SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Maynard Friedman]

I take it this new service has no connection to the now defunct Dodgy Double 0's Dastardly Denim Dungaree Darning Drop-off (best service east o' the Pennines)?

[Double 0 Soul]

According to BBC,s Rogue Traders, Companies House has a "Mrs 0'Soul" registered as director for both companies, I think she must be Irish.

[DDDm]

Just came across this in a Hong Kong forum  , posted by someone just visited McCoy's Store in Tokyo

"How to wash rigid denim(1st wash) guide " by The Real McCoy (ENG)....short & precise

 

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[DDDm]

No expert here.. but I thought how much the leg twist after the first wash/soak varies with different denim and how hard the shop/brand prepare their one-washed jean. I've an one-washed jean with outseam well past the midline of my leg when I first put it on(...the inseam sit right in the middle of the comb )

 

What The Real McCoy guide suggests is more or less in line with what Hayashi-San(old Denime/now Resolute Head) taught

JUN MATSUMOTO(member of a popular JPop boy group) how to prepare a raw denim on a TV show in Japan....He even advised against turning the denim inside out in the first wash. He loves those wrinkle/crease/fading from the spinning cycle of the washing machine

 

http://blog.xuite.net/liubonnie/new/59094492-%E9%81%94%E4%BA%BA%E6%8C%87%E5%B0%8E%E6%9D%BE%E6%9C%AC%E6%BD%A4~%22%E7%97%9B%E5%BF%AB%E7%9A%84%E6%B4%97%E7%89%9B%E4%BB%94%E8%A4%B2%E5%90%A7%EF%BC%81%22

 

 

 

Edited August 25, 2013 by DDDm

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[setterman]

I'll tell you one thing I've noticed, in a number of shop/brand one-washed / pre-washed models the degree of leg twist seems significantly less than images here where people have bought raw, done the soak/agitation or wash themselves and left to hang dry. 

 

I can't help wondering if the immediate dryer cycle following wash (and spin! that goes against popular opinion, ha!), drying the denim significantly quicker in some way serves to reduce that twist.

It doesn't. OW jeans, at least in my experience with my Warehouse 700s, aren't completely done shrinking, and have a tiny bit to go. If you're seeing jeans on sufu that appear more twisted, it's probably because they've been in water a few times and are done.

No getting around leg twist hoggy (even my sanforized WarehouseXLees twisted, with a hot wash and trip though the dryer), just have to learn to embrace it. Like selvedge, cinch backs, and crotch rivets, it's one of the cool traits of the jeans here.

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[jmfr]

apologies in advanced if this is a dumb question...

 

anyone ever feel that the crotch of their jeans was too high? its weird because the legs from the BiG thigh measurement down are great. The waist is also a bit tight on these jeans, I was gonna stop by harbor freight to get the tools to make "The Gizmo."

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151033/the-gizmo-denim-stretching-waist

 

think opening up the waist might help settle down the rest of the top block? Oh I think the front rise is like 11.25"

 

edit- just in case anyone asks about this in the future (probably wont happen) i went ahead and did this... waist is more comfortable, i think i stretched it nearly an inch but I was stupid and forgot before measuremtnts. it helped with the crotch in that the looser waist sags a little, but didnt cure the problem. overall glad i did it.

 

edit 2- does anyone think a normal tailor can "lower" the crotch? I emailed Denim Therapy and they said Id need to come in person, which I cant.

Edited August 28, 2013 by jmfr

[tmadd]

It doesn't. OW jeans, at least in my experience with my Warehouse 700s, aren't completely done shrinking, and have a tiny bit to go. If you're seeing jeans on sufu that appear more twisted, it's probably because they've been in water a few times and are done.

No getting around leg twist hoggy (even my sanforized WarehouseXLees twisted, with a hot wash and trip though the dryer), just have to learn to embrace it. Like selvedge, cinch backs, and crotch rivets, it's one of the cool traits of the jeans here.

 

I'm sure a lot of you have already read this, but there is an absolutely fantastic post on loomstate.co.uk dealing with all of the different things that are at play with leg twist.  My greatest takeaway from reading it was a confirmation of what my feelings about leg twist already were, which is that it's something that you can't begin to predict, and the same model of the same jean with all the same treatment could have radically different twist, so it's just another factor that truly makes each well worn pair of jeans unique.  

 

I hate how the fibres break at the edges of the doublecuff at a certain point of not having washed the jeans. It just doesn't look clean.

Has anybody an idea to avoid this? maybe just soaking the part of the double cuff?

 

I agree with you on it not looking clean.  The easiest way to mitigate this problem, and at least make it take longer to happen would be to wash your jeans from time to time and cuff them at a slightly different place when you do.  If that is something you can't be brought around on, the next best thing would be to change your cuffs slightly from time to time so you don't have a sharp crease sitting at the same point for months on end.  I've never experimented with it, but the idea of just soaking a specific part of a jean really seems to me like it'd do more to mess with the structural integrity of the jean that help it.  Plus if you're keeping the same crease in the same place, thats not really going to change the stress on it.

[stingray1381]

Cross post from the RJB thread. I bought a pair of RJB 105 BSPs in a size 36 based on the shrinkage expected after a soak. I have not gotten the same amount of shrinkage as advertised, and the jeans are a little looser around the waist and legs than I would like. I have already hot soaked them once in the and hot washed them in the machine without soap to get some agitation. Should I soak them again and dry them in the dryer? I have never dried my raw jeans in the dryer, so, if drying is the right approach, what should the settings be? Any insight is appreciated.

[setterman]

I've got a pair of size 38 105s.  IIRC, they didn't shrink as hard as some of the other Japanese brands I have, so I'm pretty sure after two dunks in hot water, you've probably got the majority of the shrinkage out.  If you want to try, you can wash on hot, and then throw them in the dryer on hot (all of this with the jeans inside out).  

 

Great jean BTW. If they had an inch more front and back rise, and an inch less in the waist, they'd be my #1 pair of jeans.       

[PhillyFresh]

which denim is most similar to Eternal and Momotaro? I really want either one of these two but, the cuts are just a tad slim at the knee or the rise is just too small.

 

The most ideal models ive found for myself so far have been the Warehouse 1001, 700 and 1000 but, I was so much more set on Momo or Eternals.

 

any suggestions?

[Maynard Friedman]

Flat Head 3XXX denim is very similar to Eternal, so you may want to look at the 3005.

As for Momo, have you looked at the 0901 vintage label. I have them and they are certainly not slim at the knee or low rise. The 15.5oz XX Fullcount denim may be similar as the weight is almost the same as the 15.7oz Momo and both use Zimbabwean cotton.

[PhillyFresh]

Flat Head 3XXX denim is very similar to Eternal, so you may want to look at the 3005.

As for Momo, have you looked at the 0901 vintage label. I have them and they are certainly not slim at the knee or low rise. The 15.5oz XX Fullcount denim may be similar as the weight is almost the same as the 15.7oz Momo and both use Zimbabwean cotton.

 I had the 3005 before but I couldn't stand the fit, rise was hurting and thighs were tight.

 the only reference I have is the size chart on OkayamaDenim, and a 10.6 rise is a tad small. I have FH3009 and the rise is just under 11' and I find it slightly uncomfortable. Though I have to sell my FH because the waist is too big. 

The 1005sp look most appealing but, size charts on Okayama and TateandYoko for sz.30 differ. So i gotta see what's up with that.

 

If all else fails, Warehouse will be my choice.

[JohnathanI]

Hi guys, I've searched the site and list of retailers before I posted this, but does anybody know if http://www.and-japan.com/ is a legit site? I've been looking at a getting some Studio D'artisan 107s or some Skull 5010xx and they're cheaper than anywhere else I've seen too (especially on the SDAs) with free delivery to the UK. I'm tempted to buy, but it seems too cheap on them (SDAs at $230 with free shipping as opposed to $285 at BiG with $40 shipping).

Thanks a lot

[beautiful_FrEaK]

They are legit as hell!

bought 3 times from them. and why too cheap? they sell for the regular Japanese retail price and the Yen is low at the moment.

BiG is of course more expensive as they have to import the jeans to the US before they sel. It will always be cheaper to buy directly from the source. But be aware that returns might be more difficult

[JohnathanI]

They are legit as hell!

bought 3 times from them. and why too cheap? they sell for the regular Japanese retail price and the Yen is low at the moment.

BiG is of course more expensive as they have to import the jeans to the US before they sel. It will always be cheaper to buy directly from the source. But be aware that returns might be more difficult

Ok, that's great, I'll order this afternoon. When shops in the UK sell SDAs at £100 more than this site I was sceptical but you're reassured me, thanks. And I gather returns would be difficult but I have measured 4 of my favourite pairs I already have to arrive at what measurements I want. Thanks again

[aso2004]

Anyone know where i can tlay my hands on  a pair of Sugar Cane Hawaii in a 36??

 

nvm , found it..

Edited September 3, 2013 by aso2004

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[__3xL]

Isn't selvage only loomable up to 36" length max . .

 

Even if only a half selvage pair of jawns one half is , so therefore how is a 40" length possible example being these Earnest Sewn *in dire need of a proper chainstitch to complete them

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

erm...the selvage is at both edges of the roll and the role can be as long as the loom weaves the denim. It's true that the width of the of selvage denim on a shuttle loom is limited. But all this doesn't affect the length of the jeans. they can be as long as you want them to be

[__3xL]

erm...the selvage is at both edges of the roll and the role can be as long as the loom weaves the denim. It's true that the width of the of selvage denim on a shuttle loom is limited. But all this doesn't affect the length of the jeans. they can be as long as you want them to be

 I'm missing something here

[beautiful_FrEaK]

yeah you are missing that selvage denim is limited in its width but not in its length.

 

edit: or I just don't get what you want

Edited September 4, 2013 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Maynard Friedman]

The width of a roll of shuttle-loomed selvage denim is usually only around 29" I believe, possibly up to 36" as BF says, however, these things are many yards long. As the legs are cut along the length of the roll and not across the width, they can be as long as the roll itself. Hopefully that explains it, otherwise I don't know what you're asking!

[exaptavist]

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Edited October 10, 2015 by hoggreaser

[bradl]

Wondering if I could get a little help on trying to track down a pair of engineer boots. I love the pair finn has, lone wolf ones, but not really wanting to fork over the amount that he would have paid. Don't know a lot of boot brands besides the obvious. Not sure what a reasonable amount would be for a pair of engineer boots.

[Double 0 Soul]

If you pay jp retail Lone Wolf Engineers offer one of the best bang for bucks out there, they are very reasonably priced, You will have to fork out more money for their peers... Lofgren, Road Champs, ect

imo you will be better off saving up for a good pair of engineers rather than buying what you can afford now, they will be worthy of the investment.

[bradl]

I guess I was mistaking Lone Wolf and another boot company, seeing a price of $550 isn't near as bad as what I was thinking. I am assuming historypreservation would be able to help me out with my sizing.

[Double 0 Soul]

They are an E fitting and run between half and a full size big.