Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bill

Jil Sander mens F/W 16 - Milan

Recommended Posts

Decoding the Military Precision of Jil Sander
 
 
 

351226.jpg

 

— January 19, 2016 —
Ellie Grace Cumming reveals the references behind the A/W16 menswear collection

 

Text Olivia Singer
Photography Martina Ferrara

 

Jil Sander is a house renowned for austerity, for its stoic dedication to exacting minimalism and a spirit that verges on the brusque. During the noughties, Raf Simons' tenure at the house saw it err slightly (and wonderfully) towards his own, subversive Belgian romance but, since it came back under Sanders' own hand in 2012 – and now, that of her successor Rodolfo Paglialunga â€“ the brand has determinedly returned to its Germanic origins. This season, Paglialunga chose to investigate a history of military dress, from medieval leatherwork simultaneously sinister and sexy, to jumpers with the bomber sleeves of 1930s aviation. It was a modern reworking of pieces designed to protect – a theme that we saw explored, albeit in a different spirit – at Craig Green, and one certainly analogous to Mrs Prada's feeling "deeply serious and deeply human and trying to understand mankind’s difficulties" in her A/W16 collection. The world is currently undergoing a particularly confused period and, as Alexander Fury noted in his Prada show review, "it’s foolish to think fashion exists in an isolated cocoon, or an ivory tower." Jil Sander's offering showed just how true that is.

 

 

"Clothes have become so extravagant in the last few seasons," explained Another Man's fashion director Ellie Grace Cumming, who styled the show. "We were looking to create a wardrobe of clean, modern, Jil Sander staples for a man to wear, but also to be protected in, reflecting the uncertain climate not only in fashion but also in the larger world." And, whether it was the cross-body straps that echoed bandoliers, the silhouette of a 1940s police coat transformed into a khaki cape, the black leather coats that looked something like a doctor's uniform turned terrifying or the combination of it all, that sense of security was brilliantly present. "Jil Sander has such clear codes that it can almost become a uniform – and I suppose that's why we looked at military, as a way of exploring that feeling," continued Cumming – but not only was there a distinct atmosphere of militia, but equally there was sex. 

 

 

Frederic Sanchez' imposing soundtrack of Coil, Broken English Club and Ministry was evocative of an industrial 80s nightclub – and the flushed young boys, fresh-faced and innocent with slightly tousled hair and pouting pink mouths were exactly the type one would hope to find there. Supple leather trousers were nothing if not S&M; the safety-pins adorning scarves similarly so. The tactility of the fabrics – the 80s Japanese tailoring nylon bonded to shiny, shiny leather, the plasticky pouffes that formed jumper sleeves, the jacquards printed with blown-up maps of an urban city – was breathtakingly desirable. It was a battalion of beautiful boys wearing the uniform of a modern man; as Cummings succinctly surmised, it was "the army within the city that you live in." 

351225.jpg
351227.jpg
 
 
351230.jpg
351231.jpg
351232.jpg
351233.jpg
351235.jpg
351236.jpg
351237.jpg
 
 
www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8220/decoding-the-military-precision-of-jil-sander

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

fyi the jumpsuits and ma1 trousers were purchased by the jil stores (like everything else, minus the pvc)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this kind of looks like giuliano fujiwara circa 2009-2011 before that brand fell off the map

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do they want to make clean modern staples or do they want to make ma-1 trousers? it's kind of either or.

That's what happens when you decide to mix what would be your pre-collection ad your main runway one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Luisa via Roma (US)
    Brand - 125 x 125