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The Wide Jeans Thread


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Late to the party - and it's all been covered, I think - that said, a few reflections and examples 
Wide evokes a spectrum of considerations for me... that helps keep this denim thing diverse and interesting...
Wide at the hips, thigh, to the knee, below the knee, hem... for some or all of these dimensions?
The rise - front and back - changes the silhouette and how wide hangs and looks
Human dimensions - the same pair of jeans look different on different folk
What waist size - sizing one up or one down results in a different wide look
Hem width to influence where we're hanging these jeans to... ankle-skimming or long and cuffed anyone?  Both can have a place, imo, depending on other dimensions 
Agreeing that wide is in the eye of the beholder - my wide may be the guy-in-the-streets clownishly voluminous
Plus what is wide is transient - my personal view of the wide of yesteryear is the mid-range of today e.g. a 20+ year old pair of Evisu was wide-wide at the time, now much slimmer even allowing for my expansion; TCB 20s is the new slim
A few examples from my jeans / trousers rack... 

  • Canes M-series: M41101 (1930s Lee repro), M41001 (late 40s-ish Levis repro) - wonderfully wide fits
  • tatsunosuke / Woods Mountain: military trousers (denim) - wide all the way
  • At Last: Lot 147 slim-hip, straight wide cut; Lot 162 - more generous rise, wider in the hip, straight down reasonably wide; Military chinos - parallel wide all the way
  • McCoys: N-3 trousers - wide and baggy with long FR and BR
  • Belafonte: Ragtime hi-back trousers FTW! Now these do evoke a range of reaction from the 'what the fvck is he wearing?' swivel-eyed look to 'love your trousers mate, where did you get them?'
  • Tender: 132s - nice and wide legged, though lower rise; fit depends on the waist size you pick.  I could have gone size 3 or 4 or even 5.  Because of the lower rise, I wanted to go belt-less so chose a 3.  On Japanese folk, these are oftent voluminously sized.  Same jeans different look.  Interestingly, imo these look better worn long, heavy denim, heavy cuffed
  • Freewheelers: this is where things blur... 37s are superbly spacious; the WW2s could be deemed straight / slim straight or wide depending on the eye of the beholder. 
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Thought I'd shared my newish TCB 30s I've been playing with as a wider cut. My build lends itself better towards slimmer/straight cuts, but as I creep into middle age it's helpful to try out other silhouettes that put less pressure on the body. This jean has some unique characteristics in its flared hip and diving front rise. When worn with a tucked shirt, it gives a bit of a pinched sausage casing / 90s business casual fit that I don't love. I really enjoy them worn with some intentional casualness, like an oversized knit or untucked BD. I love the sweeping crease that hangs from the side profile when in sync with the shirt (img 4). The key for me is matching the width of the shirt or jacket to the width of the expanded hip to create a more voluminous straight fit from top to bottom with no middle pinch. Some pictures to demonstrate...


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Those look like they fit well!

I hear you on the 90s business casual and some shirts don’t work. Like you wouldn’t tuck a flannel. Unless you have a ranch and cattle.

The key with the tuck is to go for a slimmer fitting upper half, especially in shirts. Not like skin tight but fitted enough to avoid the billowing at the waist. 

The relaxed untucked tee /shirt and wider leg look works nice also with a slightly higher cuff and low top sneakers/shoes. 

Edited by 81FXR
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I see what you mean, I think your fit is very cool on pg 1. For me, wearing a tighter shirt tucked gives a bit of the impression of a cowboy ready to draw pistols. Could be cool on someone, but doesn't suit me. I do love wearing the jean though. Also love to wear them with a big cardigan.

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10 hours ago, 81FXR said:

Really happy with how these 0105 fit post wash. They were a struggle to button yesterday but loosened up nicely. The belt is superfluous here. Not super wide, but a really nice pair of jeans.


@81FXR those look great! The updated cut is a bit wider and higher rise than the older version. It's also very, very stretchy denim so any tightness in the waist will ease up quickly.

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12 hours ago, MJF9 said:

Human dimensions - the same pair of jeans look different on different folk

Felt like MJF9 hit the nail on the head with all his points, but the above hit home for me. I would also add, "Denim history - what have you typically gone for, and what feels wide for you now?" I typically have gone for slim fits but I recently bought a pair of the 10oz Nudie Utility pants and I love them. Hem measures 9.75 inches which is probably an inch and a half bigger than anything else in my wardrobe. So comfortable. Looking to buy some wider cuts now. SC, FC, and Imperial's new 1947 collab are on my radar for next purchase. 



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  • 1 month later...

@Hopethisoneisnttaken The crotch & butt tore through on the M41200 in 4 places just a couple of weeks ago. I’m planning on doing pretty comprehensive repairs (they’ve treated me too well for too long for me to want to just let them die), and will try & post some before and after photos

I’ve also been putting a good amount of climbing wear into a pair of M41057, which are absolute favorites (I still have a dead stock pair that I’m saving for a rainy day, but found a good deal on a second pair in my size that had been hemmed short & very lightly worn and I couldn’t resist), and a pair of M41119 that are midway through repairs right now for holes on the knees

They work great for it 

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  • 1 month later...

Cross-posting from the M-series thread to keep things moving in here…

M41058 old and new (3ish years / 1–2 months)

The color on the old ones is truest in the angled photos (& the one w/ the dogs) where they appear bluer.

These are my favorite jeans, in a lot of ways, and I’m really glad to have found a second pair. The old ones are tagged W33 and were hemmed to 35.5” when raw by S&S Oakland. They didn’t shrink as much as I expected, and they ended up around 1.5” longer than ideal, so I’ve always worn them with a cuff. The new ones are tagged W35 and had already been washed & hemmed to just about my perfect length when I got them, so they’ve been getting worn w/ a nice clean break.

The denim has held up incredibly well—but the constructional stitching has been the opposite, so I’ve had to go over pretty much every seam, at this point. The only other repair I’ve had to do is to there pocket bag where I carry my keys. Overall, even though I don’t think it’s the main thing that draws me to these pants, I’m really happy with how the denim itself has worn. The puckering, the color, and the little bit of vertical falling are all perfect, and it’s super comfortable right from the start.





















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  • 6 months later...

I was going to post these in the TCB thread, but then I remembered this is where I first heard about MOTO. The shoes and braces are from MOTO, and the jeans are Motor New Vintage "old baggy" denim. Many of you know it's based on '90s denim. I had a couple pair of CK jeans in '92. We would get them two sizes up and cinch them with a belt.

These are so great, for me. They take me back, and the plain toe Cordovans remind me of the Timberlands we wore back then. Good times as an undergraduate. Anywho, here are the pants with my growing MOTO collection. 







Edited by super-thermite
pics were RAW
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