Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Guest Guy H

"21 Oz/" Selvedge Denim

Recommended Posts

Guest Guy H

Sorry if this has been asked before etc...

With regards to the 'weight' when denim is quoted what exactly is it refering to? I presume it's the weight of the thread used? Is this the case?

also what is considered the best then? I've seen 14 Oz mentioned etc. What would be considered better 14 or 21? For what reasons? or what are the benefits of the weight?

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Denim is usually measured by "Ounce per square yard". So 21oz is how much a square yard of that particular fabric would weight unwashed.

After washing fabrics often get heavier, despite perhaps losing sizing and dye during wash, because the shrinkage causes the weave to become more dense and thus gain weight (per square yard/metre).

14oz versus 21oz - there is no better fabric per se. It all depends on your application. 21oz will be stronger, but also heavier, stiffer, harder to sew, possibly more expensive and depending on climate, less comfortable. In hot climates, 8-12oz may be preferable to 14oz. It just depends what you need.

I think the fact that 14oz is such a commonly used weight shows that it's been a proven jack-of-all-trades over decades of use.

Edited by ringring on Jul 20, 2005 at 07:01 AM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

Thanks ringring, great explaination. all clear now.

Looking at some Iron Heart 21 Oz Jeans and wanted to know how they would wear......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm told by owners of 21oz jeans, that they 'feel like wearing leather trousers'. I've not yet seen the Iron Hearts first hand, but I have handled the 21oz's from Studio D'Artisan numerous times, and yes they are heavy, but not as intimidating as I'd imagined. Good, tough, cold weather jeans.

I like the Iron Hearts. Worth a punt I'd say. If you get some, keep us posted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

emailed the guy who's bringing them to the Uk.

few links...

http://www.works-corp.com/iron/others/index.html

I like the jacket as well.

I'd go for the straight cut ones.

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.works-corp.com%2Firon%2Ftwenty_one%2Findex.html&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

Yeah they would be for wear in the winter over here.

I'll let you know how I go on icon_smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

guffer, I'm waiting to hear back mate. He posted the info on fuk.

will let you know when I get a reply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Denim seems to be getting a reputation for being 'better' the heavier it is, but I can tell you that constuction matters more. The first Levis were 9oz ecru selvege, the Cone Levis shortly after were 10oz reds. When Levis was doing their famous 1947 501 silouette, Wrangler had their 13oz MWZ.

21 oz could be pretty amazing, but so could 10, 14,13 and so on...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to add to the discussion about denim weights - 21oz is very much bucking the global trend, which in recent years has been a return* towards lighter weight denims (10-12oz). eg. 45rpm's 9.5oz BG4000 denim range.

Actually 'bucking' may be an understatement. More like giving it the bird lol. And that's what makes them interesting.

*early Levi's selvage denims were 9 & 10oz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never heard of a 21 oz jean. I know that Levi Strauss used a 16 oz. denim to create some of his first jeans at the turn of the 20th century.

21 oz. would be some heavy stuff like wearing cement on your thighs!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say that right now, 12.5 oz. is the most popular weight right now among most denim mills, but a LOT of mills are starting to show 14oz. more and more, with an occassional 16oz. here and there....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when amoskeag milled levis denim they produced 9oz ecru selvage. cone came around and put out the 10oz redline that we all know. lee had some 13oz for their 'riders', the boken twill wranglers of the 'mw' generation were 13s too...

myself i've never actually seen a 21 oz denim, but now that its a topic i'd certainly like too..

i'll agree with blanco and everyone that said similar things, that mid-weights are the most popular - both now and before

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thats one of the thing i didn't like about the slew of designer jeans out there. most of them like seven, paper denim etc use 12 oz and it doesn't drape as well on me as the thicker stuff does.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sbbjm:

A thicker denim would drape LESS than than a lighter weight denim.

I.E. a 9oz. denim would be MUCH "drapier" than say a 13oz. fabric.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, all i know is my fave diesels are made of a thicker denim than my old pair of sevens and paper denims -- and i like the way my diesels look on my arse WAY better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would imagine 21 oz denim to be overkill. I guess they would be OK if I lived in Alaska, but in California you would probably be very uncomfortable in those jeans.

I agree that lighter denim is "drapier" and left hand twill"lee" is drapier. I like starchy and stiff jeans, 12-13 oz suit me just fine.

Carpe Denim!

1112885282366_selvage1_edited.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

I've had a quote from the guy who can supply these jeans but he is waiting for them to come in. He is also going back to Japan soon so depending on the timing I may have to wait for them. He has quoted me a price for them so I think I'll get a pair to see what they are like. I'll report back if people are interested?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've also ordered a pair to add to my collection. Can't wait to get them but as you say it sounds like it's going to be some time. icon_smile_sad.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do most of the denim brands announce the thickness of their denim? i understand and recognize that pdc and perhaps other designer brands have are thinner, but what about apc, lvc etc?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want a drapier denim, but don't want to sacrifice weight, I would go with a LHT, like Serge said. A left hand twill is inherently softer and drapier than a RHT. Left Hands were really trending for a season or two (Gap's ad campaign in JP and Europe/UK was all about "left-hand, right-softness" or some bullshit like that), but have seemed to be waning now....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

left-hand is less resistant, ? I don't like anything less than 12oz, because it rips too easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't ever heard of 21oz jean either. I thought they didn't make it heavyer up tp 15oz..

I would love the have a selvage jeans heavyer than 14oz, but I wouldn't know where to get those..

I looked at the link, those 21oz jeans sure look allright! Not very comfort but that will come with the years don't you think?

denim is a passion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

I'm waiting to hear from the guy who will sell me these. He's in Japan at the minute so I'll get mine when he gets back. once i do I'll post my opinion and can hook you up with his details if required.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Guy H

He should be back soon. final price to be sorted. will post info once I have it

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Luisa via Roma (US)
    Privilege Program