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Unknown Japanese Brands

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On 7/27/2018 at 2:46 PM, mpukas said:

Not really sure where to put this... not a Japanese brand... 

Does anyone have any experience w/ Paul Kruize? @Foxy2? This is a great vid on his production! 

 

Paul Kruize does beautiful work, he does all the design and tailoring himself. His tailoring, fit and finish are top notch. You send measurements, he makes the shirt/jeans accordingly from a variety of fabrics. Here is his chambray made from medium weight, Sanforized cloth. Details include the cigarette pocket, collar button extension (I forget what it’s called), unusual front shirt placket ending (forget what it’s called too) and generous selvage throughout. I also like the white accents on the cuff plackets, an elegant detail.

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An interesting location for his label, on the outside of the shirt, hidden underneath the collar. He really does fine work!

803196C2-5363-45BF-AF63-E827D395CBEF.thumb.jpeg.0d42980a20791db205ded2d378289cd8.jpeg

 

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His prices for shirts are in line with other custom shirts in Europe.

Edited by JDelage

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Hey JDelage, they “ain’t” cheap but believe me his work is worth it and his shirts of equal quality to the best custom work. Paul is a pleasure to do business with. He is patient and always glad to fit details/extras to your desires. Kind of sorry I noticed mpukas’ post because now I’m corresponding with Paul again! :)

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I'm not arguing that he's overpriced. I'm saying the shirts are in line with other custom makers. As to the price for pants, I don't know one way or the other.

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No problem, just wanted to be clear. :-)

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I understand the need for customization and custom patterns and, as a tailor (and pattern maker), I can appreciate the beauty of hand-made button holes, but as far as jeans are involved I get a kick out of Conners or Bowery Blue Makers and their approach of customizing an originally mass-produced, industrial object.

in the end these are 2 sides of the same coin - customization (and, maybe, a more holistic, sustainable model of consumption).

Edited by Foxy2

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My two cents - I like interesting clothing, especially something hand dyed or custom made that has a back story. For instance, Ai dyed clothing because of the art, work, patience and time required to dye the yarn. Same for custom; as you know better than I do Foxy2, the same applies to custom. Sounds odd, but for me it enhances the pleasure of owning and wearing the clothing.

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What about Deluxe, or Deluxeware? not sure of their exact brand name... I see them at several stores on Rakuten, but haven't seen them discussed here. Their designs and quality look solid. 

Edited by mpukas

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Payday is Friday so I’m going to try out the new Seuvas brand SE is carrying, awesome looking canvas stuff 

seuvas_workshirt_small_01-680x1025.jpgseuvas_workshirt_small_06-1025x680.jpg

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No direct Deluxware experience but Barnstormer always posts awesome pairs of their jeans.

 

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I got close to buying a pair of deluxewear/deluxe on yahoo auctions but narrowly lost. Completely forgot about them but I remember one of the cuts was really nice. 

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I have 4 Deluweware sweatshirts, they are heavyweight and great quality, I highly recommend them.

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Some more Deluxeware fades courtesy of Barnstormer.
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My Deluxeware type 2 (Lot DX402XX).

Really great quality. Pretty much the same thread color throughout but a lot of different stich lengths and thickness of thread.

Pocket flap backing is made out of a lighter weight denim.

Fit is spot on (I’ll get to taking pics of that another day).

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1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I have 4 Deluweware sweatshirts, they are heavyweight and great quality, I highly recommend them.

I concur, super well made and it's holding up extremely well too. I would love to try their jeans, they seem to be quite popular in Japan.

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yeah, that Type II looks great! 

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Picked up the new Seuvas shirt from SE in the mail today, I'm trying to decide if the sleeves are too short or not...
K7fMCdX.jpg
JK9KWoc.jpg

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They look a tad short to me.

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@Broark really nice shirt. Hard to be definite about the sleeves due to the camera angle which makes them look as if slightly short. Shoulders and chest look good. Can you close it at the neck?

I was looking at the Seuvas coverall but SE only have the L so not sure it’ll work.

Have you got an XL? Would be good to know if the measurements are as per online.

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Too short unfortunately Broark, got to be honest about this.

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To short mate, sleeve length is my OCD.

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I appreciate the feedback from everyone, it's a real shame since the shirt fits really well aside from the sleeve length. The fabric is really something else.
@MJF9 this is an XL, I can get you some proper measurements. I could close the top button but I probably never would.
I really like the chore coat as well, and it looks like they've done some for a shop in Japan in some other colors.
Here's another quick photo this morning from a higher angle, I feel like they're just on the verge of too short.
TsjBCl4.jpg

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Broark, sometimes I'm in the same boat so I always use the rule of thumb for XL.  If it says XL, I just consider it to be a L in sizing.

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@mlwdp I usually use that rule of thumb too with a lot of Japanese brands. These sleeves are just short compared to the rest of the shirt. I don’t even have very long arms, but I’m guessing there aren’t many 6’3” Japanese dudes. :D

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This shirt fits like a chore coat.

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You could always wear with the sleeves rolled up!

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That's actually exactly what my girlfriend said. :D

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@Broark the sleeves do look a bit short. A lot of the time the price I paid will determine if I send something back. Being a serial TaoBao shopper, some of the things may end up with shorter sleeves than I would like, especially in the smaller sizes that I need. It's not worth sending back though, so a sleeve roll it may be. 

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