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leather conditioners


mizanation

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this is a thread where people can talk about different leather conditioners. i'm putting it in superdenim cuz the superdenim folks know whatsup.

anyways, currently i have fieblings neatsfoot oil, a tin of mink oil, some leather balm and other various things. after buying all these things, i'm finding out that it's bad for the leather and threads in the long run.

however, i've seen people use these products with beautiful results on their wallets and leather patches. i am not sure if it makes that much of a difference.

i'm sure if i spent a couple grand on a nice leather jacket, i would definitely use something better, but for my leather patches, frye boots and wallets, i'm not sure if i mind.

anyways, all opinions and info are greatly appreciated. :)

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im using some danish leather grease on patch... this works kinda nice, but I reckon that a oil of some sort would be best to do first and then do the greasing afterwards...

its like the grease seals up the leather aswell as giving it moist..

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i've heard from airfrog and others on this forum that neatsfoot oil and mink oil contain petroleum products which harms the leather. also, i've heard that it's not ph balanced which also harms the leather. consequently, they use products like pecard's. only problem is, pecard's is mail order only. maybe if we get enough people in the new york area, we could all do a bulk order?

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I use Sno Seal on the leather patch. Non-acidic, non-petrol based, and doesn't break down cotton thread. It's basically beeswax, and I've been using it to waterproof my winter boots for many years. It's very thick so it works better if heated. I've never found a better protective stuff for leather. It's a pain to put on large surfaces though. So there's Pecard's too:

sc.pecards.sno.seal.jpg

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I like Pecards but for jackets if they're new they DO NOT need any conditioning for YEARS. Pecards has a site. Greg where do you get snow seal? You need to be careful with leather jackets because things like neets foot oil can ruin them because they are not PH ballanced. They can rot thread especially on old jackets that have all cotton threat.

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Obenauf's LP:

http://www.obenaufs.com/apply.php

Take from the site:

"Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative (LP) is for your hard working leather that takes a beating on a daily basis. Whether you are fighting fires, responding to emergency calls, driving truck, herding cattle, hauling timber, or any of the other jobs that require tough leather and tougher people, Heavy Duty LP is the product you are looking for. Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP is the industrial strength leather protection recommended and used by boot companies, hunters, firefighters, construction workers, loggers, and thousands of other satisfied users who need to protect and preserve the leather gear that their lives depend upon.

Obenauf's is a natural miracle protectant for leather and contains no harmful chemicals that can damage your leather. Natural oils are suspended in a Beeswax/Propolis formula. In the leather, these oils gradually seep out of the Beeswax/Propolis as a time release lubrication that restores fibers. If exposed to heat or constant flexing, the oils are released faster; so instead of getting parched, your leather gets oiled when and where it needs it most.

In addition to this remarkable "suspension release" quality, propolis also provides a durable barrier against chemicals and resists bacteria, mold, and mildew. Propolis is an anti-bacterial resin collected by honeybees to waterproof and disinfect their hives. This amazing, all natural substance repels water better and longer than regular water repellants. It even reinforces the surface of your boots against scuffing while still allowing the leather to breathe!

Rub LP into damp or dry leather with your hands. It's natural and temperature sensitive so body temperature will melt it. Or melt it first in a microwave for easier application. It will not sparate. For maximum protection over a longer period, impregnate leather with a double application of LP. Apply and go over your leather with a hair dryer, then do a second coating the same way."

-I use this on my redmoon peacemaker, my SDA wallet, my Frye boots, tanner belt, and various leather items.

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i use a combination of nikwax's waterproofing wax for leather (once a year on boots and shoes), and obenauf's leather oil for jeans patches and footwear touch-ups. nikwax is available at any outdoor goods store (REI, etc.), and i got my obenauf's at the redwing store.

image1_88_en-us.jpgoil_16_framed.gif

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Sythi, you mentioned that you go to "Lush" and use the natural moisturisers on your leather, I have a jacket thats going all dry and light coloured and would like to use something on it to bring its shine, suppleness and water resistence back. Only thing is I had it proofed a year or two ago. Is it still ok to but some moisturiser on it? Also which product from lush do you use? The massage bars?

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I've heard a lot of recommendations for Allen Edmonds' (the shoe company) cleaner & conditioner on some shoe forums.

I think that conditioners are only necessary if there's a significant chance that the leather will dry out. Not so common in new shoes because you're wearing them and the moisture from your feet, alone with outside elements keep them in shape. If you're fussy about the leather tag on your jeans, it might not be a bad idea because they don't have significant protection on them....but personally I'd rather see the tag age naturally.

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so, i guess it's down to obenauf's vs. pecards.

pros and cons, anybody?

Pecards will bring old leather back to life better than anything else I've seen. I have a good friend that has a collection of VERY expensive historic WWII flight jackets most with art on them (nose art) and Pecards is all he uses. The down side to pecards is it takes several days sometimes even weeks to fully soak in but it will soften and bring back dry leather.

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Sythi, you mentioned that you go to "Lush" and use the natural moisturisers on your leather, I have a jacket thats going all dry and light coloured and would like to use something on it to bring its shine, suppleness and water resistence back. Only thing is I had it proofed a year or two ago. Is it still ok to but some moisturiser on it? Also which product from lush do you use? The massage bars?

Hey Viv. Well I was using Lush natural moisturiser as makeshift leather conditioner and somewhat haphazardly shared my good results here and suggest others do the same. I've recently got some nice belts and thought for a moment about taking up leatherworking as a hobby and decided to drown some of my spare time looking into things starting with what is leather ( leart A LOT!!).

In a nut shell, what I've learnt is that now sans of a nervous system to deliver oils, it's now up to the owner of the skin that's been turned into leather to keep moisture levels replenished and at a careful equilibrium with the environment. In other words too little is as bad as too much. Too little causes the fibres to parch and then break, fundamentally affecting the structure of the leather, too much causes the leather to drown and lose its ability to breath. Under these condition it can become succeptible to bacterial rot.

Many so called leather conditioners on the market contain a host of chemicals including petroleum and some synthetic chemicals that soften the leather by actually breaking it's structure down. To boot they break down thread as Airfrog has already suggested. These products give a short term wow factor and long term heartbreak. For this reason I've discontinued using the body moisturiser and turned to Obenaufs after reading many recommendations by fellow SFers, especially DDML.

Obenaufs site says that oils will evaporate with use, via the elements - wind. rain and the sun so you can't just condition then forget about it, it's a continual process akin to regularly shining your shoes I guess. I think this is why leather is forgiving of all these products that apparently harm it, in time the products leave the leather. I suspect however that moisturiser, neatsfoot oil etc. would lead to the leather being extremely unforgiving if used excessively.

I think that conditioners are only necessary if there's a significant chance that the leather will dry out. Not so common in new shoes because you're wearing them and the moisture from your feet, alone with outside elements keep them in shape.

I've read things that contradict this. Obenaufs say it's easier and better to condition leather from new and keep it moisturised than to rescue it later. In context to exercising, someone recently gave me this peice of advice 'if you feel thirsty, you're already dehydrated'. Analogising this to leather, if it looks dry and crackly its already overdue a bit of TLC.

The other thing about your feet giving shoes moisture is, so far as I can discern, not accurate. Your feet provide moisture in the form of perspiration (secreted salts) which is corrosive to clothing, metals and leather. I wont belabour the obvious other than to say when my lips get dry and I subconsciously start to lick them to keep them moisturised, they dry out twice as fast! Things like water and mud actually draw out oils from the leather and accelarate the natural loss.

I think if someone's got a penchant for fine footwear they will most likely buff their shoes to a high shine; it seems as synonymous a feature with fine gentleman's shoes as a selvedge seam is on a pair of jeans - the mark of a connoiseur! I enjoyed reading Greg's shoes shine method passed down by his father in the 'Shoes that look better . .' thread. Once you start to wean yourself onto those kinds of periodic shoe rituals, the shine and the actual care of the leather are mutually exclusive so it's all good.

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Any reccomendations for Cordovan care?

I have read that care for Cordovan leather is significantly different on the Shoes thread and via the 'care' link on the the Alden of Carmel site (well worth a read btw). In summary it seems as the leather from a horses butt has unique qualities, you should only polish them rarely. Over attention can actually degrade the look of the leather. The AOC site has some great advice, it will shed a lot more light! :)

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Great thread, I have been using Lexol (Neatsfoot oil) for a raw leather belt project and also for my ostrich wallet. Ive heard lots of recomenndations for Lexol products, but Synthi's post has got me thinking that I should probably change products if I want my stuff to last (which I do). I'll have to look at the "shoes that look better with age" thread also, as Im look at a pair of Loakes.

Synthi there is rep coming your way.

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While I think that this is a great thread to discuss conditioning leather, I think people tend to get gung ho (sp?) when it comes to treating their very expensive leather goods. Like Airfrog said, You DO NOT want to over treat your leather.

Doing so will clog the pores that naturally makes leather breathable, and will damage the leather more than all the petrol based leather prods. You CAN dmg leather with overapplication of obenauf's/pecards.

One of the reasons they used leather back in the day, especially on the WWII flight jackets was because it was so tough, breathable and would hold up for extended periods of time without treatment.

Keep that in mind, and if you notice your leather looking dry, much like your skin, you should treat it, much like your skin.

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yeah, i was just wondering how leather jackets could be protected.

I got meself one during boxing day. Zara leather for £129 which isnt too bad...

what can it withstand, anyone???

water (i.e. rain spillage), fire and even like smell from gg clubbing (would the smell stick to the jacket)?

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