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INTERN ■ Technical Apparel Research & Projects Administration

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16 hours ago, the-intern said:

do a thing together

would be an honour, I just feel like you have completely different pace, but let's talk it once you are done with this insanity.

bag that I designed with the similar function: it was kinda different because I wanted a backpack with a hidden "apron" you can just flip to front and clip to the sides so you will end up with a like a utility vest in the front and backpack in back. The vest part was supposed to be with PALS rails to expand the capacity of the bag.

your bag: I would prefer if you did not have to do the twist in the air. If you placed pockets on the back they could be nicely hidden and protected from back (theft proof). 

I hope you are doing pants next;)

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Very cool project(s) and loved seeing a dumpster & fence I recognize used as photo location. 

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@danii - Holy moly! Lets definitely talk! :D As for the flip action, my intention is to add a couple small molle pouches that are secured against the back. However.... flipping the straps to the other side like you suggest likely makes more sense. That apron idea sounds really interesting! As for pants... I dunno if I can tackle pants in a day, but I'll give it a shot. Tune in later this week for that.

 

@cb200 - ...are you, maybe, by chance, mr kasuga of deadbird?!?!?! if so my head just exploded.

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@cb200 - forgive the confusion... I heard he lived in east van and your posting history had some interesting deadbird insights!

30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day12 - Longsleeve Shirt


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Okay.. due to popular demand I made an Instragram:  
https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/  
I'm missing something obvious apparently... How the blast do I add photos from my PC? I don't have these photographs on my phone and it looks like I can't add photos outside the app... help?!  

Day 12, and today I elaborated a bit on the pattern from the baselayer top I made yesterday. This time I tech'd out the pattern layout with several textiles mapped to suit different needs on the body. These zones provide durability, breath-ability, comfort, etc patterned to where the body needs it most.  

I used 4 different fabrics this time around. The merino faced mesh from yesterdays top was the base. I then added sections of two variants of a burly and weatherproof Shoeller softshell usually used in mountaineering pants: one is just the shell and the other is backed in a microfleece. To cap it off I added a super lightweight silky nylon mesh around the shoulders.

Check out the gallery and project log at the link below:
http://bit.ly/techwear30day-12-gallery

I'm very happy with the pattern and concept on while, some small amendments on the line across the chest are needed. Also I somehow made the arms a bit to narrow in the forearm on this iteration... I'll have to go back later and amend my patterns. With a more stretchy fabric this would have been a suitable fit, but there's not much flex in the textiles I used on the sleeves, and what little is there is not enough. I'll also go back later and figure out what to do for a collar, or hood for this piece... possibly a 1/4length neck zipper too? 
Because of the tightness in the forearm I'm going to have to call this one unsuccessful... easily fixed, but unsuccessful in this iteration.


Tune in tomorrow for Day 13. I'm going to apply lessons learned in body shape from the shirt projects to a more ergonomic daypack design. 

 

A special thank you to everyone whose followed along this far.  Please do  share you thoughts, criticisms or suggestions for future projects!
-end-

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day13 - Shell Pack


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Day 13 and I took another try at a backpack. This time with the confidence gained from the mostly successful shirt projects I tried to make a pack with some more shape and form to it. For a little added difficulty I kept pattern shape for the main body of the pack all one piece of fabric; reducing failure points and giving a sleek minimalist result.

Check out the gallery and project log below:
http://bit.ly/techwear30day-13-gallery


I'm completely satisfied and tremendously happy with the result. The back panel has a complex geometric shape which hugs the body beautifully while wrapping around the kidney area. I'll go back and reattach the straps at a slightly different angle later though, G guessed the geometry incorrectly by about 15degrees.

I used XPac again for this project, I went back to the cursed neon orange variant I intended the messenger bag to made from back on day 03. I love this fabric, I have the VX21 HS DRW variant and it's my favorite of all the X-pac textiles. For some reason each colour seems to have a slightly different stiffness to it, and the orange version is -imo- ideal.

I got Grambler up and running so I am now able to post to Instagram from my PC, so check out the feed there soon as I'll be preparing photos for that over the next couple evenings... https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/

I'm taking the evening tonight to make some amendments to the longsleeve shirt from yesterday. I'll post that project along with tomorrows attempt at a chest pouch. Tune in then.

Thank you to everyone whose posted or followed along so far! Please keep the input coming, and meanwhile I'll do my very best to tackle the popular suggestions you have given me so-far.
-end-

Edited by the-intern

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the panelling on the shirt is great, i especially enjoy the way the sleeves seem to spiral towards the wrist. there's something about the back panel that seems to pull in the wrong directions, though. not sure if you can notice it while wearing but it looks off. 

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@Inkinsurgent- Thank you for the feedback! There is some volume being created in the back which is accentuated by the merino mesh material in ways I'm no happy with. I was also experimenting with combinations of very light and very heavyweight textiles... with varied success. I did remake the shirt with some super technical lightweight stretch fabric I liberated from the trash of a yoga brand in town... but I need a serger to get better sewing results. My machines are inadequate to handle so much stretch.

 

30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day14 - Goretex Chest Rig 

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Almost 1/2 way and this challenge is starting to take its toll my on my body... the knees are weary and the back has a new funky lean but there's a couple more weeks left in me still!  
 
Today I took a crack at a chest pouch, at la the Alyx bag made infamous by mr Kanye. Personally I think its ABSURD for that pouch to cost what it does, it cant be more than 20 bucks in cost... so I thought I'd take a crack at a more technical variant made from gore-tex, lined with a GOLD softshell, and loaded with fancy buckles and modularity options.  
 
This one nearly took a turn for the worst on me when I was making the final assembly but fortunately I was able to make a quick amendment which saved the project in the final stages. All said and done I feel this one was a success, the function and fit is spot on with lots of modular knick knacks to play around with. I'd swap out the textile to something more hard wearing and form holding in the future however.  
 
Today's fabrics were the same midnight blue Goretex 3layer Pro-Shell I've used in previous days, the liner of this pack is a similar Schoeller softshell material to what I used before - only this ones metallic gold for added swag points. The front stuff pouches are made with a tremendously difficult to sew technical stretch fabric I got from dumpster diving a locally located yoga apparel brand. This ~200gsm nylon elastane tech jersey is an incredible textile... I've apparently been paying attention to yoga pants for all the wrong reasons, they use state of the art textile technologies!  
 
Check out the gallery and project log below:  
http://bit.ly/techwear30day-14-gallery  
 
Thanks for tuning in. Tomorrow I hurdle the 1/2 way point... lets make pants!  
 
I've been preparing photos and my Instagram will be running by end of the weekend! I know there's no pics yet! (I'm a tech lamen with no time to learn right now, please stop messaging me to remind me of that. :S lol)  
https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/  
 
Thanks again to everyone, please share you feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on!  
-end- 

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day15 - Weatherproof Tech Pant Pt1of2

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Alrighty, it's day 15 and I'm 1/2 way through the challenge!!! Today's project is going to come in two parts over two days, today I'll share the pattern and design considerations, and tomorrow I'll make two pairs in very different fabrics to see how it worked out.  

For day 15 I decided to tackle whats likely one of the more complex builds I've ever undertaken - let alone in a single day... Technical, weatherproof, ergonomic pants with a movement focused design and radical geometric patterning. I was weary about trying to make something like this... I have classmates working on projects like todays pants for their final projects in school and will be applying many months to the result. I was spurred to the challenge of making pants by the founder one of my favorite small brands: http://aoku.co, and papa didn't raise a coward so lets dive in! This ones for you Danii!:)  

I was inspired by what has to be the most radical knee design I've ever seen on a pant... the new Dyneema Denim pants from Guerilla Group: https://www.guerrilla-group.co/collections/new-releases/products/18s-es-pd01. I'm in love with the idea of a technical denim, I haven't owned jeans in many years but I want these GG pants very badly. Since I've gone and spent ALL my money on materials and hardware the closest I'm going to get is to make my own spin on the idea.  

Patterning these things took me all day, and well into the morning... as anticipated the idea was too ambitious for a single day. However I'm going to compensate by making two pairs in very different textiles tomorrow. Everything measures out correctly in theory (I don't have a mannequin so its mostly guess work and measuring my own body)... So far I'm overwhelmingly satisfied with the lines and shaping (at least the intent behind it). I cant wait to dive into sewing and share the finished product!  

The gallery today is a little different as I only have patterns and the drafting process to share.  
If you'd like to see what complicated tech pants look like when you unwrap them flat click onwards below: 

http://bit.ly/techwear30day-15-gallery

Tomorrow for day 16 I'll be sharing two pairs of pants. Tune in then! And as always thanks for reading.  

Instagram is on the tarmac awaiting launch shortly:
https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/  

INTRODUCTION OF THE 30-DAY TECHWEAR CHALLENGE FOR NEWCOMERS:
My school and industry mentors have challenged me with the task of trying to create a new product - from scratch - everyday - for 30 days... I'm a second year Student of Fashion Design - studying in the city of Vancouver. Since September I've been interning at a local research and design firm to gain exposure to technical fashion design, construction techniques, and the real-world process behind bringing wild ideas to life...
The studio where I intern is very tight-lipped about their outputs and involvements, however I am allowed to say that they have been quietly responsible for many of the innovations and products seen across the market. My roll is still at the utmost bottom of the ladder (see:gopher), however my mentors are incredibly supportive in including me in and teaching me the in-and-outs of the nuances fashion design.
At the end of this project, I'd like to be able to assemble the 30-day log and the products created into a portfolio which I can use to find a job. I'm still very new to this but it's clear to me that technical apparel and accessories design is where I want to focus my ambitions and career. With any luck this project will be an appealing application for a design position with one of the larger industry players. 


Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on!  
-end- 

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day16 - Weatherproof Tech Pant Pt2of2

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Day 16, and part two of the techwear pant challenge put to me by a user named Danii who is the creator of the awesome accessories brand AOKU. Yesterday I dove in over my head and ended up only just getting the patterns done in time. Today I set forth to make my first pair of pants with any kind of form or shaping... my previous efforts were all shapeless tubes for legs. I have say it... I'm pretty sure I killed it! I'm incredibly proud of these things, everything ended up landing almost exactly where I expected on the body and I learned a hell of a lot about crafting technical garments... eyes opened for more technical garment experiments in the future.

I know I set out to make two pairs today, but the order of operations on these was a real brain teaser so pair two - made from a ACR Stotz style textile - will come tomorrow with a few extra features added. Pair number one was made from the heaviest duty and strongest winter softshell in my small collection, (it's been really cold in Vancouver lately), a Schoeller fabric again, this one most comparable to WB400. Super durable wind proof water-resistant outer face with an ultra comfy fleece backing against body.

The pattern around the knee was inspired by Guerilla Group's new Denim Dyneema hybrid pant the "18S-ES-PD01". I wanted something with a lot of fairly radical geometric gussets which add lots of volume and provide a completely unhindered range of movement. I don't like pants that are very wide around the thigh when looked at straight on so I was careful to build out the volume forwards and backwards... giving two entirely different silhouettes when seen on front/back or from the sides.

It's going to be very hard to wait on taking this idea further while I complete the next couple weeks... I really enjoyed this one so maybe I'll do some more pants later in the challenge also.


Enough descriptions... check out today's results gallery and project log below:

http://bit.ly/techwear30day-16-gallery


Also, Instagram (pics soon, promise):  
https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/

Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on!  
-end-   

 

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day17 - Hybrid Poncho

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Day 17 was a an attempt to fulfill a my most requested item... a Poncho. I don't get the whole Poncho thing, myself... The desire for them is mystery to me on many levels. So to appeal to both the request and my hatred for ponchos I thought I'd see what happens when you mash a jacket and a poncho together... turns out its some kind of unholy bastard step child.

Today's project was not a success but nor was it a total failure. I think this idea has some legs... I just executed it a little awkwardly IMO. In the near future -after the 30-days are up- I'll take this idea further with more shaping and function.

The textiles used today were again the midnight blue Gore-tex 3L Pro seen a few times earlier in previous days challenges. A new entry today is the Polartec competitor for Gore-tex called Neoshell. I'm going to do a full review on waterproof breathables in the next few days but I just want to get it out there now... GORETEX IS A TERRIBLE TEXTILE. It simply doesn't work as you'd want it to in real world use outside a lab-test. And more to the point Gore is a terrible bully who has single handedly held back this whole industry by a decade or more with their trusted partner relationship practice and the leverage it provides them. I personally think the need for breathability in a textile is a total cop out to well patterned garments designed to breath and vent naturally... however if you have to go that road there are literally dozens of superior alternatives to anything made by Gore (except windstopper fleece... that shits pretty dope!). The Polartec Neoshell I'm using today is the lightest weight variety and is my personal favorite light membrane fabric to work with.

Onwards with the hybrid poncho concept... it's an odd thing I made today, with a jacket front and a poncho that emerges from the sides and wraps around the back. There is a 'jacket bottom' all the way around the body, only in place of an actual back portion I've left the whole back open to vent. I really do believe this could be a very cool idea, but this variant needs some work for sure.

View the gallery for today's project below:

http://bit.ly/techwear30day-17-gallery

 

Also, Instagram (pics soon):  
https://www.instagram.com/techwear.intern/

 

Thanks again to everyone, please share your feedback positive or otherwise, or make a suggestion for a days project for me to take on!  
-end-   

Edited by the-intern

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Awesome stuff. Can I ask where you're studying and how you like it there? I'm also in Vancouver.

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@Dango - Thank you very much for taking the time to post. We should connect when the challenge is over if you're in the city! As for my schooling, I'd prefer to keep that out of the public as my class size is small and I don't want to stir anything up. Please feel free to PM me if you'd like to discuss fashion education however. :)

30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day18 - Tech Toques + Pants V2

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Day 18 already... feels like time has gone and picked up it's pace on me lately, the past few weeks have blinked right by me!

So I have a bit of I mixed bag to share today. First of all I got a message yesterday that led to a meeting this morning that kept me away from the studio until about 3PM... however this particular meeting was a local business reaching out to offer me a very exciting contract gig!!! It's been a hell of a day!

Announcements aside, today I had time only for a smaller simple project. I decided to make some techy winter toques from a few different types of softshell... I'm making simple hats today because I cant find any decent softshell winter hats anywhere. If you've seen any please post with the link!

Also I had time to finish up the second pair of geometric techwear pants I began on day 16. This time I user a super stiff almost canvas like technical polester/nylon fabric. This material come to me from Schoeller but is very similar, albeit more stiff, to the Stotz fabric seen on some ACR goods. This material is a technical attempt at creating an organic looking textile, it's nearly indistinguishable from oiled cotton in its appearance, and has memory and shape holding like wax canvas. This was my first time using this material... and I LOVE IT... it's really radical. Lightweight handfeel like a super thin demin, but stiff like carhartt work pants... very wild stuff. You'll definitely see it again in something soon, it would make a beautiful pack.

Take a look at the gallery of the pants and making-of the toques here: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-18-gallery

Thank you to everyone for your messages and 'rep' and posts! The positivity of the response itself has already been an incredible experience so far! You all rock!

Edited by the-intern

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the patterning on those pants is wild. do you have pictures of the patternmaking process?  i can't wrap my head around how you draw something like that in 2d and have it come out as something even remotely resembling pants. 

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I don't know how @the-intern did that but usualy you start with basic pants fit block that you cut into pieces. To speed the process up and make it esier it's better to draw it on mannequin, so you dress the mannequin and draw lines where you want panels and later do darts where you want articulation. They look awesome, great job intern!

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@inkinsurgent + @danii - I shared the patterning for the pants on day 15, you can see the gallery a few posts up. The process went like so: I began by measuring my leg circumference around the ankle and moved up the leg measuring again every 3-4inches. After I had the numbers, I drew a rectangular grid based on a vertical line that started at the foot, through the knee, and up the waist. The measurements were projected off this line to provide me a rough guide of my "skin unwrapped". Once the main silhouette was established, I drew in where I wanted the lines and patterning without any considerations as to how the darts and volume will be created (in this instance I worked out from the knee). Once I had my basic shaping patterns I retraced them and went line by line adding curves, darts and other volume features by considering how I wanted to build out or take-in volume at each seam. After this was complete I went back and measured all the lines to recheck that mating seams are all the same lengths... and c'est tout, all done! As Danii pointed out, you typically use a mannequin, only I don't have one and the ones at my internship apparently cost about $15,000 and I was unable to borrow one for the challenge (nor would such an item fit my limitation of using only my own equipment and things accessible to anyone). Thank you both very much for the interest! If I can provide more detail or if there's specifics you'd like insight on please don't hesitate to post!

 

Edited by the-intern

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Congratulations on the contract. Getting that first gig in creative industries always seems like a catch 22, but once you're cosigned by a brand with paying work on a product you're kind of in. Interesting to hear the comments regarding Goretex, their brand name and marketing has had such a head start that it's a big mountain to tackle for anyone who dares take on the breathable/waterproof  fabric challenge. Don't know if we'll ever see another fabric brand command as much mind or market share in the near future in that category. 

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@cb2000- Thank you for the cheers, this is only a temporary gig to solve a specific challenge, but I'm hopeful it will lead to more in time... if not my inboxes are flooded with requests that could tide me over through the summer I reckon! :D

As for Gore.... my thoughts are multifaceted:

Firstly as a breathable textile it performed better ~5 years ago when the pores were smaller and the textile less breathable. Pursuits towards breathability have lead to a product that no longer stops rain for prolonged periods. What happens now is the surface exterior textile, which is designed to stop abrasion, eventually "wets-out" and essentially blocks all the pores. At this point the textile is no-longer breathable as its pores are all plugged up. Furthermore when once wetting-out occurs your sweat now begins to moisten the interior membrane (or liner fabric if it's a 3layer), and once moistened the pores act as channels for water to work its way in from the outside and the interior is then soaked as well. I've tested this with dozens of top of the line coats in the weather chamber at my internship.

Secondly, Gore as a company is a bully, you have to partner with them and they control your sourcing thereon-out... heaven forbid they find out you were considering an alternative for the next season lest they bring down their might and shut off supply altogether. I wont go on too long a rant here as to the hows and why's but essentially much like the issue with "fake news" the marketing voice in the community from the last 5-8years has been louder than the actual community voice. So when a company pays millions for market research from company X for this seasons numbers they are inadvertently including last years advertising and fakereview hype from company Y... repeat this process for a decade and we have a a real fucking problem. I promise you no consumer has asked for breathability as an essential item before being told to seek it, no one is checking for sub mm seam tolerances (that are pretty but come a heavy strength costs), most of the time taping is just there to hide sloppy sewing, and bonding on about 90% of the stuff I've held can be peeled away with bare hands (I miss mountain gear circa 2009 when my pockets and zippers didnt fall off every season). Goretex is so hypey is blows my mind... some kid stretched some teflon ~20years ago... can we be over it now?

Which takes us to thee and my final point... fuck breathabillity. A properly designed garment can be made from impermeable vinyl if one wanted, if the garment fails to perform this is not a failure of the textile. Its a failure of the designers understanding of the textile - and the bio-system that is a human (which can change moisture/heat outputs >90% in under a min). If one set out with the idea of ignoring the marketing hype forcefed to consumers, and takes to account only factual proven metrics in the chemistry of the textiles in use then one would design the vinyl coat to suit vinyl and incorporate the venting by other means.

*phew, inhale*

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day19 - "Undercoverisnt" Messenger Bag

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Here we are again...19 days straight and we really have to stop running into one another like this, it's getting weird. ;)

Today I took on a messenger bag due to popular demand. I've got more messages than I can count asking me to make an Acronym style messenger... but I'm not doing it. It's an existing product and I have nothing but respect for Errolson. I see a lot of misc. shit talk about ACR. And, I don't even own any acronym myself (am broke!) when I say this: At the end of the day none of us would be here if it weren't for E so I'm not going to tread on his toes. 

So Instead I went back in time to 2009, to what I feel is likely the strongest collection to ever walk a runway: Undercover FW09, specifically the weirdly cool messenger bag from that release. I put together some reference imagery below for those unfamiliar:

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I kept roughly the proportions of the original, only I changed up the construction to create volume along the bottom edge. Otherwise my project today is pretty much a toned-town copy of Jun Takahashi's 2009 design... only I used reflective textiles, modern softshell liner, and a hypalon exterior. I love how this thing turned out, and hopefully me making this my daily carry bag in some way pays honor to Mr Takahashi's brilliance.

This is my concession to the much demanded ACR messenger. I hope you enjoy, check out the gallery below:

http://bit.ly/techwear30day-19-gallery

also... 'cause it's worth a try, I'm just going to put this out there... If you have an Undercover FW09 Earmuff Maniac coat in a size2 in the Red-Knit pattern I'll literally make you anything you want in trade for it!

That wraps day 19. Thank you for everyone again. Please share your feedback and criticisms below!

-end-

 

Edited by the-intern

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Amazing work! Instantly added you on instagram a few days ago. Can't wait to see what else you will come up with and what products will be available for purchase in the future!
Also loved reading your opinion on the materials market trends. On the one hand I like seeing techwear getting more popular as more products emerge, but most of it is simply focusing/imitating techwear aesthetics rather than developing/evolving the function of techwear. In a recent interview in China Errolson Hugh stated that he is eager to see how the technical, convenient aspects of techwear will be implemented in different styles once our beloved urban ninja silhouettes become less popular in the mainstream.

Btw. I LOVE your pants design, especially the version made from that stiff material!!! And it also interests me a lot right now since I was planing on a little personal project myself. I'm not a fashion designer and I have little to no experience in sewing. Following your process I'm realizing all the more how advanced making such custom patterns is. I work as a 3D-artist and I've used the software Marvelous Designer for several months on occasional projects. So instead of using the proper, tradional methods of developing those patterns I'm eager to see if I can manage to come up with something using Marvelous Designer only and then sew it together. Last year I had the opportunity to use a 3D scanner and asked someone to help me scan my lower body. I still have to clean up that 3D scan but once that's done I will try prototyping some pant cuts. No idea how laughable that approach is among fashion designers, but I'd like to try :D

I hope you'll stay active here, both for inspiration and your knowledge!
Can't wait to see the next design.

Edited by gantz

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In theory laminated micro-porous membrane textiles are interesting, but pragmatic arguments can be made against their over prescription for every use. That said, market expectations do exist and breathability is, despite there being little to no consensus / standard to what the term means at the consumer level, an expected feature for a technical hardshell fabrics to be commercially viable.  

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12 hours ago, the-intern said:

also... 'cause it's worth a try, I'm just going to put this out there... If you have an Undercover FW09 Earmuff Maniac coat in a size2 in the Red-Knit pattern I'll literally make you anything you want in trade for it!

To my (and maybe your) dismay, people have been paying 2-2.5k for that jacket lol..

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@gantz - Your 3d process is not far off from the method used by some companies. Personally I think a master of physics simulation and cloth modelling would make an invaluable addition to a fashion design team. Thank you very much for taking the time to post! And no-worries, I'll be sticking around, I like it here. :)

@CB200 - Let us design a future with function over hype... one without breathable fabrics at all!

@danii - bwhaha... of course you're the one to notice that, czech bandit! lmao. As for whats inside... it's a bag of mischief, so... nothing good! :D

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@Nebulae - Unfortunately I know what it's worth, I have a few items from that release i've collected at good deals, but I want to unlock the full set bonus! I've worked on products through my internship with pricetags around and above that mark, and I would have the facilities and assistance of that environment available to me. So if the opportunity presented itself I'm confident I could produce something completely bespoke at a quality level that would make it a fair trade.

 

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day20 - 10-Days In Review Part 2

It's presently 4:47am... and I've spent the whole day today putting together lighting and a makeshift photo studio in my little sewing shop, taking photos with a couple friends, and editing... so much editing. With all the attention this project has been getting I thought I'd step up my photographs to pay respect to all the wonderful people who've supported my progress these last 20-days.

Todays post is a photo gallery only, no captions. I'm going to let the photos do the talking this time:

check out the full gallery here: http://bit.ly/techwear30day-reviewpt2-gallery

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I struggle for words to express my overwhelming sense of gratitude towards everyone whose been following this 30-day challenge so far. I never would have made it this far without the community to pull me along! Thank you everyone!

10-more days to go until I'm in clear! Tune in tomorrow for day 21! :)

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@danii - thanks dooder... the spirit is willing but the body grows weary... :S

30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day21 - Lunarcore Anorak

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Only about a week to go now on the 30-day clock! For day 21 I took on my first ever attempt at making my own coat from zero. So in order to keep within the daily time limit, I chose a silhouette typically more simple and easily manufactured, due to its military history: an Anorak.

My Lunarcore Anorak is made from an enjoyably stiff VX21 xpac in a stunning white colour. In order to have a garment that's wearable and functional I opted for a lightweight Schoeller softshell back and hood collar, with some super stretchy armpit gussets for both added breath ability and unrestricted movement. The X-Pac front and arms are quite stiff, it began as more of an experiment in applying xpac to garment construction... however the wearability surprised me, it's actually quite comfortable and I plan on getting good use out of it (I'm wearing it right now even).

The stomach area features a very large double waterproof-zipper access kangaroo pocket. There's an added stuff pouch along the top with velcro secured flap for small items like a phone or notepad... And because at heart I'm a big kid I put a little patch of Jerry the mouse from the cartoon "Tom and Jerry" inside the stuff pouch, he waves hello when you open the pocket... and keeps Tom from messing with my Tinder page when I'm not paying attention. lol.

View the Gallery and project log here

There are a few small changes and additions I hope to add to this item in the near future, but I'm calling this one a success. Overall I'm very happy with the result!

I keep saying it... but the response keeps snowballing on me THANK YOU TO EVERYONE reading these daily posts. Please don't hesitate to share your feedback, suggestions, or criticisms!

That's a wrap on day 21.

-end-

 

 

 

 

Edited by the-intern

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30-day DIY Techwear Design Challenge - Day22 - RainSleeves Collab w/ BrotherJopa

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Day 22 and things were a little different for me and the challenge... Today was my fist collaboration project; with an INCREDIBLE Vancouver based traditional typographer. Instagram's @BrotherJopa and I connected recently and have come together today to work on some lettering. Also I sent Jopa home with a section of fabric which he is going to paint!!! Covering every inch with his beautiful hand painted lettering... I'm so freaking excited to make something from his art my head is going to explode! Jopa and I got along together right off the bat, he may be even more obsessed with lettering than I am sewing... the mans commitment to his craft was utterly humbling, i bet he sleeps with a pen in his hand the madman! Check out his amazing work on his instagram here.

Today I decided to try and make use of the zipper I added to the shoulder-rig's collar seam back on day 06. The idea this morning was to make some jacket sleeves... no jacket just some modular rain sleeves that attach to the shoulder rig. The result was an odd item, a sort of half-coat which leaves the lower half of the body exposed. The results in themselves today are a bit weird... but the process I think was very unique as this item was made from 1 single pattern piece! Both sleeves and the upper coat are all cut and sewn from one piece of fabric which is carefully darted and sewn so that it wraps around the body to create a jacket shape.

Check out todays gallery and project log here

I'm very exited by the idea of making things from a single block of fabric. I feel some of my most interesting experiments in this challenge have been born from the idea of using fully a single rectangle of fabric without waste... but now I'm wondering what could be done if we eliminate the idea of sewing multiple sections of fabric together... and instead approach the design a bit more like oragami. With just 1 component, seams can be reduced, along with them failure points and places for water to get in... ultimately very lightweight objects could be made.

This was a very fun day! Having some company in the studio and stumbling on a new idea to explore was a well needed recharge in the final leg of this challenge.

Tune in again tomorrow for day 22... I'm definitely going to play with this 1pc idea some more!

Edited by the-intern

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Wicked cool project. I really can't believe your cadence. 

My real question is, where do you get these fabrics from?I'd love to get my hands on some GTX, Schoeller or even Neoshell

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