SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[machine-language]

How many inches should I expect Momotaro 8005SP to stretch in the waist when it's fully broken in?  thank you in advance

[midnite9]

Looking for fits close to PBJ 012s that don't have the ridiculous waist stretch. I tried out momo bom008s and they are a little more roomier than I want, plus the rise is so short my balls can't breathe.

[MikeS]

Can anyone direct me to some smaller Japanese companies making nice flannels? Stuff that cant be found at places like Selfedge. I found an online shop this past summer with a few that i loved and now i can not find the bookmark. Thaks in advance!

[chicote]

UES is the first that comes to mind, nice designs, exceptional construction and relatively inexpensive.

[Iron Horse]

Warehouse.

[pudaspriest]

Definitly UES and Warehouse, both make awesome flannels, I especially love UES. Some others --- Jelado, Deluxewear, Heller's cafe, Freewheelers, fullcount, Westride, Pherrow's, Cushman, samurai, dubbleworks, fob factory, copper king. 

 

I haven't seen all these in person but have come across them searching through rakuten. 

[mikecch]

I like the fabrics from TFH & Warehouse the best. Cushman & Deluxewear also pretty nice, but harder to come by outside Japan.

[Geeman]

UES heavy flannels are great, lots of colour options and if it helps western sizing.

[psykx]

I'm looking for some relaxed heavily tapered heavy (15oz+ ) selvedge jeans. Something like the heavy nudie jeans but in a slubbier/neppier/rougher fabric.

 

Got any suggestions? Full count 1109 seem close, samurai don't make anything tapered enough that I've seen. I'll be wearing with trainers and small turn ups, maybe light stacking, if that makes any difference. 

 

I'd be particularly interested in fits available (only) in japan, but I'm aware I'm asking a lot. 

[SuperJackle]

Strike gold maybe?

[Geeman]

Oni 512?

[FeloniousMonk]

Samurai just launched the S0511XX model, which may be what you're looking for (big top block, plenty of thigh room, aggressive lower taper).  Flat Head 3012 is another very extreme version of that cut, and just hits your 15 oz cutoff. They both look a bit carrot-like, with close high-cut waists above a large top block and narrowing to the ankle, so you'll want to try on a one-wash and see if it's appealing to you in person.

 

If you're ok with sanforized fabrics, the Charles Atlas cut from Left Field is a really nice blend of roomy hip/thighs and plenty of taper without looking too carrot-like. I've had my eye on their Collect Mills 18oz Heavy Slub jeans for a while, and it sounds like it fits the bill.

 

Japan Blue's Hi Tapered fit would probably be another option. They've come out with a lot of ultra-slubby fabric options lately, one of which was recently reviewed in the Momotaro / Japan Blue thread (sometime in the last 2-4 pages).

[ALB]

Anyone know any place/brand that sells something simliar to SDA's natural indigo jacket? Think it looks fantastic and love how the white comes through.

 

https://blueingreensoho.com/collections/studio-dartisan/products/d4385ai-2nd-jacket?variant=20901822465

[Niro]

Anyone know any place/brand that sells something simliar to SDA's natural indigo jacket? Think it looks fantastic and love how the white comes through.

 

https://blueingreensoho.com/collections/studio-dartisan/products/d4385ai-2nd-jacket?variant=20901822465

 

Pure Blue Japan do one

http://rivetandhide.com/shop/brands/pure-blue-japan/pbj-natural-indigo-denim-jacket.html?___store=default

 

I was thinking of buying it a while ago

[ALB]

Yeah, saw that one as well at BiG, but maybe it's the pics, it doesn't nearly look as interesting/slubby as the SDAs. Which after thinking about it maybe I'm looking for a slubby denim jacket instead.

[fryingpan]

So I recently bought my first unsanforized pair of jeans (always bought one wash or saforized). I was wondering if a 45 min hot soak would take most of the shrinkage out or is a longer hot soak required? I'd like to avoid the dryer. I did a search on it in this thread and someone said a 3 hour soak would do the trick, but I'm wondering if this is true. Thanks in advance!

[itsbenhere]

It may or may not get out all the shrink. Why not turn inside out and wash it? No downsides that way, and you'll not have to worry about if its all shrunk or not, it will be.

 

Also faster than 3 hours!

[tigerstrom]

I agree with itsbenhere. Just wash them inside out in the washingmachine!

[BEEFCAKES]

how do u guys prevent crotch blow out? 

 

i get them within 6months and they're usually bad with a giant hole. i went to my tailor and he said my thighs touch when i walk? makes sense.

i've tried sizing up and staying away from skinny but still get it.

[tigerstrom]

Wash them frequently often help to prevent blow outs.

[FeloniousMonk]

Plus, some people are just more prone to blowouts than others due to build, walking gait, etc. I tend to find the inner thigh of my jeans wear out a bit faster than some on these boards even on my looser jeans, despite being a frequent washer. Comes with the territory, I'd say, as these problems would almost certainly arise if I tried to wear any other type of trouser for 150-200 days within a year.

[Cold Summer]

I've never had a crotch blowout, but the top thigh is never tight in my jeans, even slim fits (like Flat Head BSP and 1001, 3Sixteen ST, Samurai S710, etc.) so that probably helps.

[d-rew12]

Might be kind of a dumb question and is more shirt related, but what is the difference between say a twill work shirt and a flannel? I have my eye on the Studio D'Artisan shirt http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/vintage/item/sd5569a-16fw/?s-id=borderless_recommend_item_ko, and the Sugar Cane shirt http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/hinoya/item/sc27118a/. For the sugar cane shirt, I've seen it reference as a flannel on some websites and some website says work shirt (one site just calls it a heavy weight plaid shirt), and Self edge say both.

 

The reason I ask is because when talking to denimio (for the Studio shirt) the guy tried to make it clear the Studio D'Artisan shirt was not a flannel  but a work shirt and that the fabric is different. Honestly it looks like flannel fabric. I originally thought that a work shirt was just a style but now I am kind of unsure. I was mainly looking for a lighter weight flannel say similar to what you can buy at most clothing stores (not heavyweight stuff). 

Edited October 14, 2016 by d-rew12

[Geeman]

If it helps I have two of those SDA flannel shirts from last years run. Very nice mid weight flannels.

Work shirt usually refers to the styling to differentiate from western shirts? Sizing: SDA Large is a UK medium.

[d-rew12]

If it helps I have two of those SDA flannel shirts from last years run. Very nice mid weight flannels.

Work shirt usually refers to the styling to differentiate from western shirts? Sizing: SDA Large is a UK medium.

That's generally what I thought as well, but the guy from Denimio want to make it very clear they were different, saying the fabric was rougher? So it made me a bit confused. From the close-up pics it looks like a flannel. the measurements are pretty spot on so was going to make the plunge but got cold feet.

[Geeman]

If you want a mid weight flannel, it's a good call. The difference from Denimios view is that it's not heavy and so brushed inside.

Anyway, the link shows a great looking shirt.

[d-rew12]

If you want a mid weight flannel, it's a good call. The difference from Denimios view is that it's not heavy and so brushed inside.

Anyway, the link shows a great looking shirt.

Ah that would make sense. I'm not a huge fan of heavy flannels so it sounds pretty perfect. You're giving me hope again, thanks for the help!

[Iron Horse]

Might be kind of a dumb question and is more shirt related, but what is the difference between say a twill work shirt and a flannel? I have my eye on the Studio D'Artisan shirt http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/vintage/item/sd5569a-16fw/?s-id=borderless_recommend_item_ko, and the Sugar Cane shirt http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/hinoya/item/sc27118a/. For the sugar cane shirt, I've seen it reference as a flannel on some websites and some website says work shirt (one site just calls it a heavy weight plaid shirt), and Self edge say both.

The reason I ask is because when talking to denimio (for the Studio shirt) the guy tried to make it clear the Studio D'Artisan shirt was not a flannel but a work shirt and that the fabric is different. Honestly it looks like flannel fabric. I originally thought that a work shirt was just a style but now I am kind of unsure. I was mainly looking for a lighter weight flannel say similar to what you can buy at most clothing stores (not heavyweight stuff).

I think this stems from the fact that people often mistakenly refer to any shirt with a plaid pattern as a flannel.

Flannel can be made from a twill weave but it has to be napped/brushed to be made soft before it's a true flannel. Otherwise it's a twill shirt with a plaid pattern, but I guess it's easier to market that as a "flannel" shirt. Sometimes they're listed as unbrushed flannel. Some brands will also brush one side of the twill fabric only so that the inside of the shirt is soft but the outside keeps the un brushed look. Semi-flannel?

Anyway they're both good shirts, but if people say "nice flannel shirt" it's a judgment call on whether or not you want to tell them that it's actually an unbrushed twill shirt with a plaid pattern.

[kbuzz]

How do you all decide whether to hem or cuff...

[d-rew12]

I think this stems from the fact that people often mistakenly refer to any shirt with a plaid pattern as a flannel.

Flannel can be made from a twill weave but it has to be napped/brushed to be made soft before it's a true flannel. Otherwise it's a twill shirt with a plaid pattern, but I guess it's easier to market that as a "flannel" shirt. Sometimes they're listed as unbrushed flannel. Some brands will also brush one side of the twill fabric only so that the inside of the shirt is soft but the outside keeps the un brushed look. Semi-flannel?

Anyway they're both good shirts, but if people say "nice flannel shirt" it's a judgment call on whether or not you want to tell them that it's actually an unbrushed twill shirt with a plaid pattern.

 

Thanks for the insight! Makes much more sense now. But sadly the XL (of the Studio D'artisan shirt) sold out in the last like 12 hours. Fuck.