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Word of Mouth - Contest Feeler Thread


WoM - Contest duration  

26 members have voted

  1. 1. Which denim should we use?

    • RS1950-ROW
      1
    • RS501-UF
      1

This poll is closed to new votes


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So it seems that i'm a judge :0

Almost as many as the contestants.. If y'all think too many judges will spoil the broth, i don't mind stepping down, i'd never heard of this brand till 10mins ago.

I'll quite enjoy the judging process but i might not be around too often so could i judge this blind? .. ie- avoid the thread entirely and @MJF9 just email a front and back shot of each pair at the end.. i could be completely unbiased?

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We're all good with the size of the judge panel and good to have you on it OO... having such a number of judges voting independently should end up in a balanced and fair result when all added up... well that's the intent     

I took it that your message that you'd quite enjoy judging was a yes... the only thing I never provided (yet) was that golden buzzer... but look you can have a virtual one :)!! 

And yeah for sure you can judge it from the final shots alone... that's what all judges can base their final decisions on, irrespective of how much thread action they've seen (which may be lots or may be little)...

Finishing in around June 2026 is some time off, but we have a plan... what could possibly go wrong??!! 😉

Edited by MJF9
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20 hours ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I'm leaning towards the 311. I'm thinking 38 for myself. It's close to my Denime 220a in 36, which is a fit that I dig a lot.

Ah ok that helps! 

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Hello again 👋

Simone is working on some more detailed description of all the models available for this contest so it will be easier for you guys to decide!

Apart from the customisation listed earlier (e.g. hidden rivets on the 311 optional), there will be no customisation or non-period correct details, e.g. herringbone twill pockets bags on the 5150.

Let's wait and see what he works out!

 

Of course, it's an old-school Sufu contest and the action plays here. However, if you are active on Instagram and want to promote this contest and Simone's work, we suggest the following three hashtags:

#massproductionsucks

#notmadetolast

#sufuwmjcontest

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3 hours ago, ashgiovanni said:

Ah ok that helps! 

I should add that after the expected shrinkage that @beautiful_FrEaK posted, it should fall very close. The 311 should be a little shallower in the rise—front and rear—and slightly larger through the leg than the 220a, but super minimal from my measurements.

 

27 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Of course, it's an old-school Sufu contest and the action plays here...

This reminds me: I assume we can post whenever, and there isn't an EOM window. Since there are only 25 of us and no one is cheating, it seems more fitting that we post when we feel like it. Plus we have 10 judges to crack the whip...

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35 minutes ago, reallypeacedoff said:

This reminds me: I assume we can post whenever, and there isn't an EOM window. Since there are only 25 of us and no one is cheating, it seems more fitting that we post when we feel like it. Plus we have 10 judges to crack the whip...

Definitely! No mandatory monthly check in. Post whenever you feel like doing it (best: daily).

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No, sounds like the WWII will have olive twill and the ‘42 will have lightweight denim. Not sure about the others but I’d guess variations on standard white drill. It’s all been detailed already earlier on in the thread, I’m sure

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Update

Good news... Simone confirmed that Collect have shipped both rolls.

The target plan remains for Simone to have the jeans to us before Christmas for the competition to start.  Note though that’s a target as Simone’s doing this single-handed so we’ll need to be understanding. 

Anyhow, this plan beats my expectations for sure given we only very recently started talking about this so solid progress has been made.  Simone has started on the belt loops already! 

Request please by the deadline of 14th September

Can all contestants finalise the following by DMing it to both @beautiful_FrEaK and me please?

  • Model
  • Waist size
  • Confirm if they want hemming done by Simone
  • If yes, please state your desired inside leg.  Simone will add 8.3cm to your desired leg length to allow for shrinkage.

Any issues with the date, please let me know.

To help you finalise your model selection…

Key points

  • Every SuFu contest jeans will be made with the same denim which is sourced from Collect/Japan Blue.
  • 12oz Loom state selvedge denim made by Shinya on Enshu shuttle loom.
  • Denim is 82,5 cm (32,5 Inches) wide
  • Cotton origin: American
  • Yarn count 7/1 x 7/1
  • Density 62x46
  • Please be aware may jeans are hand-made, hand-folded, sewn on vintage industrial sewing machines. Flawless, imperfections are considered parts of the beauty and character of my jeans. Discrepancies with chart may occur.

Same specs for all jeans:

  • 100% Japanese cotton sewing threads
  • Hand folded seam allowances, no use of iron
  • Sufu custom-designed cow leather patch
  • Sizes available: 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44

311

  • Slim/Reg silhouette
  • mid to high rise
  • 60's rivets
  • No hidden rivets (can be ordered with hidden rivets)
  • Word of Mouth buttons
  • Orange sewing threads
  • Thin belt loops
  • Clean crotch and flys construction
  • Natural cotton twill pocket bags 

411

  • Regular straight silhouette (see pic)
  • High rise
  • Punch through rivets
  • Hidden rivets
  • Word of Mouth buttons
  • Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads)
  • Wide belt loops
  • Clean crotch and flys construction
  • Natural cotton twill pocket bags

411WWII

Same 411 specs except for:

  • Japanese HBT pocket bags
  • Yellow threads
  • Raw crotch and flys construction (see pic)
  • Unfinished pocket facings (see pic)
  • S-wire donut buttons, S-wire laurel leaf belt button
  • No bartacks on back pockets
  • Wonky stitches

611 ('37 inspired model)

  • Regular straight silhouette (wider than 411)
  • High rise
  • Punch through rivets
  • Hidden rivets
  • Crotch rivets
  • Chinch back
  • Reversed yoke construction (see pic)
  • Two tone threads color
  • Wide belt loop
  • Raw Flys and crotch construction
  • Natural cotton twill pocket bags

411S ('42ish inspired model)

  • 611 silhouette
  • Punch through Rivets
  • Hidden rivets
  • Standart yoke construction
  • Crotch Rivet
  • Bartack on back pocket
  • No chinch back
  • Wide beltloop
  • 10 Oz Denim pocket bag (Amoskeag Repro Fabric)
  • Donut and WMJ mix buttons

5150

  • High rise
  • Regular straight silhouette
  • Punch through rivets
  • Hidden rivets
  • Orange stitches
  • Word of Mouth buttons
  • Orange threads (available also with 2 tone threads)
  • Wide belt loops
  • Clean crotch and flys construction
  • Natural cotton twill pocket bags
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All sounds good to me, I'll drop y'all a DM soon once I decide on the sizing.
Definitely will be the 411S model for me, looking forward to it. ^_^
Also interested to see what the patch will look like!

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2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

solid progress has been made.

Agreed! Incredible progress! This has all happened so fast!

Pretty much certain it's the 5150 for me, just need to do some final sizing working out and then will confirm.

image.png.b49708162a042c08aab93e0f96533b1d.png

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1 hour ago, frank said:

Deciding between the 311 and 5150 now... trying to see if I can fit into a size 32 5150 model with my ~31" waist... Or I'd just do a size 33 311... Decisions, decisions

Add a couple of inches to all those measurements and you've got precisely my conundrum.

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So the organizers have kindly allowed me to squeak in as a contestant & consequently I won't be judging.
I'm leaning to the 50s model because of the higher rise.
Still trying to figure out sizing. Simone's advice on going up by 2 sizes vs Tilmann's sample pair stretching back to the raw waist measurement is severely testing my decision making capabilities...

In any case I'm very happy to be a part of this with you all!

 

Edited by CSL
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11 minutes ago, CSL said:


I'm leaning to the 50s model because of the higher rise.
Still trying to figure out sizing. Simone's advice on going up by 2 sizes vs Tilmann's sample pair stretching back to the raw waist measurement is severely testing my decision making capabilities...
 

High rise + sized up 2 + super-stretchy waist = diaper butt

But you do wear some heavy-duty belts so maybe you can keep them in place!

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Do we have shrinkage estimations?
I've seen a couple posts but it would be nice to have somewhat of a consensus (even if we're guessing) on how shrink impacts each measurement. ^_^

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Yeah, I've been looking at B_F's measurements but we're gonna be soaking/washing/drying differently too. I'm planning on machine washing and drying my pair regularly so I doubt the waist would stretch back to the initial size... but then again, it might 😅

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So I got a reply.

2 sizes = 2 inches (as most would tend to do with raw unsanforized.

I was confused. Because I'm 36(ish) I thought S was suggesting going up to 40...

It all makes more sense now.

I dunno. Might still go for 40 😝

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The advice from Simone just now is if you want a size w34 then buy a w36 tho that's based on washing them before wearing... we all know jeans stretch though and shrink again in the wash so the size taken depends on how you want to wear them...

@beautiful_FrEaK has been wearing said denim and posted measurements so could chime in with specific experience again here to help...

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On 9/1/2024 at 7:09 AM, reallypeacedoff said:

Adding the measurements so we can estimate the shrinkage...

                             Pre-wash         1st wash            2nd wash       ~shrinkage w/ wear                                        

Waist:                  36”                    33”                    33.5"              2.5"
Front rise:           12.5”                  11.5”                  11.5"               1"
Back rise:            17”                     15.5”                 15.5"               1.5"
Thighs:                13.5”                  12.5”                 13"                  0.5"
Knee:                   10.25”                9.25”                9.5"                0.75"
Leg opening:       9.25”                 8.75”                 8.75"              0.5"
Inseam:                34”                    31”                    30.75"            3.25"

Posted this before...

Edit DM'd my selection: 311 with hidden rivets, size 38, and 34" inseam (pre-soak/wash).

Edited by reallypeacedoff
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3 hours ago, Broark said:

Do we have shrinkage estimations?

I put this together based on bFs measurements. Shrink % from after wash measurements compared to raw. 

IMG_8451.thumb.jpeg.d6cdf42523fbba71a45c105fb43a6d23.jpeg

Edited by fabes
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