Full Count Denim Thread

[mikecch]

^ IMO, the leather used on Samurai, Strike Gold and The Flat Head belts are better than the others, although you could get similar if not better American and British leathers at a much better price made by a craftsman doing private work.

More and more non-Japanese craftsman are using leathers from Tochigi and Himeji tanneries, so maybe look into that too?

Ultimately, as a Superfuturian, I think if you are paying more than $100 USD for a belt, it ought to be hand-stitched.

[JohnM]

At the risk of obsessing over minute details (not the first time!), does anyone own the FC0105 and FC1101 in the same size?  The 0105 is clearly bigger at the leg opening but are there any differences in the top block or thigh measurements?  I find the 1101 in 34 to be a little large in the waist but I fear the 33 might be too trim through the thighs.  Would the 0105 be any different or is it identical above the knees?

 

Thanks.

John

[EdwardBear]

At the risk of obsessing over minute details (not the first time!), does anyone own the FC0105 and FC1101 in the same size?  The 0105 is clearly bigger at the leg opening but are there any differences in the top block or thigh measurements?  I find the 1101 in 34 to be a little large in the waist but I fear the 33 might be too trim through the thighs.  Would the 0105 be any different or is it identical above the knees?

 

Thanks.

John

 

Hey John, I have 0105xx and 1101xx both in a 31 and without having measured them I'd say the only noticeable difference is below the knee/leg opening. Thigh and top block seems identical to me. To be honest, they are both such great cuts there's little between them to be an easy rotation, but enough difference to know you've got that particular model on, if that makes sense?! I'll happily measure mine tomorrow to let you know, but from wearing both the only difference with mine is below the knee, and my 1101xx arcs are wider and lower :-)

 

Best,

Ed

[EdwardBear]

Hi John, as I suspected, the measurements for waist and thigh on my 0105XX and 1101XX are as near as identical as dammit! So I'd recommend going with the same size for both models. In fact, my experience is I go the same size for 0105, 1101, and 1108. The two WW2 models I have (1100-14 and 1100-15 based on 0105 and 1101 respectively) also fit me exactly the same in a 31. I don't have 1109 as I think it's probably a little skinny but tempted by the 1110Z which I'd also opt for in a 31. Hope this helps!

[JohnM]

Thanks EdwardBear.  I'm not surprised the top block and thighs of the 0105 and 1101 are pretty much identical but appreciate the confirmation!  The issue with many cuts on me is that the thighs are too tight when the waist is just right.  So while I can (probably) wear a 33 or 34 in the 0105 or 1101, the thighs of an 1108 are too tight, even in 34.

 

By the way, I see your 0105 and 1101 are both XX models.  How do you like the heavier XX denim compared to the lighter weight banner denim (e.g., comfort, stretch, feel).

 

John

[EdwardBear]

Hey John, both denims have their merits- most of my Fullcounts are the XX model but my 2015 WW2 are 13.75. I prefer the XX denim personally as it's so comfortable for the heavier weight and seemed to have a bit more character, but once my WW2 have got more wear on them I can compare them much better. Stretch is about the same for both I'd say and whichever the weight you can't go wrong!

 

Best,

Ed

[Maynard Friedman]

I have a pair of BNWT unworn raw 0105XX (15.5oz) size 31 that I'd like to swap for a pair of 1101 (13.7 or 15.5oz) in size 31. If anyone's interested, let me know.

[EdwardBear]

I have a pair of BNWT unworn raw 0105XX (15.5oz) size 31 that I'd like to swap for a pair of 1101 (13.7 or 15.5oz) in size 31. If anyone's interested, let me know.

 

Oh man, just yesterday I sent a brand new pair of 1101  13.7oz in 31 to a good mate of mine as they were sitting on my rail and not at the front of the rotation queue! If they don't fit him, I'll let you know as I love my 0105s. Let me know if you end up wanting to sell 'em...

[Maynard Friedman]

You couldn't make it up EB! I've had these for a few years now and been meaning to do something about them. Let me know how it works out with your mate and if he keeps them we can probably work out a price for the 0105XX.

[jewellben]

Shameless plug - latest full count model for sale as I should have sized up

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351929842208

Full Count 1110 Jeans 34 BNWT

[chicote]

This standard denim is amazing!

[JohnM]

Quick question and shameless plug:

 

Just bought a pair of one-wash FC1101 in size 33 that fit well.  Would you soak or wash these before wearing or am I good to go with the wash from the factory?

 

Let me know if you're looking for a brand new pair of one-wash 1101XX in size 34 -- a touch too large in the waist for me.  Had these prior to the 33 and now realize the sizing error.

 

John

[setterman]

I'd wash 'em, just because you don't know who's dirty legs they were on before you!

[JohnM]

^ yes setterman, something I hadn't considered ....

[garden gnomes in space]

anyone know if the factory one wash FC's would benefit from an additional wash to get rid of residual shrink or is the factory wash brutal enough?

[JohnM]

^ that's pretty much what I was wondering garden gnomes.  Of course, the Fullcount banner denim stretches as much as any I know, so even a little more shrinkage might be compensated by FC stretch ;-)

[Mr-Bielby]

In my opinion there is no more shrink left

[Sugar Mountain]

From my experience, there was very little - if any - shrinkage left in my OW pair.

[JohnM]

Anyone have experience with the 15.5 oz. XX denim vs. the banner denim over time (e.g., durability, softness/feel, fades)?  Prefer one or the other?

[BrownMetallic]

^Both were fab, in my experience.

The 13.75 gets soft, but more defined ataris, especially along the seams & folds [eg, railroad tracks, roping, etc.] = more vintage fade ... The XX got heft & gives more contrast + 3-D definition @combs/whiskers.

IMO, it's personal preference. I had the 13.75 on the 0105__ would've preferred them on XX so they don't flap about__ 1108/1109 should be good for the 13.75

[garden gnomes in space]

my XX denim faded almost like the sugarcane 50/50 in terms of vertical falling.  It also held and continues to hold its indigo very well

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I found the XX to be one of the most interesting stock denims of all brands I encountered in terms of texture and character. It is a very hairy and slubby denim in world of vintage vibe denims without going to the extreme like PBJ or Oni (which are of course not vintage inspired). It is also very dark and feels robust. 

 

That said I prefer the fades of the 13.75 denim over the XX denim. Those sure take a lot of time to fade and I haven't seen too many examples of pairs I really liked. 

 

So for the look and feel from the get go I would prefer the XX but in the long run with fades and worn in, the standard denim gets my vote.

[oomslokop]

standard denim after about 4 years:

 

[PeterParker]

Here are some pictures of my standard 1108.

 

Bought them slightly worn, around 3 years ago.

 

 

 

Easily the most comfortable denim I have worn. In comparison, the 15.5oz denim used on the BiG contest run has a coarse hand and is much less pliable. Both excellent denim and hold onto the indigo stubbornly, which gives the subtle fades seen on the 1108. Love how these decay, the arcs, the patch, the stitching at the pockets. A fine example of why all good things should fall apart.

Edited December 23, 2016 by PeterParker

[oomslokop]

very accurate colour. ta for that pp.

 

mine has more contrast since at one stretch i went seven months without a wash, which can sometimes make it look as if i was wearing pre-distressed jeans hahaha.

 

 

 

but then again, if pre-distressing can come up with those combs i'll buy em!

[okisan]

I found the XX to be one of the most interesting stock denims of all brands I encountered in terms of texture and character. It is a very hairy and slubby denim in world of vintage vibe denims without going to the extreme like PBJ or Oni (which are of course not vintage inspired). It is also very dark and feels robust. 

 

That said I prefer the fades of the 13.75 denim over the XX denim. Those sure take a lot of time to fade and I haven't seen too many examples of pairs I really liked. 

 

So for the look and feel from the get go I would prefer the XX but in the long run with fades and worn in, the standard denim gets my vote.

 

I've managed to squeeze myself back into my 1109xx and have been giving them some wear so will post up pics at some point when it's worthwhile. But i agree on the denim, very nice feel and texture.

[Broark]

Wearing my 13.7 oz 1101's today for the first time in forever while I wash my Roy's, forgot how comfy they are!
Might have to pick up this years anniversary edition in the 0105 cut once we hear some more details.

[Big_Hoss_Butt_Floss]

I've seen some Fullcount denim in the one-wash format labeled on the inner wash tags with a W at the end of the model name (for example, 1101XXW). Is this true always with FC?

I bought some 1109IC a few months ago and had them hemmed, never wore them until today. They were advertised as one-wash. On inspection however, the patch looks non-washed and there's no "W" on the inner label. Despite that, the measurements seem to match what I can find online for the one-wash variant with a size 34 tag and a perfect 34" waist.

Any idea if that missing W is meaningful or not? I have to decide to either sell these as BNWT or risk soaking them post hem where they may come up both too small and too short.

Thanks!

[gratefulmelon]

I have the 1109IC in a 38. When I hot wash and machine dry them they measure 36 but stretch back out very quickly to tagged size. I needed the extra room in the thighs so I sized up. Easily my most comfortable pair of jeans just wish the waist wouldn't stretch back to tagged size.

[Big_Hoss_Butt_Floss]

I have the 1109IC in a 38. When I hot wash and machine dry them they measure 36 but stretch back out very quickly to tagged size. I needed the extra room in the thighs so I sized up. Easily my most comfortable pair of jeans just wish the waist wouldn't stretch back to tagged size.

Bummer, if your 38s shrink to 36, then my true 34 is probably raw. No way they'll fit me, especially after a hem. Thanks for the info!