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Full Count Denim Thread

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I don't have a source on hand, but I believe that Indian "indigo" can be used with standard rope dyeing machines, whereas some or other fixative required to dye with Japanese indigo mucks up the machinery, meaning that more expensive dyeing mechanisms must be used. This could account for the apparent price difference.

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This is interesting. I was under the impression that most of the artisan denim we discuss here is natural indigo. Not sure what are the advantages though. Maybe it is better for the environment or maybe it is something Levi's used in the 'original' jeans. I plan to read up about it when I have enough time over the weekend. I am also surprised the Full Count natural indigo jeans haven't sold yet despite being a very limited run.

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Most aren’t and usually they where quite dear. This has somewhat changed in recent years but somewhere in the the range of double the amount of their synthetic counterparts isn’t unusual. 45rpm, Blue Blue and Tender makes a lot of natural dyed products if you care to take a look.

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1 hour ago, bartlebyyphonics said:

Lee jeans also seem to be doing a lot of natural indigo of recent years in their 101 range / model ... non-artisan ... quite baggy ...

Anywhere you can get measuments in the Lees?

 

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59 minutes ago, kbuzz said:

Anywhere you can get measuments in the Lees?

 

By asking directly from the store. Cultizm are very accommodating with this and their measurements are accurate; with others, buyer beware... Although I'm guessing @bartlebyyphonics was referring to Lee Japan stuff that I know nothing about.

By contrast, there are no really baggy models in Lee Europe's 101 lineup, there are only a few cuts and they all tend towards slim/skinny if anything... For example their main "straight-fit" offering, "101Z", measures less than 11,5" on the thigh with sub-7,5" leg opening  in size 31", with a bit of variance between versions using different fabrics. "101S" is more tapered still and "Tapered" extremely so, the latter with a roomy top-block, however. Z and S sport lowish front rise while Tapered is very high rise by today's standards. Sadly (if predictably) no natural indigo available either, but their denims are solid in general.

 

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2 hours ago, Critical Observer said:

By asking directly from the store. Cultizm are very accommodating with this and their measurements are accurate; with others, buyer beware... Although I'm guessing @bartlebyyphonics was referring to Lee Japan stuff that I know nothing about.

By contrast, there are no really baggy models in Lee Europe's 101 lineup, there are only a few cuts and they all tend towards slim/skinny if anything... For example their main "straight-fit" offering, "101Z", measures less than 11,5" on the thigh with sub-7,5" leg opening  in size 31", with a bit of variance between versions using different fabrics. "101S" is more tapered still and "Tapered" extremely so, the latter with a roomy top-block, however. Z and S sport lowish front rise while Tapered is very high rise by today's standards. Sadly (if predictably) no natural indigo available either, but their denims are solid in general.

 

sorry for any confusions

i was indeed meaning the lee europe line for high-street accessible natural indigo (mainly release from last year; but i think they have a loco jacket in nat. ind. currently available)

reference to 'baggy' was their leg width (i_denim seems wary of the straight cut) - your comment above shows more wisdom than i on the matter! look for '16 dip natural indigo etc.' to find the relevant pairs...

sorry for thread divergence... 

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How stretchy are the 2 mainline fabrics? If I wanted to size down 1 in the 1101 for a slightly slimmer profile, would the waist stretch 2.5 inches?

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2.5" in total meaning 1.25" when measured laying flat? And we talk about a one-wash/shrunken pair and not stretching 2.5" past the raw measurements?
If the answer to above is yes, then yes, the 13.7oz denim usually can stretch that much.

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The simple answer is to size down one on whatever size you usually wear in shrink-to-fit (repro) Japanese denim, e.g. I wear size 32 in Warehouse, SDA, Momotaro, Sugar Cane and size 31 in Full Count. Obviously if you don’t have any jeans from comparable brands, then this is not too helpful!

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11 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

2.5" in total meaning 1.25" when measured laying flat? And we talk about a one-wash/shrunken pair and not stretching 2.5" past the raw measurements?
If the answer to above is yes, then yes, the 13.7oz denim usually can stretch that much.

2.5" past the one wash measurements and total. Meaning would a 32" go up to 34.5"

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8 hours ago, DeafKate said:

How stretchy are the 2 mainline fabrics? If I wanted to size down 1 in the 1101 for a slightly slimmer profile, would the waist stretch 2.5 inches?

 

8 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

The simple answer is to size down one on whatever size you usually wear in shrink-to-fit (repro) Japanese denim, e.g. I wear size 32 in Warehouse, SDA, Momotaro, Sugar Cane and size 31 in Full Count. Obviously if you don’t have any jeans from comparable brands, then this is not too helpful!

Exactly this. Always size down 1 in Fullcount ( PS we're the same size @Maynard Friedman if you get bored of any pairs!) and both denims always stretch out beyond original tag size- my 31 waist 13.7oz WW2-1100-15 (1101 cut) feel more like a 34 at mo as I've not washed them for a bit. They shrink back, then stretch again. Sizing down 1 gets the correct profile- if you want a slimmer one, opt for 1108, 1109, 1110.

Sizing down more than 1 in Fullcount means you should probably look for another brand rather than spoil the intended cut.

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Is there anyone here that owns both a 1101 and a 0105? If so, do you wear the same size in both models? thanks!

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I have both models, both in size 31. The 1101 is a bit slimmer but they both fit OK.

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I did another wash. Makes it 14 months and around 10 to 12 machine washes. One day ill replace it with the 1101xx.

20180429_185757.jpg

20180429_185725.jpg

20180429_185705.jpg

 

20180429_185808.jpg

20180429_185746.jpg

20180429_185729.jpg

20180429_185754.jpg

Edited by Max Power

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With regret I've sold my 1108ex 25th anniversary edition as the thigh is too tight for me should have bought a 35" 

Edited by jewellben
update

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1. 1101 and 1108 are offered in 15.5oz and 13.7oz, what are factors to consider when deciding between oz (weight)? look, feel, fades, fall, etc. Which one is better, as per my understanding heavier oz is better coz it makes difference with low end jeans in the market also result is more noticeable fades, please respond 

2. I used to wear Levi's 501 want to buy Full Count now,  which model you prefer the most either 1101 or 1108? Please give your input. 

Thanks in advance for your input

 

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I recently bought 1110 while I was in Tokyo and tried them on in both denims. In all  honesty I found little difference between them. I went with the 15oz mostly because SDA 15oz is my favourite denim even though they are completely different denims!

Of all my jeans the FC feel the lightest and softest. Great pair of jeans, looking forward to putting plenty of wear in. 

While on the subject it reminds me, @i_denim you should consider FC further down the line, nice fits and the rise is generous. My 1110 are my highest rise jeans and have a nice slim fit throughout the leg. 

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8 hours ago, dada mafiosi said:

1. 1101 and 1108 are offered in 15.5oz and 13.7oz, what are factors to consider when deciding between oz (weight)? look, feel, fades, fall, etc. Which one is better, as per my understanding heavier oz is better coz it makes difference with low end jeans in the market also result is more noticeable fades, please respond 

2. I used to wear Levi's 501 want to buy Full Count now,  which model you prefer the most either 1101 or 1108? Please give your input. 

Thanks in advance for your input

 

i currently own the 15oz 1108 and if i was going to buy new jeans i would choose 13oz 1101 over any other combination. heavy doesn't mean better, just different. i've grown to love light weight denim and loose thighs if jeans aren't easy to wear why buy them? at the same time i do appreciate my 150z 1108. i find the slim straight cut to be exactly what i want for certain outfits. The heavy oz denim i would describe as comfortable like a heavy blanket on a cold day but not the best for movement. 

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On 5/11/2018 at 1:46 PM, dada mafiosi said:

1. 1101 and 1108 are offered in 15.5oz and 13.7oz, what are factors to consider when deciding between oz (weight)? look, feel, fades, fall, etc. Which one is better, as per my understanding heavier oz is better coz it makes difference with low end jeans in the market also result is more noticeable fades, please respond 

2. I used to wear Levi's 501 want to buy Full Count now,  which model you prefer the most either 1101 or 1108? Please give your input. 

Thanks in advance for your input

 

You can't go wrong with either denim, and both will give you beautiful vintage style fades just like old 1950s Levi's. I tend to prefer the heavier XX denim as it's got a little more character and softens beautifully with wear, but the 13.7oz also so comfortable that it's ideal for warmer days. I tend to wear only Fullcount and Warehouse socially as both are just so comfortable and the cuts are great. 

1101 a great fit, the 1108 tighter in the top block and a slimmer straight fit. Don't overlook the 0105 either- it's the same top block as the 1101 but a straight fit rather than a slight taper and it's one of my favourite cuts- I'll be getting the 13.7oz 0105 at some point but got several other pairs of Fullcount to break in first.  

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On 5/11/2018 at 11:52 PM, Geeman said:

I recently bought 1110 while I was in Tokyo and tried them on in both denims. In all  honesty I found little difference between them. I went with the 15oz mostly because SDA 15oz is my favourite denim even though they are completely different denims!

Of all my jeans the FC feel the lightest and softest. Great pair of jeans, looking forward to putting plenty of wear in. 

While on the subject it reminds me, @i_denim you should consider FC further down the line, nice fits and the rise is generous. My 1110 are my highest rise jeans and have a nice slim fit throughout the leg. 

Thanks, @Geeman. I looked at the measurements and it does look promising. I am adding it to my shortlist for the next purchase of summer denim. I have been wearing my 19oz PBJ's here in Dubai for the last two days and certain parts of my body are on fire. I am very keen to buy something in 10-12oz if I am going to survive this weather.

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On 12/05/2017 at 7:32 AM, Dry said:

IMG_20170512_073028.jpg

Well, nobody seemed to like the pics of my FC1904 shorts in size 30 last year, but in fact they have worked and worn well in the flesh and I have had no adverse comments. However, with the arrival of this year's batch, I have gone a size up to 32.5b18e41b11606_180607FullCount1904shorts.thumb.jpg.abe4b5365ac8e5c1fcaa3d316fdc5fa7.jpg

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We probably have a different gauge of what feels tight, but visually, they look like they're vacuum packed onto your legs... Moose knuckles are definitely evident as well. 

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I'm conflicted - I would like to rep because there are pictures and content, but I'm not into denim shorts...

alas, I'll rep.

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^^^ I think we need a fit pic of last year’s size 30 with some wear on them.

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Ruedi may like them......

Sorry.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^^^ I think we need a fit pic of last year’s size 30 with some wear on them.

Here they are:

IMG_20180607_1751252.jpg

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