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nappyhead jenkins

Kim Jones F/W '07-'08

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There were a couple of reasons Kim Jones crossed the Atlantic to show in New York this season. First and foremost, there was his ongoing fascination with the convergence of high and low life in the latter days of the Warhol scene, which helped provide the foundation for Jones's new collection—in the way, for example, he transformed basic activewear staples with the help of Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons and new luxe materials like shearling and baby alpaca. Tracksuit couture? Not exactly. The change was more in proportions that saw a baseball jacket elongated to coat length and denim trackpants exploded with multi-pleats, or in the trompe l'oeil layering of a mohair tank over a sweater.

Jones's facility with fashion technology was obvious in the bouclé-like carpet wool he used for a traditional Norfolk jacket. And the futuristic edge that has become something of a signature for him was evident in his vamp on the caban, which combined winter-white shearling and needle cord for a two-textured effect. The wit in Jones's accumulated sportswear wisdom named the coat "Transformer" in honor of Warholite, Lou Reed. (Another "Transformer" jammed white and navy shearling together in a big cozy overshirt.) And there was surely sly humor in the plushy polar effect of the white teddy-bear-fur all-in-one sported by eternally bashful Canadian, Ryan Taylor.

Oh, and the other reason why Jones crossed the pond? It was purely commercial—it's about time he had a bigger stage. In which light, mention must be made of his casting for the show. His crew of teen pugilists might actually be that Holy Grail in fashion: a New Look.

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Kim Jones stuff seems really hit and miss to me. I'm feeling this collection though. I like how he keeps the same basic color scheme but with very unique tailoring. I recently aquired some of his older mainline pieces and I really like the way they're cut. It's some unique stuff, easily up there with Raf Simons and the like.

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very hit or miss, but the hits are pretty fantastic.

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I was there lastnight, & liked the collection overall..... big props to models under 5'5 tall.... & Fergie sighting from Black Eyed Pea's.....

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Is it just me or does Kim Jones make THE ugliest silhouette ever?

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kinda liked the older stuff better.. the new sneakers are weak too.

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