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Real McCoy's / Joe McCoy's Jeans

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On 2/22/2019 at 4:20 PM, StrangeNeil said:

Nice pickups! 

The loops in the armholes of the N-1 jacket are so you can hang it from a clothesline to dry. 

Fun fact (hopefully): if memory serves correctly (and having tried this myself to verify), the armholes on the N-1 are to loop one’s pair of work dungarees through, so that one can work with the jacket hanging round the waist and then pull on the jacket when it gets cold at night. Common for engineers on deck in cold conditions when night hits and temps go from hot to freezing.

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Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, SLAB said:

are you sure about that? A free trade agreement should mean there are no more additional tariffs charged; of course VAT and handling fees still apply. It is not a customs union

 

right, a FTA is not a joint economic zone or a customs union (like the EU) - importantly, the details of each FTA differ and in this case it means that the tariffs are lowered in steps before they eventually get removed.

if your biggest add-on costs are VAT and handling fees the reduction (and eventual removal) of import tax tariffs will not mean much.

Edited by Foxy2

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Well if I was paying the prices quoted on the Japanese store I would be spending a lot more with them. 

In stead I try other brands on Okayama Denim and get it delivered next day now in London with DHL. 

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8 hours ago, Jambon said:

Is the London store an official one or just a franchise? 

As I have enquired a number of times about a few items that show out of stock and not once have I ever got a reply from them. 

It’s almost like they don’t want my money, business must be too good for them... 

I thought now with the EU/Japan free trade agreement we would be able to order it directly from Japan ourselves and cut out the expensive middle man. 

It's an official store, they have always been really responsive to my emails. 

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14 hours ago, Jambon said:

Is the London store an official one or just a franchise? 

As I have enquired a number of times about a few items that show out of stock and not once have I ever got a reply from them. 

It’s almost like they don’t want my money, business must be too good for them... 

I thought now with the EU/Japan free trade agreement we would be able to order it directly from Japan ourselves and cut out the expensive middle man. 

Same story for me, in the US. Will likely never use them.

 Standard and Strange will take better care of you. 

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We do special orders from The Real McCoy's regularly, for items we regularly stock and for items we don't. Delivery usually takes about 1-2 weeks, you can email us for more info...

Stores located in Japan selling McCoy's are not supposed to ship outside Japan per a dealer policy...





 

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So I came across this pair of Slab's jeans on Heddels (probably featured in this thread somewhere, but couldn't find it):

fade-of-the-day-the-real-mccoys-lot-004-

Obviously, this a beautifully faded pair of jeans, and the denim looks great, but that back pocket ruins it for me. The folding/cutting of the back pocket edges (which you can see faded on the left pocket) is, for me, absolutely unacceptable. I wouldn't tolerate that from a $30 pair of jeans, let alone a high end brand like McCoy. On jeans like Flat Head and Full Count, the inward-folded edges of the back pockets are always cut very close to the stitching and is practically invisible even after heavy fading.

I guess what I'm wondering is, how typical is this for McCoy jeans? Is this just an example with poor QC (in this area), or are all of their jeans like this? I like what I've seen from McCoy jeans and would give them consideration, but this is a total dealbreaker.

 

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@Cold Summer I saw a pair on denimbro a while ago that was super faded and also had it, so it might be usual. Don't know about historical accuracy and all that behind it though. I think resolute does is as well.

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^^ I think this is likely intentional. You'll see the same thing on Resolute's jeans, so I figure it's probably true-to-repro in some sense, but I agree that it's really unappealing. More power to any folks who're into it, but that's one of those details that's pretty much a dealbreaker for me.

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Posted (edited)

with the amount of attention that RMcC directs towards their products you can assume it's intentional for the back patch pocket seam allowance to be that wide - at least for in certain sizes.

a possible reason for that could be that all back pockets are cut (or die-cut) with the same dimension for all sizes. the final back pocket patches are then adjusted for each size - which means in the smaller sizes the seam allowance would be wider.
another aspect is the back pocket top-stitching around the hidden/concealed rivets - the inner stitching line is quite a bit apart from the outer stitching near the rivets before it aligns with the outer stitchind to a standard width for the rest of the patch pocket. most manufacturer have irregular seam allowances on the sides of the pocket or will trim the rest down manually - which is extra work, time & money.

IIRC, @SLAB sports a smaller jeans size...

Edited by Foxy2

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That's something I thought of after I posted that, Foxy (if RMC just cuts all back pockets to the same rough size) - that would make sense, but it still seems like cutting corners. 

I never really got why Flat Head always emphasized the "narrow stitch" on their back pockets, but now I kind of get it, it's harder to keep the stitching narrow around the hidden rivets, but doing so lets the maker cut the folded part more closely so it sits next to the stitching/doesn't stand out. 

I have noticed that faded Resolute jeans also have that thicker folded edge on the left side of their back pockets, but it's usually just that one side. I was guessing it some some kind of historical thing, but scrolling through lots of vintage 50s Levis on the Marvin's website, I can't recall seeing many pairs like that.

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I wouldn't be surprised if the wider seam allowance for smaller sizes is an original feature. most likely the original manufacturers were trying to cut corners (it was dead cheap workwear after all) and RMcC is trying to replicate that.

who knows...

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That would make sense. This sort of thing is why I tend to prefer the "vintage-inspired" brands that replicate old-school denim and key features while making improvements in other areas, but I get why people also like the brands that go all the way, like ONE PIECE OF ROCK.

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On 6/28/2019 at 7:13 AM, Cold Summer said:

This sort of thing is why I tend to prefer the "vintage-inspired" brands that replicate old-school denim and key features while making improvements in other areas, 

+1

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Gorgeous buttons mate. And the fabric looks very nice too.

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so I had to finally admit to myself that a size 36 N-1 is no longer my size. Would anyone be willing to trade his khaki N1 size 38 for a used size 36, please dm me

my Lot 004 from above is a size 28 so the smallest size available. I can't say for sure but I'm likely to agree that the issue with the back pockets is a repro characteristic that RMC emulated.

 

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they probably cut all the back patch pockets from one block in one or two sizes and wouldn't worry too much about color shading. the operator had time, scissors and a template to match, trim and make the pocket fit right at the sewing machine.

with increased sewing operator costs, increased line output/efficiencies and the rise of automatic pocket setting machines things got streamlined, "optimized" and standardized.

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Fits you very well mate.

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I pulled the trigger on a Real McCoys A-2 leather jacket, looking forward to it. Based on the measurements it should be a great fit on me, but I won't be certain whether the style works for me until it arrives :D Expect some full analysis when it gets here. The Shinki horsehide looks lovely.

 

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RMC jackets are top quality, and the leather is gorgeous. If the fit works, you've got a jacket you'll adore for life.

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One day I will own an RMC leather...

great pick up kyle 

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On 8/3/2019 at 12:36 AM, Geeman said:

One day I will own an RMC leather...

great pick up kyle 

me too!

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