's the deal with those big white things on the ass and why are these people wearing such big turn-ups?†This was soon followed by: "They fucking cost how much? What kind a poseur would spend that on jeans?" Then, after getting the lowdown from someone who was seriously into denim, I was all: "cool, they're made on some kind of special jeans making thing... totally worth the money!" (Inevitably followed by "Shit, I’m wearing the same jeans as everyone elseâ€).

Sooooo….what I’m wondering is why, increasingly over the last 10 or 15 years, more and more of the people who are on the cutting edge of setting trends have started to define what is worth wearing in street wear through how well it is made (and while how hard it is to find and who makes or endorses it have remained important it really does seem like quality is the #1 concern…look at how excited everyone got over Acronym even though the branding stinks). Is the need for quality and authenticity that a lot of us have a result of people becoming increasingly media aware? Is it because we’re more cognizant of the way in which marketing / advertising / branding attempts to polish and label turds so that they can charge $50 for shit? Or is it just that we're getting older and having fashionable jeans is less important than having jeans that we know are better?

Or is 'quality' just another trend?

(I've had a lot of coffee today by the way. Is it noticeable?)

Edited by Yakboy Equals Nurturer on Jun 22, 2005 at 02:21 PM

[Serge d Nimes]

Great thread.

I have always been obsessed with quality everything. A good sign that something is high quality, both in design and construction, is that the item will still be worth money on the secondary market. I think it is really important for brands that have made a name for themselves with high quality construction and design to protect that highly sought after image by continuing to produce such products. Acronym is a great example. If you contrast them with Patagonia, I think you can see what would happen if Acronym became a household name.

Evisu has succeeded in confusing the hell out of their customers, diluting their brand image, making crappier and crappier designs, and losing clout with the cutting edge. The masses don't care about quality and they don't want to pay $300 for a pair of jeans; so if Evisu makes a crappy $200 pair of jeans they can stay in business and increase market share. Also, most of the people that buy $300 deadstock jeans don't buy more than one pair every couple years; so that is a very limited market.

Just like levis says: "Quality never goes out of style."

Carpe Denim!

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Jun 22, 2005 at 03:14 PM

[Brienneoftarth]

interesting question. for a long time i have been a consumer concerned with qaulity. im willing to spend a goiod deal of money on something if its produced with integrity and craftmanship. the only problem is, alot of times qaulity shifts and evolves so you find something you spent so much money on a year or two ago just doesn't cut it anymore. i think qaulity is tied to limited numbers because as consumers we witness all of the mass produced crap out there. evisu would be a good example of this. i feel like alot of people invested in the qaulity n craftmanship of the brand only to be betrayed by its popularity. so they go and find a new qaulity brand, maybe nudie or atelier ladurance or something. eventually you have to get weary of investing in these qaulity products because they will eventually go out of fashion. guess thats where fashion trends and qaulity craftmanship apprfeciation come together. recently i've gotten rid of alot of the streetwear labels that i had collected cus they just took up too muc h of my time and money. my new trend is simplification. i am intruiged with lasting classic things, but in the end, my personality is not lasting or classic so investing in something like that is becoming harder and harder. dunno if that answers anything really but just my thoughts.

[Brienneoftarth]

also, its always about knowledge. I can remember being younger and dropping alotta cash on stuff at yellow rat bastard and thinking "this is worth it the stuff is nice or whatever" then 2 yrs later seeing supreme and all and thinking "how could i ever waste money on that" .....i feel like you need to have an in-depth knowledge and experience with what youre buying to determine if something is qaulity for a lifetime.

[darknworn]

at some point in his life each person will follow trends, as i think this is just a part of fitting in and growing up. the maturity point differs for each person, some never actually grow out of it and can have the style to carry it off. as i get older, i start to appreciate more subtle things, i.e. quality construction. to me, there is no confusion between quality and design. a nicely crafted piece of clothing can fit horribly, vs. a nicely design piece will fall apart in no time. designer clothing will fade in and out with trends, but classic and simple designs will usually stand the test of time. i think this is part of the attraction with APC. eventually, even APC will fall out of favor with the unwashed masses, but as long as they keep designing clothes as they do now, i will still be a customer. simply, i cannot find fault with a pair of APC standard selvage jeans. they fitted well, simply designed, and superbly crafted. my favorite APC jeans, worn or unwashed, a slim white button down shirt and brown suede shoes are something i can wear for the next 40 years. this is the standard with which i will judge my other pieces, albeit a suit or a pair of trousers.

yes, once in a while i'd even splurge on a trendy item, i.e. rogan or diesel. but i buy knowing that these will be in the goodwill bin in a few years. no regrets as there is no absolute in life when it comes to clothing.

"God is Dead" - Neitzsche

"Neitzsche is Dead" - God

[witts]

i think it all depends on the person, different people look for different qualities. for example someone from here, would look and the quality of the denim and constructions and the heritage of the jean, or someone one cares about brands would see that evisu are expensive and in a designer shop , so they think these must be good. i first got into denim after looking at my levis 5 somthings i got for £25 after one was they looked terrible, and one day i went into a shop and saw some evisu, i got talking to the sales assistant and he explained to me all the qualities of the jeans compared to the main brands on the market. i was instantly hooked after doing some research about the brand and how the denim is made, so i bought some eivsu no2s and they felt so much better compared to the levis. a little later on i was in town shopping with a friend browsing the deisel jeans some at prices close to evisu, and i looked at them and there was no comparison in the quality and the jeans generally looked cheap, i dont want to look like every other fool wearing distressed jeans. alittle later i stumbled across some edwin in a store an picked them up to find them pretty much the same as evisu only better quality, so i have found now after learining about evisu its quality and heritage i now care more about the quality of the denim and how it is made rather than current trends or styles, quality is timeless. also you guys are using evisu as an example of a decline in quality. well i was walking through town last weekend after work and i had some evisu no2.s i was a group of kids sittin on a bench and as ii walked past they shouted "fake evisus ahahahaha fake evisus" i turned round they were shouting it at me, i looked down to see one of the boys had on some evisu with the gull splashed all over the bottom of the jeans with no selvage, he was wearing fake jeans, i said " what did you say my jeans are fake" then the one kid said to me look you evisu looks like you painted on the sign yourself" its not stitched in like mine. i looked at the kid in amazment, and said to him" do you actually know anything about evisu other than jay z wears them, do you actually know why theyre so expensive, do you actually know that all the original evisu were painted gulls and never stitched until recently,or anything about selvage denim" he looked at me and said no all i know is you jeans are fake, i said to him well just check the coin pocket of your jeans for this lining then you will know your jeans are fake" and walked off. i couldnt believe the stupidity of these kids sitting there is the fakest jeans ive ever seen with evisu written all over the back of them, who didnt know anything about evisu is wearing them because they are a trend.... proof if you follow the hottest trends you dont know shit!

[djfischer]

I think this is a very good topic. In my opinion for a certain time one can live with good designs and looks out less for the quality that stands behind it. But I truly believe that long term success goes in line with quality. You have to deliver quality clothing or at least deliver quality that stands up for the price that you charge. One mentioned Acronym. In this case I think that they definitely have amazing quality and therefore the high price is ok. Eventhough I would not buy an acronym t-shirt, because the design is just not good enough for the price. Its different for a jacket or a hoody.

I also think that people get quickly tired of stuff that only looks good and has no good design.

unfortunately it is all about the marketing/branding now a days. make the right people wear it and make it limited and it works. Quality only comes much later into the game. But again, for long term success you need it.

Personnaly I enjoy much more the brands that deliver enduring clothing at a rather high level of quality. Usually you also do not risk then to just follow a short trend.

www.highsnobiety.com

News on trends in fashion, urban culture, design, gadgets, art and travel.

[JohnW]

i think authenticity, and the search for it, is an important term here and it's something that seems to relate specifically to guys. or a certain pesonality found in guys, to constantly justify that the are 'real'

the search for authenticity is a central part of all things like youth culture and religion

the increasing desire of authenticity in clothing probably runs parallel with the average joe's increasing interest in clothing.

I'd probably link it in with the continuing search guys tend to have for group acceptance, but also finding a special, more elite group that less and less people know about.

look everywhere, on specialised messageboards, be it about music, fashion, sport, culture you always get thse people who are a little more 'into' it than others - they're the same but different - they belong to a group, but differ from the people in the group to make them a little higher up the pecking order than the others. you seem to get hardcore fans of everything now.

Maybe it's about being someone, or trying to stand for something that has meaning in a world that increasingly has no meaning, but it's definately not a new thing.

the diehard football fan who never misses a game, the monk who has meditated for 20 years, the denim geek who hasn't washed his jeans in a year, the straightedge punk - it's all the same personality type.

[andewhall]

Good thread......it's such an inportant mix of quality cut, cloth, construction with an effective brand image. I guess a company that can consistantly deliver all four aspects will succeed. I guess as a company expands some things may slip out of the the initial designers hands, as has happened in the past with YSL and Gucci. It may come down to how big the company gets? I don't know. How big is too big, keeping just under the radar of mass popularity and keeping quality in check? Just some thoughts

[wild_whiskey]

Personally I think "quality" is a trend. Maybe that's just because I don't care so much about quality. It doesn't give me a boner to think that my selvages were made on shuttle looms or by master craftsmen (although I do buy based on labor practices, I.E. NO SHOPPING AT GAP). I like the way selvage looks, and there is an attraction to it because it's the most authentic creation of jeans.

I think a lot of people say that they care about quality, but the truth is the reason they care about quality is because quality products generally look a lot better. People are selective about what trends and ideals they fit into, and right now, perceived quality and durability is the right market.

People say that some looks are "timeless." I believe that the "timeless" look is a trend.

[Serge d Nimes]

Nice insight Wild

Carpe Denim!

[Brienneoftarth]

perfectly put johnw. I totally connect with what you are saying/

[sway]

I agree, wild_whiskey. I think a lot of people (I'll admit, even myself) use quality as a means to justify paying higher prices for a designer/trendy item, since it's pretty much taboo to admit that you're buying something because it is trendy/fashionable. It's much more accepted as "cool" if you say you're buying something due to it's "quality". However, I doubt that's the main reason why many of us buy most of the clothes that we do. Hell, if Wal-Mart came out with a line of jeans that would last forever, I doubt any of us would be clamoring over there to buy some.

[Geowu]

In a sort of way, quality is not a trend or that which JohnW said, although I have enjoyed reading both your posts, wild_whiskey and JohnW. In my case, buying quality is buying smart. Be it buying a pen that writes better and lasts longer, a fragrance that smells better, a 320kbps MP3 instead of 96kbps, confortable long-lasting socks instead of low-quality ones, good-tasting expensive quality coffee, etc. That being said, the hardcore/authenticity/trend thing is an Extra/an Option. You can be a diehard football fan or you can be someone who watches football games once in a month and like it the same. In a similar way, you can get into quality because you want to make a statement or appear more refined than other people, or you can buy quality simply for quality

[deim23]

Quality never goes out of style. lol

But really - has anyone here ever owned Filson brand? Purely a utilitarian brand for sure. I have some safari cloth khakis and have to say they are about the best crafted pants I have ever seen other than traditional denim jeans. The cloth is woven so tight it is virtually water proof and they are at least 10 years old and still have a very ridged texture. I see people eat them up on ebay paying fairly high prices even for used filson pants. I am wanting to see what their "tin cloth" is like.

"Today's peacock tomorrow's feather duster. "

[xxbeast]

quick question, off topic...

why do the gulls on the japanese evisus look different from the ones you see in american and some english shops?

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/lotus/452018/494453/#647947

http://www.bbclothing.co.uk/acatalog/yev4je15d85nwspec_a.jpg

just curious.

...

Edited by xxbeast on Jun 22, 2005 at 05:34 PM

[ESTEightyThree]

i know evisu is made in japan, italy and china, but do they differ in quality? i think it would be smart for evisu to keep a premium, higher end line of selvedge denim for all the fanatics and then do what they are doing with expanding their market share by mass marketing, bringing down the quality level and placing there product in an increasing number of stores. Keeping a premium line and a more affordable line would be similar to what levi's has done doing. A lot of people wear levi's, construction workers, math teachers and fashionistas. Knowone seems to be too mad at levi's, so why is it so criminal for evisu to get that money. This would be a test to trend setters and fashion appreciaters alike. If everybody was wearing evisu's but you could still get your high quality selvedge jeans, would you wear them? Is quality the issue? or is that evisu seems to have abandoned their niche market? Whats so great about fashion and what allows anyone involved in fashion to have a job, is that it changes. The mass market all follow trends, be happy that you help start them. Half the fun is looking and finding that new line that has all the components that knowbody has really caught onto yet.

p.s its called a passion or a hobby. You are right all those people that you mentioned ( i dont remember your name...john something) have something in common. its called "something they love doing". Were you really high when you wrote that shit??

Outside Looking In

[Mr Moo]

i think most people really don't care about quality..it's all about being marketable. Everyone is so obsessed with evisu right now and i agree with most of you that the brand has definitley turned toward profit over quality. I work in a highline urban store in the US and the way people obsess over items, especially denim after it has been branded all over the media is unbelieveable. I think it is a small following of people who buy denim based only on the quality and a gigantic following of people who buy based on what people tell them is quality. i remeber when we first starting carrying evisu about 4 years back people wouldn't even look at evisu because of the price, but once they became commercial nothing alse mattered. I've sold people evisus for 450 who wouldn't look at apair of paper denims for 150 because they've never heard of it..it's absurd. Once collections become commercialized demand goes up and quality usually goes down. I just wish people would be more indepedent when picking clothing. If something is creative and quality i'll pay 250 but i'm not willing to drop 100 on anything just because Jay-z says so. No matter how hard you try you can't keep anything "exclusive". you will never be the only one with something unless you make it yourself. so all you can do is make your own decisions..the only person you have to see in the mirror is yourself anyway. Screw it...just stay away from my PRPS denim!!!!

it is what it is

mr moo

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Quote: think a lot of people (I'll admit, even myself) use quality as a means to justify paying higher prices for a designer/trendy item, since it's pretty much taboo to admit that you're buying something because it is trendy/fashionable.

Guilty as charged

I think I'm inclined to agree with the idea that the high value currently being placed on quality / craftsmanship is something of a trend...but I can't help but wonder if it's also to do with the generation that has grown up on this shit coming of age and wanting to continue wearing same kind of stuff only made better. There are plenty of middle aged business guys who obsess over the quality of their shirts and suits to the degree that some of us here obsess over our tees and jeans (check this place out: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3)

[Guest]

Rarity, authenticity, quality, modern classicism...

Various manufacturers of ALL things build these aspects into their marketing, and to a lesser extent, into the actual design and production of the given article. I suppose profit and shelf life is a cornerstone of the "modern-day classic" approach, but just as important is the designer/manufacturers' desire for validation.

Luckily, a lot of people with a fair amount of disposable income and a need for... what... status, coolness, meaning, envy of others, what have you, are willing to pay the price. Hence the $60 ashtray by Arne Jacobsen, a f'n Eames chair, pigeon dunks, hand painted evisu blungblung, beanie babies, Amazing Fantasy #15, tickle me elmo, and all that shit.

That said, some brilliant, pricey, and altogether classic gear exists. 501xx, Leica cameras, Lagavulin single malt, ray bans, Shure needles, White Widow hydro, FUBU sweatshirts (C.R.E.A.M.). but trying to work that angle into everything you own is just tiring.

Value is key, and it's also the most intensely personal aspect of existence. Some see value in a black nylon prada man-purse. Some see value in a really good blowjob.

For me, I'm cheap as shit when it comes to clothes, and that's why I'm into what I see as vintage classics and pure kitsch. Versatile, long lasting, and I don't much care if it gets stained or ripped. As for quality, i heartily advocate beating the life out of all your casual gear. Boxfresh kicks and a pristine $35 T don't do it for me. I got enough problems, never mind stressing over a scuffed heel or a spot of tomato sauce. The shit's called casual for a reason.

If brand names are your thing, then they're your thing. But most of the money and effort people spend chasing quality is actually spent chasing a hollow lie. Recycle and support your local charity shop.

Use what you got, and be happy you didn't get shot.

[rabbitpunch]

It's all in the fit. Ask any girl.

For most durable goods, the link between the perception of quality and utility is rather weak, especially when dollar amounts are factored in (for those of us w/o unlimited cash).

By way of an example: How long will a properly cared for dollar-store chef's knife knife last? What about a $30 chicago cutlery knife? A $100 Henckels? A $2000 master- forged Japanese steel knife with a buffalo horn handle.

Properly cared for, they'll all last a couple of decades, if not longer. Used and abused, that $2000 knife will be in a sad state long before the dollar stor stampie.

What's the point? Quality, for most, is really about the of the pleasure (and the anticipation of future pleasures) in using a prized posession. Every time you use that finely sharpened, honed, and polished piece of steel, you feel like an evil pro, ready to prove your 3 stars. That you know you paid good money, obscene money, or way too little money for the thing gives you pleasure as well.

Second point. Use, but don't abuse your stuff, and appreciate what you've got.

[D_cat]

Thanks for a great thread. I'm not convinced that high quality and craftmanship is just a passing trend. You reckon once you start buying the well made, quality stuff you can just swap to buying shoddy? Sure, if you can't afford the good gear then you don't really have a choice, but given that most of us here are lucky enough to be earning and living in the moneyd countries of this world then i'm curious, what good reason would we have to give up buying premium quality goods?

I also think that many of us have got wise to the fact that if something is cheap then thass not always because you're picking up a great bargain but coz 9.9 times out of 10 it has been mass-produced by some poor b*%*^! in a sweatshop who's probably getting paid a couple of cents an hour for the privilege of having a job in the first place. 'Scuse me if this is starting to sound heavy, but aint this the truth?

This issue is important to me coz I have to deal with it to make my own living. I'm a leatherworker. All the stuff I make is handcrafted and so it can take a while for me to finish a belt or bag. I use the best leathers I can get my hands on and the bottom line is that nothing I make is cheap. I charge a high price for every piece coz every item is of the highest quality and practically made-to-order. Plus the fact that I'm running a one-man-show here! The guys that buy my belts are happy to pay the asking price coz the way they see it, they are getting something special, an authentic, quality item that can't be picked up from any high street shop. They also really like that my designs are different and I won't repeat a design forever (usually no more than 100) so the chances of them running into someone else wearing an identical belt, cuff, bag whatever, is minimal.

To me it just makes sense that the older we get the more aware we become of the real value of things. I don't imagine this is something I will change my mind about - no matter what the latest fashion is.

[Paul T]

This is really interesting and you can define it a lot of ways. But there is a plausible explanation that comes from some ad research I looked at once that covered groups of people who were called, I think, 'inner directed' and 'outer directed.' Inner-focused means people who do/buy things because THEY like them. And outer-focused means people who do things because other people like them. The second group are into display; the first group aren't. I think if you're into, say, jeans in a big way that's ultimately got to be for yourself, because there aren't that many people out there who 'get' it.

there's some interesting talk about authenticity; I guess I'm in search of simplicity. Just a simple pair of jeans that feel right. And rightness means fabric that has a certain texture, a certain cut....

The only problem in life is that simplicity seems to cost a lot more. You try and buy, say, a bag made of plain, decent hide. It always costs loads more than fancy ones. But good for people who make these things, who are doing something different, doing it well. Try buying a simple, basic camera - it costs 10 times more than autofocus plastic things. Likewise phones, hi fi, shoes, you name it...

[wild_whiskey]

ROFL. Yakboy has brought in Ask Andy. That forum cracks me UP. I love it. I've never actually heard of people wanting to look like a WASP before.

[rabbitpunch]

Damn good thread.

Quality + X factor / Price = Value

X Factor being coolness, rarity (real or perceived), impulsiveness, context (e.g. buying something out of your price range while shopping with your new girl, or cuz your job sucks), the conditions under which the goods were produced, etc.

For a lot of things, especially those we are willing to spend good money on, the X factor is significant. Don't deny it. It was there before money existed. Back to when cavemen pimped they hoes.

For some things, the x factor is fleeting. Maybe that's why collectors are always eying the new shit, be it comics, cars, hockey cards, or royal doulton figurines.

It gets interesting when quality and the x factor bleed into one another, namely when function, durability, proven design become cool and desireable aspects in and of themselves. For me, that's the definition of classic.

Personally, the goods that do justice to the word "Classic" are: Ray bans, Levis 501XX, EVIS, vintage Pendleton (cashmere and wool shirts), Global kitchen knives, Leatherman, Leica cameras (one day, one day), Canon EF-USM lenses, Zeiss lenses, Technics decks, Grado headphones, Champion sweats, Paderno cookware, Rawlings HOH baseball gloves and official balls, fat city cycles, Ibis cycles, campagnolo, Ipod, and a bunch more.

Those goods have earned their stripes. They cost, but if you can afford it...

You see a lot of brand revival nowadays, trying to come across as classic. Le Tigre, Lacoste, Adidas 35th, fuckin OP is back for crissakes. Time will tell. But slapping an embroidered animal patch, or screenprinting RUN DMC onto a shoe does not a classic make.

No shame in loving a classic. Not much, anyway.

[darknworn]

Lacoste defined the polo shirt. It has been and still is the standard to which other polo shirts are judged (except for the fake crap on eBay). Admittedly the quality has slipped recently, but with hope they'll move back onto the right track. I'll still be wearing the Lacoste polo when I'm 60, just like my grandfather who's still wearing Lacoste in his 80s when he steps on the tennis court. Some styles never change.

"God is Dead" - Neitzsche

"Neitzsche is Dead" - God

[rabbitpunch]

I agree with you there, darkworn. Lacoste polos were the shizzle since before my time. Old polos still are. Unfortunately, Lacoste branched out way too far in the 80s (a la Gucci, Dunhill) and died an ugly death. A few years ago, the brand resurfaced and started making a helluva lot of ugly ass clothing again.

This is endemic. Very few brands stick to their strengths once they blow up because there's just so much easy money to be made by flexing some branding muscle. For me, this takes the shine off. Have vintage 501s become less desireable since Levi's started being sold in Wal Mart for $19.99? Probably not. However, Levi's may have damaged its reputation among non-denim heads who might have bought Levis at department stores and the mall for a lot more than a twenny.

How's this going to play out? This could backfire in a huge way for Levi's if their premium, red, and LVC lines don't take off, that is, if regular consumers associate Levi's with walmart, and spend their $150 on a brand with absolutely no discount associations. If they get stuck with marginal mid-upper price level sales and are outcompeted at the lower end by Faded Glory and whatever WalMart house brands crop up, they're scrood.

I like it when manufacturers stick to their roots. Cheese sucks.

[themdouble]

On what rabbitpunch was saying...

Brands worth their salt:

I'll start with the A's

Adidas

Apple

Asahi

Aveda

Alexander McQueen

-Dub

[darknworn]

A's:

APC

Armani (Giorgio)

Aston Martin

B's:

Benetton

Brooks Brothers

BMW (except the 05 models, wtf happened to the design dept???)

Bespoke (not a brand, more like a category)

...

"God is Dead" - Neitzsche

"Neitzsche is Dead" - God

[Guest]

Below is quote from Jake Spade's website. I thought it was a good example of "quality/authenticity-as-trend".

I'm a bit ambivalent about their notion of "...style because the designs have a reason for being."

Certainly in a historical sense Levi's were once workwear, military chinos were once just that, etc. It seems to me though that a return to the design principles that these garments embodied (call the style, utilitarism) is really no more than yet another example of an appropriation of a cultural and historically context, which is a trend we see everywhere. Jack Spade et al, are not in the military, Marlon Brando never mined gold, and I can’t even afford Oxxford suits.

I think what makes this notion of authenticity problematic for me is that the garments in question, or those who wore them, were never self-aware of their authenticity. They possessed a sort of innocence. And perhaps this innocence is at the heart of the quest for authenticity, quality, etc. It’s interesting, because in a certain sense, this all smacks of Modernism in art (not to be overly broad). At any rate, the idea of getting at essences. Why is this important, esp. for clothes? I dunno? I suppose people are always in search for stability, meaning, truth, etc. Why not with clothes?

At any rate, below is the quote. I hope the above half-baked waxing made sense enough.

"There are certain products that men everywhere turn to for reliability and inherent style. Military issue chino pants, Timex watches, Lacoste shirts, Levi's, oxford cloth shirts—all represent the proverbial "real McCoy." Most were originally created to serve a purpose—Chinos for the military, Levis for the workman, Lacoste shirts for the sportsman. Mass marketers have taken the concept of these items and produced lesser products for the sake of fashion. Remember when the only great chino pant you could buy was made of heavy canvas and sold exclusively in Army/Navy stores? Unfortunately, few of these originals still exist.

We've always appreciated companies like J. Press, Brooks Brothers, Levi's, Barbour and even Oxxford Clothing for being great companies that make useful items for men. The products these companies manufacture have style because the designs have a reason for being. With these products as inspiration, we created JACK SPADE. We want to return to this approach, once again offering men items that represent both honest, thoughtful design and practical purpose."