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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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16 hours ago, Spiraltoy said:

So, this might be a stupid question but roping, what’s the science behind it? To get the best result, should you hem before shrinking a pair of STF jeans or has it more to do with how the chain stitching machine is set up and the competence of the operator?

The past years I have (like many others) been drawn more to roping, puckering, train tracks and leg twist and more subtle fades as opposed to crazy nep, slubs and heavy weight denim.

I think the science behind it is that the hem stitch is not in balance, the upper and lower parts gets twisted as they go through the sewing machine. Like the denim on the bottom side of machine is ahead of the denim on the upper side (let's say by 1/4") as it's fed through the machine and stitched. When the hem fabric gets folded, it gets a little bulky, and it helps create this imbalance. How the sewing machine is calibrated also helps create the imbalance. The sewing operator can keep it more in balance or create more imbalance depending on how the handle the hem as it goes through machine - they can tug on it. Then once washed, the twisting tension increases. Hope that made sense.

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On 2/15/2019 at 2:08 PM, Spiraltoy said:

So, this might be a stupid question but roping, what’s the science behind it? To get the best result, should you hem before shrinking a pair of STF jeans or has it more to do with how the chain stitching machine is set up and the competence of the operator?

The past years I have (like many others) been drawn more to roping, puckering, train tracks and leg twist and more subtle fades as opposed to crazy nep, slubs and heavy weight denim.

From what I have read, I believe the hem will rope better if the pair is hemmed to your length prior to first water exposure. 

It makes sense, as first water exposure is when a majority of the shrinking takes place. 

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20 minutes ago, eeejayaich said:

If you’re cool with a double knee, I think Grease Points would fit the bill. 

Those are good pants.

Wish they made them a bit wider leg to allow bending down without restriction.

Anyone know a double-knee manufacturer that carries the double knee all the way to the beltline?

 

 

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Edited by Pedro
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Things I’ve found and that I’ll probably buy:

Realthing mod vest

Realthing pile jacket

Yuketen rocker blutchie (copy obvi)

Bob dong shorts and baseball tshirt.

Still looking for:

Chup like socks, Suicoke sandals, Master-piece shoulder bag, Moonstar all weather sneakers, Visvim FBT.

on the topic, has anyone tried anything from Non stock?

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Does anyone have email contact info for Toyo/Sugar Cane? I’d like to weasel a new snake patch out of them for my Oki Rainbow jeans but their website is in Japanese and other Google searches lead to sellers. My next move will be to find a used pair with decent patch for cheap. thanks

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1 hour ago, lance said:

Does anyone have email contact info for Toyo/Sugar Cane? I’d like to weasel a new snake patch out of them for my Oki Rainbow jeans but their website is in Japanese and other Google searches lead to sellers. My next move will be to find a used pair with decent patch for cheap. thanks

[email protected] 

That is their email, which I have used before. 

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Does anybody have some sort of guide to fixing broken chain stitches? My Full Count 1108 has a broken chain stitch on the inseam about 2-3" below the crotch. I was able to pull the "loop" so that it's flush on the outside, but I'm sure this won't hold for long. I've had this happen on other pairs and have never really understood how to fix it, I'd always just snip the thread when a few stitches came loose on the outside, then haphazardly sew around the area with navy thread hoping nothing else would break. Obviously, this isn't the "right" way to do it.

I know there must be some way to fix this and maintain the proper stitch appearance on the outside, but heck if I know how to do it. Google-fu has not found me anything useful.

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^ Just do a running chainstitch across the length of the broken area by hand, making sure to overlap on either end with the remaining stitching and, in particular, to penetrate through the existing "chain" loops in order to prevent further unravelling. Googling "running chainstitch" should be enough to get you started.

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