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Conners Sewing Factory


Flash

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On 3/11/2019 at 3:49 PM, mpukas said:

What's up with the threads on the cut edge poking through the seam? Is that intentional and part of his precise, exquisite reproduction of flawed construction? 

I don't think the threads are purposely put there, but I do think they are deliberately not removed if that makes sense. I actually love it.

 

Great fit on those @Flash !!

Edited by dudewuttheheck
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I'll never fully understand the repro appreciation thing. With a repro brand that has a cult following like CSF, loose threads and wonky stitching are viewed as appealing, even desirable. On any other top end non-repro brand - like IH, TFH, Samurai, SDA, etc. - loose threads like that would be considered inferior craftsmanship and QC, and they'd be cursed from here to hell and back again. 

I appreciate CSF and would like to get a pair of his jeans, but because they are great jeans and denim. 

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On the one hand, I think that given the old machines and processes used, we should give some leeway to these kinds of brands for things like loose threads, variable stitch spacing, etc. It kind of comes with the territory, so I don't freak out when I see something less than perfect on a pair of my Flat Heads or whatever. But on the other, it does seem a little weird when certain "mistakes" are done on purpose. I think Japan in particular has everything necessary to exceed vintage Levis in basically every way possible, so it seems a bit constraining to limit yourself to making repros.

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2 hours ago, mpukas said:

I'll never fully understand the repro appreciation thing. With a repro brand that has a cult following like CSF, loose threads and wonky stitching are viewed as appealing, even desirable. On any other top end non-repro brand - like IH, TFH, Samurai, SDA, etc. - loose threads like that would be considered inferior craftsmanship and QC, and they'd be cursed from here to hell and back again. 

I appreciate CSF and would like to get a pair of his jeans, but because they are great jeans and denim. 

I’m not having a dig at you because everyone is entitled to their opinion but your post is a little confusing , you seem to question the quality in the first paragraph then in the next say there great jeans and want a pair ? The “quality” argument isn’t even all that important to me when talking about repros , there is plenty of “better made” jeans with out there with higher stitch counts and lazer straight lines but that’s not how Levi’s we’re made 

As far as appreciating repros goes ..... I love vintage , if I could afford it I wouldn’t even entertain the idea of buying repros but until that long lost relative leaves there millions to me in there will I’ll have to make do with the next best thing , in my opinion that is Conners 

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39 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

On the one hand, I think that given the old machines and processes used, we should give some leeway to these kinds of brands for things like loose threads, variable stitch spacing, etc. It kind of comes with the territory, so I don't freak out when I see something less than perfect on a pair of my Flat Heads or whatever. But on the other, it does seem a little weird when certain "mistakes" are done on purpose. I think Japan in particular has everything necessary to exceed vintage Levis in basically every way possible, so it seems a bit constraining to limit yourself to making repros.

Different strokes for different folks ? 

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Quick question regarding ordering and communicating with CSF.  I paid for my first pair (1947, size 38) on February 11th and haven't heard a peep.  I assume this is normal, given that Konaka is essentially a one-man shop and busy making jeans.  For this who've been through this process, was it your experience to wait a bit, with no word for a while?

Also Flash, would love to hear more about what you (or other) find unique or special about Conners.

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7 hours ago, mpukas said:

I'll never fully understand the repro appreciation thing. With a repro brand that has a cult following like CSF, loose threads and wonky stitching are viewed as appealing, even desirable. On any other top end non-repro brand - like IH, TFH, Samurai, SDA, etc. - loose threads like that would be considered inferior craftsmanship and QC, and they'd be cursed from here to hell and back again. 

I appreciate CSF and would like to get a pair of his jeans, but because they are great jeans and denim. 

You don't have to understand it or like it. Everyone has their own ideal.

Brands like SDA and the like are making idealized iterations of vintage jeans, taking inspiration and want to make perfect jeans. Therefore I expect "perfect" sewing.

With CSF it's different: he tries to make the perfect reproduction of actual vintage Levi's jeans. So if you would own a deadstock pair of Levi's 501XX from 1943 and this pair has all this failures, wonky stitching and loose threads and you want to make a copy, what would you do? Konaka-san has examined a lot of real vintage jeans, saw these failures and adopted them for his jeans. And if you are like Flash or myself and a real deadstock pair is out of reach, CSF is the second best option.

Although I admit, the price is steep.

 

Edit: @JohnM hey mate, I still owe you a mail! It's a bit odd. You waited over a month, it's ok to write him again and ask about a time frame. He surely busy with the new 1942 model though but he still answers on IG.

Edited by beautiful_FrEaK
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^ Thanks b_F -- I may be too old for Instagram, but did message him there ;-)

This discussion of Levi's jeans of the past (and their unique characteristics) is interesting to me since I used to buy them when I was a kid in the 60s -- or my mom used to buy them for me.  They were thick, flat, and stiff, shrank a lot, and had a sort of odd, baggy, straight, non-contoured fit.  They weren't necessarily cool at the time (or 'Boss'!) but they were interesting and different, since you had to soak them.  I sometimes think of Roy Slaper's comment (or a messed up paraphrase of something he may have said) that jeans are an ill-fitting garment.  That's pretty much how the 501 felt to me at the time.

And now we're trying to build in these characteristics from decades ago.  Reminds me of when I took my Dad (now long gone) to a nice B&B in northern California for his 80th birthday.  After taking one look at the inside, he said, "Thanks very much for arranging this for my birthday.  I'm sure we'll have a great time.  But, just so you know, I grew up with bathtubs with legs and hardwood floors.  Now I like wall-to-wall carpeting and air conditioning."

Edited by JohnM
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I can completely understand the confusion at Conner's. My obsession with them is even weirder as I wasn't hardcore into vintage Levi's before discovering the brand. 

Even more strangely- I am absolutely obsessed with stitch count and finishing details on my leather jackets and boots. However, jeans are a completely different animal for me. While all of these items mentioned age, boots and leather jackets can and do last more than a single lifetime. That permanence makes the perfect construction something that can last longer and be appreciated for a longer time in my eyes.

With jeans, they fall apart sooner rather than later. It doesn't matter how well they are made and how perfectly they are finished- they will become unwearable within your own lifetime unless you don't wear them enough. That is one reason that I can get into the imperfections of CSF. Another reason for me is that I have never seen a perfectly stitched pair of jeans. I have owned 4 Roy items, a pair of Ooes, several RJBs, etc, etc. Every single one of them had or has some sort of aesthetic construction flaw. On the other hand, I have handled and in fact own a perfectly made and finished pair of boots and a leather jacket that is about as close to perfection as possible. I am not trying to discount the incredible skill that people like Roy, Hiro Ooe, Ben Viapiana, etc have. This is just my personal view and what makes sense in my head.

Most importantly, none of those other jeans appeal to me anymore. I felt a connection with Conner's Sewing Factory jeans that has actually caused me to get more into vintage than I was before, especially in terms of jeans. I also understand the niche within a niche within a niche within a niche that CSF is. I will stand from my soapbox and proclaim the objective quality of Freewheelers leather jackets and especially White Kloud boots, but I don't do that with Conner's because I understand that it doesn't compare in the same way.Honestly, I can't even express exactly why I adore the brand so much. Even after all this rambling, I could type thousands more words and still not fully explain it. I can if people wish, but I doubt it. What I can say is that I have never loved a pair of jeans half as much as I love my CSF jeans. 

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19 hours ago, Flash said:

I’m not having a dig at you because everyone is entitled to their opinion but your post is a little confusing...

 

13 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Brands like SDA and the like are making idealized iterations of vintage jeans, taking inspiration and want to make perfect jeans. Therefore I expect "perfect" sewing.

Thx for the replies fellas (you can take a dig at me, it's all good, LOL! :P). I knew I might ruffle a few feathers. I meant no offense and I'm not criticizing anyone's taste or choices. Although I'm not into the repro replica scene, I do love vintage/heritage designs and modern interpretations/inspirations of them. i.e. prolly more than jeans, I LOVE all iterations of vintage/heritage denim jackets - I, II, II 101, chore coats, etc. I'm planning on getting a new warm denim jacket for next winter, and it'll prolly be the MiJ Lee Storm Rider... I follow you guys because you know what's what, and if you like something then there's prolly something appealing for me as well. Personally I appreciate CDF not because he makes repros but because he makes great jeans.

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I think CSF could probably use any old shrink to fit selvedge denim and some folk would still continue to buy it without giving it a consideration. People seem to be into the period correct details, machines and construction methods and the quirkiness of the ‘deliberate mistakes’ aspects to an extent that the denim itself seems like a secondary consideration.

I also think some may like the exclusivity that low output, a high price, a waiting time and internet kudos brings. Of course, I’m being a little cynical here :P

For balance, I also understand and completely accept that there are some serious denim peeps such as flash, Dr Heech, 00 Soul, etc that love these jeans for that authentic Levi’s vibe and I have a lot of respect for them and value their opinions.

Edited by Maynard Friedman
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I’ve kind of hopped off the CSF train a little, at least in regards to the jeans because the front pockets are pretty much completely unusable. After wearing my Roy jeans for the last six months or so it makes me realize how nice having usable pockets actually is. I can still appreciate his work and I do want a type I at some point down the line, but that’s it most likely. 

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  • 1 month later...

 

20 hours ago, Flash said:

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Is this another example of precise, meticulous reproduction of flawed, shoddy construction? 

I'm just teasing in good nature. Of course you can dig at me, but I'm not trying to be a jerk. But seriously, is that seam supposed to be like that? Why? 

The jeans look awesome - I especially like the vertical fading, rice-grainy texture and mix of high- and low-contrast. 

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My guess, based on no evidence or specific knowledge (other than owning a bunch of 501s in the 60s and 70s), is that these mistakes were unintentional by Levi's but intended by CSF.

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