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The Pocket Thread


mikecch

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Coin pocket depth. The Evisu's win by a mile at 11.4 cm, I can't even reach the bottom of them with my fingers.

 

 

Warehouse 660-7.7 cm

46OZf14.jpg

 

Samurai 0500-5.2 cm

w7EB8Nz.jpg

 

Skull 5507-6.9 cm

hBN7p0V.jpg

 

Evisu 2000-11.4 cm

ULcqbkE.jpg

 

Denime 66-7.5 cm

7gdblGQ.jpg

 

BiG N-02-7.5 cm

jZgDw7Q.jpg

 

UES 400R-6.6 cm

cWwk5HZ.jpg

 

Denime WWII-6.9 cm

n3vogj5.jpg

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I own a gazillion pairs of jeans, manufactured by everyone from Aardvark Apparel to ZZ Top Shop and the best pockets IMHO are made by yer man above.

Great posts spunkey, bravo!

Edited by Maynard Friedman
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I don't like when jeans dudes cut the front pocket facing to short, I know it's vintage thing, but damn that poking out pocketing thing is annoying as hell.

Agree! Totally un-professional in my eyes...

I noticed that on bigger sizes of Strike Gold's - appears to be "lazy" grading: the leg panels are graded and the pocket entry grows, but the pocket bag and denim packet facing and coin pocket stays constant.

Some companies don't grade every size - the difference between 2 sizes (like a W32 and W33) is a different side seam allowance. Effective and cheap...

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Here are examples for the 3 different front pocket entry construction:

Plain, Clean & Simple

IMG_3252_zpsjlzgv7xb.jpg

Denim front panel and pocket bag fabric joined and top stitched - certain brands have specific ways to trim the seam allowance and, occasionally, internal seam tape is used to further support the pocket entry.

Taped

IMG_3253_zpsfoyffojr.jpg

An additional operation sees a separate tape backing the top stitching. Most commonly, the tape is cut from the same fabric as the pocket fabric - cut on the bias in order to Smoothly follow a curved pocket entry.

And, lastly:

Pocket Entry Facing

IMG_3254_zpsrzqbrexz.jpg

A separate pattern panel needs to be cut from denim, joined to the front pant panel and top stitched. The pocket bag is joined to the facing.

This probably buys quite some time when wearing through the pocket entry...

It is certainly more material and labor intensive compared to the above solutions.

Also, I might be throwing up some pictures of different pocket bag fabrics from my collection...

Edited by Foxy2
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Okinawas have my favourite pockets, followed by Hawaiis. Apart from anything else, they're more durable than others for me -- I wore Okis and Samurai sv5000x equally over two years, and the Oki bags are still good as new while the Sams blew out after 15 months.

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here are the Mister Freedom limited edition ones...Okiniwa edition...

IMG_3263_zps4suotuau.jpg
IMG_3264_zps6xi6f4sd.jpg
IMG_3265_zpsihvsdfl2.jpg

Uncle Sam edition...

IMG_3266_zpsfscdyqf3.jpg
IMG_3268_zpslr96geet.jpg
IMG_3269_zpsxgxbxk8f.jpg
IMG_3270_zpslngwuwps.jpg

...left and right pocket bags are using the reverse fabric side.

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here are some non-standard pocket bags from SDA...

IMG_3279_zpsqsmrtezx.jpg

the X's-36 and D1673 came with a thick jaquard pocket bag fabric...

IMG_3280_zpspdaw231p.jpg

IMG_3281_zpskyeakgf8.jpg

IMG_3282_zpsxvf67ge4.jpg

EA9B1326-E171-4B70-A545-404DA2835B08_zps

the D1538XX-B came in printed camouflage and with taping of the pocket entry...

09C5348E-2383-480B-B013-37146143609F_zps

4A85DCF3-5A88-4045-B94A-D16CAAD47E64_zps

6106A5E1-0B04-4A80-AE86-9D9D5231D22A_zps

D73A1C6F-85DF-4783-944E-10C65ADA85B6_zps

...they are printed on both fabric sides.

EF9F7A41-7A37-45C5-BA3B-F9D249B11A45_zps

Edited by Foxy2
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Nice photo drop Foxy!

I'll try and get around to my favorites, one of them being Roy because of how substantial the fabric is.

Also like the Ooe pocket bags, very easy access too which is a nice change.

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