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mpukas

These cutz don't heal

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What is/are your favorite cut(s), regardless of denim, details, construction, etc.? Describe what the cut is, and what you like about it. Intel on functionality is welcome, like how useful are the pockets, range of motion, etc. Measurements and fit pics will be beneficial, too. Use this thread as a knowledge base for those looking to get into raw denim, as well as seasoned denim-heads who may be looking for something different than they already have. There are so many different cuts from different brands, it's difficult to keep up with what's what. 

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Posted (edited)

For me, it prolly starts w/ the Levi's 501. I get that there are many different variations, but even the current STF of-the-rack model is pretty darn good. Maybe not perfect, but I don't think such a thing as The Perfect Cut exists (yet). I generally prefer a medium-rise, straight slight-taper to about 8" hem. I don't regularly wear cuffs and like reasonable stacks, so I don't like the hem to be any wider than about 8.5". 

Roy's cuts are some of the best for their categories. I have the RT1002 - medium-rise, slim tapered, and R01 - high-rise straight. Both are excellent and I can't think of much that I'd suggest as an improvement. 

Iron Heart's 634 is a great cut for me, and I think I prefer it to the 888. I find the 888 has a little too much rise, and the hips are wider than the 634. I'm really tempted by SExIH 633, but most seem to have too small of a hem. 

I think Samurai's S510 doesn't get the attention it deserves. Before my time here, I think it was shunned because it was considered anti-fit, but I don't find that at all. For me it has the right amount of rise, a waist that is slightly smaller than the hips and is appropriate for the rise, and ample thighs. I had one pair tapered slightly, but I'm not sure that it was an improvement over the original silhouette. 

I haven't found a favorite cut yet... there are so many others I'm interested in, so I'm looking forward to seeing what other fella's post about! 

Edited by mpukas

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Great topic. I’m 5’6” and about 160 lbs so  I find straight cuts work best for me — on tapered cuts, there’s too much visual contrast between ankle and waist.

Totally agree on the s510. Just love that fit. I also like the fit on my samurai s0500,  TCB 20s, and Oni 552 NIGR. The Stevenson overall 747 and Iron Heart 634s get a little less wear. I wish they were just a tad bigger in the thigh. 

Honestly the best fitting pair I own are Carhartt double fronts in their original loose fit. The rise is perfect, and they look clean and not at all baggy. 

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I think my current daily jeans (Full Count 1108) probably have the best cut of any jeans I've worn. The only real change I'd make is to make the lower thigh maybe about 0.25" looser, but that's pretty minor.

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Brown Duck and Digger (Warehouse) 60's Ivy fit - best fit for me. They just work great in every place: moderate rises, not slim thighs, gentle taper, usable pockets. Comfortable to wear and look flattering from aside (at least wife likes the look :D). 

2nd place will be OOE 02 I think (they a pretty much similar).

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The three pants I’m wearing now: Freewheelers 1943, Anatomica Utility Pants, and Cushman chinos:

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Although only had them a year, Fullcount 1110 pretty much nail it for me. Rise is high enough to be age appropriate for me, fits slim but perfectly proportioned. 

Shame I discovered them just as FC changed their offerings :mellow:

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Posted (edited)

Came for the thread title, stayed for the discussion!

My favourites have changed enormously over the years (I imagine this is true of almost all of us?), but at the moment I really love:

The Mister Freedom lot 64 cut (extra medium, almost high rise, generous hem for engineer boots), especially in the Okinawa denim and NOS Organic Cotton. The Mister Freedom chinos also deserve honourable mention.

The Real McCoys 004 and Joe McCoys 991XH. Very similar 60s style cuts, great fabric, an extremely comfortable jean.

The Samurai 710 if I want something a bit more contemporary, quite a mid-low rise, slim silhouette.

Following @Iron Horse's example, some fit pics.

Mister Freedom Okinawa lot 64 (with bonus moody little man):

IMG_5113_zpsq5fwqkzg.jpg

Mister Freedom NOS 64:

IMG_5072_zps8cmebtzf.jpg

Mister Freedom Chinos:
IMG_4986_zpsz3xttk7a.jpg

Real McCoys 004:

IMG_4674_zpsh77akvkd.jpg

 

Edited by Aries

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I still go back to my 501s as far as fit and function. I like the high rise with a slight taper, just enough to go over my boots. Also, the fly is my favorite. Idk if it’s just Levi’s wonky QC, but the extra length below the last button really does it for me. My TCB 50s have a five button fly and I get annoyed with the lowest button, like it doesn’t need to be there really. And going with the TCBs, I like the back pocket placement, a little further apart then my standard Levi’s. With back pockets my Norman Porters are my favorite. They’re big enough to hold my bill length wallet without half of it sticking out. The NPs probably have my favorite front pocket material as well. The only thing I’ve never been able to figure on cuts is getting a high enough rise with slim hips and slightly looser thighs. 

 

All that said, I can’t seem to stop wearing my warehouse 900xx even though I sized up to get at least a 10” rise and 7” hem. They’re just really nice and comfortable with the exception of the loose waist, hips and diaper butt I get. 

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  • Luisa via Roma (US)
    Brand - 125 x 125