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5 hours ago, ShootThePier said:

Heavy weight, Earth tone? I just might make my first Tanuki purchase.

i’ll keep my ears open.

LOL, the earth tone jacket just got stocked at Blue Owl a couple of days ago and is now sold out... I'm hoping to review the jeans later this year. 

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“Hello there, sorry for late reply. Grey cast and red cast are very different. In denim industry, grey cast is most of the time a method of changing the color of denim with the use of chemicals and enzymes in the wash stage. It is done because it makes jeans look vintage worn. It is popular but not so popular in traditional Japan denim because people prefer no use of chemicals in wash. Some people call grey cast other things, like using weft that is grey in color with a loose weave warp on top

To show a bit the grey, but that is not what denim manufacturers would consider grey cast and what you see more often being popular

 

Our red cast is completely different because it is set in the indigo, dyeing process, so jean is not altered with chemicals in wash to make it look a certain way. The Ph balance of the indigo we use reacts with environment and oxidizes giving a bit of red feel. We combine this with a beige with slight red tint weft so when it fades gives more vintage feel

 

Deep indigo denim is not considered cast. It is simply indigo warp and weft which makes them look very deep color blue. Some manufacturers dip the yarn one or twice more to make darker. Cannot dip too many times (some brands claim that, but is only marketing because too much indigo will make sticky texture for denim... many in the Tanuki team have tried it).

You are right. For the repro jeans in general they are straight forward production techniques. They are not grey cast as manufacturer would see it, but when worn produce that same grey cast feel because that is exactly the type of effect that grey cast wash is trying to achieve. So it is more the other way around. Maybe some brands market them like that because grey cast is more popularized so easier to understand. Most brands are not manufacturers of fabrics but are expert in marketing. “

Some information I received from Tanuki which you all might find interesting when I asked them what’s the real definition of grey cast.

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Terrific review Mike. I've never really paid much attention to Tanuki and I've got more than enough jeans to keep my legs happy for the next few years, but I'd definitely consider them for a future purchase if one of the fits looked right for me. Much like with Oni, the pseudo-mysterious branding rubs me the wrong way, but it's clearly a nice product.

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Thanks Kyle. 

True, I think their initial marketing campaign perhaps wasn't very in tune with the hobbyist community. I feel that's largely irrelevant now, two year on, given the release of some - IMO - outstanding products. 

In some ways they are one of the most responsive brands. For example, they've actively incorporated feedback from the community and retailers in the cuts and details of their jeans. Despite the air of mystery, they're actually super approachable. 

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Cheers @lance!

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On 9/2/2016 at 4:30 AM, mikecch said:

...anybody with impressions or photos please share~

I picked up a pair of RAW Oni x Tanuki OTHT 21.5oz organic indigo shortly after they dropped late summer/early fall 2018. As stated in an earlier post, I tried on some Tanuiki Earth Denim High Taper a Canoe Club in boulder, and was rather intrigued. There was a ton of hype around this collab and they sold out quick everywhere that had them. Overall, they're very nice jeans. I generally concur w/ @mikecch's reviews of Tanuki that's he's done on his blog. Construction and details are solid. For this type of cut, it's well executed. The denim is indeed unique and has TONS of character. I really like their buttons! 

Given all that, I'm not really into them much. The rise is too high and the taper too aggressive for my taste. Moving them, if there's anyone interested hit me up... 

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^ If you don't get bites here, you might try over on reddit. Folks there go apeshit over these collabs.

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@mpukas Sorry to hear they don't work for you! Happy hunting on the next pair.

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I really wanted to love them, but I cant quite put my finger on why I dont. I do think if I washed and hemmed them, they'd fit and look really good. The denim is certainly unique and interesting, and I've always wanted a pair of Oni's secret denim, just to see it. But @cander49's experience with Oni certainly turned me off. Maybe it's the whole package doesnt suit my taste/style. Dunno... :wacko: 

I do think their whole initial marketing campaign was arrogant and in bad taste. That and the general consensus around here has certainly swayed my opinion. But so have @mikecch's reviews. 

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If you like the fit, the fabrics nice and the construction is solid, don't sell them! 

I know the whole marketing ploy turned us all off initially but if they are now putting out quality, ethically made jeans then why not.?

Did we ever find out who is actually behind the brand?

 

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Reminded me I have a pair of Oni 527zr... while the fit isn't for me these days, I still love the uniqueness of their secret denim... heavy yet super comfy with a kind of green tinge iirc... top denim... styles change so they're a keeper for some day maybe...

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Just bought a pair of NSXT "SEN" 16.5oz Stretch Selvedge - Extreme Tapered Fit from Blue Owl.  Loving the taper (it's pretty intense - if it was any skinnier, I wouldn't be able to get my feet through).  Loving the hairiness.  The slub is moderate - not the slubbiest of denims, but not uniform, either.  I will say, however, that these things are not "easy" to fade.  Normally I start seeing some pocket fades by the first week (e.g. Samurai, Momotaro, IH), but these just won't bleed blue!  I guess the one-wash really got the indigo to adhere well.  Anyone else experiencing this?

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On 4/25/2019 at 2:02 AM, tdj said:

Just bought a pair of NSXT "SEN" 16.5oz Stretch Selvedge - Extreme Tapered Fit from Blue Owl.  Loving the taper (it's pretty intense - if it was any skinnier, I wouldn't be able to get my feet through).  Loving the hairiness.  The slub is moderate - not the slubbiest of denims, but not uniform, either.  I will say, however, that these things are not "easy" to fade.  Normally I start seeing some pocket fades by the first week (e.g. Samurai, Momotaro, IH), but these just won't bleed blue!  I guess the one-wash really got the indigo to adhere well.  Anyone else experiencing this?

I've been wearing a pair of Tanuki's red cast jeans for just a little over a year now. I bought mine raw, but crocking/blue hands was always pretty minimal -- I wouldn't call them fast faders.

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While we're on the topic of the Red Cast denim, here's a couple of recent photos of mine. They don't get much use now as I'm fading something else, plus my thighs have gotten a bit big for them while they still fit properly everywhere else. They still hold a special place on my rack, and the fabric is a thing to behold. They've had slightly over 6 months of effective use and probably 6 machine washes in that time, creating a rather low contrast fade. They are still holding up very well in just about every spot apart from the bottom of the cuffs and a loose thread on one of the back pockets.

Some folk have had issues with their pocket bags blowing out, but not in my case.

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Just look at that texture.

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Yh8fAD9.jpg

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The new oni shirt up top?

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Yes it is! 

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the KDT is awesome. is anyone stocking that in the US?

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On 1/17/2019 at 10:19 AM, Geeman said:

If you like the fit, the fabrics nice and the construction is solid, don't sell them! 

I know the whole marketing ploy turned us all off initially but if they are now putting out quality, ethically made jeans then why not.?

Did we ever find out who is actually behind the brand?

 

Sorry if this has been answered; Jay from blue owl told me it’s Oni. Totally makes since given all the secret master stuff etc, and the collabs. 

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22 minutes ago, SuperJackle said:

Sorry if this has been answered; Jay from blue owl told me it’s Oni. Totally makes since given all the secret master stuff etc, and the collabs. 

Also makes sense because the Oni and Tanuki denim has extreme tapers to their fits.

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1 hour ago, UkeNo said:

I hate this.

+1 

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4 hours ago, UkeNo said:
4 hours ago, UkeNo said:

I hate this.

 

Awful. 

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37 minutes ago, Geeman said:

Awful. 

Someone is going to order these online and not be able to fit their feet through the hem. It’s happened a few times over on the raw denim reddit when people taper their jeans so much they don’t account for their feet getting in the jeans. 

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That’s what zips were invented for :D

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The taper on those Tanuki's is so extreme they almost look like denim sweatpants. Absolutely fugly

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