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Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info

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Kiya can you explain the lettpressed leather patch to me?  How does that work?

 

Roy drew it by hand then had a letterpress stamp made then stamped out the patches on a vintage letterpress machine:

 

AL_1.jpg

AL_4.jpg

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How come he decided to go with a 11oz denim?

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How come he decided to go with a 11oz denim?

 

 

You may email Roy and ask him, his email address is on his website.

 

From my viewpoint if you have the chance to work with a company like Cone to develop exclusive fabrics in small runs you want to explore all possibilities, and with this new release he wanted a true Deeptone-life fabric with a lighter weight.  Due to its loomstate nature the fabric feels far heavier than 11oz even after its been soaked.

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That type of weight is representative of the jeans of the pre-war era that would have had a cinch-back and exposed back pocket rivets.

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Hi Kiya, I usually take a 34 in Roy (RS04 / Duck 1) but not sure whether to take a 33 or 34 based on the raw size and 1.25 shrinkage in the waist? I want to have a straight fit not slim fit.

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Hi Kiya, I usually take a 34 in Roy (RS04 / Duck 1) but not sure whether to take a 33 or 34 based on the raw size and 1.25 shrinkage in the waist? I want to have a straight fit not slim fit.

 

Definitely go for a 34 in these too, the 33 will most probably be too slim for you after the hot soak.

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Hey Kiya, I wear a size 30 Buck Tites, and am looking for a slimmer fit. Should I size down or stay at 30? I'm worried that after the initial soak the 29's might end up super tight.

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Hey Kiya, I wear a size 30 Buck Tites, and am looking for a slimmer fit. Should I size down or stay at 30? I'm worried that after the initial soak the 29's might end up super tight.

 

If you're a 30 in the Buck-Tites and want to try and achieve a slimmer fit go for the size 29 on these new ones and just do a cold soak.

Edited by kiya

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Is the cut a departure from the buck-tight style and a return to a more straight fit?

It's too bad that Roy has only been pumping out tapered fits, which appeal to the Self Edge customer base. From a while back kiya had this to say about the recent SExDB collab:

 

Its very simple, for a company the size of Self Edge its near impossible for us to pull off a collaboration because of the costs associated with it.  It nearly breaks us financially each time and we pray that it sells well upon release.  What this means is that we have to produce a jean that WE like while balancing it with a jean that will sell well, and what sells well is slightly tapered jeans.  If we really wanted to sell the jeans super fast all we'd have to do is make every collab a slim tapered jean and they'd sell even faster, but then where's the fun in making the same jean over and over?

 

I thought Roy nailed the straight fit on the SF-01, but everything since has been a tapered fit of some sort. The "one size fits all" (size down for slim, up for straight fit) spin is clever, but that's not how I like my jeans to fit. I can't fault Roy for combining his craftsmanship with a fit that will fly off the shelves; at the end of the day, he's running a business and clearly he's doing something right.

 

I for one would like to see Roy keep a couple of fits as staples (e.g. straight and tapered), so whenever he gets his hands on some funky denim or nifty hardware there's an option between the fits. He could still make more of what sells best, but by only producing modern fits, he's alienating a lot of customers who have keenly followed his work from the beginning.

 

That being said, I can see kiya's point as well. In the past, fuller cuts haven't appealed to the SE customer base (e.g. SG 1103, Steam Locamotive, RJB 105, etc.). The standard straight fit offerings (e.g. IH 634, SC 1947) are reliable and will satisfy most customers.

Edited by PeterParker

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How come he decided to go with a 11oz denim?

 

I actually talked to him about that when he was still putting together the final details on the jean and basically, he was pretty interested in a lighter weight denim for this jean because he wanted a more "highly constructed denim" which for he described as a fabric where even though it's lighter, it has more more yarn packed in per square inch so that the denim has a much tighter weave which makes it more durable and longer lasting. 

 

the denim definitely feels more substantial than any other 11oz denim and just feels like a tough piece of fabric. 

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It's too bad that Roy has only been pumping out tapered fits to appeal to popular demand:

 

 

I thought Roy nailed the straight fit on the SF-01, but everything since has been a tapered fit of some sort. The "one size fits all" (size down for slim, up for straight fit) spin is clever, but that's not how I like my jeans to fit. I for one would like to see Roy keep a couple of fits as staples (e.g. straight and tapered), so whenever he gets his hands on some funky denim or nifty hardware there's an option between the fits. He could still make more of what sells best, but by only producing modern fits, he's alienating a lot of customers who have keenly followed his work from the beginning.

 

That being said, I can see kiya's point as well. In the past, fuller cuts haven't appealed to the SE customer base (e.g. SG 1103, Steam Locamotive, RJB 105, etc.). The standard straight fit offerings (e.g. IH 634, SC 1947) are reliable and will satisfy most customers.

 

You're taking a quote from five months ago in response to Self Edge collaborations and using it to prove a point about another brand's products.  I was speaking about Self Edge collaborations while you're talking about another brand's decision to make a certain type of jean.  Roy's jeans are not a collaboration with Self Edge, and we (as a company) have nearly zero input as to what he produces.

 

Roy does what he wants, he doesn't look at things like "what is going to sell", "target audience", "lets do xxx because of xxx", or "i should make things that make xxx customers happy".  He just makes what he thinks is going to be interesting and push the boundaries of what he's capable of with every new release.  

Edited by kiya

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/\ Tighter than Buck Tite?!! Is that humanly possible?

 

Please read the release info above, the fit is not as slim as the Buck-Tite.

Edited by kiya

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Just as I was settled on the Stevenson 727 jean..... Roy nails it again.

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I don't think Kiya meant a slimmer fit than the BT but just a slimmer fit overall as compared to going TTS.

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If Roy was making jeans with the focus only on what would sell the fastest, he wouldn't be putting out an 11oz pair with a cinch back.  Clearly, this is a dude who's making stuff because he thinks it's interesting, and he's just hoping other folks will, too.

 

And I've gotta say, the details just get better and better with each model.  The rivets, the taped fly, the new patch; this is just great stuff.

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I may have just bought a pair of lvc '44's and a pair of Edwin Nashvilles, but I think these need to be mine...

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I thought Roy nailed the straight fit on the SF-01, but everything since has been a tapered fit of some sort. The "one size fits all" (size down for slim, up for straight fit) spin is clever, but that's not how I like my jeans to fit. I can't fault Roy for combining his craftsmanship with a fit that will fly off the shelves; at the end of the day, he's running a business and clearly he's doing something right.

 

 

The SF-01 was only 3 cuts ago!!!  You're also forgetting that in between the SF-01 and the Bucktite was the Duck-1 which is closer to the SF-01 than anything Roy has ever done.  Though I can't pretend to know what Roy will do next, I think it's more than a little hasty to assume that this represents any kind of emerging pattern.  I'd say if anything, the last three denim jeans Roy has done  SF01, Buck-Tite, and CB-1 have been a pretty impressive offering that include something for almost everyone.  I'm 100% with you in terms of personal preference, as the SF01 is my own favorite cut from Roy, but there are a lot of people for whom that cut is just too full, but who also aren't interested in a jean as slim as the Buck-Tite.

 

As has been mentioned, if an unsanforized 11oz, cinch-back, in a cut that, without being a super-slim, cut is unlikely to appeal to the repro-bro crowd, is ANYONE'S idea of something that will "fly off the shelves," they are doing it wrong.  

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I think you will find the Duck-1 came out before the SF-01, but what the hell!

 

Roy rocks but I don't think these are for me.

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As has been mentioned, if an unsanforized 11oz, cinch-back, in a cut that, without being a super-slim, cut is unlikely to appeal to the repro-bro crowd, is ANYONE'S idea of something that will "fly off the shelves," they are doing it wrong.  

 

I'm trying to parse this sentence, but I get lost every time. This is some real M.C Escher grammar, my friend.  ;)

 

Kidding aside, I hope this sentiment of "Roy rocks but I don't think these are for me" (etc) continues because I would love to pick up a pair, but they are going to have to last more than 48 hours or I don't stand a chance.

 

I paused at "This is a unique Jean, yet it is not a trophy. Please use as intended". I think sometimes it seems like the majority are ending up in archives but I wonder if that's just because of a non-representative sample group? Maybe all the archivists are posting online and all the hard-wearing folk are too busy adventuring to give evo-updates. An incentive program, like marking up all pairs now by $10 but offering people $40 off their next pair of Roys if they bring in a trashed leather tag from an old pair might be interesting. (Obviously more trouble than it's worth... just having fun thinking out loud.)

 

Cheers to Roy for another work of art, and to SE for bringing it to the people. If I can get it together to buy a pair, I promise to wear* them.

 

*(In summer 2014 cause im too busy now....)

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Kiya,

Is it a safe assumption that a size 31 in these new Roys will have a touch more room in the waist than the same size in SF01? Same waist measurement but 11oz. denim shrinks a little less? Or does the lower rise equalize it? The 31 SF01 are just a bit on the tight side but the 32s were on the baggy side. Thanks.

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Kiya,

Is it a safe assumption that a size 31 in these new Roys will have a touch more room in the waist than the same size in SF01? Same waist measurement but 11oz. denim shrinks a little less? Or does the lower rise equalize it? The 31 SF01 are just a bit on the tight side but the 32s were on the baggy side. Thanks.

 

That is correct, if you get the same size and soak them you should have a hair more room.  

Also, you can always control how big the waist is going to be with the temperature of the water and the length of time the jean spends in the water.  A ten minute cold water soak isn't going to shrink the jean as much as a 45 minute hot water soak.  By the time you get around to washing the jean it won't matter much if you cold or hot soaked the jean with the exception of losing another ~1" in length if you cold soaked them.

Edited by kiya

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Will those John Lofgren tees that you posted a picture of on Instagram be on the website Kiya?

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I don't think lighter weight denim, a cinchback, and exposed back pocket rivets are going to be be dealbreakers for people thinking about buying this jean. The adornments are consistent with Roy's aesthetic of subtle but insane attention to detail. He has never proclaimed or advertised himself to be manufacturing reproduction jeans, but rather for incorporating nerdy details from all eras into a pair of jeans that look like nothing from the past.

 

Which is why this statement on the product page for the CB-1 is comical:

 

This is as close as you're going to get to owning a pair of deadstock jeans from the 40's. Literally.

 

I know selling repro jeans isn't SE's domain, but for someone who crucifies brands for misinforming the uneducated denim buyer and other retailers for their website copy, Kiya comes off as a bit of a hypocrite here.

 

I probably look like a prick who's out to get Roy and Self Edge from the past two pages, but I am speaking as a customer of both who has tremendous respect for both Roy and Kiya.

 

Also, those who follow Roy through other avenues other than the relevant SuFu threads will observe that the product photos have been cleverly cropped. I think most people will be pleasantly surprised once they see these in person.

Edited by PeterParker

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