Chino pants

[indigoeagle]

I couldn't find a thread on chinos except for one from 2006 in supershoppers, so started this one.

Watched this recently.

They introduce interesting differences in chinos of the different times:

Side pocket shape
Button fly or zipper
Button material- metal or urea
Width of belt loops
Side seams double or not
Watch pocket
Fabric- Chino cloth (LHT) or weapon (West Point/RHT)
Stitching of back pockets (they call it ryotamaguchi or katatamaguchi)
Silhouette

Details start around 12:30

 

Edited February 5, 2023 by indigoeagle

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

That’s pretty interesting. 
i sort of feel like chinos don’t get enough attention, perhaps due to the slow process of fading and aging. Personally I own 3 pairs of chinos (x2 BR and 1 Cushman) and I’m pretty sure they feel neglected as I go for denim 5-6 days a week. 
 

Denim chinos might solve the issue but I’ve always been quite ambivalent about them. I feel like they only look good when new or heavily faded. Wander what’s everybody else’s opinion. 

[indigoeagle]

I agree with you.
I haven't been wearing my chino pants much, somehow most days grabbing jeans to put on.
But it's nice to wear them for a visual change.
And there are interesting details and also a variety of colours: khaki, beige, olive, etc. and different versions of those colours, too. And of course other fabrics besides twill like duck or HBT.

I got some denim chinos, but haven't worn them much either.
Lofgren had offered a pair of sugarcane denim chinos many years ago, pretty wide cut.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

Yes so I recently saw this picture on IG which got me interested in denim chinos. 
 

 

do you still have the lofgren chinos? Interesting to see. 

Edited January 31, 2023 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[shredwin_206]

I have some well faded denim chinos posted in the runabout goods thread 

[Broark]

I enjoy a nicely broken in pair of chinos, Warehouse has a few examples of their 1082's in their aging archive which are subtly nice.
My Freewheelers M-1941 trousers are aging nicely, I wash them regularly and they've started to lose their sheen. I'll have to post some photos of them soon.
Here's a pair of the WH 1082's.
 

[indigoeagle]

2 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

do you still have the lofgren chinos? Interesting to see. 

I sold them.
With a hem of 26.5 cm (10.4 inches) they were too wide for me. Especially then I was more into slim straight. Recently I'm preferring the classic straight cuts again.
There were some cool pictures here on the forum by rnrswitch.
The model I had was called LP-004.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

3 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

I sold them.
With a hem of 26.5 cm (10.4 inches) they were too wide for me. Especially then I was more into slim straight. Recently I'm preferring the classic straight cuts again.
There were some cool pictures here on the forum by rnrswitch.
The model I had was called LP-004.

Sounds like my cup of tea. I’ll look them up. 
 

btw if anyone has recommendations for a wide pair of denim chinos I’d love to look into it. 
 

Also in that regard-how do you define chinos? 

[Toegun]

@Hopethisoneisnttaken Mister Freedom has some good denim chinos 

https://misterfreedom.com/products/sportsman-chino-nos-2-1-denim

sizes by are limited. 

[indigoeagle]

There are a number of 40s chinos with quite a wide hem of around 25cm or more. Mostly khaki Cross or WeaPon twill. By Jelado, Full Count, Cushman, some of the Buzz Rickson ones.
And there are some with medium wide hem of around 23cm. I found the ones from Two Moon quite nice, also the Pherrows M-41.
The ones by Warehouse and Freewheelers look great, too.

Edited January 31, 2023 by indigoeagle

[cheapmuthafukr]

I have a pair of real mccoys chinos I found at goodwill. Very nice, but they never get worn. I preferred the wwii mil chinos I had, but they got sold.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@indigoeagle yes so I have two pairs from BR (khaki and lighter Khaki I guess haha)and one from cushman(s&p chambray). I saw Belafonte has a cool pair of denim chinos, but I’m not sure I’m willing to take the plunge for the price. 
 

@Toegun thanks! Seems like most of everything that MF do with trousers is just too narrow for my taste. 

[unionmade]

Check out Rubato from Sweden. They are much like the 50s cut french legion chinos. Japanese fabric (not selvedge). High rise. 

[shredwin_206]

I really enjoy my runabout denim chinos 

@Hopethisoneisnttaken

 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@shredwin_206 oh wow they look really nice. Where’s the fabric from? 

[shredwin_206]

18 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

@shredwin_206 oh wow they look really nice. Where’s the fabric from? 

My run is old 2x1 cone fabric. I believe the current version is a Japanese fabric. 
great classic fit and takes a long time to fade. 

[indigoeagle]

19 hours ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Sounds like my cup of tea. I’ll look them up. 
 

 

Here is the post by rnrswitch

[peter1]

I personally don't like the way denim chinos fade. That said, I am a huge chino/khaki fan in general. Some of my favorites: Tellason straight fit made from Cramerton cloth (very traditional American trousers, mid rise); Engineered Garments Workday Type 41 (excellent fabric, breaks in nicely, very trad fit); Burgus Plus type 401 (mercerized cotton, tough as nails but break in nicely). If you can find the "original" Bills Khakis in Cramerton cloth -- those were great; had a pair in the late 90s. Sadly the company went down hill soon after. An interesting pair I'm just starting to break in is A Vontade officer pants -- high-count, refined cloth, generous but not sloppy rise, great details like a big flap behind the fly to keep things tidy. I'm also interested in The Quartermaster chinos from Italy but the rise looks daunting...

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I think I'm with you @peter1 - or to be more specific, I like chinos to be non-denim, and on top of that, I am not a fan of 5 pocket pants that are not denim - it's a waste of twill IMO. Why dress down a good fabric like that. So yes, chino cloth or similar for chinos. Seeing something in the trouser cut with denim fades goes into the same category of wearing a sport coat and/or dress shoes with blue jeans for me - essentially that I think there's a line that denim just cannot successfully cross when it comes to levels of formality. At least for me - these are things I never personally feel like I can pull off. 

I've got a pair of Samurai's 15 oz chinos in the wider cut and really like them. They're definitely more on the casual side (but still "nicer" than jeans!) and don't get a lot of wear because I'm still a jeans 28-30 days a month sort of person, but when I can't wear denim they're a top choice. 

Edited February 1, 2023 by AlientoyWorkmachine

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@AlientoyWorkmachine completely agree about the non denim five pocket pants. I really dislike it. 
 

general comment - I think for me the most problematic thing denim chinos is that the mid part of it’s life (not new but not heavily faded) doesn’t look so good, and I think the problem is that’s where most people stop wearing them. 

btw Twerd used to have some type of jeans that were right in the middle between chinos and 5 pockets that were the perfect compromise imo. Too bad he’s off the grid now. 
 

@indigoeagle yes I looked them up. Seems like they would’ve been perfect. But nowhere to be found now. 

[indigoeagle]

@Hopethisoneisnttaken

Perhaps you can get in touch with Speedway. Perhaps they still have some or might reissue.

 

Vontade denim chinos indeed look quite good.

 

There was also one by Warehouse
Burg und Schild still have them.

https://www.burgundschild.com/de/warehouse-co./lot-1082-west-point-chino-denim

 

 

For wider beige ones these look also quite good.

https://baycrews.jp/item/detail/lechoppe/pants/21030053216030?q_sclrcd=027

 

[indigoeagle]

Another one by Old Hands

OH15-12 / OH158-11 FABRIC: #cotton 62% #linen 38%      
indigo

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Speaking of non-jeans - does anyone have any corduroy chinos/trousers they like? I am more often finding myself in situations where jeans won't suit and what I own is a little limited.

I'd love to find some rust or walnut ish colored corduroys, naturally dyed if possible. I know that's a specific ask, will settle for something else. 

[Talan]

 

28 minutes ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Speaking of non-jeans - does anyone have any corduroy chinos/trousers they like? I am more often finding myself in situations where jeans won't suit and what I own is a little limited.

I'd love to find some rust or walnut ish colored corduroys, naturally dyed if possible. I know that's a specific ask, will settle for something else. 

I have Freewheelers Walden. Thick corduroy lovely to the touch, chic wide cut, worn with braces. Pic from McFly:

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

@AlientoyWorkmachine Brut have some beautiful pleated corduroy trousers in these colors. 

[Talan]

Seems like it's time to ponder about a new pair of chinos before the warm spring arrives. Looked at what Japanese online stores are offering, current availability is quite limited. Warehouse 1082 in most sizes are currently out of stock everywhere. 

Has anyone seen any interesting out of Japan options available at the moment? 

What are opinions or actual experience on Joe McCoy MP19010 and Jelado AG61317A, if to select between those two options?

[Double 0 Soul]

These look nice from Dawson

https://www.dawsondenim.com/collections/chinos/products/wide-leg-denim-chinos

[indigoeagle]

2 hours ago, Talan said:

Seems like it's time to ponder about a new pair of chinos before the warm spring arrives. Looked at what Japanese online stores are offering, current availability is quite limited. Warehouse 1082 in most sizes are currently out of stock everywhere. 

Has anyone seen any interesting out of Japan options available at the moment? 

What are opinions or actual experience on Joe McCoy MP19010 and Jelado AG61317A, if to select between those two options?

What hem width and which colour are you thinking about?

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

4 hours ago, Talan said:

Seems like it's time to ponder about a new pair of chinos before the warm spring arrives. Looked at what Japanese online stores are offering, current availability is quite limited. Warehouse 1082 in most sizes are currently out of stock everywhere. 

Has anyone seen any interesting out of Japan options available at the moment? 

What are opinions or actual experience on Joe McCoy MP19010 and Jelado AG61317A, if to select between those two options?

I highly recommend these 

https://www.celluloid1984.com/?pid=162573054

 

Edit: 

I thought I’d take a picture of them and then ended up pulling all chino pairs I have and comparing different details. 
 

top to bottom:

fob factory (for sale for 50$ on grailed)

BR 1942

BR 1945

Cushman

 

Edited February 7, 2023 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[Talan]

55 minutes ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

I highly recommend these 

https://www.celluloid1984.com/?pid=162573054

 

I have no doubt, this Cushman pair should be attractive. But I'm somehow in the mood for a more traditional beige/khaki range... Thank you!