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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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Actually I got it wrong the first time around, apparently it's "heavy duty sewing machines" they are buying for this project.

16 minutes ago, tigerstrom said:

I think that the heavy weight stuff some brands are releasing is rediculous. 

It's pretty much just N&F taking the silly-route to Bonkersville. The commonly available 20-25oz. fabrics from Samurai, Iron Heart et al. are very wearable and for some, like me, greatly preferable when pitted against their lesser brethren.

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I understand that people find the heavy fabrics interesting but in my opinion the sweet spot is around 13-15oz. When I first started buying Japanese denim I was just looking at the weight of the fabric, I wanted them as heavy as possible lol. The heaviest pair I've owned is samurai 19oz, my legs were sweaty all the time haha.

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@propellerbeanie

I would buy some jeans thread. I bought some from Citron jeans (Etsy) for mending myself. Excellent all cotton thread that’ll fade with the excisting thread (I’m guessing it’s not a poly thread). Then I would double the original thread for a few stitches so it doesn’t unravel more and then use the old holes as I guide as I continue. Start and stop from Inside the pocket so the knots won’t show.

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On 11/30/2006 at 12:14 AM, startmeup said:

um...try starch and glitter. the sheen will go away. if you want to keep the sheen of raw denim then put vineagar in to keep the indigo and never wash them and dont bend your knees when you walk.

How does vinegar keep the sheen? 

Why does vinegar keep indigo from rinsing out of the fabric? 

Is this about using vinegar instead of detergent?

And you had an earlier post on starch and glitter. I have experimented with various dilutions of starch but I often see it gets a bad rap on here and is often recommended that soaking is beneficial because it removes the factory starch. 

A positive aspect to starch is that it helps to prevent material from absorbing moisture and sweat as well as getting embedded by dirt. This seems like it would be a benefit when denim pants are seldom washed. I do understand that too much starch can result in the cotton fibers losing their pliability and breaking when exposed to stress and this decreases the life of the denim (I have found this through personal experimentation using liquid corn starch added during soaking).

Lastly, any personal insights on glitter always appreciated.

-pedro

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On 11/15/2018 at 9:53 PM, : ) said:

I think because indigo works better with cellulose fibers whereas wool is protein. There may be chemicals or incorrect pH levels in a indigo vat that would be damaging to wool.

Great response. pH needs to be monitored very carefully when dyeing wool since alkalinity is very hard on wool fibres. 

Wool does accept indigo dyes and this combination, as we can all imagine, has been in use much earlier in human history prior to the introduction of cotton.

-pedro

Edited by Pedro
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@Pedro you know that post is 12 years old and the user startmeup logged in the last time 10 years ago? It's likely that you don't get an answer from him.

What you wrote about startch is all true, it has its benefits but also its downsides.


About vinegar: you hear conflicting things. Some say it will keep the colour in and other say vinegar only helps with acid dyed stuff and denim is not acid dyed so it won't help at all

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On 12/24/2017 at 7:34 PM, mlwdp said:

What happened to the proxy services thread?  Or is there a better list of Japanese proxy buying services?

What is a proxy buying service?

Is it a way to get around Custom Duties?

-pedro

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3 minutes ago, Pedro said:

What is a proxy buying service?

Is it a way to get around Custom Duties?

-pedro

A proxy is someone that buys stuff on your behalf. Often Japanese shops don't sell overseas. In those situations you commission a proxy service (located in Japan) to buy the goods and ship them to you. It doesn't have an effect on customs and as an American you shouldn't worry unless you buy stuff above 800 $

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2 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Pedro you know that post is 12 years old and the user startmeup logged in the last time 10 years ago? It's likely that you don't get an answer from him.

What you wrote about startch is all true, it has its benefits but also its downsides.


About vinegar: you hear conflicting things. Some say it will keep the colour in and other say vinegar only helps with acid dyed stuff and denim is not acid dyed so it won't help at all

Yeah, I should have noted I was creating a zombie post, sorry.

I was hoping it might catch someone's eye in modern times ;-)

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge & experience. I feel like a guy who has been doing all these denim experiments on a deserted island with only my pet monkey for conversation for many years and recently finding this site and getting to talk to humans is mind bending.

-pedro

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On 12/22/2017 at 8:07 AM, theguywhoknewthatguy said:

Made it to Bangkok and can answer this question! Asked an employee and they said the Siam Square SOI 2 store is their flag ship. https://goo.gl/maps/4pEys6abGr22.

It's multiple stories and they seemed to carry all of their products as opposed to some other stores that just carry a subset. So many collaborations! Picked up the full count x Pronto 10th anniversary pair.

And for anyone coming to BKK and stopping by Siam Square, it is worth venturing a block over to the old Lido Theatre only 100 metres away & walking up to the 2nd floor to check out MACHINE. It is a shop that has always done denim repairs and alterations and now the owner, Rush, and his staff make denim products as well. 

 

E8335633-C422-4209-91F5-C4EFBEE08A00.jpeg

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31 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Pedro 
About vinegar: you hear conflicting things. Some say it will keep the colour in and other say vinegar only helps with acid dyed stuff and denim is not acid dyed so it won't help at all

I can sure think of one upside to vinegar and that is for the guys whose denim seldom sees soap and suffers odors and crotch rot.

The anti-fungal and anti-microbial properties of the acetic acid would destroy some of those critters that break down the denim fibres.

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9 hours ago, Pedro said:

And for anyone coming to BKK and stopping by Siam Square, it is worth venturing a block over to the old Lido Theatre only 100 metres away & walking up to the 2nd floor to check out MACHINE. It is a shop that has always done denim repairs and alterations and now the owner, Rush, and his staff make denim products as well. 

I will attach a photo shortly...

I'm familiar with the area and will be back in a few weeks. Is it near the old Take 5 and Crow denim store?

Have yu tried any Nama Denim Products yet?

 

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So just soaked my new denim jacket and when soaking after touching the jacket my hands where sticky? Anyway hung it to dry above and slightly on my radiator like normal, and it's almost dry but parts of the jacket stuck to the radiator and it's only slightly left like a crispy residue 

 

Am I right in thinking it's just starch ? 

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1 hour ago, chambo2008 said:

Am I right in thinking it's just starch ? 

It's just an excess of starch. Nothing to worry about. It might indicate that you haven't removed all the starch so far though, which doesn't really matter but another soak will remove more, and help soften the hand of the jacket.

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On 19/11/2018 at 8:05 AM, Spiraltoy said:

@propellerbeanie

I would buy some jeans thread. I bought some from Citron jeans (Etsy) for mending myself. Excellent all cotton thread that’ll fade with the excisting thread (I’m guessing it’s not a poly thread). Then I would double the original thread for a few stitches so it doesn’t unravel more and then use the old holes as I guide as I continue. Start and stop from Inside the pocket so the knots won’t show.

Thanks for the info. Do you just use a backstitch?

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Hi , im the owner of Indonesian Denim brand WARPWEFT COMPANY...

Im quite interested and curious about the new hyped Relax Tapered - Carrot cut jeans. Is it only apply to the westerner with a bigger top block and thigh build? because in Indonesia it is kinda hard to find a person who can fit well in a 12.5" thigh and 11.5" Front rise measurement jeans (im using size 32 as a reference).

Have been trying to make some prototype for this cut , Because im trying to contact some US or EU denim store in the near future and i think this cuts is kind of very popular right now. So i decided to learn about this. But hard to find a good reference for this cut as like i said above , it is hard to find a western build men here to give it a try.

Is it possible if you guys give me an input on what is the main benefits of this new relax tapered cut? Is it to allow a bigger build westerner to have a comfortable topblock while able to rock a sneakers game?

 

Thanks

H

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4 hours ago, ZoaldeycK said:

 

Is it possible if you guys give me an input on what is the main benefits of this new relax tapered cut? Is it to allow a bigger build westerner to have a comfortable topblock while able to rock a sneakers game?

 

Thanks

H

 

Salam takzim masbro ZoaldeycK,

I think you nailed it otherwise but the same potential benefits apply for other ethnicities as well... Not skipping the leg-days easily leads to a situation where you find yourself ”sizing for the thighs”, which for many cuts means having to go up several tag sizes. ”Relax tapered” cuts let one bypass the hassle of aftermarket alterations that have always been a popular answer to this particular question.

It’s also worth noticing that the extreme carrot is not the only possible variation of the theme; Iron Heart’s 888 cut is a fine example of a more ”adult tapered” cut, with a nice and clean yet subdued silhouette. 

 

 

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