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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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I have the IHSH-174-IND and I really like it. It was a bit too warm for the heat of Summer, but it's OK now. I added MOP buttons and it really works well on this shirt. I also have the Samurai SBD17 (like this one: http://www.e2nd.net/br-sj/sj-251-01-f/sj-sbd17-s01-ai.html) and it is a favorite. The fabric is light, with a crunchy feel, and a very 3D texture. I'm super excited to be wearing it over the next few years. WRT indigo, I regret not getting the patchwork PBJ shirt.

Most of my other ss shirts are madras, which I love. I have too many to count...

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Can anyone tell me the differences between all these stitches? They are all "chainstitches" but look different (and it may just be me, but I think they produce different roping effects as well).


This one is done by Blue Owl using a Union 43200G. I love the look and the roping looks really nice in real life but I can't get over the width of the hem. According to Jay, .5 inch (with the stitch itself at 3/8 inch) is the tightest their union specials can handle.
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Meanwhile, here is the chainstitch done by Railcar (also on a Union Special though their site doesn't seem to make mention of the kind). The picture may be too dim but the stitch is much tighter and is raised higher off the surface of the denim. In real life it almost looks like the kind of weave you would find on a rope. The picture doesn't quite capture what I'm trying to describe, see the comparison pic further down. An older pair I have that was also hemmed by Railcar never seemed to exhibit nice wavy, even roping. On the bright side their machines can hem to 3/8 of an inch.
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Here is the factory hem on a pair of Fullcount jeans. This kind of stitch is the most 'flat' looking of them all and seems to produce the best roping among my pairs. Denimio hems also look like this. This is my favorite of the ones I've displayed-- I like the flatness, the roping effect is strong, and the hem width is 3/8 of an inch. Unfortunately, it seems this option isn't attainable in the US since blue owl's hem is .5 inch and Railcar's is that thin 'rope-braided' looking stitch. Maybe someone can share their experience with a denim service based in the US.
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Here is thin and high Railcar stitch next to the fat and flat Fullcount stitch
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Here is the blue owl side by side with Railcar. Note the difference in hem width.
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Sorry for the bad quality pics. Any thoughts?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is there a thread on the Scandinavian brand SOSO Clothing and does anyone have any experience? Denimhound reviewed some of their custom jeans, and despite some of their denim options being China-made, the quality looks good and I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair with the 13.5oz greenline indigo. You can't beat the price or the custom options.

Any input appreciated. 

http://www.sosoclothing.se/

 

 

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I've never read a bad review there. T=I've read lukewarm and less than enthusiastic reviews, but never negative ones. I guess he understands the dynamics of his place in the denim food chain. But I like his reviews nonetheless. 

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On 8/14/2017 at 5:24 PM, chicote said:

^Tbh for me, as great as that cut looks, i wouldn't get it because it's only been released since SOC's rebrand, which really made them fall off the radar for me. Prior to 2016 or whenever the change happened, SOC's detailing was amazing—the old patches were *so* cool, their greencast denim was totally in a class of its own, and the back pocket design was distinctive enough to set it apart from other brands imo. On the other hand, the new pocket stitching and belt loops look sort of contrived, not to mention that their new denim looks way more irregular and less vintage-y than the lovely denim the old models came with.

Wait, what? Rebrand? First hearing this. Thought they were just introducing new models and whatnot with old models in tack. Agree with Cuccoo that the 340's can be a nice slim straight pair but I really do wish they fixed the wonky waist thing they have going on or at least explain the concept behind it. 

I agree the previous denim were better especially since the current Caligosta iterations are sanforized. That being said, I do like the pocket stitching and belt loops since it gives it a nice western/cowboy feel. Helps that I'm in Texas so your mileage may vary.

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I recently purchased a pair of bybeatle volume one from the initial 2012-13 run but the listing says they're one wash. But I cannot find any info to support the fact a one wash model was ever created. So does anyone know for sure if a one wash model was created and if so is it the same 17 oz Selvedge as other volume one models

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34 minutes ago, UkeNo said:

@The Chad

To the best of my knowledge there wasn't a washed version sold of the bybeatle vol 1. 

My guess is that the seller soaked/washed them when they were new and is now describing them as one-washed etc. Should be fine. 

Well he was selling all NWT jeans and these were just listed as new without tags. So I'm thinking he was mistaken and I'll give them a soak. You could be right though. I guess I'll be able to tell with the stiffness, etc. if he did. Thx for the help

Edited by The Chad
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22 hours ago, UkeNo said:

@The Chad

To the best of my knowledge there wasn't a washed version sold of the bybeatle vol 1. 

My guess is that the seller soaked/washed them when they were new and is now describing them as one-washed etc. Should be fine. 

You guys were right. Said he hot soaked but never wore so here's my new conundrum the inseam on these is 36" which I need to get hemmed down to 31" but after a hot soak I'd expect the inseam to be around 34" so if I take them to get hemmed and then down the road wash them and they shrink 2 inches I'll have some really nice capris. Advice?

Edited by The Chad
Grammar
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I think it has to do with the cores remaining white while the outside is dyed so over time the dye falls off and the white core is shown. Sulfur is typically used for black jeans and Kapital has great persimmon dyed jeans in their century denim. I think they have used sumi ink to make a grey denim which fades similarly to indigo as well.

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@kicks79 To my understanding, this is pretty wrong.

@udon So how is the weight measured? You take a defined piece of fabric and measure the weight. The unit would be oz/yd² (actually they don’t use a whole square yard of fabric). Well, what happens when you wash/soak unsanforized denim? It shrinks! What would happen to the size of your fabric you measured? It is smaller. So to be able to compare the weight of the washed fabric with the unwashed fabric you started with, you need to take a piece of washed fabric that is exactly the same size as the fabric you started with. But now all the warp and weft yarns are more dense and closer together. So you have more yarns in the same sized piece of fabric and that makes the denim weight increase after a wash.

 

@Foxy2 Can explain this much better and he can surely show you the device which you use to actually measure the weight.

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