Jump to content
kiya

Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info

Recommended Posts

Mister Freedom Blank T-Shirts - Made in California

 

A couple of months ago we received a small batch of blank white tees from Mister Freedom, they were gone within a week of us receiving them.  We've gotten a restock of those white tees along with two new colors which we think are going to be a future staple at Self Edge. 

 

These tees are made of 100% US grown cotton which has been loomed in the US on tubular knitting machines (no side seams).  The tees are then cut and sewn in California and have a vintage style fit with sleeves fitting a bit shorter than usual and a boxy fit throughout.  These also have a narrow neck-band, like the ones found on tees from the 40's and 50's. 

 

These tees are now available in white, sage green, and navy blue.  The white tees come unwashed and shrink down to size, the sage green and navy blue ones have been rinsed during the dying process and do not shrink much at all.  Mister Freedom nailed the shade of green and blue on the colored ones, they're beautiful and sure to age well over time.

 

All three of these tees are available now at all four Self Edge stores and in our online store.  Check the online store for high-res photos, measurements, and a full spec list.

 


 

MF_GREEN_TSHIRT_01.jpg

MF_GREEN_TSHIRT_02.jpg

MF_GREEN_TSHIRT_03.jpg

MF_GREEN_TSHIRT_04.jpg

MF_GREEN_TSHIRT_05.jpg

MF_NAVY_TSHIRT_01.jpg

MF_NAVY_TSHIRT_02.jpg

MF_NAVY_TSHIRT_03.jpg

MF_NAVY_TSHIRT_04.jpg

MF_NAVY_TSHIRT_05.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking about getting the green one, looks like what I've been looking for.

Did you take your normal size?  It looks like I could go down to a large and it would fit well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a medium in other Mister Freedom shirts (and a 40 in the deck coat) and there's no way I could have gone down to a small

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya- I need to taper my Roy Bucks. Would you be able to recommend someone?

 

I generally try and shy people away from tapering their jeans for multiple reasons so i don't actually know who does a decent job at it.  I would imagine the best tailor in your town would be able to manage doing it pretty easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if 40 in flathead shirts what size in the MF shirts?

 

Medium.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya- I need to taper my Roy Bucks. Would you be able to recommend someone?

 

 

Please be reminded that the tailor probably will have your single (outside) seam to go first. That's the one with the selvage...

It will take some persuasion to take it to the double

He can take about 1,5 to 2 inches off before starting on your other seam as not to get the leg crooked and twisted.

If done properly it will take about 3 hours to get more then 2 inches at the bottom off.. 

You are as Kiya implied better off looking for a better fitting model..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya- I need to taper my Roy Bucks. Would you be able to recommend someone?

 

Whenever people come in asking to have jeans tapered, I always suggest trying to solve the issue by hemming the jeans a little more.  Often people want taper not because the shape is better that way, but because they don't like how the jean looks below the knee.  More often than not, this is because the jean is longer than it needs to be (or is not cuffed short enough), and the stacking is creating the illusion of a much fuller leg shape.  It's really quite startling how much difference can be made just by making sure there is minimal, or even no break.  I'd highly recommend that before tapering.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya, do you have any plans to bring out the rjb denim in a cut that isn't slim?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to back up tmadd's assertion which I agree with completely, here's a pic of my SExDB when cuffed. Uncuffed, they look slightly baggy.

 

photo_zps94512234.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya, do you have any plans to bring out the rjb denim in a cut that isn't slim?

 

We don't find the 105BSP cut to be slim, its a straight leg cut with a fairly good sized leg opening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kiya, do you have any plans to bring out the rjb denim in a cut that isn't slim?

Casey and I can both rock the 105bsp.  The only trick is catching it in stock in sizes.  Such a cool jean!

 

Edit: Hopefully this reads as a deliberate statement that the 105bsp is in fact not a slim jean at all.

Edited by tmadd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the prompt replies guys...what better thing to talk about than denim at 1 in the morning? 

 

I totally forgot about the 105.  But is it just me or are the thigh measurements deceptively small? I know that a larger leg opening and no-taper definitely make a jean feel bigger but an 11.2" thigh post-soak on a size 32 seems damn slim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the prompt replies guys...what better thing to talk about than denim at 1 in the morning? 

 

I totally forgot about the 105.  But is it just me or are the thigh measurements deceptively small? I know that a larger leg opening and no-taper definitely make a jean feel bigger but an 11.2" thigh post-soak on a size 32 seems damn slim.

 

I wouldn't say it's just you; that's exactly how it appears. (Especially given the amount of expected shrink.)

 

Sorry to ask what may have been done too many times before, but eta on FH blank Tees?

Edited by TresUnCool

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't say it's just you; that's exactly how it appears. (Especially given the amount of expected shrink.)

 

Sorry to ask what may have been done too many times before, but eta on FH blank Tees?

 

More blank tees are coming in early November.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the prompt replies guys...what better thing to talk about than denim at 1 in the morning? 

 

I totally forgot about the 105.  But is it just me or are the thigh measurements deceptively small? I know that a larger leg opening and no-taper definitely make a jean feel bigger but an 11.2" thigh post-soak on a size 32 seems damn slim.

SE measures the thigh 1" from the crotch seam.  I think this is why they always seem to have small recorded thigh measurements.

 

Im kind of curious as to why they measure like this,to be honest, considering most other places that I have done business with do it right at the crotch seam, straight out.    I support SESF because I like them and they are local, but the measurements they have posted (or my inability to decipher the difference in measuring methods, LOL) has basically lost them some sales from me for certain jeans.  At the end of they day, Im the idiot, but still.  

Edited by garden gnomes in space

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im kind of curious as to why they measure like this,to be honest, considering most other places that I have done business with do it right at the crotch seam, straight out.  

 

The reason for this is because we're taking the thigh measurement, we feel that taking it at the crotch would be "the measurement from the crotch to the outside of the leg".  We find that 1" below the crotch is closer to the actual measurement of the "thigh" compared to measuring it higher up at the cross-stitch at the crotch.  

Many people measure their own thigh at the halfway point to compare to the jean measurement, that measurement would actually land you closer to about 3" below the crotch.

Edited by kiya

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Although I prefer and use the BiG method, I think there is less room for error by measuring an inch down as there is less surplus material at the back of the thigh for people to mis-measure or interpret differently.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While not exactly intuitive, the SE measurements aren't too difficult to understand if you have other jeans for comparison. Typically, from my experience, the measurement 1" below the seam is 0.5" less than the measurement at the seam.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whenever people come in asking to have jeans tapered, I always suggest trying to solve the issue by hemming the jeans a little more.  Often people want taper not because the shape is better that way, but because they don't like how the jean looks below the knee.  More often than not, this is because the jean is longer than it needs to be (or is not cuffed short enough), and the stacking is creating the illusion of a much fuller leg shape.  It's really quite startling how much difference can be made just by making sure there is minimal, or even no break.  I'd highly recommend that before tapering.  

 

backing up aries as well as tmadd (xpost from sc thread):

 

9713671195_6325373365_z.jpg
Edited by oomslokop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted here per Kiya's request!

 

---

 

I posted an initial impressions of my new Stevenson Overall Co La Jollas (727) over at reddit's /r/rawdenim a few days ago.  I figured this thread needs some love, so thought I should x-post it over here.

 

Here's the link on reddit for anyone interested.

 

Please note that the pictures aren't the greatest and I had to screw around with the color/contrast/exposure etc. for fit pics because of poor lighting where I took them. I had limited time to take the pictures before my wife got home and wondered what the fuck I was doing taking pictures of my jeans and writing about them.

Full album.

---
Background

I had taken a couple pairs of jeans to SESF a couple months, one for a hem and the other for a repair. My wife was in the store with me and she was looking at some of the jeans that were hung up and said, “Oh, these are nice!†and pointed to a pair of Stevensons. I figured, “Hell, if my wife is enabling me by saying that a pair looks nice, I should probably exploit her remark and find an excuse to buy a pair,†since I always want more and more denim. At the time, the top jean on my to-buy list was a pair of SG3109, but I decided to take a look at the Stevensons hanging up and I was intrigued by some of the details on the jeans like the curved back pockets and the hourglass belt loops. When I got home, I started to do a bit of research into the brand and the jeans themselves, and I became more and more intrigued.

I started doing some research and came across this faded pair and thought they looked fantastic. A bit more of a vintage-y fade, but the owner mentioned they had been washed several times. I figured that since I don’t wash my jeans that often, I may be able to achieve a bit of a higher contrast fade, but I still thought the overall look/fade of the jean was pretty awesome. I also saw that Kiya had made some comments about the durability of Stevenson jeans. I don’t really beat my jeans up that badly, but durability is always good!

A week or so after I stopped by SESF to drop off my jeans for hemming/repairs, I went back to pick them up. The guy helping me there (Ginno?) was the guy in some of the Stevenson product pictures on the Self Edge website, who has been wearing a pair of Stevensons for the past couple of years. I briefly spoke to him about them and he talked about how much he loved his pair (and he had some pretty sick fades). He was also the same guy that sold me my SG1109s, so I trusted his judgement! By this point, I was thinking that a pair of Stevensons would be my next pair of jeans and I would just get a pair of SG3109s next time! When Self Edge had a 12% off sale for Self Edge PDX opening, I went ahead and ordered a pair.
---

Specs

Info taken from Self Edge - Stevenson Overall Co La Jolla (727) 
 

- 14oz Rope Dyed Unsanforized Japanese Selvedge Denim

- 6.5 Gauge Warp and Weft Threads
- Pure Indigo Dyed
- Single Needle Stitched
- Leather Backed Buttons
- Denim Woven on Vintage Toyoda Looms by Kuroki Co., Ltd. in Okayama
- Original Fabric for Stevenson Overall Company
- UJ Core Stitching (Cotton Thread w/ Poly Core) Produced by Ujiyo Bussan in Okayama
- Hand Sewn Belt Loops
- Slim Tapered Fit
 

Stevenson's La Jolla jean is a slim leg tapered jean with a great fit that works well with most outfit styles. The denim used on this pant is an original fabric developed by Stevenson Overall Company for their line of jeans and woven by Okayama's famed Kuroki denim mill. Even the thread used is developed for their jeans by Okayama's oldest thread producing factory, from the outside it looks and ages like a 100% cotton thread but is strong so that the jean lasts for a longer period of time.

The entire jean is single needle sewn which is nearly unheard of on a jean in this price range, it's truly a work of art to see.

---
Sizing

Using Self Edge's sizing chart and some email advice from Kiya, I went ahead and ordered a size 32. When I received them in the mail, I tried them on and they fit virtually perfectly. I was concerned they would shrink too much during an initial soak, so I dropped into SESF the weekend after I received them for some advice on whether I should size up or try Stevenson's slim cut, the Upland. The two guys there told me to wear them for a couple weeks, and then do a cold soak. I ended up wearing them maybe 3-4 times a week for about 3 weeks. They didn't seem to stretch too much. I went ahead and gave them a cold soak over the past weekend and let them air dry. They were a bit difficult to button, but still fit pretty nicely and have been stretching back to a more comfortable spot in the couple of days I've worn them since.

For reference, here is some information in the other jeans I wear:

- Stevenson Overall Co La Jolla - 32 - cold soaked
- The Strike Gold 1109 - 34 - cold soaked; a bit loose in the waist
- 3sixteen ST-100x - 33 - older production; fit perfectly
- 3sixteen ST-120x - 33 - newer production; tighter in the thighs than I would like
---
Fit

Front 
Back 

I really like the fit of these. They are pretty snug in the waist and thighs, but I've only worn them a couple of times since being soaked. They have a more aggressive taper than my SG1109 (which is really more of a slim straight) and my ST-100x. The back pockets have a bit of a wide stance, but it doesn't bother me too much.
---
Fabric

Closeup 1 
Closeup 2 
Selvedge 

The jeans have a nice heft to them being 14oz pre-soak, but obviously not too heavy. They'll be a good year-round weight here in the Bay Area. The fabric is pretty smooth (no slub) but has a decent amount of hair as evidenced in the two closeup pictures.

There is some slight fading you can see in some of the pictures and it appears it will fade with somewhat of a greenish hue. This will be cool to see because my SG1109 and ST-100x are fading more towards what I would describe as being more on the grey side.

The selvedge line is asymmetrical with white on one edge and green line on the other. Asymmetrical selvedge lines aren't that common and I like the contrast of the one that Stevenson is using.
---
Details/Hardware

Copper star rivets 
Stevenson Overall Co branded top button

Laurel leaf bottom buttons 
Leather backed buttons 
Hand sewn/folded curved back pockets 
Hand sewn/folded hourglass belt loops 
Single needle construction 
Dense stitch count 
Paper patch 

I particularly like the hourglass belt loops and curved back pocket on these jeans. I think it's a really unique aesthetic without feeling contrived. I keep my phone in my back pocket and the pocket's curve does make it stick out just a bit since the pocket depth is obviously a bit shorter in the center.

The one thing I'm not a fan of is the patch. It feels too flimsy and while it will still age and develop a patina along side the jeans, I would much rather have a natural leather patch.
---
Final Thoughts

I really like the fit of these jeans and the unique details like the hourglass belt loops and curved back pockets. I'm really interested to see how these break in and develop over time especially considering there isn't a whole lot of information on the brand. I liked the idea of getting a pair of jeans from a brand that was a bit more unique and uncommon compared to the Japanese heavy hitters like Samurai, Momotaro, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@kiya - What is the lightest weight slim denim that SE carries? 34" waist with a 8" hem at most.

 

The Stevenson Overall 727 as reviewed 1 post above yours fits the bill and is a super beautiful jean as it is worn and washed.  It's also what Kiya is wearing now.  I love the subtle details on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@dcs

 

so this is your post-cold soak fit?

 

 

Do you plan to machine wash them at one point?

 

Yeah, that's post cold soak.

 

I'll only do short cold washes/soaks in the future.  Same thing I've done with my SG1109 which are about 1.5yrs old now.  I was recommended to do a 20min cold soak when new and all subsequent washes/soaks have been 10-20min in cold water for my SGs.

Edited by dcs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • :-0

    supertalk is free to browse as a guest. You need to be a member to participate in discussions or buy and sell on the classifieds.

    There is a one-off $US10 joining fee for supertalk.

    You can also become a premium superseller or supermember. Businesses who want to promote their brand and products need to become a supersponsor. superfuture is privately owned and has been online continuously for 21 years. It's a digital cockroach and will survive the apocalypse.  

  • Similar Content

    • By Potsnu
      Worn probably 10-12 times, barely any fades. For those who've been around these forums for a long time, they remember how awesome these jeans were when they first came out.
      Retail was $375 USD. Looking for $185 USD OBO.
      Best way to contact me is [email protected]
      Waist: 31.5"
      Inseam: 31.5"
      Thigh: 11"
      Hem: 7.5"





      One of the most popular jeans we've carried since we opened was the first collaboration we did with Dry Bones and Superfuture two years ago. We've decided to expand on the theme of a forum based jean with a bigger project including Styleforum and a 22oz denim that Dry Bones have woven for this jean. 

      The SEXDBXSXS12 jean has been produced by Dry Bones, one of Japan's longest running vintage Americana style denim manufacturers. The jean is made up of a rope-dyed 22oz unsanforized selvedge denim consisting of a combination of Texas & San Joaquin Valley cotton fibers creating a rigid denim that's slightly hairy, but not slubby, because we requested that the denim not be singed and calendered. The indigo dyed yarn has a sulfur top to create a super dark indigo color that crocks fairly easily with normal wear. The jean has heavy-weight hickory striped pocket bags, military grade green rear pocket linings, coin pocket selvedge, cotton poly-core stitch, hidden rivets, and two leather patches. The Superfuture patch was designed by JimmyC of Superfuture and the Styleforum patch was designed by Brian SD, you can easily remove one of the two patches leaving the one you like better. The fit is a slim fit with with a bit of taper and a medium rise, graded to look great in all sizes.

      Superfuture, a website dedicated to the finer points of shopping, traveling, garments, and more was launched in 1999 by Wayne Berkowitz. Hailing from Australia, the website took on a life of it's own within a few years, and five years in was already home to one of the largest databases of information about garments, and to be more specific, denim.
      Superfuture offers the world a frequently updated set of traveling maps, a listing with reviews of over 1000 shops around the world which are "Superfuture Approved", a blog updated with cutting edge events around the world, and a forum called Supertalk which at times overshadows the other services Superfuture offers.

      Styleforum was founded in 2002 in reaction to the poorly run, corporation-owned, men's style discussion forums of the day. Founder Jeremy Jackson and his partner Fok-Yan Leung, who started posting on the forum as a way to procrastinate from writing his doctoral thesis, see Styleforum as a dive bar populated by guys who also happen to really like clothes, often to the point of obsession. A few discussion rooms have been added to the forum since 2002, discussing anything from travel to food, but these are still guys who want to be wearing the best clothes no matter what they are doing.

      This jean is limited to 250 pairs between our three stores, once sold out there will be no restocks.
    • By WTForce
      HI all,
       
      Im selling a pair of Self Edge x Iron Heart SEXIH22-301S in size 30. The pair was cold soaked when first purchased and worn for about 6 months with one wash. Selling these since my preferences have changed and im not really feeling the heavy denim anymore.
       
      You can read the description of the collab here http://www.selfedge.com/jeans?product_id=1195
       
      The jeans have not been hemmed or altered. Can take more accurate measurements upon request.
       
      Asking for $200 shipped. Accepting reasonable offers.
       
      Tagged Measurements.
      Size: 30
      Waist: 31.5 in
      Inseam: 38 in
      Thigh: 11.3 in
      Knee: 7.7 in
      Leg Opening: 7.2 in
      Rise: 9.4 in
       







    • By Markmont
      Up for snags, Stevenson Overall Co. Tencel Jacket Sz. Large
      $330 Shipped
      Condition is easily 9.5/10
      Feel free to ask any questions
       

       

       

    • By philosAvi
      IRON HEART 633s size 32 - imgur link photos taken by a window with natural light. 
       
      I've been wearing these for close to 2.5 months now. The waist has gotten a bit too big on me and I find that they fade too slowly. They're still more comfortable at 21oz. than most raw denim I've ever worn, though. 
       
      Whiskers are starting to break through, wallet fade is fairly clearly defined on the back left pocket, and while the comb wrinkles are fairly defined, there's almost no evo on the combs, knees, or thighs. These have so much life left in them that your wear will surely overshadow mine in the long run. 
       
      At 36" these are ready to be hemmed to your desires. I have not washed them since purchasing them. 
       
      Measurements (the [iron Heart](http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2835.0) way):  
      Waist: 17.5" across  
      Front Rise: 10.5"  
      Rear Rise: 15.5"  
      Thigh: 12.5"
      Knee (13" down from crotch seam): 8.75"  
      Leg Opening/Hem: 7.6"  
      Inseam: 36"  
       
      Asking **$200 OBO**. 
    • By Megatron1505
      SExDBxS09 original Superfuture collab jeans in a size 36x35, great condition apart from a faded circle on the left thigh where the previous owner rested something. Comes with OG red tab in coin pocket ready to stitch on, rep bar on back pocket and patch designed by our own Jimmy Crow.
      Released in 2008, these jeans are rare as hens teeth.
      Waist 18.5"
      Thigh 13 (measured 2" below crotch seam)
      Front rise 10"
      Back rise 14"
      Inseam 35"
      Leg opening 9"
      Asking £90 plus shipping paid by PayPal, plus 4% or gift.





  • Top 10 Active Viewed Topics

  • Brain Dead Black Gooey T-Shirt
    $US 70

    202266M213022_1.jpgshow?id=gf39VV*YhHg&bids=541884.16245891