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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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The Flathead THC  everytime. One of the best ts out there,  boxy fit, hold shape forever, wash well and reasonably priced when purchased from a Japanese seller. Still worth the  one you'd pay at a US or European retailer though if try and return is a condition.  

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9 hours ago, Geeman said:

The Flathead THC  everytime. One of the best ts out there,  boxy fit, hold shape forever, wash well and reasonably priced when purchased from a Japanese seller. Still worth the  one you'd pay at a US or European retailer though if try and return is a condition.  

I'll check 'em out, thanks! The triple-stitched collar looks fantastic.

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8 minutes ago, JDelage said:

What is the consensus on Shockoe Atelier? Yay or nay?

I don't own any of their jeans but they seem decent. The measurements for the standard kojima are perfect for me. But, i'm on a denim buying hiatus because I simply don't have enough legs to wear all the jeans in my closet.

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1 hour ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

Anyone have an idea of who offers chain stitch hemming in a narrower/TCB style width?

 

Kurt Chen at Faith Co. in Taipei does the closest I've seen to TCB/Sugar Cane factory hemming. Might send him a DM on Instagram.

 

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On 8/12/2019 at 9:23 PM, JDelage said:

What is the consensus on Shockoe Atelier? Yay or nay?

I bought a pair of slim como ~3 years ago. Great construction and fine denim. Really enjoyed them for a time, but   outgrew that particular fit. Don't know about their other products, but I would expect them being quite nice! 

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@maharu  @JDelage I've been wearing some of the "military trousers" with patch pockets (is that what these are?) in the como fabric.  super soft.  love them.  make a lot of other brands look like garbage honestly. dense stitching, raised belt loops, custom rivets that are painted black and wear in to show the copper, fully lined herringbone pockets.  here are some old pics i took sometime last year.  they've lightened up a bit since then.  you can kinda see the copper ont he pocket rivet.  the insides the paint is just starting to really rub off to show some copper on the edges. 

https://imgur.com/a/eR2oPvf

i would put these construction-wise in the category of "nothing is better than these, just different".  they source their fabrics from italy and japan i think.  the more i type the more interesting i think the brand is...american but italian tailoring/sensibility with italian and japanese fabrics.  so mayb ewhere they fall short is that they don't to my knowledge have their own fabrics...and nothing straight repro if that's what you looking for

Edited by effdatnoise
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Hi Guys , im the owner of indonesian denim brand WARPWEFT COMPANY, as i already ask last year about the Relax Tapered / High Tapered fit jeans.

I already did some trial for this new cuts. It is quite confusing to do the size grading to a smaller size as the size chart around the web is quite different from each other.

I'm using Tanuki High Tapered and Japan Blue Dog Days as a references...

What i want to ask is, Ironheart 888 have a very high front rise measurement if compared to my references above. Ironheart 888 have 11.5" front rise at size 32 when compared to 10.5" front rise at Tanuki and JapanBlue Dogdays. So, while i cannot find a model to confirm this matter (a 185-195cm model with a bigger western build). As for the backrise, i can find someone with a fuller butt cheek to test it out , so i already decide a 15.25inch back rise for a 32inch waist size.

Can you guys give me a good input regarding this front rise measurement annd give me your thought and experience?

Because i found out that several western denimhead want to buy my jeans but find it that the measurement did not accomodate their body.

 

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As a Westerner with a bigger build I would say a 15.25" back rise on a 32" waist is not very high.

I'm a 34-35" waist and I like my back rise between 15-16" for a medium rise.
If you want to give the customer more room, so a relaxed/high taper, a back rise of 16" for a size 32 is probably more the way to go.

If you need Western guys to try your jeans, I'm quite sure there will be volunteers around the forums. Either here or better reddit's raw denim sub.

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7 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

As a Westerner with a bigger build I would say a 15.25" back rise on a 32" waist is not very high.

I'm a 34-35" waist and I like my back rise between 15-16" for a medium rise.
If you want to give the customer more room, so a relaxed/high taper, a back rise of 16" for a size 32 is probably more the way to go.

If you need Western guys to try your jeans, I'm quite sure there will be volunteers around the forums. Either here or better reddit's raw denim sub.

Hi sir , wow thanks for the input.

I dont think i want to go as high as LeftField Charles Atlas or Ironheart 888 , because i think it might be too high for reguler westerner.

For the room at the top block , actually i am trying something with the pattern shape, and hips/seat measurement...

If 15.25" at size 32 means the backrise measurement will be around 16inch at size 35 (my jeans have a true to label waist measurement)

 

Yeah , actually im thinking when the prototype is done, i want to ask someone from this forum to help me try it. Actually i need someone with size 32/33 waist and the 28/29 one.

Just to check the measurement from small, medium and large size is properly graded..

 

Reddit is a little bit hard for me to understand, even some peoples said that Reddit might be the better forum to share thought and to gain awareness, but i think i'll choose SUFU for the higher level of credibility and experiences...

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I usually go for a 33-34-ish waist. I have a pair of Indigofera Buck that I think of as a really nise high tapered fit, in size 31. They are sanforized but shrunk up a little but with washing. From wash they have these measurements (appr. raw measurements)

Waist 32,5" (32,5")

Front rise 11,5" (12")

Back rise 15,5" (16")

I think the most important thing when making a high tapered cut is choosing the right leg opening. Most of the fits you see online have an incredibly small leg opening. The leg opening of this pair are 7,7" inches hemmed to 30", which is really sweet.

Reading what @beautiful_FrEaK  answered before, this is basically the same.

Good luck @ZoaldeycK

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@maharu

Thanks for your input sir.

Cause my brand is heavily influenced by Japanese Denim, then i usually check out the most modern Japanese Denim such as Momotaro, JB and Tanuki which i think did a very great work to be able to enter EU and US market by providing a cut that represent them.

That is why i rarely saw an American / EU brand's sizing, another reason is, i got confused with their size charts. Let's take a look at the Buck Jeans you mention, the front rise measurement is the same at 31,32 and 33 (based on Standard and Strange sizing at their website), then only increased by 0,25" at size 35 and 36.

Maybe i am still not at the level to understand their size grading for each size, because for the past 8 years, what i always did and learn is that the front rise should have around 0,25" diffrences at each size... Same goes with leg opening that only have 0,25" differences between size 32 and size 36..

I am really willing to learn from you guys that i am sure is way more experienced at how a good relax tapered fit should.

~~~~~~~

For the leg opening , i always thought this model is coming because of the streetwear and sneakers trend , so people is not wearing much slim straight anymore cause they want to show their 500$ Limited edition sneakers. So i draw my relax tapered measurement 7" at size 32 (36" inseam), and 8" at size 36 (36" inseam). I guess it will around 0,25" wider at 30" inseam.

 

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