Full Count Denim Thread

[setterman]

If you're going to put the effort into making a premium jean, you have an appropriate patch to finish it off. The old one is ok, but the new one is absolute dogshit. And I've always found it tacky using selvedge anywhere other than the traditional spots at the out seam and inside the watch pocket. Hopefully that selvedge at the fly is only going to be specific to these models.

[itsbenhere]

I agree, i don't like using selvedge everywhere either... the fly is the furthest I'm willing to go. I think for instance using visible selvedge at the coin pocket is worse than a less-than-desirable patch because you have to look at that selvedge whenever you're looking at your jeans.

[clt3]

Damn it's not the best patch in the world but I don't think I'd call it absolute dogshit. But yeah generally the more unnecessary selvedge a jean has the more I dislike it. Coin pocket selvedge is the fucking worst

[setterman]

Just seems to me they did the minimum amount of thought and creativity the could to create the most boring patch possible.  The old one isn't anything wild, but I like it much, much better than the new design.  

[Max Power]

Finally got me a pair of FC as well, couldn't resist them. Size 34 onewash is snug with a waist of 34,5" but I'm sure they'll stretch perfectly. Just the very long inseam (above 36") is bugging me, as I don't want to loose the nice chainstitch I'll probably have to wear a double cuff.




















 

[nycsurfer530]

Full count fabric is notoriously stretchy and will soften immensely. Looks good!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I am so looking forward to this thread in the future!

[oomslokop]

super fit max. the double cuff looks great. seconding b_F, more reason to check this thread in the next 2 years.

Edited August 28, 2016 by oomslokop

[SuperJackle]

My 1101's are probably my favorite fitting pair at the moment. Been wearing them all summer and they're just now starting to get some fading going on. I'd love to see what max can do to a pair.

Edited August 28, 2016 by SuperJackle

[d-rew12]

They look good! And a bit off topic (sorry!), but how of you like the Authentic LX's? Was thinking of grabbing a pair.

[Max Power]

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I try my best to fade them, but wil rotate with the Resolute for a while. The Authentic LX (good eyes) feels a bit heavier and better constructed than normal Vans, but I haven't worn them enough to judge. I got them for half the price of normal Vans, so I didn't think twice. They seem to run slightly bigger than the standard ones as far as I'm concerned.

[d-rew12]

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I try my best to fade them, but wil rotate with the Resolute for a while. The Authentic LX (good eyes) feels a bit heavier and better constructed than normal Vans, but I haven't worn them enough to judge. I got them for half the price of normal Vans, so I didn't think twice. They seem to run slightly bigger than the standard ones as far as I'm concerned.

Haha, I know my vans. But yeah half off, can't go wrong! And good to hear they're a bit bigger because it feels my feet are getting wider...  . But thanks for the advice! Going to grab the dark red pair. 

[jigsaw]

Love the fit so much max, but it will surely be a better if the length shortened a few inch, cause i feel the double cuff look a bit bulky.

[Max Power]

Thank you! I'm wearing them for the first time today, the double cuff works but I'm not sure wether I want to Keep them that way. I prefer the tidier look of hemmed or single cuffed Jeans. On the other Hand, these are one of the few pairs I could wear this way. I might just wear them a few days to see which I prefer. The denim and construction are really lovely btw.

[setterman]

Every jean that's on my radar for future purchase is on Max's too.  

 

IMO, tapered, 1960's 501 inspired cut = no cuff.  I'd lose 4" of inseam.    

[cmo]

Prob is when you lose that much inseam on that model the leg opening is then too wide.

[setterman]

I doubt it (BiG says there's only an inch difference between the knee and ankle on the size 34 OW, so I can't see a hem opening the leg up more than 3/8"), but the easiest way to find out is just fold a big single cuff inward to see what the leg would look like hemmed to the desired length.   

[oomslokop]

i think the cuffs look great. there is something about fc jeans in the standard denim, a combo of the soft denim and the cut maybe, even in the supposedly slimmer 1108, i'm not sure, which makes them look better if worn in a more relaxed way.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I vote for hemming! I hemmed my pair to 33" and the leg opening is still slim enough

[cmo]

I did it with my w33's and it did make a difference. Ended up selling them. Much too wide.

[Max Power]

It doesn make a difference of around 0,5-0,7 cm on my pair. I think the numbers look big on the paper. But as I can't wear the jeans without cuffing I keep the same silhouette, just with a tidier bottom. However, so far I like the double cuff so I won't rush the decision.

[Iron Horse]

Another vote for double cuff; not liking this new no-cuff trend.

[volvo240thebest]

try a folded cuff for a slighty tidier look, and anyway I wouldn't hem either just for the sake of keeping the original chainstitch. fit looks great btw.

[setterman]

not liking this new no-cuff trend.

 

Why not? 

 

I think we've all gotten to the point where we don't need to announce the world "Look at me, I'm wearing selvedge".  And we all realize that a cuff doesn't work with every jean's leg shape, and every pair of shoes or boots we own.  And we all have large enough collections of jeans with different leg shapes, that we can step back and say "what shoes and shirts am I most likely to wear these jeans with?" and hem them to a length that is most flattering for that leg shape, and your body type when worn with those other clothing items.

 

And I think a historical fashion context should be thrown into the mix too.  No point in buying a jean that's heavily influenced by the jeans of a certain decade, and then not wearing them in era's style.  For me, that means my SC47s and WH 1003XX have a decent size double cuff, my WH late 40s 101Z have a medium single cuff, my FC 0105 have a small single cuff, my WH 1001 and LVC 551ZXX are both hemmed for no cuff.  My LVC 47's are also hemmed for no cuff, but that's because IMO that narrower leg shape looks better on me hemmed rather than cuffed.

 

Max's jeans look great as they are. But personally, I think they'd looked better hemmed shorter, especially since he often wears a rather flat soled sneaker, and IMO that type of shoe looks better with a small single cuff or none at all.  And then throw on top of that their 60s shape which was historically worn hemmed (short enough to show ankle during the first half of the decade, which actually suits the type of foot wear he's wearing even better).      

[clt3]

What's with the small single cuff on the FC 0105? Isn't the 50's cut usually accompanied by larger single cuffs or large double folded cuffs where the chain stitch is showing?

[setterman]

I don't know that I've ever seen a vintage photo of anyone wearing the Mister Freedom style double cuff with exposed chain stitch.  

50s denim style can be anything from a big cuff at the beginning of the decade, to floods toward the end, and anything in between.  I wore my 0105s with a large double cuff for a while, and I didn't feel like it suited me or the jeans, so I shortened them up. 

[Iron Horse]

And I think a historical fashion context should be thrown into the mix too.  No point in buying a jean that's heavily influenced by the jeans of a certain decade, and then not wearing them in era's style.

 

I think this is where things can get interesting, though. No point in being slavish towards recreating a certain era's look either, unless the jeans just don't work any other way. Who says a 66 cut can't have a double cuff, or a 47 cut can't be worn with a smaller single cuff? 

 

Something about going off the cuff (if you will) just looks dull to me, though. Like we're wearing mall-brand jeans again. Even the Warehouse guys opt for a small cuff at the least on their jeans.

 

Roll 'em if you've got 'em, guys.

Edited August 31, 2016 by Iron Horse

[nycsurfer530]

This is probably the wrong thread for cuff talk but while its here, I like a cuff for the contrast in colors with the chain stitch and weft and to show off the roping.

[jewellben]

It doesn make a difference of around 0,5-0,7 cm on my pair. I think the numbers look big on the paper. But as I can't wear the jeans without cuffing I keep the same silhouette, just with a tidier bottom. However, so far I like the double cuff so I won't rush the decision.

 

Max what is the hem size on these?

[tchengaa]

hi guys, im considering to buy a pair of 0105. i wonder if there is any major difference between the XX and normal version apart from the weight. and i wear 36 for most jeans (~90 cm in the waist using BiG method), shall i get a pair of 35 (one-washed version) in this case? Cheers